American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

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Brewing this up tomorrow. Looked at the "sessionable" aspect, and dropped the base to 11 lbs, but I could only get Crisp Amber and I went with pale ale base instead of regular pale 2-row. Same hop schedule, get to try out my newly-built hop spider. Using US-05 as it has served me well on my other IPA's. BS has this one coming in at 6.1% based on my efficiency, so looking forward to it as DFH60 is one of my favorite go-to IPA's. Thanks, Yoop!
 
HopinJim said:
Brewing this up tomorrow. Looked at the "sessionable" aspect, and dropped the base to 11 lbs, but I could only get Crisp Amber and I went with pale ale base instead of regular pale 2-row. Same hop schedule, get to try out my newly-built hop spider. Using US-05 as it has served me well on my other IPA's. BS has this one coming in at 6.1% based on my efficiency, so looking forward to it as DFH60 is one of my favorite go-to IPA's. Thanks, Yoop!
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I made this today. Well, sort of. I changed it up, making more my "house IPA" than the DFH clone it started out to be.

I used 20 pounds of two-row and 1 pound crisp amber malt for a 10 gallon batch, so I'd end up with less than 6% ABV. I really like session IPAs, so I can have a couple of them and still be functional. :drunk:
 
I'm going to brew a version of this on Sunday but I don't have any more amarillo. Would you suggest Citra or Cascade to substitute?
 
DocScott said:
I'm going to brew a version of this on Sunday but I don't have any more amarillo. Would you suggest Citra or Cascade to substitute?
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Cascade is closer. Ahtanum would be nice.
 
So I kegged this up on Thursday, and it's drinkable today. Now let me just say, I am a HUGE DFH 60 fanboy...been to the brewpub, been to the brewery, got the t-shirt...love the stuff. But I would say that this recipe is as good, if not slightly better! The bitterness seems a touch smother than the "real" DFH. Hats off to you, Yooper, this is a keeper! Will now be my house IPA. As I stated in my earlier post, I lightened up the base grain bill a little, to 11# of Pale Ale malt, and the ABV came in at 6.3, which is pretty much spot on for what I was shooting for.
Thanks, Yoop!
 
HopinJim said:
So I kegged this up on Thursday, and it's drinkable today. Now let me just say, I am a HUGE DFH 60 fanboy...been to the brewpub, been to the brewery, got the t-shirt...love the stuff. But I would say that this recipe is as good, if not slightly better! The bitterness seems a touch smother than the "real" DFH. Hats off to you, Yooper, this is a keeper! Will now be my house IPA. As I stated in my earlier post, I lightened up the base grain bill a little, to 11# of Pale Ale malt, and the ABV came in at 6.3, which is pretty much spot on for what I was shooting for.
Thanks, Yoop!
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I'm glad you like it as much as I do! I really love this beer. I'm drinking it right now (at this moment, in fact) but used BRY-97 for the yeast, and a higher sulfate water than I normally do, and I just don't like it as much as the "regular" version.

This one has a more pronounced almost exaggerated firm bitterness and less hops aroma. I did read on the BRY-97 description that beers could be less hoppy due to high flocculation, but it's still firmly bitter. I'm going to make the next batch exactly according to the recipe!
 
Well, I just used good ol' US-05, and it tastes wonderful! As an experiment though, I might actually try it with either s-04 or one of the other English strains just for curiosity's sake.
 
Just had to say it...so it's been a couple of weeks or so now since this became drinkable, and now that it's "cleared" and aged a bit, it is now my favorite! So now I have two "house brews"...this and my brown ale. Guess I need to publish the recipe for my brown and see if anybody else likes it as much as the folks here do...
 
Just finished my brew day and I am so excited. Thanks to Yooper I had many of my questions answered and I am now very confident. Wort smelled so delicious and I got 1.070 with the DME version. Can't wait to see how it ferments. Thanks Yooper, you have been a great help!
 
This is good, like really really good

image-4010586308.jpg
 
This is easily by favourite brew. It's so so good. I'd like to shake things up the next time I brew it and maybe age it on some poplar wood. What do you guys think?
 
