tips to improve biab effeciency

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irishrover32

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done my first biab brew yesterday and my effeciency was pretty bad at 55%, i didn really squeez the bag that much for fear of tannings, could this be a problem? also i used pilsner malt and did a 60 min mash at 154F i think i read somewhere that pilsner needs to be mashed for a long time? would a mash out help and how would i perform one?
 
Make sure you get your grain double milled (milled twice). Stir your mash every 15 minutes or so. Squeeze the heck out of the bag. There are multiple threads on here about tannins not being produced by squeezing but more from tempurature.

Also...when u use pilsner, from what I remember, you need a boil of 90 minutes to rid of potential DMS. Not sure about the mash time.
 
irishrover32 said:
done my first biab brew yesterday and my effeciency was pretty bad at 55%, i didn really squeez the bag that much for fear of tannings, could this be a problem? also i used pilsner malt and did a 60 min mash at 154F i think i read somewhere that pilsner needs to be mashed for a long time? would a mash out help and how would i perform one?

A mash out might help a little bit, but you are only going to squeeze a few points out of that. Like what was said above, stir every 15 minutes so the enzymes have access to all of the sugars. This will help a lot.

As for double milling, it can help. However, I BIAB and only mill once and get 80% efficiency. I stir every 15 mins, perform a mash out, and then squeeze the heck out of the bag (never had a problem with tannins).
 
+1 on stirring. I break my mash up into 15 minute intervals and fire up the burner between each one to recover any lost temp. I stir the entire time that the flame is on, which is 2 or 3 minutes. At 154, a 60 min mash should've been fine, but with that said, I usually do 75 minutes minimum, and longer when mashing at lower temps. I have found that some of my best efficiencies have come when I mashed longer than usual, so I think the length of the mash can make a difference. As far as I know, Pilsner does not require a longer mash, but you should give it a 90 minute boil to ensure that all of the precursers for DMS are boiled off. With a decent crush and plenty of stirring, you should be hitting 80%.
 
done my first biab brew yesterday and my effeciency was pretty bad at 55%, i didn really squeez the bag that much for fear of tannings, could this be a problem? also i used pilsner malt and did a 60 min mash at 154F i think i read somewhere that pilsner needs to be mashed for a long time? would a mash out help and how would i perform one?

Did you sparge at all? When I use BIAB, I generally do a "batch sparge" in 160 - 165 degree water - since the wort you pull out of the initial mash is small compared to the usual boil volume, this is pretty easy. I use about 3 gallons for my batch sparge . .. it increases my efficiency significantly.
 
Did you sparge at all? When I use BIAB, I generally do a "batch sparge" in 160 - 165 degree water - since the wort you pull out of the initial mash is small compared to the usual boil volume, this is pretty easy. I use about 3 gallons for my batch sparge . .. it increases my efficiency significantly.

I do a small "pourover sparge," a couple gallons of 160F water. I just scoop up some with a 1qt. pyrex measuring cup and slowly pour it over the bag, moving the stream around to cover well. After that, I squeeze the bag like it owes me money.

I get around 75-80% efficiency with this.
 
I have found these things to push my BIAB efficiency upward by quite a bit. My mash efficiency in the high 80s, occasionally in the 90s depending on the gravity of the beer I'm going for. Last batch was supposed to be 1.088, I got 1.090 OG without breaking a sweat.

1. Use an accurate thermometer so you're not mashing at temps all over the place.
2. Mash with full volume of water for 60-90 minutes. This helps keep temps stable, too. I mash-out at 168 for 10 minutes or so and this may or may not have an efficiency boosting effect. I feel that it makes the grains easier to squeeze out, YMMV.
3. Be accurate with weighing grains. What the shop put on the bag may not be right.
4. Agitate the mash thoroughly with a whisk and monitor temp every 10 minutes, adjusting if needed.
5. Squeeze the bag to hit your boil volume, squeeze more if you don't hit your pre-boil OG. You can always evap a bit before you start the boil to reduce volume and pick a few points up.
 
1) The crush: This has a bigger influence than you might think. Where are you getting your grains? Are they setting the mill to a more narrow gap (I set the one at my LHBS to .033" for a single pass) than they would for a mash tun brewer who is concerned with stuck sparges? Can you get them to double mill it? You want a good crush with no whole kernels. Some flour is fine. Some BIAB folks crush really fine with lots of flour.

