Clairity?

I have only one batch bottled under my belt and have my second in the carboy. My question, is there any way to avoid the settlement in the bottles?
The first batch was in the fermenter about a week and in the carboy for nearly 3 weeks before I bottled.

As long as you bottle condition, you will always have sediment. It's the yeast that settles out one it eats the priming sugar

gcdowd said:

As long as you bottle condition, you will always have sediment. It's the yeast that settles out one it eats the priming sugar

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+1. However, you can minimize the amount of sediment in the bottle by using finings or cold crashing.

Try using whirlfloc to help clear the beer. I bottle condition too but only pour down to the last 1/2 inch so I don't get all the yeast in my pint glass. Works great for me.

I used I tsp of finings. I was just wondering if there was a way to completely remove the yeast sediment. It seems to freak my friends out and they do that nose crinkle thing. I mean I don't mind having more beer for myself but I'd also like to share my creations. If not, oh well. More for me.

You could force carbonate in a keg...then bottle using the Biermuncher Bottle Filler. This would be in lieu of adding any priming dextrose.

If you want carbonated beer in the bottle, those are the only two options that I see.

Sounds like they'll have to man up or drink Bud Light. Lol

I had a similar experience with my friends. They were overly concerned with sediment in the bottles. There are three ways to overcome this without kegging or using a beer gun to fill your bottles with pre-carbonated beer.
1) educate your friends on how bottle conditioning works. Explain how carbonating in bottles can leave sediment however it is normal. None of my friends take issue with a little sediment in the bottles now
2) if you have the ability chill your beer in the carboy by placing it in a large cooler or ice or a refrigerator if possible prior to racking into bottles When you chill the beer the heaviest sediment settles to the bottom of the carboy and the clear beer can be racked off the top. You will love a little beer in the process by leaving some in the bottom of the carboy but it will significantly decrease the sediment in your finished bottles.
3) do not serve straight from the bottles. Home brew, or any great beer for that matter should be enjoyed from a glass. This will enable you to full experience what you have worked so hard for. From the hoppy aroma to the color all aspects of your brew will be apparent. Additionally when you pour the beer into the glass leave about a 1/4 inch of liquid behind. By the time your bottles have fully carbonated all the sediment will be at the bottom leaving a bit of beer in the bottle will eliminate sediment in the glassware. Good luck on future brews.
Ryan

Take a look at sedexbrewing.com, they sell these things called Brodie's that catch all the sediment. Really crafty idea. You screw them onto your bottles and turn your bottles upside down to condition and the sediment just gets trapped in the brodie filter which can be cleaned and reused.

I bottle condition for 3 weeks and then move a few to the chiller. The rest stay at 70 until needed. I've found the longer at 70 the more solid the trub gets and I can pretty much almost turn a bottle upside down and not get the trub off the bottom.

COLD CRASH your secondary fermenter either outside (if it's cold enough) but covered to protect your beer from U.V. from daylight exposure, or in a chilly garage (one without a furnace or a hot water heater) or garden shed is perfecto.

the cold crash is necessary to encourage flocculation of the yeast. Once the yeast has gone beddy-bye and is sleeping soundly in a nice hard cake on the bottom of your 2ndary vessel you can bottle your clean and clear beer and successfully leave most of the yeast beasties behind. The only sediment you'll have will be from what it takes to carbonate

I think I'll try the cold crash next batch. I've heard a lot of people discussing it on here. The other apparatus sounds interesting as well. I'll check into it. Thanks for the tips guys.

Vacuum centrifuge-- they only cost $30,000

Chill the bottles for more than a week (2-4 weeks if possible). The sediment will become much more compact than when chilling for less time.

How long do you cold crash, and what temperature is sufficient?

pferrell said:

How long do you cold crash, and what temperature is sufficient?

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I cold crash my beer for 24-72 hours. Depends on the type of beer. Larger beers longer time. Normal refrigeration temps are fine. If you can get low 40's that's great. I don't know if there is a set temperature just cold enough to chill the beer and separate the excess yeast to the bottom. I am sure there are other brewers who do it differently.
Good luck on future brews
Ryan