Yooper said:
13 Pounds 2-row (US) 6 ounces Thomas Fawcett amber malt. .75 Warrior hops 16.4% AA (60 minutes) SEE NOTES ON HOPPING! .50 Amarillo Gold 8.5% (35 minutes) .50 Simcoe 12% (30 minutes) .50 Simcoe 12% Dry hop 1.00 Amarillo Gold Dry hop Irish Moss ( 1 tsp with 15 minutes left in the boil) Continuous hopping! Add 1/2 the warrior at 60 minutes and then add a little at a time until 35 minutes. AT 35 minutes, mix the amarillo and simcoe together and add a little at a time until you are at 0. Try to time the additions so that you end up with a few hops still at 0 minutes. Pacman yeast used- took the f.g. to 1.010! Hops were added as continous- first warrior only for the first 25 minutes just a few pellets at a time, then remainder all mixed together and continuosly added, starting at 35 minutes. Beer turned out fantastic! __________________________________________________________________________________________' Extract recipe: DFH clone Batch Size: 5.00 gal Boil Size: 2.5 gal Estimated OG: 1.072 SG Estimated Color: 13.1 SRM Estimated IBU: 49.8 IBU Boil Time: 60 Minutes Ingredients: Amount Item Type % or IBU 9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 % 1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 % 1.25 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops 26.7 IBU (Read notes!) 1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (35 min) Hops 10.0 IBU 1.00 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (30 min) Hops 13.1 IBU (Read notes! 1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops 0.50 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops Notes: Pacman yeast used, but any clean well attenuating yeast can be used. Try WLP001, Nottingham, or 1056 if pacman is not available. Hops were added as continuous first warrior for the first 25 minutes ( approximately half at 60 minutes, then a little bit at a time until 35 minutes was left in the boil). Then the rest of the hops were mixed together, and added continuously at 35 minutes. You can use dry malt extract instead of the liquid if you=d like- use 8 pounds of DME instead. Directions: Steep the crystal in a grain bag in 2.5 gallons of water at 150-155 degrees for 20 minutes. Remove the grains, and discard them. Bring that Atea@ to a boil. When it is boiling, remove it from the heat (take it OFF the burner!) And stir in the LME. Put it back on the burner, and bring it to a boil. When it is boiling, add approximately half of the warrior hops you have. Set the timer for 60 minutes. After that, continue adding a pellet or two or five, every minute or so, until there is 35 minutes left on your timer. Try to time it so you are out of warrior pellets at 35 minutes left. Mix the rest of the hops together in a bowl. When you have 35 minutes left, start adding those hops just a few at a time, trying to end with the last of them when your timer hits 0 and you turn the flame off. Chill the wort rapidly, add to your fermenter, and top up to 5 gallons with cool water. Check the temperature to ensure it is around 70 degrees, and pitch a neutral yeast like American ale yeast (1056), or dry yeast like nottingham or safale s05. Ferment until completely done, and then allow to rest. Two weeks is pretty good. Then, rack to a clean 5 gallon carboy and dry hop with the dryhopping hops. You can either just put them into the fermenter and rack onto them, or use a hops bag if you=d like. Just don=t pack them tightly, you want the beer to be in contact with the hops. Use two or three bags if you need them. After about a week, you can rack to a bottling bucket avoiding the hops chunks, and bottle. Prime as usual, with approx. 3.5- 4 ounces priming sugar for 5 gallons of beer. You may have less than 5 gallons, due to the hops sucking up some of the beer, that=s why 3.5-4 ounces is a good bet.
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Hi yooper

I can't get warrior or simcoe

Could I substitute centennial land cascade for these
Thanks
 
Yooper said:
There really isn't a substitute for simcoe, unfortunately. For warrior, galena or magnum would work great- I sub magnum most often.
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I'll just have to go with what I've got but thanks

How do I know when to add different hops

Centennial is bittering right So I add that at 60 mins but how do I decide on different ones
 
Yooper said:
There really isn't a substitute for simcoe, unfortunately. For warrior, galena or magnum would work great- I sub magnum most often.
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Okay after looking at a few different recipes and what I can get my hands on how would this work out 12 lb pale lme 1lb crystal malt 80l 2oz centennial 60 mins 2oz nugget 60 mins 1.2 centennial 45 mins 1.2 centennial 30 mins 2oz cascade 15 mins 0.66 oz centennial 0 mins 2oz cascade dry hop 7 days 1 packet dry american ale yeast Thanks
On second looking my colour seems off and removing the the crystal seems to have put it back in the green on beer smith
 
kal1701 said:
Okay after looking at a few different recipes and what I can get my hands on how would this work out 12 lb pale lme 1lb crystal malt 80l 2oz centennial 60 mins 2oz nugget 60 mins 1.2 centennial 45 mins 1.2 centennial 30 mins 2oz cascade 15 mins 0.66 oz centennial 0 mins 2oz cascade dry hop 7 days 1 packet dry american ale yeast Thanks
On second looking my colour seems off and removing the the crystal seems to have put it back in the green on beer smith
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You will make a decent beer, but it will not be close to a DFH clone. Amber malt and crystal malt are two different beasts. The 80l is a crystal malt and will give you carmel and sweetness in the beer. A pound of 80l in an IPA is a lot of crystal (esepcially given the darker color). A large number of folks will keep crystal malts to about 5% of the grist for IPAs, but it is really all about personal preference.

