Smack Pack - have I been misled?

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Ridire

Ridire

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I was told to buy one smack pack (Wyeast 1968) for a 5 gallon batch of beer with an estimated OG of 1.060. I now see that the cell count on this thing is 100 billion and I am reading I should pitch more than 200 billion cells into this beer.

Have I been given bad advice?

If so, what do I do now? I do not have any DME for a starter and probably do not have time to get any in time to do a starter. I do have dry yeast (2 packs each of S-04 and S-05).

So, do I:

1. Just pitch the smack pack and be done with it?
2. Just pitch 2 packs of S-04?
3. Pitch the smack pack and one of the S-04?
4. Go buy some High Life and stop trying to make beer?
 
I would just pitch the smack pack. I used just one for all my 5g brews for a long time and my beer turned out fine.

Pitching the proper amount of yeast does affect the flavour, but so do 100 other variables. Having one or two variables off (within reason) won't ruin a beer. Under pitching will just make a different beer, not necessarily a bad one.
 
Many people these days are saying you need more yeast than what the yeast companies recommend and so many factors are involved it's hard to know which numbers to go by. It is known that the more yeast you pitch the less off flavors the yeast produce since they will reproduce less. Honestly, as long as you don't go over 1.060 you should be fine. Oxygenate the wort well and try and keep the smack pack around the same temp as the wort you are pitching into and you will be ok. When I first started brewing I didn't know any better and pitched Wyeast's 50ml smack pack into a few batches instead of the 125ml smack pack and things still turned out fine.
 
I've been told that the smack pack is good enough for up to 5 gallons, unless its a really big beer nearing the edge of the yeast tolerance. For thet reason, ive generally only used one pack. I'm curious to hear feedback from the crew here..


it bears noting that im planing on moving away form the smack-packs and to traditional starters/washing in order to reduce brew costs...
 
rhoop said:
I would just pitch the smack pack. I used just one for all my 5g brews for a long time and my beer turned out fine.

Pitching the proper amount of yeast does affect the flavour, but so do 100 other variables. Having one or two variables off (within reason) won't ruin a beer. Under pitching will just make a different beer, not necessarily a bad one.
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This is also sound advice.
 
Roadie said:
You could always purchase another smack pack.
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There is a small possibility that I will be able to do that. But assuming I cannot, mix the yeast? use the dry? under-pitch with the liquid?

I want this beer to be exceptional and am pissed that I was told to use this one pack if doing so risks off-flavors.

EDIT: while I'm no seasoned expert, I am beginning to eliminate a lot of the things that cause off flavors. I do not want a silly variable that could have been so easily avoided (such as under-pitching) to factor into the quality of this beer.
 
ewebb said:
I've been told that the smack pack is good enough for up to 5 gallons, unless its a really big beer nearing the edge of the yeast tolerance. For thet reason, ive generally only used one pack. I'm curious to hear feedback from the crew here..


it bears noting that im planing on moving away form the smack-packs and to traditional starters/washing in order to reduce brew costs...
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Every source (other than the yeast companies) that I look at says that this beer should have around 220 billion cells pitched. One smack pack has 100 billion cells (if 100% viable).

http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html
 
When I first started brewing (1 year ago) I always pitched smack packs. I make starters mostly now, but due to an impromptu brew 2 weeks ago, I just pitched a smack pack into 5g of 1.058 stout. Gravity check yesterday confirms we are at 1.013 and I'll be kegging it tonight. It tasted great. You'll be fine pitching the smack pack. I think the hype about starters is the horror of under pitching and the beer not finishing. I'm sure there are other reasons, but those are beyond my 4th grade edumacation and I still make great beer!

As a side note, this is a strong flavored beer so any off flavors produced (if any) would go unnoticed.
 
Ridire said:
Every source (other than the yeast companies) that I look at says that this beer should have around 220 billion cells pitched. One smack pack has 100 billion cells (if 100% viable).

http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html
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Yeast calculators, however useful for general calculations, can be way off. No real way to tell what the little guys are doing other looking at them reallllll close.
 
If you're really concerned about under pitching, then go the s-04 route... they're pretty similar. The 1968 has been said to result in a slightly maltier profile, but I've done ESBs with s-04 that were pretty damn good.
 
I'd suggest you just go with the 2 S-04s. As I understand it, the yeast strain is essentially the same as WY1968. That way you're using the same yeast and aren't underpitching.

