Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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well i am thinking of purchasing a voltage converter for the braumeister.

I have 230v in the garage but a voltage converter only costs like 100 bucks and will let me plug this thing in any where and brew.

the braumeister needs 2100 watts to operate. should i buy a 3000 watt or 4000 watt transformer. the price difference is like 15 dollars and i thing that the more power the less work the transformer has to do.

check these out and tell me what you think.

http://cgi.ebay.com/4000-w-Watt-Vol...691?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563b2b3483

http://cgi.ebay.com/4000-w-Watt-Vol...659?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a602f4c6b
 

Please keep posting on your Braumeister experiences. I think you may be he first person on the forums who's actually gotten one and is getting ready to brew. I, for one, will not criticize nor denigrate a system with which I have no experience. I am VERY interested in the Speidels products, so please tell us all you can. I have downloaded the English manual, but there's nothing like hands-on experience.
 
so just an update if you do not want to purchase a voltage converter. you have to cut the european plug style off of the powercable that comes with the braumeister and wire it to a laudry dryer style plug and plug it in there ot you can buy a plug adapter and use that on any 220v plug.

just an update
 
so just an update if you do not want to purchase a voltage converter. you have to cut the european plug style off of the powercable that comes with the braumeister and wire it to a laudry dryer style plug and plug it in there ot you can buy a plug adapter and use that on any 220v plug.

just an update


Good to know! Any idea when you are taking it on its maiden voyage? :mug:

Spoke with Thorsten Monday night and he told me mine may be delayed by one week which will put my delivery date somewhere around the 18th of this month.
 
You know, now that I think of it, if they are selling these as USA versions from the USA, shouldn't they be plug and play for us here? I'll shoot Thorsten an email.
 
Good morning. I just took delivery of the 20l Speidel Braumeister and was getting ready to "cut the cord" when I found this thread. I noticed some have decided to use a voltage transformer/converter instead of replacing the plug on the cord. Has anyone actually used the converter? My concern would be that the amperage draw through the 120V wiring would set off the typical 15 amp circuits in a normal house wiring. I'm guessing that you are choosing the converter so that you can use the boiler on any household outlet, such as in a kitchen. Has anyone replaced the plug with a 240V 30 amp dryer plug. Our dryer plugs are substantially bigger than the plug and cord that comes with the Braumeister. Can anyone offer their experience. Thank you
 
hfk2 said:
Good morning. I just took delivery of the 20l Speidel Braumeister and was getting ready to "cut the cord" when I found this thread. I noticed some have decided to use a voltage transformer/converter instead of replacing the plug on the cord. Has anyone actually used the converter? My concern would be that the amperage draw through the 120V wiring would set off the typical 15 amp circuits in a normal house wiring. I'm guessing that you are choosing the converter so that you can use the boiler on any household outlet, such as in a kitchen. Has anyone replaced the plug with a 240V 30 amp dryer plug. Our dryer plugs are substantially bigger than the plug and cord that comes with the Braumeister. Can anyone offer their experience. Thank you

I have the 50l version coming. Will the product Chris posted a link too work for you? It is in the post just above yours.
 
I'm assuming the braumeister is 220V. What's its current consumption?
Remember, if you use a 120V/220V converter, its current draw will be about double that of its 220V load (actually a little more, due to internal losses). So, if the braumeister needs 15A @ 220V, it will consume little more than 30A through the converter.

Also, before cutting down the cord and powering it up on 240V, I suggest you read the manual, and eventually contact the manufacturer. Germans are known for building their equipment to very exact specifications, so there's a chance the 220V BM may not withstand an almost 10% higher voltage.
 
Here are the instructions from Morebeer4u's website:

_wsb_83x72_Danger+Sign.jpg
This 5 Gallon Brewmaster needs to get the electrical plug changed to a Standard US 240V. (Contact your Electrician!)

Here are the 20l's specs:
Brewmaster 5 Gallon

Brew your own beer in a natural way. Take care of variety instead of simplicity. Drink against the stream. Serve your friends and mates your own beer. Create a new sort of beer which you alone can offer your guests. This will make a great surprise at any celebration or party.

The Brewmaster is designed for a brewing process of approx. 20 liter of beer.

