Easy Stove-Top Pasteurizing - With Pics

So easy. Just finished two cases - 48 bottles of Apple-cranberry Cider.

But, I forgot to turn off the heat on my last six bottles. The temp never got over 190-200 deg. but the bottle temp was
definitely higher when done. No explosions but I'm interested to see if they are any different in taste or appearance.

Bottled a batch last night that I did a little differently than described in this thread, but will still pasteurize it. 3 gallons of store bought apple juice, pectic enzyme and Nottingham yeast, let it ferment out to dry. Than rack to bottling bucket with 1/2 gallon store bought apple juice and 1/2 gallon raspberry juice and bottle. I'll check carbonation tonight, tomorrow, etc. and then pasteurize. Non-carbonated and room temperature, it was good - apple cider with a nice raspberry aroma and flavor to it. I'll update after its carbonated and pasteurized.

Sounds great, Pappers!

MeadWitch said:

Sounds great, Pappers!

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Hi MW! Its been a long time, nice to see you!

Bottle pasteurized the new batch of cider on Saturday. Heat Wave Cider is a semi-sweet, sparkling apple cider made with 12 percent raspberrry juice. Poured in a glass, Heat Wave has an appealing raspberry aroma. When you drink it, the raspberries give a balancing tartness and structure to the cider. http://www.singingboysbrewing.com/Heat-Wave-Cider.html

Hello,
I´m new to the forum, and have just started making cider this year. I´m currently on my 3rd batch, and getting better results each time, thanks to what I´ve learned from this forum.
Your stove top pasteurization technique is great! I used it in my last batch and was quite pleased with the results.
I have a question regarding the sugar amount you used for both bottled carbonation and back sweetening. I´m concerned that if I let my bottles carbonate for a week, that the yeast may consume all of the sugar rather than just part of it for carbonation. I say this because in one of my batches, at the beginning of fermentation(before racking to bottle), the gravity went down about 30 gravity points in only a few days. This same rate won´t occur in the bottle? In other words, how do you plan for how much sugar will remain for sweetness during the bottle carbonation phase? Sorry if this is a newbie question, but I haven´t been able to find the answer to this.
Thanks again for the great thread!

fir-Mint said:

I´m concerned that if I let my bottles carbonate for a week, that the yeast may consume all of the sugar rather than just part of it for carbonation. I say this because in one of my batches, at the beginning of fermentation(before racking to bottle), the gravity went down about 30 gravity points in only a few days. This same rate won´t occur in the bottle? In other words, how do you plan for how much sugar will remain for sweetness during the bottle carbonation phase? Sorry if this is a newbie question, but I haven´t been able to find the answer to this.
Thanks again for the great thread!

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By getting the cider off the yeast cake you slow things down quite a bit. But I think its always worth using a plastic soda bottle to judge carbonation rather than guessing. Safer that way too.

Agreed with the highly sophisticated plastic bottle carbonation checker.

It is never a bad idea in general, no matter if you're brewing cider or beer, but for a cider you plan on pasteurizing it is almost a necessity.

The rate of carbonation (which is, of course, per act of fermentation) will be affected by a few variables. Temperature is probably the most variable from homebrewer to homebrewer, thus the average given by your recipe may not reflect the adequate time required. To avoid over carbonating and possible bombs, use this technique.

I blew up 2 cases this past Fall (don't be too scared of bombs, I'm just an idiot and let them carb for way too long in way too high of temps). Hooray for me...

I have a few questions.

What is the typical bottles that are used for ciders? I wanted to use typical 750 ml wine bottles with corks, but that doesn't seem like the norm for ciders? Plus I assume you can't pasteurize corked bottles, or am i wrong?

From what Ive heard the reason wine bottles arent used is because they are weaker then beer bottles, as they are not made to hold carbonated liquids, so they limit you that way. If you want a still cider, I think they would be fine, but they are more prone to bursting from carbonation.

CollegeCider said:

From what Ive heard the reason wine bottles arent used is because they are weaker then beer bottles, as they are not made to hold carbonated liquids, so they limit you that way. If you want a still cider, I think they would be fine, but they are more prone to bursting from carbonation.