As stated, any option 1 - 3 should turn out ok. Even underpitching would still probably make decent beer, but why underpitch when you've got the same yeast laying around in ample quantities?
 
Sounds to me like you know your situation and your options, now you just need to pick the route you want to take.

I personally would just use the one smack pack on this beer. I did that for LOTS of years and my beers were good. Exceptional requires consistency in your process; lots of practice with your system; a thorough knowledge of the recipe, it's variables, and your specific end goal; and a little bit of luck ;). I believe that if you have a good consistent process; provide the yeast sufficient oxygen to perform their job; and keep your fermentation control in-check at all times that you will yield a final product that is VERY NEAR what you would with 2 smack packs.

I guess you could always split your batch in half, into different fermenters, and use the smack pack in one and a dry sachet of S-04 in the other. But I'd still vote for one smack pack in your 1.060 5 gallon batch.
 
Ridire said:
Every source (other than the yeast companies) that I look at says that this beer should have around 220 billion cells pitched. One smack pack has 100 billion cells (if 100% viable).

http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html
Click to expand...

I would recommend a starter on any beer above about 1.040 with liquid yeast.

If you can't make a starter, it'll probably be ok. Even Wyeast says that they recommend a starter on gravities above 1.050 or for a lager (IF you dgd around on their site that is!).

That said, I"ve gone ahead and pitched without a starter when pressed for time in beers with OGs up to 1.060, and it's been ok. That's only when the yeast has been very fresh, though.
 
stpug said:
Sounds to me like you know your situation and your options, now you just need to pick the route you want to take.

I personally would just use the one smack pack on this beer. I did that for LOTS of years and my beers were good. Exceptional requires consistency in your process; lots of practice with your system; a thorough knowledge of the recipe, it's variables, and your specific end goal; and a little bit of luck ;). I believe that if you have a good consistent process; provide the yeast sufficient oxygen to perform their job; and keep your fermentation control in-check at all times that you will yield a final product that is VERY NEAR what you would with 2 smack packs.

I guess you could always split your batch in half, into different fermenters, and use the smack pack in one and a dry sachet of S-04 in the other. But I'd still vote for one smack pack in your 1.060 5 gallon batch.
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This is where I'm leaning now. I have a ferm chamber, I am going to actually do something with my water this time, I am using a recipe from the database here...the only things I am worried about are (1) mash temp control (using a new kettle for BIAB) and (2) proper yeast health.

From now on, I will ALWAYS plan on using a starter for liquid yeast.
 
There's no way i'd pitch a vial or smack pack by itself if i had back up dry yeast. I vote dry yeast and save your smack pack for the next one
 
Yooper said:
I would recommend a starter on any beer above about 1.040 with liquid yeast.

If you can't make a starter, it'll probably be ok. Even Wyeast says that they recommend a starter on gravities above 1.050 or for a lager (IF you dgd around on their site that is!).

That said, I"ve gone ahead and pitched without a starter when pressed for time in beers with OGs up to 1.060, and it's been ok. That's only when the yeast has been very fresh, though.
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Thanks, Yoop. Date on the smack pack is September of 2013.
 
I would be more concerned with off flavours pitching two types of yeast. That can work well, but sometimes ends up with an undesirable finish. Again, I wouldn't be too worried unless you have every other variable covered. Do you have awesome temp control? Perfect mash temp control? A great malt crush? Oxygenation? And this is just the start. If you don't also have all those dialed in perfectly, I almost guarantee you won't notice the difference between one and two smack packs.

Keep one bottle, then do this brew again, next time with a higher yeast count. See if you can pick out the differences. I'd bet you'll be hard pressed unless you've got an incredible pallette.

If you're really worried, make an extra effort to oxygenate well. It will reduce the stress on the yeast during the lag phase, thus reducing off flavours.
 
rhoop said:
I would be more concerned with off flavours pitching two types of yeast. That can work well, but sometimes ends up with an undesirable finish. Again, I wouldn't be too worried unless you have every other variable covered. Do you have awesome temp control? Perfect mash temp control? A great malt crush? Oxygenation? And this is just the start. If you don't also have all those dialed in perfectly, I almost guarantee you won't notice the difference between one and two smack packs.

Keep one bottle, then do this brew again, next time with a higher yeast count. See if you can pick out the differences. I'd bet you'll be hard pressed unless you've got an incredible pallette.

