Hop stand

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wyobrewer1

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I just read the article in BYO about hop stands. I was thinking about using this technique for my next IPA but wanted to see if anyone had any experience with using this method.
 
wyobrewer1 said:
I just read the article in BYO about hop stands. I was thinking about using this technique for my next IPA but wanted to see if anyone had any experience with using this method.
On my last DIPA, I did a decent flameout addition and let that sit for 20 minutes. At that point my wort had dropped into the 180s. I then added 4oz of hops, stirred really good and then let it sit for another 20 minutes. It's an amazing technique. After 3 1/2 weeks in the fermenter there was plenty of fresh hop aroma and flavor even before I dry hopped it. I won't do another IPA without a hop stand.
 
How much did you dry hop with? The article quoted a study that found by using hop stand/whirlpool techniques you can get away with using less hops. This seems like a great/cheap way to get more aroma and flavor from using less hops.
 
wyobrewer1 said:
How much did you dry hop with? The article quoted a study that found by using hop stand/whirlpool techniques you can get away with using less hops. This seems like a great/cheap way to get more aroma and flavor from using less hops.

I dry hopped with 4 oz. I was going for a major hop bomb, though.
 
I used this method with my last DIPA. Added my hops immediately after flameout, and let steep for 45 mins. By the end of the hopstand the wort had cooled to about 150°F. To achieve the whirlpool affect, I basically stood over my pot for the entire period and stirred every few minutes, lol. It was a pain in the ass, but I LOVE the result. The beer was very aromatic right from the start and and retained far better hop aroma and flavor than a similar recipe I brewed previously without the hopstand. Like WesleyS, I won't brew another IPA without one.
 
From what I've been reading on the subject, take both the dry-hopping and aroma additions and use those hops instead. Also, hopstands seem to work really well when you perform them for 80-90 minutes - again, from what I've read. I would not let the wort cool below 170. Fire the burner occasionally to keep it in the ~180 vicinity.
 
IslandLizard said:
Did you dry hop with another 4 oz in addition to the 4 oz hop stand? That would be a major, major hop bomb.

Yes, in addition. Like I said, Hop bomb. :)
 
I've done two IPA's with 3 oz of hops steaping at 170 for 30 minutes and the result was great. I will continue to do hops stands for all my IPA / IIPA 's. Both were new recipes so I can't compare to not doing a stand.
 
I'm brewing tomorrow using Columbus centennial and Simcoe. My plan is to use 0.5 ounce each centennial and Simcoe in a 30 minute hop stand and stir every 5 minutes or so just to keep it moving. Then I'm dry hopping with 0.5 ounce Columbus and and ounce of Simcoe.
 
I just used this technique in a recent IPA but for those of you that follow the Mad Fermentationist blog I used a technique that he does which included a two stage hop stand. My first addition was 2 oz of Nelson Sauvin hops and these were steeped immediately after flameout for 30 minutes. Then when I started my chill I added another ounce of Nelson. This batch is currently in its dry-hop stage but taste samples indicate an incredible Nelson hop flavor (this peach/apricot white grape juice).

Can't wait for this one and like an above poster said I will not brew another IPA without a hop-stand.
 
I'd be interested to hear from others experimenting with different quantities, temps, and time. I'm about to brew an IIPA and want to do a hop stand. I already have the ingredients so I'd really be interested in the most economic way to use this technique.
I was planning on 2oz for flameout and 4 for dry hop. I might move 2oz of the dry hop to a hop stand about 30 mins after flameout.
 
I've done a hop stand on my IPA for the last couple times I brewed it. I only do a couple ounces in the stand and 1-2 ounces for dry hopping (for a 5 gallon batch).

But what I do is get the wort to 140 as fast as possible then Do the hop stand for usually about 30 minutes. I read a while bak that if you get the wort down to the 140 range, then it lessens the chance for dms pre cursors (I think that's it) and other things.

Now the key though is to cover the vessel that I hop stand in. That way any of the volatiles from the hops won't escape through the steam. So I cover mine the entire hop stand.

With this technique, I (and my family and friends) have an IPA recipe that in my opinion, is better than most IPAs I have drank to date.

Just my own ways of doing things. ;)
 
I've been experimenting with hop stands for my last 5 or so batches and really like the results better than late boil additions.

