TJTHEBEST's E-BIAB Build!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Possibly changing directions. After the whole 3/4 wire dryer debacle ive decided that maybe i should try a little bit safer of a way to do this.

I discovered i have one of those breakers that is a 20 amp breaker but has 2 of those switches on it. as shown in the picture with the breaker labeled service outlet.
IMG_20121211_172841.jpg


This feeds two receptacles that are right next to each other. My question is: Can i use those 2 receptacles in order to build a control panel with (2) 2,000 watt elements? What im unsure of is if these are 2 separate circuits.

This would be the wiring diagram that i would like to follow.
auberinwiring1a42000wbi.jpg


What say you all?
 
You want to use two separate 20 amp GFCI circuits to feed your panel.
Try this:
* Pick one outlet
* Turn off the breaker for this outlet
* Find another outlet that is still powered on, this is on a different circuit.
 
Just ordered all my auberins stuff and bought most of what i need to build 2 heatsticks. Now i just need to figure out if i can wire in a timer the same way as my original plan.
 
TJ,

Was reading this with great interest...until you had to go the other route. Maybe you can answer a few questions I have. You said you were going to go the recirc route, had you considered a RIMS set-up? Or, did you find this unnecessary with the element in place in the kettle? Here is a question I am searching for an answer to...why do you need to have a power switch to the PID, why can't it be on 100% of the time? IF there is no power to the Contactor, via a switch who cares if it sends a signal to the SSR? Just wondering.
 
TJ,

Was reading this with great interest...until you had to go the other route. Maybe you can answer a few questions I have. You said you were going to go the recirc route, had you considered a RIMS set-up? Or, did you find this unnecessary with the element in place in the kettle? Here is a question I am searching for an answer to...why do you need to have a power switch to the PID, why can't it be on 100% of the time? IF there is no power to the Contactor, via a switch who cares if it sends a signal to the SSR? Just wondering.

I went with Recirc because its alot simpler than RIMS and does basically the same thing. The PID power switch is basically just a Unit on switch. Instead of it just turning on when i plug it in. This could be bad if you acidently plug it in while the elements are not in water.
 
P.J., if you're still following along, im trying to figure out how to add in a timer and the 3 way switch to the new diagram with the 2 elements. It seems to me, and i could be completely wrong, that there is several ways to wire in the timer/alarm/buzzer. It just seem like on the two diagrams that are up in this thread that you are using differing terminals.

If you could help me by updating the drawing with the 2 elements to add in a timer and a 3 way switch to switch between the timer alarm and PID alarm that would be great.
 
All my auberins stuff came. Well except for my emergency stop switch which i apparently forgot to order. I noticed that the EPO switch on the diagram i am using says to add another module switch box. My question is which one do i buy, an NO and/or NC?

thanks,

TJ
 
All my auberins stuff came. Well except for my emergency stop switch which i apparently forgot to order. I noticed that the EPO switch on the diagram i am using says to add another module switch box. My question is which one do i buy, an NO and/or NC?

thanks,

TJ

NO although i believe the Auber modual comes with NO and NC contacts

good luck
 
Well i drilled most of my holes and mounted the buttons and stuff on the front. Just need to dremel the square holes for the SSR's and heatsinks and figure out where to mount everything on the inside. Then its on to painting and wiring.

IMG_20130117_184902.jpg
 
It sure is tedious, but once you get going, it happens pretty quick. I like the paint job!

How are you wiring the timer in?
 
Well i finished all my wiring!!! Now i just need to troubleshoot my problems.

1. Element #1 does not fire. Must be some loose wiring somewhere between the ssr/contactor??

2. Element #2 Contactor is quite considerably louder than the other one. Might be a bad contactor??

Im getting my dads multi-meter tomorrow so i can check continuity throughout my system.


Everything else seemed to be working correctly!

IMG_20130126_191905.jpg
 
Hey TJ, the build is looking GOOD. Are those the switchcraft plug/receptacles? It looks like you have 4? Where do you have them going/coming from?

Corey
 
smittygouv30 said:
Hey TJ, the build is looking GOOD. Are those the switchcraft plug/receptacles? It looks like you have 4? Where do you have them going/coming from?

Corey

Halfway through his planning, he realized he couldn't do a 220V build. He changed gears and built two heatsticks pulling power from two separate circuits.

Soooo, he has two power feeds going into the panel and two lines going out to the kettle/heatsticks.

Hope that helps.
 
Halfway through his planning, he realized he couldn't do a 220V build. He changed gears and built two heatsticks pulling power from two separate circuits.

Soooo, he has two power feeds going into the panel and two lines going out to the kettle/heatsticks.

Hope that helps.

Exactly!
 
Well i believe that i have 2 faulty contactors... what are the odds? They both get 120 to the input side, both get 120 to the coil. One of them doesnt give power to the output side and one of them is really really loud.
 
Suyi is sending me 2 new contactors and also told me how to fix the noisy one but i just opted for a new one.
 
Suyi is sending me 2 new contactors and also told me how to fix the noisy one but i just opted for a new one.
Dang... makes me glad I got mine from eBrewSupply - they barely make any noise... Kinda surprised - all the Auber stuff I got seemed very good quality. It's nice that they are standing behind their products.
 
Ya its weird that this seems to happen so often with these contactors. they must be pretty sensitive or something.
 
Suyi's definitely great to work with. Highly recommended. I bought a lot of parts from him myself. If only everyone looked after their customers so well!

Kal
 
Well my new contactors got here!!! Though he did only send me 30A ones... I installed them anyways because i don't need that high of ones anyways. They work like a charm and are super quiet!!

Heating my water and doing an auto-tune as i type!
 
Well my first brew day went great! I brewed a black butte porter clone that ive been wanting to do forever.

Brew day went as planned. I did have a little bit of a problem when i was recirculating at first. I had the pump pretty much wide open and i ended up creating a vacuum. I couldnt even lift the bag out. So i just turned down the pump and it worked perfectly. I think because of this i ended up with almost a little scorching on my elements. It was basically just goo'd up and stuck on it. It didnt smell burnt or anything.

The one thing that i dont quite like about my build is the heatsticks. i realized that i cant really put the lid on tight. I believe that i would be able to heat faster and keep a little more heat in if my lid wasnt propped open the whole time.

Other than that i am super excited about it. It was my first brew with an electric brewery, first brew with a water filter, first brew with an oxygen system, and one of my first with a temp controlled fermentation. So basically im saying that i have high hopes for this beer. Lets hope i dont get dissapointed.

Edit: I believe i got 92% mash efficiency as well which seems really good..
 
Well I'm ready to transform my control panel back into the 220 30amp 5500 Watt element system. Just moved into a new house and got a 30 amp outlet installed!
 
Back
Top