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Oh I see. The reason I ask is because I like the classy look of a wine bottle + cork as opposed to a beer and cap set up.

Does anyone know if this method works well with Edwort's apfelwein? I'm making a 5 gallon batch of it right now and from what I understand, it is supposed to be a relatively dry cider. If I'm looking for a carbonated, semi-sweet version, how would I go about doing this?

I'm glad I didn't start a new thread:cross:Because my question fits with irchowi.
If I rack and cold crash for a couple weeks and then bottle, and put the bottles down where it's cooler with a tester pop bottle and if they aren't buidling pressure, can I expect just a lil carbing from stovetop? I'm sure it would be safer and not as carbed. But kinda curious if it will carb up lightly/safely and heck, maybe irchowi's wine bottles with corks could handle the moderate pressure?

Yeah about the testing bottle. The idea is to bottle some of the cider in regular plastic bottles and then open them periodically until one of them reaches the desired level of carbonation? And when that happens it's safe to assume that the cider that's properly bottled with a beer and cap setup will have the same desired carbonation and we can begin pasteurization?

I'm assuming when you prime the cider with sugar, the amount of sugar is meant for both carbonation and sweetness and the ratio of carb to sweetness is decided on when you stop fermentation in the bottles? I've been seeing some say 3/4 cup of corn sugar per 5 gallons. What can I expect with this?

Forgot to add that I like to carefully do my first rack/coldcrash at 1.015-1.020 and let it clear more while cold. Almost seems that my high-flocculating ale yeasts that I like to use are almost all gone come bottling time since they're taking awhile to carb up in the basement. Plus not adding any chems nor even backsweetening keeps it simple.

I'm wondering if my "lightly" carbed bottles get a little "more" carbed from the pressure/heat in the end. I love my 1L swingtops that work awesome in my fridge, but not ideal for stovetop. Which is why I simply haven't haven't tried it. Just curious if the carb level bumps up after the stovetop past.

Can you stovetop pasteurize PET plastic bottles?

mcevoy said:

Can you stovetop pasteurize PET plastic bottles?

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From what I understand, the PET Better Bottles (I'm guessing that is what you are referring to) are rated to 60°C (140°F). Which I believe is too low for pasteurizing. Anyone else?

mcevoy said:

Can you stovetop pasteurize PET plastic bottles?

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I believe he is referring to the soda bottle-type. Like the kind that accompany a Mr. Beer setup. Regardless, typical PET has a glass transition temp ranging from about 60 to 80 C (140 - 178 F) depending upon the process used to create the bottle. Above this temp the bottles can soften and begin to fail. I would avoid heating them above this temp if they are already pressurized. You might get away with using a slightly lower temp for a longer period of time, but I have never tried it.

I read some people pasteurize in their oven instead of the stovetop method. Oven sounds safer, better to control 190 degree temp, and easier since I don't have a larger pot. Any thoughts? Pasteurizating this weekend for the first time this weekend. Wish me luck !

Vox said:

I read some people pasteurize in their oven instead of the stovetop method. Oven sounds safer, better to control 190 degree temp, and easier since I don't have a larger pot. Any thoughts? Pasteurizating this weekend for the first time this weekend. Wish me luck !

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Personally, I consider the stovetop a safer method. If you do have a bottle blow, the water will go a long way to absorbing much of the energy, slowing down the potential shrapnel. In addition, most of the "damage" will be confined to the pot. Although the oven provides a strong physical barrier between you and the "bomb," my oven has a glass window in the front and with my luck this would be cracked or broken. This would make SWMBO extremely irritable...certainly not a safe situation.

That, and 190 deg air, will not change the internal temp of the cider as quickly as 190 deg water. Think about it, I'd sit in a 190 deg sauna, but not a 190 deg hot tub.

There's a nice hybrid option in the form of a turkey roaster full of water. Put the bottles in that water, put the turkey roaster on a temp controller with the temp probe in either the water or an open "control" bottle and you've got fine-grained control of the temp, a water bath, etc.

I'm using this to do pasteurization at lower temps for longer while still having complete control over the process.