Amber malt is a toasted malt (not a crystal/caramel malt). It will not provide you with the sweetness that crystal malts will give off. Toasted malts are made by essentially "toasting" base grains. Crystal malts go through a different process in order to crystalize the sugars in the malt.
 
kal1701 said:
Okay after looking at a few different recipes and what I can get my hands on how would this work out 12 lb pale lme 1lb crystal malt 80l 2oz centennial 60 mins 2oz nugget 60 mins 1.2 centennial 45 mins 1.2 centennial 30 mins 2oz cascade 15 mins 0.66 oz centennial 0 mins 2oz cascade dry hop 7 days 1 packet dry american ale yeast Thanks
On second looking my colour seems off and removing the the crystal seems to have put it back in the green on beer smith
Click to expand...

I see you're using LMExtract therefore you'd be better off following Yooper's extract clone recipe. In it, she specifies 40L crystal which would have a less burnt sugar character and sweeter profile (as opposed to 80L you have listed). Also, she uses significantly less LME than you are planning. If you go with 12lb LME you will be looking at about 2% higher ABV which will unbalance this recipe. Here's her recipe in case you missed it:
Extract recipe:
DFH clone

Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 2.5 gal
Estimated OG: 1.072 SG
Estimated Color: 13.1 SRM
Estimated IBU: 49.8 IBU

Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:

Amount Item Type % or IBU
9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %

1.25 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops 26.7 IBU
(Read notes!)

1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (35 min) Hops 10.0 IBU
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (30 min) Hops 13.1 IBU
(Read notes!

1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops
0.50 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops
Click to expand...

Your hop schedule is going to be quite different which will make your beer different than hers, but based on your selection of hops it is still going to be great. It looks like you have these hops and quantities to work with:

5oz centennial
2oz nugget
4oz cascade

You can do a lot with those. I would schedule them differently than you have planned though to maximize some of the citrusy hop characters:

1 oz Nugget 60 min
2 oz Cascade 10 min
0.5 oz Nugget 10 min
1.5 oz Centennial 5 min
0.5 oz Nugget 5 min
2 oz Centennial Flameout and 20-45 minute steep at 175F
1 oz Cascade Flameout and 20-45 minute steep at 175F

1.5 oz Centennial Dryhop 7 days
1 oz Cascade Dryhop 7 days

I assume the IBUs should work out plenty bitter with that schedule but without knowing the AA% of the hops it's hard to position them much better.

Hope this helps.
 
stpug said:
I see you're using LMExtract therefore you'd be better off following Yooper's extract clone recipe. In it, she specifies 40L crystal which would have a less burnt sugar character and sweeter profile (as opposed to 80L you have listed). Also, she uses significantly less LME than you are planning. If you go with 12lb LME you will be looking at about 2% higher ABV which will unbalance this recipe. Here's her recipe in case you missed it: Your hop schedule is going to be quite different which will make your beer different than hers, but based on your selection of hops it is still going to be great. It looks like you have these hops and quantities to work with: 5oz centennial 2oz nugget 4oz cascade You can do a lot with those. I would schedule them differently than you have planned though to maximize some of the citrusy hop characters: 1 oz Nugget 60 min 2 oz Cascade 10 min 0.5 oz Nugget 10 min 1.5 oz Centennial 5 min 0.5 oz Nugget 5 min 2 oz Centennial Flameout and 20-45 minute steep at 175F 1 oz Cascade Flameout and 20-45 minute steep at 175F 1.5 oz Centennial Dryhop 7 days 1 oz Cascade Dryhop 7 days I assume the IBUs should work out plenty bitter with that schedule but without knowing the AA% of the hops it's hard to position them much better. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this

When you say flameout do you mean when the 60 min boil has finished
So would I bag these hops and put them in with the lid on for that time before cooling the wort

Thanks
 
kal1701 said:
Thanks for this

When you say flameout do you mean when the 60 min boil has finished
So would I bag these hops and put them in with the lid on for that time before cooling the wort

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes, flameout would be when the boil is all done and you're done with your heat source.

You can bag if that works best for your process. Sometimes I bag my hops, sometimes I don't. I prefer not to but I like the hop-free wort when I do. It's a real dilemma :D

I like to cool my wort to ~185-175F first (depends on my mood). Then I stop cooling and put in my hops, and cover my pot for the steep time. After that I finish up cooling as quick as I can so I can be done :D. You can put your hops in immediately at the end of the boil, cool to 180ish, and then steep. You can cool to 160ish. I've gone as low as 145 before adding hops but I wasn't impressed with the results - I like it a fair bit hotter.

