Motorizing a MaltMill - Guidance needed

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Chriso

Broken Robot Brewing Co.
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Yo. As discussed over here, I use a JSP MaltMill model P (Pre-set).... This means that I have a non-adjustable .045 gap, and as a result, am getting a fairly minimal/conservative crush, and my efficiencies are stagnating in the low-to-mid 60%'s. I ain't buying a drill. My 18V Coleman cordless won't turn it, and the cheap plug-in drill I bought started smoking instantly on the first use. I don't want an expensive drill, as I don't do projects around the house, and have no need for a Cadillac of drills. So, since I have wimpy arms and 9 lbs of grain tires me out, I want to motorize my MaltMill, that way I can easily run my grains through twice for a better crush. I have virtually no electric skills, virtually no math/physics skills, and my past DIY projects have come out uglier than BierMuncher's junk.

So where do I start? I need a motor. I need suggestions - cheap is best. I'd like to keep the entire project, including pulleys, under $60. I've heard of people using wiper motors from cars? I found This Site linked to from the MaltMill home page... and from there I found This Site that sells motors... but the motor that the guy in the FAQ bought is no longer sold, and I can't seem to find anything comparable. He used a 1/3 HP, the best I've found is a 1/15 HP? ... This one is 1/30 HP but is pre-wired. It's a bit high RPM though.

I know I'll need to fabricate a base, I think I can handle that part with a 24"x24" pre-cut shelf from the hardware store, and then use my jigsaw to cut an appropriate opening. Then, glue the shelf base to the existing JSP base, and clamp tightly.

I found this post to help with the pulley sizing and belt sizing... and I used to work at an auto parts store, so I have at least basic familiarity with V-Belts. I'll gladly take a cheap source on pulleys though, if anyone has one - I saw the $30 mamma jammas over at Grainger and nearly peed myself. But mostly, I need some help filling in the first half of this project. Thanks.

AAAACwG40E0AAAAAAH21Fw.jpg
 
I wouldn't go any lower than a 1/8hp motor. You should be able to find some on ebay at decent prices. The 1/3hp 1725 are the most common and work perfect for running a mill. you might just call up some old guys that you know or find an old washing machine or something, it seems like everyone has those sitting around.

As for the sheaves I don't know of anywhere cheaper than grainger, you will probably just have to suck it up and order from them.
 
Old swamp coolers have all the parts you need.

Washing Machines or Dryers may have many of the right parts as well.

Try Home Depot or Lowes for the pulleys, in the swamp cooler section. They sell an adjustable pulley (motor end) that may help with speed adjustment.
 
I have an old JSP that I got free, and I just finished setting up my grain mill stand last night. I just used an old piece of shipping crate-2x4 perimeter and 3/4 plywood, and four 2x4's for legs, screwed together with deck screws.

I cut a spacer from a 4x4 to raise the mill up to the height of my Bodine 170rpm AC Gearmotor-1/6hp. I used Lovejoy couplings from McMaster-Carr, with a Buna spider to join them. It is wired to a metal outlet box which is screwed to the top of the stand, and a pigtail from there to plug into the wall. It is controlled from a standard toggle-type light switch. The whole length is minimal, and there is no belt assembly to have to guard-I think it is cheaper to direct couple, too. By a lot.

I will send you pics and part numbers if you are interested-I wasn't going to document it, since it is just a workhorse and not built with new lumber. It is modeled after the BM Industries™ Keggle Engineering :D, I didn't spend any time at all cobbling together a stand, but it's built to last a lifetime.

I have yet to run a trial, but it is surely more torquey than a cordless drill.

Kiltlifter: WTF is a swamp cooler??
 
Still not finding much for motors... eBay options are pricier than I thought they were gonna be.... Not turning up anything under $60 or $70.... Looks like a Heat Pump motor would be perfect, 1/5 HP and about 1075 RPM.... but those are in the $80+ range...

Would 1/11 hp, 415 rpm, 1.6 amp be enough to drive a mill? It'd save on large pulleys, I could get away with a 1:1.5 drive ratio.

