Need advice on Coffin Keezer/Bar design

First post here and I'm going big. I have an idea for a coffin keezer/bar (Obligatory reference and respect to "Jester" here). It's somewhere in between Jester's model and "Cruelkix" bar keezer build. I have attached photos from google sketch below starting with the finished project and working backwards. I included all of these because I am neither a woodworking pro nor a google sketch pro, so if someone sees something that looks off I'd appreciate any input.

My idea would be to forgo the tower in favor of a serve-from-behind concept and extend the edges of the traditional coffin keezer to allow seating at the bar. I may wish to add a tower at some point and have left a space (where the black 12" x 18" bar mat currently sits in photo #1) although I still believe it would be a serve from behind concept. The current model has a collar and taps out the back. The top would be a laminate sheet cut to size. This is going to be made from a Kenmore 8.8ft chest freezer which I just got off craigslist for $100. I think this bar idea would allow five people to sit (three in front and one on each side)

Photo 1 - Finished front view
Photo 2 - Finished back view
Photo 3 - Sides finished
Photo 4 - Framed out
Photo 5 - Base and collar only

The things that are different, and that I'm wondering about, are many:

1. I live in an apartment and would like to be able to easily diassamble the keezer/bar to allow moving. My design contemplates that the plywood and support would not be secured to the top of the chest freezer but rather secured around the front of the chest and back into the collar which I believe would allow me to remove the screws from the collar to remove the top completely. (This hopefully can be seen in photo #4 as the 2x4 which goes across the collar) Of course the only way that this works is that the collar lifts up as part of the top. I would be permanently securing the collar to the lid rather than to the base. Then, the hinges would attach to the collar. My concern is the weight on the hinges, adding the extended bar top and the collar weight. From most of the reading on the forums it seems that the factory hinges are pretty strong. I would think that if it can handle the towers that I've seen it would handle the weight I'm talking about, with a prop of course. Any problems seen here?

2. The support for the bar is another concern. Currenty I contemplate two extended 1x4s running on top of the chest to the front edge of the bar. (which should be seen in several photos) Do you think that this will allow enough support for people sitting and leaning on the sides of the bar? I could move the current support beams inwards and place two more beams, one going to each side, if necessary.

3. I would have liked to put casters on this as well. Because I'm using it as a bar my guess is that it will be positioned in one spot and rarely, if ever, have to be moved. The reason that I didn't put casters in the design is that with the collar it puts the bar height closer to 45"-48" (depending on size of wheels) which I feel is too high for a bar. Thoughts?

4. Cooling. I have read posts that say that cooling is not an issue even without fans and have at least seen some posts that have several fans. I have 2" clearance on each side plus the back is open. The chest freezer has vents on one side and I was thinking of putting a vent into the wood paneling on that side but would love to avoid it if possible as it will detract from the look of the bar. Please let me know if you think that I need the vent, fan(s), or both.

Thank you for taking the time to read this long post and responding. These forums have been extremely helpful already.

Right now, it appears that your design has the hinges in the tap side, which necessitates keeping the ledge short so you dont hit the faucets. This also leaves the entire length of the top supported from that point.

As it shows roughly a quarter to a third of the top overhanging on the opposite side, I suggest putting the hinges on that side as well. This will counterbalance much of the weight, and allow you to change out kegs from the faucet side of the keezer. You may even be able to put some additional support under the lip of the top to support against the structure of the keezer frame.

Raenon said:

Right now, it appears that your design has the hinges in the tap side, which necessitates keeping the ledge short so you dont hit the faucets. This also leaves the entire length of the top supported from that point.

As it shows roughly a quarter to a third of the top overhanging on the opposite side, I suggest putting the hinges on that side as well. This will counterbalance much of the weight, and allow you to change out kegs from the faucet side of the keezer. You may even be able to put some additional support under the lip of the top to support against the structure of the keezer frame.

Click to expand...

Yes, the hinges are on the back where the taps are. I understand that I would have to be careful with lifting the lid so as not to damage the faucets although I believe I would have to lift it greater than 90 deg to hit the faucets. I think with the weight as my concern I will probably not be doing that. Most likely I would lift about 75 deg and place a prop to keep the lid up for cleaning and replacing kegs.

I do not think I can do what it is you are describing, if I understand you correctly, because if the hinges are on the bar front side (with the 12" overhang) then I have to put the chest freezer in backwards, or with the back of the freezer enclosed. I'm afraid this may cause the compressor to work too hard without the ventilation in the back. In the alternative, it would require me to put the freezer in as I have it (back facing out) but then move the hinges and drill into the front of the freezer.