American Pale Ale Da Yooper's House Pale Ale

Yakima 728
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I just added my dry-hop addition to this (after 2 weeeks in the carboy). The sample was at 1.010 and tasted stellar. Nice work Yopper! I will be brewing this again in 2 weeks!
 
WestCoastHopper said:
I just added my dry-hop addition to this (after 2 weeeks in the carboy). The sample was at 1.010 and tasted stellar. Nice work Yopper! I will be brewing this again in 2 weeks!
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You know, I haven't made this lately. That's for reminding me of how much I like it! I have my "brewing list" and an IPA is next, but I might have to exchange that for my House Pale Ale!
 
I bottled mine last week and of course, had to give it a try when I was brewing Saturday. It was under carbbed as expected, but holy cow, it was amazing! A fantastic hop nose, crystal clear and perfectly balanced. SWMBO, a SNPA fan, was thouroughly impressed. What a great beer! I think I'm going to have keep this on hand...

Thanks for the recipe, Yooper
 
I make a recipe that is nearly identical to this... Definitely a house favorite. I've killed a 5 gallon keg by myself in 10 days before. I always have some on hand now. I make my version in 10 gallon batches, but I know a guy who makes a very similar recipe in 21 gallon batches.
 
I am going to use this recipe as my first try at a 10 gallon batch. I think I will use centennial as the first and second bittering additions and cascade as the last two additions plus dry hopping. The ibu's will only be at 34 so I hope it is enough. I am not a real hop-head though I do like some bitterness. Hoping everything runs smooth and it turns out great.
 
I'm about to take my stab at this. LHBS only had 2 oz of Cascade's though. Still a bit of a noob, so I was hesitant to change things on the fly.

I've heard so much about Simcoe, I thought I'd give that a shot. I have 2oz of the Cascade, 2oz of 12% Simcoe and about a half oz of Centennial at home.

I'm just going to play around in Beersmith to get the IBUs close. Anyone have any experience with Simcoe in this one? How about suggestions on which to use to dry hop?
 
Also, I though FWHing was supposed to take from the aroma/finishing hops without upping the IBUs much, but Beersmith calculates it almost like a bittering charge.
 
Dixon said:
How much of a difference will using 1056 make in this?
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Not totally sure. It shouldn't be too different, 1056 is pretty clean. I'm planning to ferment around 62, so it should bring out a bit more of the citrus from the yeast to go with the hops.

I just mashed in right at 154 on this. I'm hoping for a good one here!
 
BlackOakBrewer said:
Also, I though FWHing was supposed to take from the aroma/finishing hops without upping the IBUs much, but Beersmith calculates it almost like a bittering charge.
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FWH does impact the IBUs, after all, the hops are left in there for the whole boil! I figure it as a 60 minute boil addition, but the taste is a bit "smoother".

1056 will be fine in this!
 
Yooper said:
FWH does impact the IBUs, after all, the hops are left in there for the whole boil! I figure it as a 60 minute boil addition, but the taste is a bit "smoother".

1056 will be fine in this!
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Thanks Yooper!

I'll let you know how it turns out. Decided against the FWH and the 30 minute addition. Going with more late additions instead.
 
[QUOTE="Yooper"

1056 will be fine in this![/QUOTE]

Thanks yooper! Brewing up 10 gallons tomorrow.

Btw. I cracked a couple of my first ever brew I did back in March- your DFH 60 clone. Freaking delicious still today!
 
Dixon said:
What's everyone's typical OG with this. Brewed 10 gallons tonight and got 1.052.
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Mine came in at 1.052 last night too. I'm still dialing my system in, so I only got about 62% efficiency.

The 1056 is bubbling away at 63F in the ferm chamber now. Looking forward to this one in a few weeks!
 
This is going to be my next batch, as soon as I can clear out the fermenter. I downloaded the beersmith file and it has an estimated FG of 1.017, apparently high for an American pale ale and higher than the original post which indicated 1.010. Any idea on what I might be missing?
 
MichaelBrock said:
This is going to be my next batch, as soon as I can clear out the fermenter. I downloaded the beersmith file and it has an estimated FG of 1.017, apparently high for an American pale ale and higher than the original post which indicated 1.010. Any idea on what I might be missing?
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Beersmith isn't very good at predicting an actual FG. It just gives you a percentage of the OG. If you mash as directed, and use an attenuative yeast strain, it won't stop as high as 1.017.
 
Is it possible for this to be about done with primary fermentation after 3 days??? I had crazy bubbling the first 2 days but now there's nothing. I know to check gravity too make sure, but I'm gonna let it sit for the two weeks before cracking open the buckets. Never had a brew stop bubbling so fast.
 
It is definitely possible that the fermentation could be done after 3 days. One of the last issues of byo had an article on that actually.

Sent from my Droid using Home Brew Talk
 
I never got around to brewing this! Too many beers, not enough time.

I think I will make a batch of this and use the WLP099 yeast and see what happens. Might need to fudge the mash a bit to compensate.

Then if I'm lucky I can pitch most of the yeast cake and wash the rest and try my hand at freezing it for later.
 
So I brewed this 10 days ago and for the most part my basement has sat around 67-68 degrees. I'm fairly sure that it's finished however I'm not checking for a couple more days when I plan to dryhop. Anyway we've had a cold snap and my basement has dropped to around 64. Do I need to worry about the yeasties stopping their work if they are in fact still working?
 