Technical Data

Designation: Brewmaster 5 Gallon (20 liter)
Item No.: 47070
Material: Stainless steel
Weight: Approx. 15 kg
Heating spiral: 2000 Watt heating capacity
Pump: 23 Watt
Power connection: 230V
Contents: Brewing quantity 20 l Finished beer (standard beer) =approx. 25 l beer wort
Height: 600 mm
Diameter: 400 mm
Cardboard box: 740 x 600 x 610 mm
NEW - Control System: Fully automatic brewing control (temperature, time, pump)

And the 50l's specs:
Brewmaster 13 Gallon

Brew your own beer in a natural way. Take care of variety instead of simplicity. Drink against the stream. Serve your friends and mates your own beer. Create a new sort of beer which you alone can offer your guests. This will make a great surprise at any celebration or party.

The Brewmaster is designed for a brewing process of approx.
50 liter of beer.

Technical Data

Designation: Brewmaster 13 Gallon (50 liter)
Item No.: 45050
Material: Stainless steel
Weight: Approx. 24 kg with elements built in and lifting bows
Heating spiral: 3200 Watt heating capacity
Pump: 2x 23 Watt
Power connection: 230V
Contents: Brewing quantity 50 l Finished beer (standard beer) =approx. 55 l beer wort
Height: 700 mm
Diameter: 500 mm
Cardboard box: 950 x 760 x 700 mm
NEW - Control System: Fully automatic brewing control (temperature, time, pump)
 
Thanks for the replies. The receptacles Chris posted would most probably work. You would have to be sure to wire the ground appropriately. Our 240V outlets use 2 120V lines with one ground. I believe the Germans have one 230V line, a neutral and a ground similiar to our 120V system. Inodoro, according to Speidel the unit can be used with our 240V and our 60hz. Apparently there is enough variance in the voltage requirements to cover this range. I would think there would be no difference to the heating element, however the pump may run faster with the 60hz. Not sure about the control head.
 
Thanks Yambor44.

Hmm...For 2000W+, you'd be consuming little more than 17A at 120V. I wouldn't use a converter smaller than a 15A capacity, so you'd need a 25A/30A circuit.
For the 50L unit (3200W+) you'd have a 27A+ draw @ 120V, so I would go for a 40A converter, and a 60A circuit.
 
Inodoro, according to Speidel the unit can be used with our 240V and our 60hz. Apparently there is enough variance in the voltage requirements to cover this range. I would think there would be no difference to the heating element, however the pump may run faster with the 60hz. Not sure about the control head.

Perfect. Then that'd be the best way. Not only you'd save the money for the converter, but all the other materials (except maybe the plug) will be cheaper as well.
 
Thanks for the replies. The receptacles Chris posted would most probably work. You would have to be sure to wire the ground appropriately. Our 240V outlets use 2 120V lines with one ground. I believe the Germans have one 230V line, a neutral and a ground similiar to our 120V system. Inodoro, according to Speidel the unit can be used with our 240V and our 60hz. Apparently there is enough variance in the voltage requirements to cover this range. I would think there would be no difference to the heating element, however the pump may run faster with the 60hz. Not sure about the control head.

I have the 50l (or have it ordered) and already have a 4 prong stove type outlet installed in my garage. It is on a 50amp GFCI breaker. I would imagine this would be sufficient?
 
Glad I could help. :)

For the future, to do your own calculations, you just have to divide the power (W) consumption by the voltage, and you'll get the current draw (A).
For example, in your case, a 3300W load (I did 3300 because of the pumps and control panel) would draw 3300W/240V=13.75A. Your 50A circuit won't even break a sweat.
 
i just bought a voltage converter. i think like 150.00 dollars 5000 watts 5year warranty. i just wanted to have the ability to plug it in anywhere. i have 220 in the garage but i like brewing under the tiki hut in the back yard.
 
Glad I could help. :)

For the future, to do your own calculations, you just have to divide the power (W) consumption by the voltage, and you'll get the current draw (A).
For example, in your case, a 3300W load (I did 3300 because of the pumps and control panel) would draw 3300W/240V=13.75A. Your 50A circuit won't even break a sweat.

Thanks IP. :mug:
 
i just bought a voltage converter. i think like 150.00 dollars 5000 watts 5year warranty. i just wanted to have the ability to plug it in anywhere. i have 220 in the garage but i like brewing under the tiki hut in the back yard.

Thats sounds nice, brewing under the Tiki Hut!