There's this one... just gotta wait and hope that eBay comes through... at 83 RPM , I'll need to boost the speed up 3:1 with sheaves... but it should be nice and torquey?

Any other super secret sources for these things?

HVAC people, If I were to go to a local repair shop and ask really politely, would I get laughed at and chased off? Are these things "precious"? Or are they dime-a-dozen if you're "in the trade"? I always feel bad asking for favors on stuff like this.

I'd like to spend less than $30 on the motor so that I still have money for the base, sheaves, and belt. I know, it appears that's a pipe dream, but I can still hope. :/

Henry, where'd you find your Bodine? A picture would be great, always looking for inspiration :) I'm not planning a stand, I'm going to try to keep it somewhat balanced so that it just sits atop the bucket, and stores fairly easily. Eventually I'll buy a prefab cabinet and counter top, cut a hole, and mount it for good. But that'll be in quite a while, after the walk-in cooler is done.
 
There's this one... just gotta wait and hope that eBay comes through... at 83 RPM , I'll need to boost the speed up 3:1 with sheaves... but it should be nice and torquey?
Gearing up isn't very ideal, gearing down gives you the mechanical advantage and in turn much more power. I think a 1/8hp motor will be fine but you are going to want one that is in the 1700rpm range so you can reduce the speed to end up with 1hp at the mill.
 
I think I get what you mean... 1700 RPM @ 1:8 Gear Ratio = 212 RPM @ 1 HP. 1:8 gear ratio is chosen because 1/8 HP / 1 HP = a factor of 8.

Did I do that right? OMG I'm remembering math skills?

So, let's pick numbers out of the air, say I buy a 1/5 HP motor that spins at 800 RPM, and I want to run my mill at the same arbitrary 212 RPM number. 800 RPM / 212 RPM = Roughly 1:3.75 Ratio. 1/5 HP * Factor of 3.75 = .75 total HP at the axle, running at 212 RPM.

Am I doing this right?
 
Actually you are increasing the torque not the Horsepower since HP is a product of the torque and speed. So the actual HP stays about the same (there are some minor loses in the reduction process) and the torque increases.
 
Dayton 6K722A Split Phase Motor HP 1/4 RPM 1725 - eBay (item 280263829925 end time Sep-11-08 18:20:04 PDT)
This one is almost exactly the specs you were mentioning, Tonedef. Tempting. It's $10 more than I wanted to spend on the entire project, but it is pre-wired and has a pulley sheave already on it. I would just need a belt, and a sheave for the mill.

Starting to wish I hadn't bought my Ranco earlier this morning... But don't wanna wait another 2 weeks to buy this, I really need to be motorized before I undertake the 999 Barleywine. I'm never gonna be able to crush 30 lbs of grain, twice, by hand.
 
Dayton 6K722A Split Phase Motor HP 1/4 RPM 1725 - eBay (item 280263829925 end time Sep-11-08 18:20:04 PDT)
This one is almost exactly the specs you were mentioning, Tonedef. Tempting. It's $10 more than I wanted to spend on the entire project, but it is pre-wired and has a pulley sheave already on it. I would just need a belt, and a sheave for the mill.
That motor would work great, but I don't know about the sheave. You might want to ask the seller what size it is, looks to be about 2.5" or so. If that is the case you are going to either be running your mill VERY fast or having a giant pulley on the mill.

You might consider calling an appliance repair shop or something like that and asking if they have something like that and offer them $20-$30.
 
I have an alternative for you. My ten year old gets a kick out of turning the crank on my mill so... detailed instructions:

1. Make a baby. If you don't succeed on the first try keep trying eventually you'll get it. This step does require assistance, your not going to succeed with just your own two hands. :ban:
2. Wait. Ten years seems to be the sweet spot to achieve the required speed/torque ability. Wait too long and your drive unit may react with scorn.
3. Grind.

Best of luck. :mug:
 
LOL. I'm not a kids person. SWMBO is mad at me cuz' I don't want the lil' buggers, ever ever. Yeccch is what I think of kids. :p

But hey, good news. ... after I eat some dinner. I'm starving.
 