2) Stir, stir, stir. A full 9-10 minutes at dough-in and then a few stirs during the mashing time.

3) Squeeze that bag like it owes you money. Get all of the goodness out of it that you can. Fear of tannins from squeezing is something of a boogeyman in homebrewing.

I get a pretty consistent 75-76% brewhouse efficiency on my E-BIAB system, although it provides the advantage of recirculation (via a pump) of the wort back over top of the mash.
 
I'm not sure about my LHBSill try find out but if I can't get a finer grain would you recommend goin at them with a rolling pin?

I doubt that you can exert enough force on the rolling pin to have much effect. Blow the budget for this month and get a Corona style mill so you can do your own milling. It will have a fairly quick payback in terms of using less grain because of the efficiency increase and the lack of inconsistency you find with the LHBS mills. I use one like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U5NZ4I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Those corona style mills always looked to me like they can't be accurately set,like the grain mills usually used in home brewing. I popped the $130 on the Barley Crusher grain mill with the crank handle,wood base made to fit a 5 gallon bucket & 7lb hopper. It has notches on the adjustment knobs for the factory setting of .039". I've found that to work very well indeed with PB/PM BIAB brewing with a single pass. Good crush for biab brewing,& a lot less of that poofy flour stuff that really isn't needed. I put a round cake cooling rack in the bottom of my 5G SS BK/MT,then stretch the nylon paint strainer bag over the lip of the kettle & hang my floating thermometer in the kettle with a hangman's noose made out of a few breadbag twisties tied to the kettle handle. Makes for easy depth adjustment as well.
This way,I can mash 5-6 pounds of grain in 2G of water quite easilly. Then heat sparge water of 1.5-1.75 gallons while the BK/MT is wrapped up in my quilted winter hunting coat for the mash. The sparge water heats up in a 2G SS stock pot. I lift the grain bag out of the kettle & into a SS colander on top of the BK/MT to drain. Then sanitize a 2C Pyrex measure to slowly pour the 165-168F sparge water over the open grain bag to sparge off more sweet wort goodness. I much prefer this method to get my total boil volume of 3.5-3.75 gallons in my 5G (20QT) SS kettle. My efficiency went through the roof on my last batch. I brewed two batches of pm IPA's,same recipe save for the hops used. First batch came out with an OG1.061. Wow,cool...I'll take that. Then the second batch a couple days later came out OG1.074. Same amounts of everything,same process,stirred top off roughly & for the same few minutes straight as well. I measured the grains in half from the total amount purchased at 5.6lbs. The second batch,I didn't bother,since all were halved the first time. That is to say,the 1pound bags that were to be used a half pound at a time. There were 1 lb bags labekled for what type they were,& I measured those out of curiosity alone. They were indeed over very slightly weight-wise,but only about one tenth pound. Very good efficiency above the norm is indeed possible with biab.
 
I "crush" with a blender. Since a fine crush is better with BIAB, and it's easy with very little practice. I just blend until no more whole kernels are visible. It looks the same as store crush. I get about 75%.
If my efficiency is low, (I'm new to brewing) I add extract. Keep some light extract handy.
 
just a little update: i brewed a big belgium trippel yesterday and im delighted to say i came out with an estimated effeciency of 75% with just the normal grain i got from my LHBS, no double crush (as far as i know) altohugh it does look quite fine with a fair bit of powder in it but anyways im very happy. i done a 90 minute mash and stirred it every 15 minutes and squeeze the life out of the bag, so hard in fact i had sore fingers for the night :p

thanks for all the tips and advice cheers
 
just a little update: i brewed a big belgium trippel yesterday and im delighted to say i came out with an estimated effeciency of 75% with just the normal grain i got from my LHBS, no double crush (as far as i know) altohugh it does look quite fine with a fair bit of powder in it but anyways im very happy. i done a 90 minute mash and stirred it every 15 minutes and squeeze the life out of the bag, so hard in fact i had sore fingers for the night :p

thanks for all the tips and advice cheers

Next time, please post a video of you squeezin the life outta the bag. :D
 
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