Just Kegged a 2.5 gal Pale Ale with the only hop addition being 3 oz of Centennial (type) right at FO for 30 min. Stole a taste while kegging and it was plenty bitter with lots of good hoppy flavor. Aroma was good but not as good as dry hopping.

I think most of my IPA's and Pale Ales will be a combination of FWH, FO, and dry hopping in the future instead of late boil additions.
 
I've brewed one IPA so far and I dry hopped with 0.5 ounce per gallon. This time I'm trying the hop stand and a 0.25 ounce per gallon dry hop. I'm hoping I get better flavor plus just as much aroma. Ill let everyone know how it goes.
 
I mentioned this before, but some of those essential hop oils volatilize at a low temperature (myrcene is 110F, I think). Depending on the character you want, doing a hop stand at a lower temperature might be more to one's liking.

The other thing to consider is that you definitely want a lid on your kettle while you're doing the stand, to re-capture anything that does volatilize and boil off.

Some people say 170F for 45 minutes works, some say 120F or lower for 15 minutes does wonders, and I've seen every combination of temp and time in between and beyond. Depends on the hops you're working with, the character you're after, and your methods.

More reading here.
 
I have been working on an IPA (recipe, water treatment, hops, timing, procedure, etc) for a while now and reached out to the Mad Fermentationist for some help and he pointed me to a hopstand. For my last batch I used a total of 8 oz of hops for what would become a full 5 gallons. I wanted to add 3 ozs after chilling to 170, but my kiddos needed help and bye the time I got back the wort was @ 120, I added the 3 ozs anyway and steeped them for 35-45 mins before chilling the rest of the way. I used Simcoe ( a TON), Cascade and Chinook and the stand was 2 oz Simcoe/ 1 oz Cascade. Results were the best IPA I have made. Going to do a few small batches and try different temps and times, but this batch is fantastic! I also dry hopped w 2.5 ozs.

On a side note, I changed my dry hopping method for this beer. I added the pellets loose and swirled the carboy gently everyday and only left them in contact at room temp for 4 days and then cold crashed for 2 days, aroma is a bit grassy, but beer is young, otherwise reminds me of a cross between Myrcenary and All Day IPA.
 
great feedback, glad to hear that this is a legit technique. I'm planning to brew the Heady Topper clone that they listed along with this article for my next brew. I have one can of Heady that I've been sitting on, I'm going to culture the Conan yeast from the can and use it for the clone recipe.
 
About 3/4 of my beer are hoppy IPAs and I've found that first attaining around 75% of my desired IBUs through First Wort Hop (FWH) makes for a smoother bittering backbone. Then my late additions (the other 25% of my IBUs) go in at 15, 10 and 5 min, then a hopstand. Generally I'll add about .75oz/ gallon 15 mins after flameout and let it sit covered for around 30 mins before sending the wort over to the cooling kettle. I also like dry-hopping around the same .75oz/ gallon ratio. Helps to buy hops by the pound :mug:
 
I did a hop stand a few months ago on an IPA I was doing. My main question is if the CO2 pushes out alot of the hop aroma early on. The beer smelled great with big hop notes for the first few days of fermentation. After that, the hop aroma really went away and never returned. How are you guys getting such great hop aroma from a hop stand?
 
I have done this technique a few times. Last time, I cooled the wort to 180 prior to putting the hops for the stand in. I put in 3 oz of hops for the stand, and then hit the brew with 5 oz of hops for a dry hop after fermentation was complete. Goooood stuff!
 
I'm also planning to try this technique. I do my hop-boils by putting my hops in a hop sack. Would this work ok with a hop stand? Or should I plan to go naked - uh... with the hops, that is? Thanks for the advice!
 
I always use a mesh bag for the boil. Then, I pull the bag used in the boil at flameout and start to chill to 180. Then I put the hop stand hops in using a different mesh bag.
 
I love the technique... I have pumps and can do a psuedo whirlpool. Adds major aroma, as well as increses the bitterness. I think I will do it on all my IPA's as well.
I do also hop right in the keg and that takes it to the next level.
 
I used hopstands with my last two brews, an IPA and a Pliny The Elder clone. I was originally reading about this technique in Stan Hieronymus' For the Love of hops and then shortly after I read the article in BYO. I haven't experimented with different temperatures yet. I just shut off the heat and then added my Flame Out hops, stirred for a few minutes, put the lid on, and let it sit for 30 min before chilling. I can say that I will never brew an IPA or DIPA without using a hopstand, the results are amazing! I dare say any hophead who smells the results of brewing with a hopstand will be jumping up and down from excitement.

