Two 2000w on 120v 50amp Circuit?

I have 50am 120v service in my garage. I brew all grain (single vessel BIAB) so my pre-boil volume is about 7 to 7.5 gallons.

For a variety of reasons I want to switch to electric. I'm aware of the spa panel option but would prefer to stick with 120v service.

Would it be possible to:
1. Run extension to project box with two switched outlet supporting two 2000w elements.
2. Add a third switched outlet to the same box to support a pump.

I plan on firing both elements to get up to boil while running one for mash and rolling boil.

Thanks in advance, you guys are a great resource!

Yes.

4000w / 120v = 33.3 amps

33 amps is < 50 amps

audger said:

4000w / 120v = 33.3 amps

33 amps is < 50 amps

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I run the rig above on two 20amp 120v circuits.

I'm just curious why you would want to stick with 120v? I'm guessing it's because you only have a black/white/bare cable running out there. It's just that you can get so much more power out of a 240v conversion.

Bobby_M said:

I'm just curious why you would want to stick with 120v? I'm guessing it's because you only have a black/white/bare cable running out there. It's just that you can get so much more power out of a 240v conversion.

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For me, it's just not worth the investment right now. I would have to add a 240v GFCI breaker to the box, add an outlet, redo my keggles to take the 5500watt elements, and add controls (which would mean automation, if I do it, I'll do it right).

Probably at least $200, plus the time. Just to trim 20 to 30 minutes off the brew day.

Frankly, my two 2000watt element, manually controlled rig works fine. For now.

I'm in the same boat regarding the choice to stick with 120v. This will be an easy/fun/cheap project.

Homedepot sells the Camco 2000 watt elements. They are probably high density.

Do you think this could cause scorching?

Thanks!

Cpt_Kirks said:

For me, it's just not worth the investment right now. I would have to add a 240v GFCI breaker to the box, add an outlet, redo my keggles to take the 5500watt elements, and add controls (which would mean automation, if I do it, I'll do it right).

Probably at least $200, plus the time. Just to trim 20 to 30 minutes off the brew day.

Frankly, my two 2000watt element, manually controlled rig works fine. For now.

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Do you have a thread that shows the specifics for your build?

seatbelt123 said:

Homedepot sells the Camco 2000 watt elements. They are probably high density.

Do you think this could cause scorching?

Thanks!

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High Density elements scorching wort has been pretty much debunked as a myth. It simply does not seem to happen in the BK.

Now, high density elements will scorch the mash. Grain even sticks to the elements and burns, I have had that happen.

lzrdkng14 said:

Do you have a thread that shows the specifics for your build?

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Those pictures are about it. I can answer any questions you have.

Cpt_Kirks said:

High Density elements scorching wort has been pretty much debunked as a myth. It simply does not seem to happen in the BK.

Now, high density elements will scorch the mash. Grain even sticks to the elements and burns, I have had that happen.

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Awesome! Thanks for the help. Time to go shopping and building.

I'll try to provide updates.

I use 2x 2000 w elements from HD. I think they were $11. Only scorched once when I didn't turn off heaters and added DME. Even so it didn't effect taste. The think the scorching scare was started by people not trying actually use electric heating.

bigdongsr94 said:

I use 2x 2000 w elements from HD. I think they were $11. Only scorched once when I didn't turn off heaters and added DME. Even so it didn't effect taste. The think the scorching scare was started by people not trying actually use electric heating.

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Yeah, just like using gas, you want to turn off the heat when you add extract.

I had a time getting some LME off the tip of an element once.

What I think happened with the "scorching scare" was people saying not to use HD elements in the mash, and somebody took that to mean in the boil.