Wiring a 220 LWD Heating element run at 110

SSBrew - 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
southpawbrew

southpawbrew

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
137
Reaction score
2
Location
Cen Coast Cali
I was wiring up my new tri-clover RIMS from Brewer's Hardware and I changed from a LWD 110 heating element to a LWD 220 element that I am running on 110. I built a control box straight copied from Boerderij_Kabouter click here to see it

The weird problem that came up was the PID reads say 70 then when I have the element off then when I switch on the element it will drop instantly to say 51. Nothing else changed. I went through the box to make sure nothing was out of place.

Any suggestions on where I should check or changes in the wiring I need to do?
 
sounds like a grounding issue with your thermocouple or at least some type of interference is being created when power. Did it you have this up and running with the original element in place?
 
Note that he is using an RTD, not a plain ol' 2-wire thermocouple. There is a difference between the wiring that you have to consider if you aren't using an RTD.
 
Yeah I should have noted the use of the rtd. One difference i didn't think about in the op is: On the new rims tube there is a ground post right on the tube. I wired ground to the post then put a jumper from the ground post to a stainless nut and bolt on the box. Problem? Better way?
 
southpawbrew said:
Yeah I should have noted the use of the rtd. One difference i didn't think about in the op is: On the new rims tube there is a ground post right on the tube. I wired ground to the post then put a jumper from the ground post to a stainless nut and bolt on the box. Problem? Better way?
Click to expand...

I would make sure that there is an actual ground conductor from your incoming power also terminated under the same SS nut on your box. I don't like relying on an enclosure as part of the ground circuit. It should be grounded, yes. But not "in series" like earth ground terminating at point "A" on the box, then another device getting its ground connection from point "B" on the box.... I don't know if that makes any sense or not.
 
Reset the connections on the RTD today and bingo no temp reading jumps. One of the connections on the RTD must not have been fully set. Not sure why giving power to element made it jump up and then down when the switch was turned off. But tt's up and running now and best not to ask to many questions. As long as it doesn't repeat.

After a few more things are finished I post a thread on the build showing the box and the incredible tri-clover rims tube from Derrin at Brewer's Hardware. His craftsmanship is superb. It really is the sweetest part of my brew rig now.
 
southpawbrew said:
Reset the connections on the RTD today and bingo no temp reading jumps. One of the connections on the RTD must not have been fully set. Not sure why giving power to element made it jump up and then down when the switch was turned off. But tt's up and running now and best not to ask to many questions. As long as it doesn't repeat.

After a few more things are finished I post a thread on the build showing the box and the incredible tri-clover rims tube from Derrin at Brewer's Hardware. His craftsmanship is superb. It really is the sweetest part of my brew rig now.
Click to expand...

I'm really interested in that RIMs tube. Did you pattern yours after any other build thread here? Please get some notes and pics on that specifically if you don't mind. Thanks.

[edit] woops, just went back and saw B_K did a rims as well.
 
passedpawn said:
I'm really interested in that RIMs tube. Did you pattern yours after any other build thread here? Please get some notes and pics on that specifically if you don't mind. Thanks.

[edit] woops, just went back and saw B_K did a rims as well.
Click to expand...

My original intention was to attach it directly to the control box. But with the ability to break the tri-clover down and thoroughly clean it I now have a space for it in front of the box. The weight and tri-clover clamps themselves keep it in place pretty well. This is just a low quality shot of the box and rims tube. When I get it all dialed in I'll put up a full thread with pics, notes and such.

i_2010081315470682.jpg
 
Exactly the thermowell is a tri-clover at the opposite end from the element tri-clover. You can see the rtd going into the thermowell in the pic above.
 

Similar threads

B
eBIAB PID Controller Wiring Diagram - Feedback Requested
Replies
14
Views
1K
beerisambrosia
B
Sean_SA
Issues calibrating Inkbird ITC106VH
Replies
2
Views
350
Deadalus
Deadalus
Nick Poggetti
Heating Element Scorching - Long boils w/ High OG Wort
Replies
25
Views
1K
Nick Poggetti
Nick Poggetti
ALAN C
Need help to confirm wiring .
Replies
17
Views
2K
ALAN C
ALAN C
Lollim96
Can someone please explain AG brewing in mash tune that don’t have elements? Like cooler tuns?
Replies
13
Views
1K
marx2k
M
InkBird 300

Latest posts

Back
Top