efficiency

Are there any general tricks or techniques to increase efficiency? or Is it all in the brewing procedure and temps? is it typically a simple brewing error that causes a lower efficiency? ever since i started all grain brewing i have noticed a 5% drop in mine. it may just be that its summer and hot and humid. could that be my culprit? -thanks cheers

First place to look is your grain crush..

What about ph? would the waters ph level effect it?

tally350z said:

First place to look is your grain crush..

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i have been getting them pre crushed either online or from my lhbs...

pH is a factor since the enzymes have an optimal range, that includes acidifying the sparge water. Do you fly, batch, or no sparge? The crush can make quite a difference so maybe your own mill could be your next equip addition.

mine fluctuates and i can only assume its the crush... i get it all pre-crushed (probably should invest in a mill) and mine jump around about 10%... annoying.

basilchef said:

What about ph? would the waters ph level effect it?

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Yes, but to a much lesser extent than crush. Crush is always the first thing to look at.

Denny said:

Yes, but to a much lesser extent than crush. Crush is always the first thing to look at.

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thanks, is it safe to assume i need my grains crushed MORE?

basilchef said:

What about ph? would the waters ph level effect it?

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It is indeed safe to say your grain might need to be crushed more. Aside from crush, the pH level is also a possible issue. Some cities adjust municipal water chemistry with the change of seasons. Another thing to consider is whether your LHBS has changed to a different malt supplier...

After grain crush and pH, look at your sparging technique.

Batch sparging is said to be less efficient than fly sparging, though on the homebrew scale that's not a huge deal. Also, batch sparging in two batches (each of half the total sparging volume) seems to get me better efficiency than throwing all the water in one batch sparge.

Remember that not every grain bill will get you the same efficiency. Wheat and other unhulled grains can stick together, which traps liquid and sugar, reducing overall efficiency. Rice hulls are usually the answer to this problem: a half pound in any mash with over 35% wheat.

One efficiency trick is to add a handful or two of rice hulls to every mash, even all-barley mashes.

Process is really important. Try stirring the mash once or twice, and stir the sparge really good if you batch sparge.

But crush is probably the culprit if efficiency changed all of a sudden. My buddy just got a mill. He used it first for a recipe he'd brewed like 4 times, including once the week prior (had to re- brew after the carboy broke). His efficiency was 65% for all the batches bought from the same store. After he crushed the grains in the new 3-roller, using the same process, his efficiency on the last batch was 79%.

Beyond that, pH and temperature would be next. Make sure you have an accurate thermometer and check your water source in one of the water spreadsheets or the nomograph for the beer you are brewing and the calculated pH.

shawnbou said:

After grain crush and pH, look at your sparging technique.

Batch sparging is said to be less efficient than fly sparging, though on the homebrew scale that's not a huge deal. Also, batch sparging in two batches (each of half the total sparging volume) seems to get me better efficiency than throwing all the water in one batch sparge.

Remember that not every grain bill will get you the same efficiency. Wheat and other unhulled grains can stick together, which traps liquid and sugar, reducing overall efficiency. Rice hulls are usually the answer to this problem: a half pound in any mash with over 35% wheat.

One efficiency trick is to add a handful or two of rice hulls to every mash, even all-barley mashes.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I did a wheat recently and it was closest to my normal efficiency. Must have been the rice hulls. I have been playing with my sparging technique for the last few batches, resulting in the conclusion that adding several small batches (instead of 1-3) is helping. Fly sparging is on my to try list next batch. Thanks for your input. Cheers

mthompson said:

Process is really important. Try stirring the mash once or twice, and stir the sparge really good if you batch sparge.

But crush is probably the culprit if efficiency changed all of a sudden. My buddy just got a mill. He used it first for a recipe he'd brewed like 4 times, including once the week prior (had to re- brew after the carboy broke). His efficiency was 65% for all the batches bought from the same store. After he crushed the grains in the new 3-roller, using the same process, his efficiency on the last batch was 79%.

Beyond that, pH and temperature would be next. Make sure you have an accurate thermometer and check your water source in one of the water spreadsheets or the nomograph for the beer you are brewing and the calculated pH.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply. I havnt checked or change my water ever. I had until recently never had a problem. I would like to get the necessary supplies to start doing that though. Not only will it fulfill my brew nerd craving but it will more importantly give me a better beer and a better understanding. any advice on what to buy,where, how much, and if there are anything I should look out for? -cheers

I wish I could do the opposite and bring my eff down. Up until now I have always used all grain kits from NB. last weekend my OG was supposed to be 1.042 on a dry irish stout. My actual OG was 1.056. 86% eff batch sparging.Now I will have to move to the next level and stop buying kits. Probably wont help but here is what I owe my effortless efficiency to....

I use local spring water with a PH around 5-6
Mill my own grains using "Barley Crusher" with factory setting gap. Grains are usually from Northern Brewer.
5 Gal igloo mash tun, I typically heat strike water to 180-185 , dump in igloo to stabilize temp 15 mins then adjust for strike temp.
60 minute mash 1.25 qt per lb of grain
No true mashout, just drain at 60 min mark
Split my sparge water into 2 additions.
First is around 180 or so to get me close to 170 but if Im short I dont care. Give it a stir and immediately drain.
Second is around 170, higher if I came up short on my first sparge. Give it a stir and immediately drain.
6.5 preboil. Typically I do around 3G mash, then 2.5G batch sparge X 2

I would recommend
1-Milling your own grains
2-Using a different water supply ie buy some spring water
3-Try using a different supplier for your grains
4-Checking your mash temp after mashing to ensure mash was at proper temp during conversion
5-Checking the calibration on your thermometer

+1 to Crush! Second batch sparge increased my eff from 67% to 79% on average. I feel pH is only an issue if you water is way out of wack. My mash is only getting into the 5.5 to 6 range but testing with iodine still shows full conversion. Also when checking your eff you need to be close to precise on how much volume you have. I noticed my OG's were all over the place until I made a measuring stick for my boil kettle showing near exactly how much volume vs. gravity I was looking at. I had some false highs because I under estimated how much wort I actually had. Make sure your gravity checks are at a temperature so you can get a good reading (read, cool your sample to room temp). BE CONSISTANT in what you do! It makes it easier to see where changes might be needed or where they might make a difference (I don't start drinking on brew day till it is going into the fermentor).

meat803 said:

I wish I could do the opposite and bring my eff down. Up until now I have always used all grain kits from NB. last weekend my OG was supposed to be 1.042 on a dry irish stout. My actual OG was 1.056. 86% eff batch sparging.Now I will have to move to the next level and stop buying kits.

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Dilute to correct OG, problem solved.

cadwallion said:

Dilute to correct OG, problem solved.

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Huge pain in the ass to adjust volume and gravity preboil. Post boil you would be throwing off your IBU's. Going to just use Beersmith to adjust grain bill.