If you're really worried, make an extra effort to oxygenate well. It will reduce the stress on the yeast during the lag phase, thus reducing off flavours.
Click to expand...

This is my thinking. I'd rather pitch 1 fresh smack pack (which it seems you have) rather than combining yeasts. That's a variable I'm not sure I'd like to play with unless I'm experimenting or something. And from experience numerous times, I've pitched smack packs older than yours and ended with fine results.

Again, good luck!
 
I agree that it would probably turn out ok if you just pitched the one smack pack. It would be under pitching though.

So if you don't want to do that I think your 2 best options are: (1)go buy another smack pack and pitch 2 or (2)pitch 1 pack of the S-04. Dry yeast has a much higher cell count per pack so you would only need to pitch 1 pack of it.

1968 and S-04 are not going to give you exactly the same flavors, but they are both fairly low attenuating, highly flocculant British yeasts. If you're specifically looking for the flavor from 1968 then I would go get another pack of it, but if you just want a British flavor I would go the easier (and cheaper) route of pitching a pack of the S-04.
 
I may have a chance to get to the store to buy another smack pack tomorrow. If not, I think I'll go with the one pack I've got. I am not sure when I will use this yeast again and I guess if the consensus is that one pack will be OK, I'd rather have the S-04 lingering in my fridge than the 1968.
 
I don't see where anyone suggested combining yeasts. I would not combine yeasts in the same fermenter for a non-experimental batch either. FWIW
 
ResumeMan said:
I'd suggest you just go with the 2 S-04s. As I understand it, the yeast strain is essentially the same as WY1968. That way you're using the same yeast and aren't underpitching.
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I think when this was posted it got miss read. It seems like we're on the same page about the combining and not being an experiment.
 
One smack pack is underpitching. You can listen to amateurs blither on about how they've used one smack pack for decades and blah blah blah, but the simple scientific fact is that one smack pack or vial does not - can not - contain enough cells to properly inoculate 19-20 liters of 1.060 wort.

That is a FACT supported by more brewing science than any of the "just pitch the one and it'll be fine" posters in this thread can even process.

It is a FACT that a proper inoculation is 1 million cells per ml of inoculated wort per degree Plato. The calculators are based on this paradigm. The calculators are RIGHT. People who say the calculators are wrong don't understand enough about the subject to have an opinion, or they'd realize the calculators are right.

Accepting as valid the "advice" that you can brew consistently excellent beer by ignoring how much yeast you're pitching is as stupid as listening to the fellow who says that a can of Blue Ribbon extract, a bag of sugar, bread yeast and a garbage can covered in cheesecloth will make consistently excellent beer. Would you just throw in a handful of hops? Or do you carefully calculate how many IBU you want and carefully measure your hops accordingly? Do you just toss in some malt? Or do you carefully tailor your grist to ensure the flavor, color, and OG you desire? Please. That's a no-brainer.

Long story short: Advice to pitch one smack pack is bad advice.

Cheers,

Bob
 
Bob said:
Accepting as valid the "advice" that you can brew consistently excellent beer by ignoring how much yeast you're pitching is as stupid as listening to the fellow who says that a can of Blue Ribbon extract, a bag of sugar, bread yeast and a garbage can covered in cheesecloth will make consistently excellent beer.
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I don't think anyone here has told the OP to expect excellent beer with just pitching 1 smack pack. The advice has been that he would be "fine". He would indeed end up with a decent product in the end. I will agree with you in that proper pitching rates are a controllable variable in the process to making excellent beer and the more constant you can get this part the better. I do go by the calculators, but you can't sit and tell me there is no variance to the calculations either. Would if my stir plate stirs harder than yours? Or not as hard and doesn't originate exactly as yours? They are a tool meant to aid us in the process of brewing and to get us as close as possible.

However, I can speak from experience when I say I've done, when I was an amateur and when I wasn't prepared to brew, what the OP is asking about and ended up with a fine beer. It may not have been the best I've ever done, but still something I could enjoy.

In the end, he would be "fine" as I've said, but it just may not be the best beer he's ever made.
 
And FWIW, I used 1968 on a couple batches last year. I liked the results, but I remember reading that it was a finicky yeast that can crap out early if not handled properly. Point is, (and I haven't revisited the research I did back then) I think 1968 is more likely than other strains to mess things up if you underpirtch.

