how do you pass gas??

I recently purchased the Whirlpool WAR488BSL mini fridge for my DIY kegerator conversion.

I have a 20# co2 tank that will have to be outside the fridge so I’m looking for suggestions on how to pass the gas line through the fridge.

I’d like to have the option to quickly connect and disconnect my dual serve regulator so I want to have 2 Cornelius posts on the outside of the fridge.

I’ve seen where a bulk head is installed through the top corners of the fridge like this https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/co2-tank-outside-kegerator-366211/index2.html but I’m not sure I have enough room in the corners to do this. The evaporator plate fills up most of the back wall and what is open in the corners is rounded so there really isn’t a flat service on the inside to tighten the nut on the bulkhead down.

I’ve also seen the DIY bulkhead through floor of the hump using brass fittings.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/kegerator-conversion-danby-440bl-294606/

If I did go with the bulkheads through the corners, what parts do I need besides the bulkheads to attach the corny post to the outside and the gas line to the inside. My lines have threaded nuts on them already…will these thread right onto the bulkhead?

If I went with the DIY brass bulkhead through the hump floor, is connecting corny posts an option?

If you could find the perfect spot to install a 1/4" MFL-MFL feed-through/bulkhead, you could then outfit both ends with one of the adapters shown here, add a pair of posts, and be good to go. Aside from the adapters (which are pretty much custom cut) I imagine you could find similar 1/4" MFL parts in brass...

Cheers!

FWIW. I originally used a short brass pipe nipple to run CO2 through the sidewall of my corny cooler. However, I found that the exterior fittings sweated profusely in the un-conditioned space of my garage. I switched over to a sch80 pvc nipple which has a much lower coefficient of heat transfer and the sweating stopped.

Lift a cheek and let her fly.


...oh wait. sorry.

Wait for the dog to get close and let it loose. Promptly blame the dog for the noise/odor and tell everyone that a change of dog food might be in order. Later in secret give Fido a treat for taking one for the team...

Let it slide out quietly, and leave the room. Then blame it on the dog..... My wife still thinks the dog is sick or needs a new brand of food. And we have 2 dogs so there is always at least one in the room.....

Wheelchair Bob

Since the brackets that hold the shelves will no longer be needed, they should be able to be removed and then I'll have about an inch on either side of the cooling plate to drill the holes for the bulkheads. I won't need a corny post on the inside so that should be enough room?

I drilled holes in my fridge put grommets on inside and outside layers of fridge and passed gas line through. I use kent disconnects from morebeer on the gas lines closer to the tank if i need to swap around lines.

so i should be able to install a 1/4 MFL bulkhead through the back wall
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_40_131_574&products_id=10234

then i will install a Cornelius plug adaptor to the outside
http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Cornelius_Plug_Adapter_1_4_MPT_p/cornelius-plug-adapter.htm

which will then allow me to attach a gas ball lock post
http://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/product_p/post.htm

will this work?

Sounds familiar...

Cheers!

the back wall of my fridge appears to be approx. 1-1/4" thick.

what length bulkhead adaptor would i need:
2-7/8" - length-1-1/8" working length
3-1/2" - length-1-3/4" working length

The "working length" appears to correspond to the span of the non-threaded portion of the MFL-MFL bulkhead, so you'd want to go with the 1 1/8" version...

Cheers!