I use my wife's pasta pan and put the top on it. I drop a thermometer thru the vent hole to keep an eye on temp. If there is a blow up there's only a narrow window of danger.

chemdoc said:

Personally, I consider the stovetop a safer method. If you do have a bottle blow, the water will go a long way to absorbing much of the energy, slowing down the potential shrapnel. In addition, most of the "damage" will be confined to the pot. Although the oven provides a strong physical barrier between you and the "bomb," my oven has a glass window in the front and with my luck this would be cracked or broken. This would make SWMBO extremely irritable...certainly not a safe situation.

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Lol. I only have a medium sized pot though that can maybe handle eight bottles at a time at most. Could put a bunch in the stove. Are explosions that common during this process? My stove has a glass door as well. What does SWMBO stand for? Some significant other reference no doubt.

Vox said:

Lol. I only have a medium sized pot though that can maybe handle eight bottles at a time at most. Could put a bunch in the stove. Are explosions that common during this process? My stove has a glass door as well. What does SWMBO stand for? Some significant other reference no doubt.

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SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed (the wife-person or other type) Not smart to anger them with an unforeseen consequence of your hobby.
I have never had a problem with explosions, but the potential is there. Others have not been so lucky. I work with potentially explosive and hazardous things all day long, and I still get a little freaked out every time I put the first batch into the water. Just make sure to test one of the bottles by opening it prior to heating the batch. If the bottle gushes liquid all over the place, you have waited too long and shouldn't risk it. Hope all goes well for you.

Only bottled yesterday and the plastic test bottle still has some flex. Will open a bottle tomorrow to test it. Not sure what I'm looking for, but I guess the sound of carbonation when opening and bubbles when poured. Do I need to chill it before opening or does it not matter?

The directions say to allow them to cool to room temperature then chill and enjoy. If you aren't going to drink them right away, I gather I just store them at room temp til I plan to drink them?

I'm thinking most people drink cider cold, as with most beverages. But cold or not shouldn't have any effect on the carbonation.

Vox said:

The directions say to allow them to cool to room temperature then chill and enjoy. If you aren't going to drink them right away, I gather I just store them at room temp til I plan to drink them?

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Yes, that's what I meant.

Are they ready to pasteurize when the test plastic bottle is fairly firm or totally firm? Bottled the night before last and the test bottle is fairly firm.

Hey guys (off topic), I searched this thread a bit and didn't find too many people having problems with very (I mean VERY) fast carbonation. I don't know how in the world you can let your bottles with active yeast sit at room temperature for a week without exploding! Here's my process: Ferment cider down to 1.010 which takes 3-4 days, put the whole carboy in the fridge, wait for yeast to settle down for a day or two, rack to bottling bucket, fill bottles, cap, let sit out on the counter at about 77 degrees to warm up. I bottled some using this procedure this morning and they were sitting out for 7 hours, and I opened one just to be safe, and it spewed a raging foam! So I degassed them, and re-capped and I'm only going to let them sit 2 hours and then check one. But I wrote this to warn you that your carbonation could take a week like Pappers, or it could be done in 2 hours like mine. There are a lot of variables I guess. I learned to check carbonation very soon last year when I let my bottles carb for 48 hours, and I opened one and it shot like a gyser across the kitchen. Swmbo was NOT happy, and I was more afraid of her than the rest of the bottles that could've exploded any second.

Great thread. Thanks.

I would like more information on the statement in the original post. It said to rack to bottling bucket along with priming solution. What is the priming solution? I have been pressing my juice for about a month and then freezing it until I get 6 gallons. I plan to use a little potassium metabisulphite to weaken the wild yeast. I then plan to add a good yeast to the bucket. I am looking to use Safale S-04.

I am looking for about 7% abv so I will check my hydrometer until I get to the right point. At that time I plan to rack to a secondary fermentation in my carboy. At this time do I do anything to kill the remaining yeast? I do have a refrigerator big enough to handle the carboy but I don't really want to transport the cider from the house down to the barn where the fridge is located.

I would prefer a semi-dry, slightly sweet carbonated cider in my bottles.