Dixon said:
So I brewed this 10 days ago and for the most part my basement has sat around 67-68 degrees. I'm fairly sure that it's finished however I'm not checking for a couple more days when I plan to dryhop. Anyway we've had a cold snap and my basement has dropped to around 64. Do I need to worry about the yeasties stopping their work if they are in fact still working?
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I brew all my ales (1056/1272/05/Notty), even Da Yooper's, at 62 and they have been absolutely wonderful.
 
Just finished this and poured the first glass, it is good but im getting a very harsh bitterness on the end. The beer does not taste smooth to me. Very malty up front and harsh hop finish. I suppose it is just green. Any thoughts?
 
I'm thinking I should of FWH and I still need to let it set for a while. We will see where it goes!
 
Been on my bucket list for some time. Brewed this a couple of months ago. Followed the recipe to the tee. Dryhopped in the keg and carbed in the basement for three weeks before I had an opening in the keezer. Wow. Very nice beer Yoop. Perfect pale ale. Thanks!!
 
A friend of mine gave me 8 oz of local grown lose leaf cascade hops and i was thinking of using these for this recipe? Any recommendations on how I should adjust the amount of leaf hops instead of using pellets? I don't know the AA% but I suspect it is lower than the typical 6.1% since these were stored in his fridge instead of freezer and were not vacumm sealed.
 
msa8967 said:
A friend of mine gave me 8 oz of local grown lose leaf cascade hops and i was thinking of using these for this recipe? Any recommendations on how I should adjust the amount of leaf hops instead of using pellets? I don't know the AA% but I suspect it is lower than the typical 6.1% since these were stored in his fridge instead of freezer and were not vacumm sealed.
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I think there are some threads about using 'fresh' hops - those would be a better place to look. Also, I had found some information via my friend Google in the past. From what I remember, it's a little bit different and you'll get some different aromas from the fresh stuff.
 
We made this yesterday. We did a double sized (10 gallon batch) and used commercial hops for bittering, but we used my homegrown hops for flavor and aroma additions. I almost never use my homegrown for bittering, as I have no idea how to begin to calculate the IBUs, but they are great for flavor and aroma and dryhopping.
 
Yooper,

I have had great success with your recipes in the past so I plan to make a special order just to have enough cascade on hand to brew this recipe once we get enough snow for me to use to cool/chill the wort with my snow/water slush method since it is too cold to run my garden hose to my chiller.

So should I use packaged pellet hops for the first two additions or the first three additions? Thanks for getting back to me.
 
msa8967 said:
Yooper,

I have had great success with your recipes in the past so I plan to make a special order just to have enough cascade on hand to brew this recipe once we get enough snow for me to use to cool/chill the wort with my snow/water slush method since it is too cold to run my garden hose to my chiller.

So should I use packaged pellet hops for the first two additions or the first three additions? Thanks for getting back to me.
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I'd probably use homegrown for only the last two additions (and possibly dryhopping) if they smell great and fresh.
 
I am really enjoying a variation on this, which I have called 3 Kings, and it is pretty simple

5 lbs Pale
4 lbs Vienna
3 lbs Munich

** NO Crystal - I may add some next batch)

Tetnanger hops (3 oz total)

WLP001

1.054 OG 1.010 FG

I think the Crystal will add some sweetness, thinking 0.5 lbs
 
msa8967 said:
What could you replace the crystal with to help give the beer some body without greatly changing the flavor profile or adding too much sweetness? Carapils? Flaked wheat?
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I was thinking a bit (1/2 lb) of bavarian wheat DME - what do you think?
 
So I tacked on an extra pound of MO because I plan to BIAB this beer, but beercalculus only gives me an estimated OG of 1.039 even with the exra MO. Any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong (efficiency on beer calculus is estimating 75% efficiency, which I don't expect to get).

Edit: I guess this is just a difference between the free beercalculus and beersmith. I downloaded the beersmith trial and everything seems to check out. If my efficiency is 65% with the extra pound of MO, my OG should be right on. If not, then I can DME or top up to make more beer!
 
daksin said:
So I tacked on an extra pound of MO because I plan to BIAB this beer, but beercalculus only gives me an estimated OG of 1.039 even with the exra MO. Any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong (efficiency on beer calculus is estimating 75% efficiency, which I don't expect to get).

Edit: I guess this is just a difference between the free beercalculus and beersmith. I downloaded the beersmith trial and everything seems to check out. If my efficiency is 65% with the extra pound of MO, my OG should be right on. If not, then I can DME or top up to make more beer!
Click to expand...

I've found I get better eff with BIAB than 75%, but I always squeeze my sack.

That never gets old
 
HItransplant said:
I've found I get better eff with BIAB than 75%, but I always squeeze my sack.

That never gets old
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It never does:D

Anyway, you're absolutely right- I could have gone without the extra pound. Hit ~80% efficiency and so my OG was high- around 1.066. I'm going to add a half gallon of water when I get home from work- still in the lag right now so I think it should be fine. Excited to taste this beer.
 
What can I replace the Crystal 20L with? I can get 40-60L but not 20. Could I use a smaller amount of 40L, or some Caraamber?
 

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