All right. Sorry, I'm back. Pasta with meatballs, mmm mmm good. So I scored a motor at a local appliance repair store. Super cool, and super free. :D Thanks for the tip on that, it really paid off. It's a General Electric 5KH45DR364S, 1/3 HP at 1725 RPM. Suh-weet. It weighs a friggin ton, too.
n307400052_61920_3896.jpg
n307400052_61921_4161.jpg


So now I have some new questions!

Wiring. It has 5 posts on the end, and they're simply numbered, no other indications.

n307400052_61922_4418.jpg


Anyone know what the code is? I know that house wiring (Romex?) has a white, black, and a green. I'll buy a 3-prong extension cord to supply power from the wall to a light switch in a conduit box. From the box, I'll run straight to the motor? Should I use Romex(?) for this application, or more of the extension cord?
Edit: I found this little snippet on Mars Motor&Actuator in a PDF about the switch itself:
Mars # 08380 | GE Part # 719B264AA1 719B264AA1, AA2, AA3, AA5 | application for form R dryer motors

Mounting. Don't know how precisely I'm gonna do this, but I've got an idea. I figure I'll make a couple of 45-degree angle wood chucks, and then just Dremmel them down until they're curved to fit the body of the motor. Mount a chuck on either side. Then, two loops of Plumbers Wrap screwed into the board. Think that would work?

Physics portion. So this came with a 2" sheave already installed on it. At 1725 RPM, that means that I need to reduce my speed by a factor of 1:8 to 1:9 (actually 1:8.625 = 200RPM. 1:9 would reduce to 191RPM)..... So with a 2" sheave, I would need an 16 to 18" sheave on the other end, correct? Or, if I replace the motor's sheave with a 1" pulley, I would need either a 8" or 9" sheave. Am I doing this right?

Feedback? Error checking? Debugging? Slap me with a trout? ... Thanks!
 
Great job scoring a free motor, that thing is perfect. Did it not come with a mounting bracket? If it didn't that will be the hardest part to get right, wiring and power transmission should be pretty straight forward.

As for the wiring you can just use a pigtail lead off of anything, I had one from some old florescent lights. Obviously the green is the ground, then send the white straight though and break the black with the switch. If there is no leads off of the motor I am not sure how to hook it up though, an electrician I am not.

It is really going to be difficult to get the mill running under 200 rpm with that 2" sheave on there. You math is right, but keeping the 2" is actually less economical. A 12" sheave is like $28 through grainger, which would put you at about 230rpm with a 3L belt. Or you can buy a 1.5" for the motor which is $4 and a 10" for the mill which is like $22. So you spend the same amount of money either way but with the second option you will end up at a more desirable speed of about 190rpm.
 
I don't see a start capacitor also does this motor have a built in centrifugal start winding switch or does it use an external relay to enable/disable the start winding?
 
42R-E Series Parallel Shaft AC Gearmotor

Mine is the 0650. 170 rpm's and 45 inch/pounds of torque. A compromise between the rpm I wanted and the torque I wanted. I wanted a little more torque, but 115 rpm's was a little slow for me. And, this one was new.

42R-E Series Parallel Shaft AC Gearmotor Model 0650

Ebay-$70. couplings and spider-about $12, IIRC. There were some cheaper but I missed the auction closings, and then threw up my hands and paid a buy it now price on this one.
 
Kiltlifter: WTF is a swamp cooler??

The proper name is Evaporative Cooler. Works well in dry areas, but pumps in loads of humidity - thus the Swamp Cooler.

You really should check Home Depot for the parts, they have large and small pulleys and I bet they're closer to twelve bucks than 25.
 
All righty, getting back to this project now.... Was out of town for 4 days over the weekend of the 12th... I don't know about you guys, but any time I go out of town, I pretty much have to plan 2 days of catching up for each 1 day I'm gone. :p

I stopped by a couple stores last night, and picked up:
-24" x 24" x 3/4" plywood to reinforce the existing board, and to use part of to make the motor mounting platform
-2x 3" door hinges, for mounting the motor platform onto the main platform
-3/4" screws
-6' 3-wire replacement appliance power cord
-10' of plumbers' wrap / strapping.
-1.5" OD x 1/2" bore v-belt pulley
-10-12ga blade terminal connectors, for the motor

Also just ordered the rest of my stuff from McMaster:
-10" OD x 1/2" bore v-belt pulley
-3/8"ID -to- 1/2" OD bushing, to mount the 10" pulley

And once I figure out which box they're in, I've got laying around somewhere:
-Spare light switches
-Spare gang boxes

Physically assembling doesn't look like it'll be a big problem...... but electric wiring will. :(
 
Hmmm. Crap. Found this while searching... ( GE Electric motor wiring in The AnswerBank: How it Works ) ....