Could anybody on here give me the directions to get to the point where the originator of this thread was when he decided to pasteurize in the kitchen?

Thanks. Great thread.

So I have been following this post for a little
While now with the intention of using this method with my first cider. I am waiting on it to carb up right now and am going to open my first bottle to see if it's ready. My question: if I open the bottle and its not carbed up enough can I re-seal it or is it a goner? I am new with it all and I have been wondering this one for awhile cause I don't want to waste any.

Any way I can bottle in a 1 gallon glass carboy? or should I split between 1 liter bottles?

What I do is use juice, add pectic enzyme, and Nottingham yeast. Lately, I've been letting it ferment out, to dry, then backsweeten with more juice at bottling. Approximately 1gallon of juice to three gallons of fermented cider. Then check the bottles as they carbonate and pasteurize when ready. Does this help or am I misunderstanding your question?

UncaMarc said:

I would like more information on the statement in the original post. It said to rack to bottling bucket along with priming solution. What is the priming solution? I have been pressing my juice for about a month and then freezing it until I get 6 gallons. I plan to use a little potassium metabisulphite to weaken the wild yeast. I then plan to add a good yeast to the bucket. I am looking to use Safale S-04.

I am looking for about 7% abv so I will check my hydrometer until I get to the right point. At that time I plan to rack to a secondary fermentation in my carboy. At this time do I do anything to kill the remaining yeast? I do have a refrigerator big enough to handle the carboy but I don't really want to transport the cider from the house down to the barn where the fridge is located.

I would prefer a semi-dry, slightly sweet carbonated cider in my bottles.

Could anybody on here give me the directions to get to the point where the originator of this thread was when he decided to pasteurize in the kitchen?

Thanks. Great thread.

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candice said:

So I have been following this post for a little
While now with the intention of using this method with my first cider. I am waiting on it to carb up right now and am going to open my first bottle to see if it's ready. My question: if I open the bottle and its not carbed up enough can I re-seal it or is it a goner? I am new with it all and I have been wondering this one for awhile cause I don't want to waste any.

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I pour it over ice and drink it - no waste!

Evilswine said:

Any way I can bottle in a 1 gallon glass carboy? or should I split between 1 liter bottles?

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If you are making still (non carbonated) cider then a gallon wine jug would be fine. If its carbonated you need to use a bottle designed for that, like beer bottles or sparkling wine bottles.

I have no insight into trying to pasteurize a gallon or literal container of cider - I do it in 12 oz bottles.

candice said:

So I have been following this post for a little
While now with the intention of using this method with my first cider. I am waiting on it to carb up right now and am going to open my first bottle to see if it's ready. My question: if I open the bottle and its not carbed up enough can I re-seal it or is it a goner? I am new with it all and I have been wondering this one for awhile cause I don't want to waste any.

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you can recap, I do it all the time. I pop the cap and see if the liquid bubbles. If it does not I recap the bottle with a sterilized cap and put the date on the lid. I repeat this process, every couple days popping an un-dated cap until I have the desired co2 level. By recapping them I can allow them all to carbonate rather than drinking half of my cider before it carbonates.

I have heard two objections to recapping. The first is by popping the cap you are letting all the co2 out, but this simply is not the case. Yes some if it is escaping, but it is just like a bottle of pop, once you open it, if you re cap it the next time you open it there should still be co2 in it plus the yeast will continue to add more CO2 until you pasteurize. The second objection I often here is that by opening the bottle you run the risk of contaminating the beverage. There is a slight truth to this BUT because the bottle is destin to be pasteurized any contaminating microbe is going to be killed so it is really not an issue.

Something I learned the hard way:

One method to make sure your carbonation is going properly is to fill a small plastic bottle with brew. When this bottle is hard from CO2 your brew is carbonated. HOWEVER... If the cider, beer, etc. In the bottling bucket or final jug is not well racked and evenly mixed, then you run the risk of bits of your lees getting into either the plastic test bottle and giving you a false early positive on carbonation, or one of your glass bottles making a secret bottle bomb.

I checked my test bottle and it was tight, and fizzy when opened- after pasteurization I realized that all my bottles were basically still. Should have popped a cap first!