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Thanks for sharing. I found one for 45 delivered. The rheostat is damaged, hover after taking it apart and a little solder in the right place, i am up and running. I don't have access to a sand blaster, however my grinder is working great. I'll post a picture when finished.
 
image-3608230456.jpg

Here it is finished
 
Update- too mush aeration so I went back to using the hose- Upgraded the hose in the Mash tun to a sparge arm today, works great. I was getting to the point with the hose that it was hard to tell/see if it was flowing or not, so I seen this from rabeb25 and it's very adjustable as well.
 
Castermmt,

What do you think of the Bayou Classic 82 quart kettles? I am considering using them for my electric rig as well.
 
Castermmt,

What do you think of the Bayou Classic 82 quart kettles? I am considering using them for my electric rig as well.

I love'em, they are very inexpensive ($150 delivered) in comparison to the Blichmann's ($400.) and do the same job. I have zero issue with them and would highly recommend them. You will need to add your own sight glass(brewhardware.com), other then that great kettle's. Castermmt
 
I have a nuova on the way, 11.00 shipped. It works but is in pretty bad shape paint wise. Any tips on dismantling it to repaint? Also, did you do the sandblasting yourself or did you send it out for work? I would have no idea where to take it or what a fair price is... any suggestions?
 
I have a nuova on the way, 11.00 shipped. It works but is in pretty bad shape paint wise. Any tips on dismantling it to repaint? Also, did you do the sandblasting yourself or did you send it out for work? I would have no idea where to take it or what a fair price is... any suggestions?

Most body shops have small sand blasters and would do it for a small fee, no more then $20. or a few beers. I was able to take mine to work (Large Steel Mill) and a buddy hooked me up. I just took it apart, pretty simple device when you look at it. Take a few pictures before removing any components and you should be good to go.
 
Upgraded the hose in the Mash tun to a sparge arm today, works great. I was getting to the point with the hose that it was hard to tell/see if it was flowing or not, so I seen this from rabeb25 and it's very adjustable as well.

Update, I have decided to reinstall my hose for Lautering and Sparging. Well after a few batches using this arm and reading the book "making better beer" by Gordon Strong, It does in fact introduce air to the mash which is not a good thing to do. Live and learn. Castermmt
 
First off - awesome build caster.
I'm starting to piece mine together over the next few months (mill and pumps arriving via sleigh).

Was wondering what you're using as the false bottom in the MLT of the Bayou Classic kettle?

I've no problem installing the site gauge and valves but not having a false bottom was leading towards more expensive options....
 
Thanks for the complement. I had it made by "adventures in home brewing". It was dead nuts a perfect fit of 16"(make sure you measure to be sure) and Jason was very helpful(must call for custom orders). I then used a few stainless steel drawer pulls on both the top and the bottom for spacing, all in under $100. I used it about 25 to 30 times and never had a stuck sparge.:ban: Hope this Helps, Castermmt

www.Homebrewing.org
 
Thanks for the complement. I had it made by "adventures in home brewing". It was dead nuts a perfect fit of 16"(make sure you measure to be sure) and Jason was very helpful(must call for custom orders). I then used a few stainless steel drawer pulls on both the top and the bottom for spacing, all in under $100. I used it about 25 to 30 times and never had a stuck sparge.:ban: Hope this Helps, Castermmt

www.Homebrewing.org

Definitely helps. Good to know and I'll most likely order the kettles and false bottoms from them all at once.

Thanks for the info.
 
Update*** a few month ago I had to change the can over to a non-coated can can and porcelain light socket. I was having some strange smell light heated plastic, in the camber it was the can and/or the plastic lamp holder heating up. All's good now.

Fermentation Can Heater
http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/Fermentation-Can-Heater

I just built one of these this morning (30 minutes total time). I replaced a small lamp with tinfoil over the bulb with this can heater. The lamp was working fine but was very cheap looking. I use a dual stage Love controller and just started using the 16 inch thermowell that enables me to put the temp probe in the center of the fermenting wort, which will give me better temperature accuracy and control. Hope this little tweak helps others brew better beer.
http://www.brewershardware.com/16-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html

Happy New Year, Castermmt

Fermentaion can heater.jpg
 
Fermentation Can Heater
http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/Fermentation-Can-Heater

I just built one of these this morning (30 minutes total time). I replaced a small lamp with tinfoil over the bulb with this can heater. The lamp was working fine but was very cheap looking. I use a dual stage Love controller and just started using the 16 inch thermowell that enables me to put the temp probe in the center of the fermenting wort, which will give me better temperature accuracy and control. Hope this little tweak helps others brew better beer.
http://www.brewershardware.com/16-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html

Happy New Year, Castermmt

Update***
After a few weeks using this can heater along with the Thermowell for the temp prob, my temperatures are dead nuts and hold for longer periods before the need for the heater or cooler turning on. So I'm sure I'm saving energy by minimizing temperature swings with this new setup. Castermmt
 
Very nice build. I like the drawer slides on the pumps so they can be pulled out for connections but pushed back out of the way so you aren't tripping over them.

Oh, and I think you need a larger CO2 tank or oxygen tank... ;)

I've added a few upgrades and want to update this thread!
#1. was I changed the configuration of my pumps. I wanted to have them higher then the fermentation buckets/carboys. I now have them on Ball Bearing slides and inverted under the bench top.

#2. I upgraded my Counter-flow chiller to the Convolutus counterflow chiller. It cools my wart twice as fast as my homemade one i used before. I also mounted it using the ball-bearing drawer slides.

#2. I changed my fermentation temp controller from the dual stage Love controller to the The Black Box sold http://www.blackboxbrew.com/ which uses the STC1000 plus firmware. It give me the ability to program in fermentation profiles. If your shooting for repeatable results, then process control is what you need. These things are sweet.

Pumps pulled out.jpg


Chiller.jpg


20150115_185505.jpg


20150115_185330.jpg


Controler.jpg
 
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