Trying to find the most efficient mash tun

I'm looking to start an all grain beer and need to make a mash tun. I have looked up a lot of different ways and types to make one and I wanted to see what was the most effective. Should I use a round or rectangular cooler? Use a false bottom or use the copper tubing with slits? Or both? What the best size cooler for brewing 5 gallons at a time. Any tips would be greatly apprreciated. Also I probably missed a few things so any comments and tips you used while making your mash tun would be greatly appreciated.

Most brewers will probably tell you that the most efficient mash tun design is the one they have. I can tell you that I've taken mine through a couple upgrades to get dramatic efficiency boosts. I have a 10 gallon cylindrical rubbermaid and would not want anything less, in terms of volume, for my mash tun. As for the lautering, I like the CPVC manifold design I built. There are pics of it in my gallery (link to the left of the post under my name). I used to use a braided hose, but had inconsistent efficiency due to dead space left over. The manifold solved that problem. The manifold also allowed me to fly sparge. What I like about fly sparging is how consistent I can be. I can dial my efficiency within a couple percentage points of my target based on my lautering flow rate (1qt/minute gets me 77-79% every time). I could go higher with a slower flow rate, but I don't want to extract tannins and besides, consistency is much more important than really high efficiency numbers.

10 gallon round beverage cooler with false bottom. Way better than rectangle with manifold.

I actually use the Papazian Zapap and love it. Probably won't change. Most people complain about that system because they think drilling the holes is a pain.

You will not find a consensus on this.

I think most people just go ghetto and build whatever is cheapest. You might find coolers of all sorts on clearance this time of year. After labor day, for sure.

I had a coleman extreme cooler laying around along with some CPVC left over from a project and used those. I drilled holes through the pipe to make a manifold and this setup works great. I ran down to Menards and picked up the specified brass fittings and the rest is history.

arturo7 said:

You will not find a consensus on this.

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This is the truth.

I would keep it cheap (in case you don't like your particular setup), and do at least 10 gallons. The urge to do a big beer or 10 gallons will arise some day.

Also right on to the guy mentioning consistency over efficiency.

Dead space is a big consideration for efficiency. An inverted sanke keg with a false bottom and insulation added is, in my mind, the best bang for the buck, and can also be used for huge beers and 10 gallon batches.

my efficiency is 82% consistently using a sankey keg with insulation......and the ability to heat the mash to change temps is very important IMHO

JonK331 said:

10 gallon round beverage cooler with false bottom. Way better than rectangle with manifold.

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Your momma.


signed my rectangular mash tun.

wildwest450 said:

Your momma.


signed my rectangular mash tun.

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So what about channeling and the fact that rectangular/square mash tuns simply do not exist in the professional brewing world?

ZAPAP!

Round can be a challenge to do on the cheap once you get over 10 gallons.

I regularly get efficiencies in the high 80's/low 90's with my rectangular cooler-tun. Lately I've been taking steps to reduce the efficiency somewhat as I've noticed a slight astringent bite in some of my beers.

arturo7 said:

You will not find a consensus on this.

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Oh yeah? I think he'll totally find a consensus on this!




OP, what you'll find is that you can get great efficiencies, (75-85%), with ANY type of mash tun, with EITHER batch or fly sparging. Just make whatever you wanna make.

JonK331 said:

So what about channeling and the fact that rectangular/square mash tuns simply do not exist in the professional brewing world?

ZAPAP!

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Cylindrical tanks distribute the pressure of the contents evenly around their circumference and have fewer welds to fail. That's why tanker trucks and pressure tanks are cylindrical.

I think...:cross:

well this is homebrewing so what ever works for you. go cheap in the begining since you might want to change things later.

i just did my first ag few days ago and my $10 MLT got 88% efficiency. i will likely upgrade but, for now it is just fine.

vincemash said:

my efficiency is 82% consistently using a sankey keg with insulation......and the ability to heat the mash to change temps is very important IMHO

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Vincemash, I just acquired a sankey (with false bottom) to use as my MLT, and am looking for a good insulation solution. What is this you have on yours, and where did you get it? Or did you make it? Thanks in advance.

JonK331 said:

10 gallon round beverage cooler with false bottom. Way better than rectangle with manifold.

I actually use the Papazian Zapap and love it. Probably won't change. Most people complain about that system because they think drilling the holes is a pain.

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Where is your proof of this? I get high 80's and low 90's with my rectangular cooler that my grandfather gave me (it's old!), plus my $15 bulkhead with steel braid.

arturo7 said:

You will not find a consensus on this.

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Yes you will!

I like to use a plain 'ol 20 qt stockpot to mash in. Once mashed in, i put it into a styrofoam lined box to keep it warm. I like being able to put my mash tun on the heat if needed (not an option when mashing in a cooler, although you could always add small amounts of boiling water if you lost too much heat and needed to raise the temp). I use the "zapap" false bottom inside a spigoted bucket for lautering and sparging. My mash efficiency generally runs above 80%, sometimes over 90%.

My advice... read as much as you can and use whatever methods seem to make the most sense and work best with the space you have to work with.