Even after fermentation and before dry hopping there was a much stronger and fuller hop aroma than I have ever had with any IPA I have brewed.

I didn't dry hop the IPA and it had a wonderful aroma to it when it was time to drink. I did dry hop the Pliny The Elder clone recipe, a 2 stage dry hopping. I dry hopped in a secondary for a week and then put some hops in a stainless steel teaball and dropped it in when I kegged. The teaball stayed in the keg for the life of the beer. The smell from the Pliny The Elder clone was so amazing, I couldn't believe how well it came out. It was the freshest most wonderful hop smell coming from the beer, a hop bouquet if you will.

I think putting a small amount 3/4-1 oz of hops and dry hopping in the keg, in addition to a regular dry hop schedule, is something I am going to do with all IPAs and DIPAs as well. The stainless steel teaball kept all the hops inside and only received a minuscule amount of hop debris in my first two pints from the keg, the rest was clear. When I finally finished the keg and cleaned it out all the hops were in the teaball still and no mess at the bottom of the keg.

Hopstands -> YES!
Dry Hopping in Keg -> YES!
 
Yep. I also dry hop in the keg. Dry hop at room temp for about 4 or 5 days, then put it in the keezer and leave the hops in there until the keg kicks. Delicious.
 
I'm planning on giving this a shot, but I have a quick question about it...

If you chill to 180ish and then do your hop stand does that negatively affect the formation of cold break and/or beer clarity?

I guess I've never really heard a good answer as to what specific temp. & time the wort needs to hit in order for the cold break to form & coagulate.
 
I'm planning on giving this a shot, but I have a quick question about it...

If you chill to 180ish and then do your hop stand does that negatively affect the formation of cold break and/or beer clarity?

I guess I've never really heard a good answer as to what specific temp. & time the wort needs to hit in order for the cold break to form & coagulate.

I was wondering the same. I've always tried to chill the wort as quickly as possible to keep my beer clear. I would certainly give up a bit of clarity for great flavor.
 
My third hopstand IPA was just kegged yesterday. I've tasted it and it's got great flavor and aroma but they definitely don't come out as clear as a boil-hopped beer does.

I can't pour one right now but I will try to remember to update this thread later today or tomorrow with a picture of a pint. I have a poker tournament tonight and things can get a little crazy around here.
 
The stainless steel teaball kept all the hops inside and only received a minuscule amount of hop debris in my first two pints from the keg, the rest was clear. When I finally finished the keg and cleaned it out all the hops were in the teaball still and no mess at the bottom of the keg.

This is a fantastic idea! I'd always wondered about hops in the keg to try and hang on to the aroma a little longer but worried about pellets running free and clogging the dip tube and the same thing with a bag. The teaball is perfect! I'm going to get one tonight and drop some simcoe into my IPA that just hit the co2 on Sunday.
 
I've been using a hop stand with my flameout addition on my IPAs lately and have had great results. But to be fair, I have also been doing pretty massive dry hopping in the keg. So I usually just throw in my flameout hops, cut the burner then let it sit for 30 minutes before I start the chiller. FWIW, my clarity has not suffered doing it this way.
 
Apart from clarity, do you still get a good amount of cold break in the fully cooled wort after the hop stand?
 
Apart from clarity, do you still get a good amount of cold break in the fully cooled wort after the hop stand?

I haven't noticed any less cold break in the kettle. But swirling hop debris and cold break look pretty similar to me.

Here's a pic, rather than have me describe how clear it is. It's hazy and definitely not as clear as boil-hopped brews I've made.

photo(4).jpg
 
I haven't noticed any less cold break in the kettle. But swirling hop debris and cold break look pretty similar to me.

Here's a pic, rather than have me describe how clear it is. It's hazy and definitely not as clear as boil-hopped brews I've made.

Yum. That lacing looks delicious.

Thanks for the info. Gonna try this when I brew my El Dorado pale ale this weekend. Looking forward to the experiment.
 
Yes, I get good cold break. I use a mesh bag for the hops in my hop stand, so I don't have hop particles to deal with. I also use whirlfloc. I would get a picture of my latest IPA, but the keg kicked last night. :( It was a very clear beer.
 
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