It isn't possible to use just two wires. It's a synchronous motor, originating from the USA. All six wires are necessary to feed its commutator and electromagnets.
What is the problem you are trying to solve?
It has six wires as it is coupled to an inverter, in order to allow it to run at various speeds and in both directions.
You would be better off taking a straight forward a.c. motor from a vacuum cleaner or tumble dryer or similar.

Crap. Anyone really handy with appliance repair? Am I screwed, and do I need a different motor? Dadgummit.


I don't see a start capacitor also does this motor have a built in centrifugal start winding switch or does it use an external relay to enable/disable the start winding?

Yes. I am under the impression that it is a centrifugal start winding switch. I think.
 
I think you are fine. The GE electric motor you linked to is a washer motor with variable speed. Are you using a dryer motor? I can not advise you on how you should wire it, but I am using a dryer motor. I was looking around on the internet and found a site that recommended connecting straight to the 4 and 5 terminals to test if a motor is working. I tried it with mine and the motor worked fine. I am going to use these two terminals when I wire mine up. Let us know what you do or if you find any other information on the wiring.
 
Well, I pulled off the switch, and found a lever connected to it, that indicates it is the built-in centrifugal type motor. I took it back to the appliance store and swapped them for another, this one from a dryer.

This one is a little weirder, it's an open frame motor. Still 1/3HP, FSP brand, Part no. 3391888, Model S58NXKRD-6294, 5.9 amp, 1645 RPM. Being open-frame weirds me out (e.g. safety), but he was able to tell me which wire to hook up to which post, so the project should be back on!

Now that I'm looking at the new motor, and reading your info T-Hops, I think I could've done just what you described. He's got me using the 4 and 5 post (4-Blue appliance wire- Black in home wiring, 5-white appliance wire, white in home wiring) and hooking the green to the body of the motor for earth ground. Now that I know this, I almost wish I had the old motor back, as i sized the drive pulley to its shaft, and this one is threaded instead of beveled. But it's nothing a Dremmel can't fix! Besides, this one with its square shape and open frame, will be easier to modify to anchor down.

I'll probably cut the board, and remove the existing pulley, tomorrow night. Hopefully the McMaster order gets here soon, too.
 
Mine sounds just like yours. I do have a shaft on both ends of the motor. I don't know yet which side I will have to use yet (direction of rotation). The one side had the dryer blower hooked to it and the other has the belt pulley screwed to it. I think when you unscrew the old pulley you will find a normal 1/2" round shaft with a flat closer to the motor. Good luck.
 
Chirso, I missed the thread at the beginning. If this doesn't work for you I would suggest using a gear motor. It took me about a month of watching ebay and going through the Bodine electric website but I came up with a 1/3HP, 9.6 to 1 ratio, output speed of 181rpm with 100 in/lbs of torque Bodine gearmotor for $24 plus shipping. The benefits are no pulley reduction needed, so both drive and driven sprockets are 2 " in diameter. It will start with a full hopper and wont bog down, its rated for continuous duty and its reversible. It's got a thermal breaker for overload protection(not that it will be needed for mill application). The model I found is 44c8bvdi-y2. This is the easiest option other than a 1/2" drill. Mine is a bit overkill as it will probably crush small stones , but any AC gearmotor with an output of 150-220 rpm and torque of 45 in/lbs should work fine with out the gearing mess of large pulleys. I'm waiting on my sprockets then the motor will be mounted between the scale and mill on my cart. Here is a pic of the cart without motor. In a couple weeks I will post the results.

EDIT: pic didn't go through, but its in my gallery
 
Zombie thread gets resurrection!
I am working on this project again. At last.