So this converter will allow you to plug into a regular household 110 receptacle? Would that work on the 50l unit?
 
Has anyone here actually cut off the euro plug and installed a U.S. type plug? Thorsten replied to me that it is "an easy fix", however hasn't provided any instructions on exactly how to do it.
 
Has anyone here actually cut off the euro plug and installed a U.S. type plug? Thorsten replied to me that it is "an easy fix", however hasn't provided any instructions on exactly how to do it.

Warranty still in effect if you do that? Did he/they provide that in writing? Why is the company selling that to the US market in that fashion.

I really like the look of the machine, but sounds like they are just winging it on the US market at this point.
 
Thats sounds nice, brewing under the Tiki Hut!

So this converter will allow you to plug into a regular household 110 receptacle? Would that work on the 50l unit?

Well, the converter he's buying specs at 5KW. The 50l Speidels unit is quoted as 3200W for the "heating spiral", and 2 x 23W for the two pumps. So- 3250W; they don't say anything about the draw of the control unit, but it wouldn't be over 100-150W, so be generous and say 3500W. Still a long way from 5KW.

If I were buying this unit now, I'd be more concerned about it being supplied with a Euro style plug, and all that implies: they're not really established in the U.S. market, so what about warranty, parts, service, etc.?
 
Logic tells me that you would take their hot (230v) and swap it with one of our hots (120v) and swap their neutral with one of our hots (120v) for 240v out of phase. Ground would go unchanged. That's just my thought, I am NOT an Electrician. Get the proper instructions before you proceed.
 
i just bought a voltage converter. i think like 150.00 dollars 5000 watts 5year warranty. i just wanted to have the ability to plug it in anywhere. i have 220 in the garage but i like brewing under the tiki hut in the back yard.

Thats sounds nice, brewing under the Tiki Hut!

So this converter will allow you to plug into a regular household 110 receptacle? Would that work on the 50l unit?

It should be ok.
FiveKai: remember that converter can draw up to 50A from the 120V line. Make sure your circuit can handle the load safely.
 
wyzazz, I agree with your description of wiring the plug. That is how some have rewired plugs for euro instant hot water heaters. I just want an acknowledgement from Speidel or MoreBeer4U before I proceed that way. Otherwise I think a converter is the only other way to go, but it would require a 30amp circuit for the 20l system, and wouldn't be as economical as going straight to 240V.
 
Setting up my 20l Speidel Braumeister and a few observations: First I contacted Internation Video and Electronics about their DS-5000 Transformer. This is their reply:

"Technically speaking the DS-5000 should work with no problem however, heating products work a little differently than regular electric products. Over time the excessive output from your boiler could wear the coils out in the DS-5000. Most large appliances we do not recommend using transformers because they are not a pernament solution. The boiler may work for you several months even years however at some point it will burn out. There is also a HZ issue because European countries run on 50HZ and the U.S runs on 60HZ. When the machine is running it will be running at a faster pace than it is normally designed to and this adds to the motor failure. If you would like to try it out, the DS 5000 is the model to go with, however we do not recommend it ."

I also contacted Thorsten about changing the plug. He was quite helpful. Subsequently I cut off the Euro plug and installed a 3-wire 240V 30 amp dryer plug. Mine has 2 prongs at angles and 1 shaped like a small L. The leg with the small L is the ground and must be connected to the yellow/green striped wire in the Braumeister's cable. The other 2 get connected 1 each to the other 2 legs. After plugging it in it works just fine and I didn't get electrocuted. Warranty is still good if properly done. Specifically states on website that U.S. users must change plug. I tested the pump and heater and both work fine. I expect to brew on Sunday so I'll have more info then. One issue is when draining the pot with the spigot a little over 1 1/2 gallons remains. This is not exceptable. Speidel has you tilt the pot to get more out. The spigot connects to a welded fitting on the pot. On the inside of the pot is a large smooth bored hole. I think there is plenty of room (between the pot and malt pipe) to fashion a pickup tube that should drain to within 2 or 3 cups.
 
As more people acquire and use the Speidels unit (which I feel is going to happen), this thread will prove invaluable to those moving into this method of brewing. Continuing to post tips and tricks used with the Braumeister to this thread will merit petitioning for sticky status at some point, I'm sure.
 
Thanks hfk2! Mine should be here by next Friday. Can't wait!!