S-04 is kinda similar to 1968, so if it was my batch, I'd use the S-04.
 
I would pitch one packet of the S-04 (rehydrated appropriately). Why would you knowingly underpitch when you have the resources to pitch the correct amount at your fingertips? That doesn't make any sense to me. The yeast are making the magic happen for you... make them happy and they will reward you.

Then, after you add the yeast: go to your LHBS, get some extra DME, make a starter with the smack pack and get ready to brew again on Sunday.
 
Bob said:
Do you just toss in some malt? Please. That's a no-brainer.
Click to expand...
They're working on a new Sixty Point Base Malt. You just throw some in and it'll multiply to give you a 1.060 gravity beer. :rolleyes:



Nice rant there, but there are several references that say that with a fresh lab sample of yeast can be pitched at half the rate as a home starter with the same relults. I won't be linking, so don't ask.
 
When I first came across the pitching rates you have found, I too was scared into thinking that if I don't follow the Mr.Malty calculator rates than my beer will be ruined by off flavors and I remember running back up to my LHBS to get another 2nd smack pack. Will pitching more yeast produce a cleaner beer? Yes, but one has to wonder, if it is such a bad thing to use only one smack pack than why do Wyeast and White Labs have those guidelines printed on the labels? Making people think they need double the yeast would only help them sell more! I am not an expert by any means, but I am a fellow brewer and if I had some advice it is similar to what's already posted here: Relax, don't worry and have a homebrew! As long as you don't WAY under pitch you will make good beer!
 
Pitching too little yeast means the yeast need to reproduce more. That means a longer lag time (more risk for other bugs or wild yeast to take over), it means you need to add more oxygen to allow for more cells to be made, it means nutrients will be used up faster, and it means an increase in ester formation as well as other possible off-flavors. It could also result in underattenuation, although with a fresh smack pack that is not as likely as the rest of the issues I mentioned. Will it still make beer? Yes. Will the beer still be good? Probably. But the simple fact is that the OP has the means to pitch the right amount of yeast and avoid potential issues.

Ridire, if you only had the smack pack, and you had just made your wort, and you absolutely had to pitch something immediately - that would be a situation where I would recommend direct pitching the smack pack. Since you have dry yeast in the appropriate amount for pitching into 5 gallons, and you aren't in an emergency situation, there is really no reason to go with the smack pack. You would be making a conscious decision to NOT make the best beer you could make on this batch. Will other variables come into play? Of course, but if you control the controllables, you will always have better results than if you neglected to control said controllables.

As a best practice, pitch the right amount of yeast for the batch you are making. In a pinch or emergency situation, do what needs to be done.

Can you drive your car with warped brake rotors? Yes. Is it ideal? No.
Can you make dinner from a prepackaged frozen box of food? Sure, Hungry Man has plenty of offerings. Is a home cooked steak with twice baked potatoes and corn on the cob better? You better believe it.

The point is, if you are in a bind and need to do something that is less-than-ideal, of course you should do what it takes to get by. You don't seem to be in a position where you need to "do what it takes to get by" with respect to this beer, so it only makes sense to pitch the right number of viable yeast cells to do the job.
 
I use a starter or two smack packs (same yeast) for 1.060. Using one smack pack will not ruin your beer (be sure to aerate well). You are correct in the OG that one smack pack is considered underpitching for higher gravity beers. You can always make two batches and compare the different yeast pitching results for future knowledge.
 
rgauthier20420 said:
I don't think anyone here has told the OP to expect excellent beer with just pitching 1 smack pack. The advice has been that he would be "fine".
Click to expand...

That's a specious argument. When people read "you'll be fine", what they take away from the conversation is "that practice is perfectly acceptable". It is not, any more than eyeballing hops or grain or liquor or temperatures.

Homebrewing as a culture has come a loooooong way since I started 20 years ago, when hopped extract in tins was the standard and the only yeast you could get was dried and, frankly, crap. We've gotten to the point where a brewer worth his salt won't half-ass any of his ingredients or procedures, ever, except in the case of yeast. With yeast, we're still all like, "Yeah, whatever. You'll be fine." That attitude needs to go away. It is just one of the windmills against which I tilt. :D

I do go by the calculators, but you can't sit and tell me there is no variance to the calculations either. Would if my stir plate stirs harder than yours? Or not as hard and doesn't originate exactly as yours? They are a tool meant to aid us in the process of brewing and to get us as close as possible.
Click to expand...