First up: I read in somebody else's Grain Mill build page that they initially used the swinging-motor-on-a-hinge method of attachment and were not satisfied with it, due to the motor "bouncing" during use and causing the belt to skip. Does anyone else have input on this issue? I had planned to use a hinged design in order to facilitate easy belt sizing, so that my measurements elsewhere would not have to be quite so exact. But I could work around that.

After posting here, I went upstairs and took apart my MaltMill and now I see how I need to attach it, so things look good in that regard. However I don't know how to go about building the structure of the mill station.

To an extent, I am thinking that I need to do a single wood platform, sitting directly atop the bucket, with a simple swing-down leg for stability. This does not satisfy my requirement to reduce grain dust (and corresponding allergies) but I do not think I am capable of building a cabinet, especially since I have virtually no proper tools (and what tools I have are all old, stripped, or poorly maintained, except for my trusty jigsaw).

Another issue I found is that my 3/8"ID -to- 1/2" OD bushing, between 10" pulley and MaltMill drive shaft, does not seem to 'grab' on the shaft. I have tightened the hex-head screw on the pulley itself, and that cinched the pulley and the bushing together, but it (the bushing) spins somewhat freely on the drive shaft. How do I attach all three at once?

I've snapped a couple photos of what I have in progress. Input & instructions are greatly appreciated!!

(Also, I'm quite glad that a few posts above I made note of the wiring information, or else I would be asking about that too!)

21883707435_ORIG.jpg


21883707413_ORIG.jpg
 
Sup y'all.

I'm still here, just like this thread is. I have an equal amount of cobwebs on me. :)

So the motor is still this:
"1/3HP, FSP brand, Part no. 3391888, Model S58NXKRD-6294, 5.9 amp, 1645 RPM"
Or, a Whirlpool/Kenmore clothes dryer blower motor. Just like this one

I'm working on figuring out the cabinet-or-table aspect of this. Trying to find a donor cabinet to cut into. So, with furniture on hold, I'm working on the drive aspect now.



If you recall, I was planning to go Pulley Driven. I have a small (I need to check my measurements but I believe it is 1.5") pulley already installed on the motor. And I have a large pulley (8" or 10", need to check this too) for the grain mill.

I bought a reduction sleeve to get the pulley (which was maybe 1/2"?) down to the necessary diameter (3/8?") for the grain mill.

This sleeve was not grabbing fully, it was causing the pulley to simply spin.

I torqued down the stay bolt far enough to put a crack into the sleeve, and then, on subsequent attempts, eventually broke a section OUT of the sleeve, turning it into a C-shape thingy.

The stay bolt now tightens down far enough to eventually grab the flat spot on the grain mill driveshaft.

However, I still need to figure out... belt tension... belt length/size & go buy one... motor mounting... and motor wiring.

But now that I look at it, maybe I should have bought a direct coupling instead?
3/8" bore hub, plus 1/2" hub, plus 1-3/4" OD Spider = $12 at McMaster...
 
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Pulley And Belt Information Calculator

I used this to figure out the belt length and pulleys required to get the right RPM. I had to use a 14" pulley. $12 on ebay.

The adjustable motor mounting I'm trying to figure out as well. I think I am going to make multiple plywood platforms to go under the motor, so I can adjust the tension by removing/adding levels. In my setup the motor is under the main table like Seabee John's.
 
PoppinCaps - Regarding the adjustable motor mounting - I just found a page last night that gave me some ideas - here is the link: Motorized Grain Mill

Looking at this pic:
0sQxw.jpg


One of the biggest concerns that I had previously read on forums, regarding the "swinging motor on a door hinge" design, was the bouncing, chattering, belt skipping that sometimes seemed to be inherent to the design.

This workaround as pictured should give you a variable tension mechanism, easily removable, easily adjustable, and cheap.

I already bought door hinges on the assumption that I would be designing mine pulley-driven, hinge-mounted.

The trickiest thing for my specific motor, though, is HOW to mount it.