Look forward to reading about your brew session Sunday. Take lots of pics or a video if that is an option. :mug:
 
Yambor44, just so know even though you can set the language to English, the temperatures will still be in Celsius. You will have to convert your recipes. Also I was surprised when I cut the plug off because the actual wire sizes in the cable are only 16ga. I figure for the 20l you're only drawing about 8.5 amps at 240V. That's really nothing, but the wire gauge seems quite small.
 
Yambor44, just so know even though you can set the language to English, the temperatures will still be in Celsius. You will have to convert your recipes. Also I was surprised when I cut the plug off because the actual wire sizes in the cable are only 16ga. I figure for the 20l you're only drawing about 8.5 amps at 240V. That's really nothing, but the wire gauge seems quite small.

Thanks, "hfk2." This is the kind of info I'm talking about.
 
Also I was surprised when I cut the plug off because the actual wire sizes in the cable are only 16ga. I figure for the 20l you're only drawing about 8.5 amps at 240V. That's really nothing, but the wire gauge seems quite small.

Yup. That's the beauty of using a higher voltage.
 
So I am currently brewing centennial blonde . Mashed for 60min hit 1.043, the boili just got going and I added my centennial hops. While the boil got started I washed the malt tube and got it put away. So far the machine is extremely easy to use. You can set up to 5 different phases to the mash with times and temps . This recipe just called for one Phase. Now me and my bro are just relaxing until the next hop addition. I love this thing!:mug: pics will be posted later:ban:
 
here is one pic with the malt tube up in the draining position. i just recycled some wort from the spout through the grain bed again. after the boil i stirred to create a whirlpool and it was pretty cool how all the sediment just settled in the center in a cone shape. i didnt thin the whirlpool was going to work well due to the heating elements inside the kettle but it worked perfectly.

the only problem I had was that my brother added 1 oz of centennial pellets instead of 1/2 oz as stated in the recipe. we will see how this comes out.

IMG-20110409-00005.jpg
 
here is one pic with the malt tube up in the draining position. i just recycled some wort from the spout through the grain bed again. after the boil i stirred to create a whirlpool and it was pretty cool how all the sediment just settled in the center in a cone shape. i didnt thin the whirlpool was going to work well due to the heating elements inside the kettle but it worked perfectly.

the only problem I had was that my brother added 1 oz of centennial pellets instead of 1/2 oz as stated in the recipe. we will see how this comes out.

I can't remember- looks like you have the 20l version....if you recall, I'd like to get an idea of the times involved, e.g., heating the strike water, getting the various temperature rises, including the boil. I assume you're using a standard IC to chill, and didn't order the Speidels unit....it looks like a pretty standard SS coil chiller to me.
 
FiveKaiBrewing said:
here is one pic with the malt tube up in the draining position. i just recycled some wort from the spout through the grain bed again. after the boil i stirred to create a whirlpool and it was pretty cool how all the sediment just settled in the center in a cone shape. i didnt thin the whirlpool was going to work well due to the heating elements inside the kettle but it worked perfectly.

the only problem I had was that my brother added 1 oz of centennial pellets instead of 1/2 oz as stated in the recipe. we will see how this comes out.

What a great brew area! Did you take any other pics? Glad to hear it went smoothly.
 
Finally put the 20l Braumeister together. I installed it on an old night table I had. Added castors and my march pump. Within an arms length I have 240V power, water, and my basement door to discharge cooling water.
Braumeister on stand.jpg

This show the interior of the kettle. The discharge hole is so high that it leaves about 1.5 gallons in the kettle. I added the copper tube and now it leaves about 1 cup.
DSC_0766.jpg

You add 23liters (about 6gals) cold water, program the controller and hit start. When kettle reaches temperature it beeps to indicate to add malt pipe, the first stainless screen and the stainless cloth. Then add malt, stirring as you go.
addingmalt.jpg

Acknowledge malt is added and top screen and cloth are in place and press start and the Braumeister starts the protein rest or whatever program you put in.
mashing.jpg
The water pushes up through the malt pipe through the malt and cascades over the sides. I put shims under the wheel to get an even flow over the top of the malt pipe.

Thought I'd show the plug replacement. Easy to do. Yellow/green wire in Speidel cord is ground. That must be connected to ground plug. The other 2 hot/neutral wires go to the other 2 wire in the Speidel cord.
DSC_0769.jpg
 
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