This argument is partially specious as well. Of course each circumstance is different. Each ferment is different, each strain is different, ad nauseum. But that is no reason to disregard the calculators, as you advised above. Your advice is a perfect example of letting the best be the enemy of the good: Yes, the only way to be sure is to do cell counts. But how many hobbyists are equipped for that? Hell, the only reason I'm equipped for it is because I learned it on the job.

MrMalty and other calculators are a ballpark, yes. But they're a far more accurate measurement than anything you've advised. I agree that obsessing over cell count is distasteful. But to advise blithe disregard for commonly-accepted good practice is irresponsible.

However, I can speak from experience when I say I've done, when I was an amateur and when I wasn't prepared to brew, what the OP is asking about and ended up with a fine beer. It may not have been the best I've ever done, but still something I could enjoy.

In the end, he would be "fine" as I've said, but it just may not be the best beer he's ever made.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I've done the same thing.

What I'm kicking at is the attitude that this is perfectly fine procedure. It's not. We can't say, "OMGWTFBBQ UR BEER IZ RUINED", because that's not true. But what happened in this thread was blithe support of poor practice. We should at least, in the answer to such questions, say something like, "Well, best practice is XYZ, because of 123. You'll probably be all right doing ABC, but it's a half-assed solution. Take a lesson from this and always strive for best practice." What Boyd wrote just above is really the sort of advice Ridire needed right off the bat. Instead, he got far too much "Meh. Whatevs."

I support answers like "Meh. Whatevs." when circumstances dictate (or even allow) it. This is not one of those cases. ;)

In closing, please don't think I'm being all ANGERFURY. If we were sitting in a pub, this would be a spirited conversation, nothing more. :mug:

Bob
 
Additionally, just remember that if you have a day before your brew you can still make a starter. You do not need any special equipment, a jar a starter wort and some foil will work, no stirplate necessary, just swirl it every time you walk by. It may not get you all the way up there but you will be a lot closer that way.
 
Bob said:
That's a specious argument. When people read "you'll be fine", what they take away from the conversation is "that practice is perfectly acceptable". It is not, any more than eyeballing hops or grain or liquor or temperatures.

Homebrewing as a culture has come a loooooong way since I started 20 years ago, when hopped extract in tins was the standard and the only yeast you could get was dried and, frankly, crap. We've gotten to the point where a brewer worth his salt won't half-ass any of his ingredients or procedures, ever, except in the case of yeast. With yeast, we're still all like, "Yeah, whatever. You'll be fine." That attitude needs to go away. It is just one of the windmills against which I tilt. :D



This argument is partially specious as well. Of course each circumstance is different. Each ferment is different, each strain is different, ad nauseum. But that is no reason to disregard the calculators, as you advised above. Your advice is a perfect example of letting the best be the enemy of the good: Yes, the only way to be sure is to do cell counts. But how many hobbyists are equipped for that? Hell, the only reason I'm equipped for it is because I learned it on the job.

MrMalty and other calculators are a ballpark, yes. But they're a far more accurate measurement than anything you've advised. I agree that obsessing over cell count is distasteful. But to advise blithe disregard for commonly-accepted good practice is irresponsible.



Agreed. I've done the same thing.

What I'm kicking at is the attitude that this is perfectly fine procedure. It's not. We can't say, "OMGWTFBBQ UR BEER IZ RUINED", because that's not true. But what happened in this thread was blithe support of poor practice. We should at least, in the answer to such questions, say something like, "Well, best practice is XYZ, because of 123. You'll probably be all right doing ABC, but it's a half-assed solution. Take a lesson from this and always strive for best practice." What Boyd wrote just above is really the sort of advice Ridire needed right off the bat. Instead, he got far too much "Meh. Whatevs."

I support answers like "Meh. Whatevs." when circumstances dictate (or even allow) it. This is not one of those cases. ;)

In closing, please don't think I'm being all ANGERFURY. If we were sitting in a pub, this would be a spirited conversation, nothing more. :mug:

Bob
Click to expand...