The design is like this:
WIP5L.jpg

LpQvQ.jpg

3V2Pw.jpg


Failing to find anything else, I'm guessing that the "right" way to mount this motor would be to cut two squares of wood, cut a circular channel into each one, that will slide over the grey/blue plastic circular rings on the motor housing, and then attach the wood squares into the flat surface of the cabinet.

Did that make sense?

Does anyone else know how this "should" be secured into place?

Man, I suck at this stuff. Someone needs to revoke my man card, stat. (Oh wait, I'm pretty sure that was revoked a couple years ago.)
 
I made an illustration of what I was trying to describe.

If anyone sees an easier way to mount the motor, please say so. :)

4FA4t.jpg


PS. I freehand drew that using Adobe Fireworks. It's not 3D Rendered, so pls don't knock the uneven angles. Perspective is HARD to draw using a 2D illustrator. :fro:


I went ahead and started the V-Belt calculations.... here's the result so far. The 14" Center to Center Distance is an estimation, it will depend on the milling cabinet that actually gets built. My brother is going to work with me to figure out how to build said cabinet.

Is 246 RPM a little too high? Or still possibly "serviceable"?

RAsNU.jpg
 
I think 246 is good. I thought I had heard 300 RPM was fine and have seen some suggest 300-400, so I don't think 246 will be a problem.
 
It might help as well to see what v-belt sizes are available. I think they come in every 2 inches. Then you can set that belt size and see what the center to center distance will be. Makes planning the cabinet easier.

I like the adjustable belt tension on the hinge, but is there a way to really secure it at that tension? Maybe use a long bolt, and a nut on either end of the motor mount as well as the upper side of the cabinet base so you can really secure it at that tension moving and tightening both nuts on the two sides of the motor mount. Seems to me unless the belt is really tight, it will still bounce around a bit.
 
Sweeeeeet. Thanks you guys. For some reason I started thinking you wanted the RPM under 200, and got all nervous.

Good suggestion on how to size the belt, PC, much appreciated. Since I know "about" what size I need, I can pick that up, and as you mentioned, mark the final bolt holes correctly to account for the free play in the belt.

Regarding the adjustable tension, the way I'm looking at the photo, the belt will pull the assembly UP, the nut and washer snug the assembly DOWN, the result is that you put the belt under load, then tighten the nut until the two forces balance out. 's that right?
I suppose if the belt is really skipping/bouncing badly, the tensioner isn't going to compensate enough. But if it bounces that badly would it not likely suggest that the belt is improperly sized?

I'll post up some more pics later this week as we actually start building the enclosure.
I'm excited!! At one point, I was positive I'd never see this project come together.
Once I get this done, I can start pulling apart and leak-troubleshooting my multi-pressure regulator assembly! (Speaking of never ending projects!)
 
Here's what I did. My motor mounts have quite a bit of play, as they are about 2" long. So I'm securing the bolts while adjusting the tension. The belt has about 1cm of play when I push on it. Pretty tight. If it stretches I'll just slide the motor down a bit. Got a good deal on the 14" pulley, as you can see from the wobble. :(



Now I just need to get that Xmas mill installed. I'm getting the Cereal Killer, I'll let you know how it works. :mug:
 
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Very Interesting!!! You're doing pulley driven but still using a Lovejoy coupler to interface between the pulley and the grain mill, instead of mounting the pulley directly on the mill! I hadn't thought of that option.

Here's the broken bit of bushing sleeve that I was talking about earlier...

ZtxZp.jpg


When it's on the pulley, it looks like it should be that way! But when I remove it, it looks really nasty and jagged.

As long as the sleeve stays inside the pulley, when it's removed from the mill for hand-crank operation, then we should be all good.

I'm working on sketching up the cabinet right now, I picked up some studs and some hardboard at the lumber store the other day, and with any luck maybe I can build a cube like object tonight after work??

Edit: SketchUp Drawing completed!
x0QZ3.jpg
 
Here is where I'm at so far!

4QZJ8.jpg


Still need to sand down the hole where the milled grain passes thru, and then I need to cut the belt/pulley opening larger and mount the motor onto its' hinged platform, and mount the hinges onto the main surface. And do wiring. And test.
 