There is no "perfect" or "right" way in brewing (there are some "wrong" ways though). It's very open to interpretation and that's part of what makes it so much fun. Have fun and let us know how your beer turns out.

I did one last night with a 180-175F steep for 75 minutes - longest I've ever done. It's smelled wonderful when all was said and done. Can't wait to be drinking it in a few weeks.
 
I brewed this yesterday, unfortunately i printed my recipe weeks ago and i didn't read over it. Needless to say i didn't continuously hop, Instead i added .75 warrior at 60 amariillo at 35 and simcoe at 30, and immediately after throwing in the last hops realized i had messed up. So i threw in another .3 ounce of amarillo and simcoe at 5 minutes. Guess we shall see how that turns out.
 
Bottled yesterday and color, clarity and smell were already tantalizing. Like many others on this thread I had to sample the last dregs that would not completely fill a bottle. It was more delicious than any other beer I have made and it was completely flat. I bought the oxygen barrier caps to help preserve the aroma but I will probably drink them all before that would even become an issue. By the way I followed the DME version to the letter and came up with 6.7%. Thanks Yooper. Now which of your recipes is next? Oatmeal stout or brown ale?
 
I know everyone says 1 gallon batches are a waste, but it's the limitations of my equipment and budget at this specific time. What should the hop bill look like? I can break down the grain bill but I know hops change in smaller batches
 
GeorgiaMead said:
I know everyone says 1 gallon batches are a waste, but it's the limitations of my equipment and budget at this specific time. What should the hop bill look like? I can break down the grain bill but I know hops change in smaller batches
Click to expand...

I would scale your hops by batch size, just like the grain. My understanding is that hop amounts begin to vary significantly when you get into pro-size batches (multi-BBLs); i.e. pro brewers have an increase in utilization.

"Kettle geometry. Larger kettles are more efficient, and the difference between
a five-gallon homebrew system and even a 10-barrel (310-gallon) commercial
brewery is startling." (For the Love of Hops p. 188)

I don't think 1 gallon batches are a waste. Do what makes you comfortable and what you enjoy. I personally think it's a great way to try a much larger variety of beer and more opportunity to experiment with batches.
 
Just finished an 11 gallon batch. Hit my numbers. Should be good in a month or so.
 
Just finished brewing the extract version today. I was lucky that the LBH had everything I needed (all the hops). Smelled great, and damn tasty too. If all goes well, this will be a New Years Beer!

From start to finish!

2013-12-08 14.51.34.jpg


2013-12-08 17.28.00.jpg
 
Just cracked my first bottle of this. Bottled it on Sunday and I just couldn't wait anymore.

It's still a bit hazy, green, and definitely uncarbonated, but damn this beer is a winner. Thanks Yooper!
 
Hi! I made a 5gal AG batch of this using New Zealand-grown hop pellets. I replaced amarillo/simcoe with Pacific Jade and Centennial, threw in a bit of warrior and pac. jade just before flameout and dry hopped with NZ cascade and pac jade. Delicious. Thanks very much for the recipe!
 
I'm going to try brewing this one up. Two questions though...it seems the original has a 1.060 OG vs 1.070? DFH claims 1.060 6% and 60 minutes of hopping...does this beer taste bigger than dfh60? Also DFH says it has Palisades in it too...anyone try that?
 
I haven't tried making the DFH60 with Palisades but I wouldn't recommend it. The 60 was much better 3-4 years ago when they were still using Amarillo. Still good now, just seems like a "lighter" version.
 
My first two attempts used Amarillo, but I'm going to try brewing it with Palisades next time. The OG you shoot for will depend on the yeast you use in order to end up with a 6% ABV result. My recipe produces an OG of 1.061 or so, and usually attenuates down to 1.012 for a final ABV of 6.2 +/- using a California Ale Yeast (WLP001) or Safale US-05.
 
KozHops said:
I haven't tried making the DFH60 with Palisades but I wouldn't recommend it. The 60 was much better 3-4 years ago when they were still using Amarillo. Still good now, just seems like a "lighter" version.
Click to expand...

ahhhh...makes sense now. BTW do you try to brew it to hit 6% ABV, or just 1.070 as the recipe calls for?
 
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1389223002.636120.jpg it's a little light but it taste great, one if my best brewed beers... Might have to bump this up to a full size 5 gallon batch...
 
Now that I'm on my 3rd beer seems to have a little but more grapefruit flavor than I remember the original having
 

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