I think you understand me and what I'm looking for. I do not believe I have the ability to make the greatest beer ever...I've only been doing this for a number of months, not years. But my objective is to make the best product I can possibly make. I do not want to half-ass some portion of the process knowingly. I have put together a fermentation chamber because I want the ferm temp perfect, I have worked my sanitation processes to where I do not believe I will have any issues with contaminants, I have researched the best water profile for this beer, I have invested in digital thermometers and calculated the proper strike temperature to get the mash I want...I do not want to underpitch my yeast if it "will make beer...just not great beer". I am sure I will do something that will detract from the beer, but not something I plan on doing.

I have gone back and forth on this but I think I am going to go about it this way - if I can get to the LHBS today, I will buy a second smack pack. If I cannot get to the LHBS today, I will go with the S-04.
 
DrunkleJon said:
Additionally, just remember that if you have a day before your brew you can still make a starter. You do not need any special equipment, a jar a starter wort and some foil will work, no stirplate necessary, just swirl it every time you walk by. It may not get you all the way up there but you will be a lot closer that way.
Click to expand...

I have a stir plate and flask... I do not have DME. I am going to pick some up if I get the the LHBS but if I do that, I am also just going to get the second smack pack so I do not have worry about the starter this weekend.
 
The 1968 lingering in your fridge shouldn't be a problem. You can easily use year old yeast with good results as long as you make a good starter or build it up with a couple starters.

In this case I would recommend using a properly rehydrated packet of S-04.

The other thing I will say is I don't think 1 day is enough to make a starter. I prefer at least 4 days but I like to let it almost finish and sit in the fridge for a couple days so I can pour off the excess. I make a starter Tuesday at the latest. On Thursday I put it in the fridge. Saturday I pull it out, pour off the excess and let the yeast warm up.
 
Ridire said:
But my objective is to make the best product I can possibly make. I do not want to half-ass some portion of the process knowingly. I have put together a fermentation chamber because I want the ferm temp perfect, I have worked my sanitation processes to where I do not believe I will have any issues with contaminants, I have researched the best water profile for this beer, I have invested in digital thermometers and calculated the proper strike temperature to get the mash I want...I do not want to underpitch my yeast if it "will make beer...just not great beer". I am sure I will do something that will detract from the beer, but not something I plan on doing.
Click to expand...

That is a very sound attitude. If you make every effort to remove or reduce variables which may have a negative impact on excellence and consistency, you increase your odds of brewing great beer every time. That's something toward which every brewer should strive.

I understand a laissez faire attitude toward brewing. RDWHAHB, and all that. Believe it or not, I support that attitude - if you're brewing the type of beer you enjoy, brew it how you like, for it's no business of mine if you don't want to follow good practices. Where I kick is when a brewer like you - who clearly wants to refine process and strive toward excellence - doesn't follow all good practices and takes a laissez faire attitude over part (or one step) of the process, because that makes no sense. I especially kick against advice which encourages a brewer like you to take a RDWHAHB approach to something so integral and essential to the process as yeast management. Hence my rather strident commentary in this thread. ;)

I have gone back and forth on this but I think I am going to go about it this way - if I can get to the LHBS today, I will buy a second smack pack. If I cannot get to the LHBS today, I will go with the S-04.
Click to expand...

Also sound. Good luck! I hope this is your best brew ever. :mug:

Bob
 
Ridire said:
I have a stir plate and flask... I do not have DME. I am going to pick some up if I get the the LHBS but if I do that, I am also just going to get the second smack pack so I do not have worry about the starter this weekend.
Click to expand...

I got ya. I hope you worked out a solution. Be it a second yeast or a starter. I try to always keep some extract on hand just in case as a result of learning that the smack packs/white labs vials are not enough. I just feel you should not skimp when you have the option of doing it more right. Good attitude though. Good luck on the brew.
 
I enjoy learning from others posts on this forum.

Unfortunately, I think what I have learned from this post is that if advice given is "bad," that some forum members are going to freak the eff out.
 
DrunkleJon said:
I got ya. I hope you worked out a solution. Be it a second yeast or a starter. I try to always keep some extract on hand just in case as a result of learning that the smack packs/white labs vials are not enough. I just feel you should not skimp when you have the option of doing it more right. Good attitude though. Good luck on the brew.
Click to expand...

I got to the LHBS and picked up a second smack pack. To my knowledge, the brew day went perfect with the exception of ending up with more volume than expected (but still hit my target OG). I'm now just hoping the extra beer doesn't cause me a blowout due to insufficient headspace. 12 hours into fermentation everything looks good. Slow airlock activity and no signs of krausen creeping out if the airlock.
 

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