This is the label off of my exact motor, by the way:
LgdrW.jpg

Hilariously enough, I have NO IDEA why it appears to be upside down. The jpg file itself was right-side-up before I uploaded it.


Now. Time for Wiring.


I have part of it figured out, I think, maybe, at least a little bit. But I would really like a second opinion before I mistakenly burn my house down or anything.

Here is a picture of the contacts on the motor as well as the simple light switch I plan to control it with:
eFQJV.jpg


So on the far end, there is a 120V plug, the wires coming out are standard black, white, green.

Then the wire runs to the switch.
First; which wire gets switched? The black one?

Second; my switch has a green grounding screw on it. Should I ground the cord from the wall onto this? or should I not?

The wire continues past the switch box and on towards the motor. Once we reach the motor, per the appliance guy's instruction; the black wire will be connected to the #4 post (Blue appliance wire).

Likewise the white wire will be connected to the #5 post (Yellow or white appliance wire).

But I do not see any threaded holes or any screws where I could mount the green grounding wire to the motor.
(Whether I grounded the wire to the switch in the first place or not.)
Third, what do I do about this?
Where does the ground go? Do I need to drill a hole and hope I can thread a screw into it?
Do I connect up to the #3 post (Black appliance wire)? No? Never ever do that? Or risk great sadness?

Fourth question. Is it okay to go directly from
Code:
motor -> switch -> exterior cord -> Wall outlet
since this is a freestanding 'appliance'? Or do I really need to go
Code:
motor -> cord -> 120v outlet in a box -> wired to light switch -> exterior cord -> wall outlet
?

Fifth question. Moving on to the advanced course here. IS the motor of a type that can be run in both directions? How would I know that?
If yes -- and IF I wanted to make this reversible by using a three-way switch, how would I wire that?

Muchas Gracias in advance for your advice. :drunk:


Extra information in case it is helpful: Found on a random DIY forum from someone who appears to be familiar with these motors:
The little box is a thermal over load. The end of it that does not got to the coil is one line (usually hot), on terminal 4 (just a terminal). Ordinarily, the start button connects Neutral to the common (terminal 5) of the centrifugal switch, sending power to the run winding and through the NC switch terminal, to the start winding. When the motor achieves operating speed, the cenrtifugal lets the switch out, causing the switch to go from NC to NO (terminal 6), which gets neutral directly. You can, instead, connect neutral to T5.

Terminal 1 and 2 on the switch are to control power to the heater.

the other switch on the frame is likely a belt breakage switch. The belt tensioner would depress thatopening power to the motor in the even the belt were to break.
 
Things are coming together. More info in a minute. But first, my pressing matter at hand: The motor turns the wrong direction. How do I fix it? I tried reversing my black and white wire to which post they go to, but that did not do anything.

What do I do to try to switch rotational direction?? Or do I have to go back to the drawing board? How do I tell if this motor can't be reversed???

There is a loud click during start up and shut off, by the way -- it is a centrifugal start motor -- with no external capacitor. I'm not sure if that's important info.

Here are pictures -- first, of the wiring specifically, then after that my general progress on assembling this. :fro:





Additional pics:



Click to view full size.
 
Looking at the picture in post #35, reversing the motor may be as simple as reversing the motor. Since the drive shaft extends out both ends of the motor, spin that puppy around, move the small pulley/sheave to that end and your off to the races.
 
Yeah, without a capacitor, from what I've read I haven't seen a way to reverse the drive. Mine's the same way. I say flip it around too. It's been a while since I took electrical engineering, so of course I may be off base.
 
My aversion to rotating the motor is twofold:
One, I already cut the wires to-length and it will rotate the electrical connectors to the opposite corner, further out of reach.
And two, the motor does not have a flat on its' drive shaft on the other end.

A local brew buddy also suggested flipping my Maltmill upside down.
I haven't unbolted it to try it yet, but I'm thinkin' about it.
It's a two-roller, and it is not gear driven... it just might work. The bolt holes should be same thread, same spacing. I need to check whether it has the horizontal hole for the hopper screw.

Otherwise, you guys are probably right, fastest fix is to rotate the motor, and grind down the shaft to add a flat.
 
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