American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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Gonna give this a whirl. I need a good, easy drinking house beer. All out if ginger beer from the summer
 
Here's after 3 weeks in the primary, and 5 days in the bottle. It definitely needs some more time in the bottle, but it has already gotten very clear - without any finnings, and tastes great (minus the yeast in suspension still - my impatience).

 
3 weeks in fermentor, 3 weeks in bottle. Clear enough to watch the tv through. Tastes very similar to the.anchor steam pale ale. Slightly too sweer for my tastes, but will go great for the company party I brewed it for.

Thanks for the recipe!

ForumRunner_20111119_170404.jpg
 
Just bottled mine. Going into the bottle it was literally crystal clear. I am very much looking forward to when this one is fair game in two weeks.

I have to admit, I siphoned off two pints of it during bottling, it was so good.

Now I'm worried I didn't make enough...
 
This is definitely going in the line up for future brews.

Couldn't I use WLP 051 for this or Wyeast 1056? I already have some of each and they both sound like they'll do just fine.
 
uncleben113 said:
This is definitely going in the line up for future brews.

Couldn't I use WLP 051 for this or Wyeast 1056? I already have some of each and they both sound like they'll do just fine.

You can. I think Ed suggests a dry yeast as a way to keep cost down some. I have done this with both 1272 and 1056, both came out good. 1272 was slightly preferred in several blind taste tests.
 
I have that yeast too. I was considering it but I'm still unsure. Can you pin down any differences in the two batches where you used the different yeasts?
 
The original recipe calls for 39 IBU, but when I plug the hop schedule into Hopville's calculator I only get like 30 IBU. Which should I shoot for, should I adjust my hops schedule to get 39 IBU or what?
 
BetterSense said:
The original recipe calls for 39 IBU, but when I plug the hop schedule into Hopville's calculator I only get like 30 IBU. Which should I shoot for, should I adjust my hops schedule to get 39 IBU or what?

Shoot for 39. I've brewed this beer a few times and ended up at 31 IBUs on one and around 38 for the others. The one's at 38 were just perfect...31 didn't have the same balance (I used different hops, too but just realized I also didn't use enough when I was looking at my notes yesterday.
 
Just kegged my batch. Came in at exactly 6% ABV.

Now I just have to be patient for a few weeks while it carbs!
 
Shoot for 39. I've brewed this beer a few times and ended up at 31 IBUs on one and around 38 for the others. The one's at 38 were just perfect...31 didn't have the same balance (I used different hops, too but just realized I also didn't use enough when I was looking at my notes yesterday.

Yeah I brewed this once and just followed the hops schedule listed in the recipe, but it came out rather sweet to my taste. Lots of people like it, but I was wondering which is supposed to be correct--the hops schedule or the IBU--because one of them is wrong.
 
Yeah I brewed this once and just followed the hops schedule listed in the recipe, but it came out rather sweet to my taste. Lots of people like it, but I was wondering which is supposed to be correct--the hops schedule or the IBU--because one of them is wrong.

It's designed to be a dry beer. What was your mash temp?
 
I do a 3-step, 3-hour mash. I really don't think it's under-converted, simply that it's not hopped enough (for my taste). It is still a hit...over Thanksgiving it was hands down the favorite of all the brews I brought.

I'm still kind of annoyed that the recipe states 39IBU but the hops schedule works out to like 30. It makes me wonder which one people do--follow the hops schedule or target the listed IBU--because that's a substantial difference. For the record, which is it supposed to be; 30 or 39?
 
If folks don't pay attention to the AA% of the hops used in the recipe, they can get lower IBUs if they use hops with a lower AA% or if their hops are old.
 
I do a 3-step, 3-hour mash. I really don't think it's under-converted, simply that it's not hopped enough (for my taste). It is still a hit...over Thanksgiving it was hands down the favorite of all the brews I brought.

I'm still kind of annoyed that the recipe states 39IBU but the hops schedule works out to like 30. It makes me wonder which one people do--follow the hops schedule or target the listed IBU--because that's a substantial difference. For the record, which is it supposed to be; 30 or 39?

When I put the recipe in BeerAlchemy exactly as Ed has it printed, I get 37 IBUs. Did you double check your inputs (wort volume, AA%, etc), because those can cause variations in the calculated IBUs. I have brewed this beer 3 times and hit around 37-40 IBUs each time with great results. With that said, if you didn't think that it was hoppy enough then you can raise the hop level the next time you brew this beer. The great thing about brewing your own beer is that you can change the recipe to meet your tastes.:mug:
 
When I put the recipe in BeerAlchemy exactly as Ed has it printed, I get 37 IBUs. Did you double check your inputs (wort volume, AA%, etc), because those can cause variations in the calculated IBUs. I have brewed this beer 3 times and hit around 37-40 IBUs each time with great results. With that said, if you didn't think that it was hoppy enough then you can raise the hop level the next time you brew this beer. The great thing about brewing your own beer is that you can change the recipe to meet your tastes.:mug:

Just an FYI, all my posted recipes were developed using TastyBrew.com on the full recipe calculation. I guess each recipe calculator can spit out slightly different results.

HausAleRecipe.jpg
 
EdWort said:
If folks don't pay attention to the AA% of the hops used in the recipe, they can get lower IBUs if they use hops with a lower AA% or if their hops are old.

Yep. All the cascade hops I've been getting are from 5 - 5.5% so I've had to adjust up. Looks like you got a healthy batch when you bought your hops. :)

Thanks, again for this recipe, Ed. I always have this one on tap...and i'm about to go AG because of the simplicity of this recipe (just built my cooler).
 
Until my Brew Magic conversion is complete, I'm partial mashing. Here's what I'm doing tomorrow:

% LB OZ Malt or Fermentable ppg °L
40% 3 0 Briess Pilsen Light DME 44 2
27% 2 0 American Two-row Pale 37 1
27% 2 0 Vienna Malt 36 3
7% 0 8 Crystal 10L 34 10

use time oz variety form aa%
boil 60 mins 0.5 Cascade leaf 8.9
boil 45 mins 0.75 Cascade pellet 6.4
boil 30 mins 0.5 Cascade pellet 6.4
boil 15 mins 0.25 Cascade pellet 6.4
boil 5 mins 0.25 Cascade pellet 6.4

White Labs WLP001 (need to use it before it expires)

Mash the 4.5 lbs of grain in 6 quarts of water at 152 for 60 minutes. Sparge twice with a gallon each for 2.5-3 gallons of preboil volume.

Hop schedule was tweaked a bit due to the lower AA% on my pellet hops and for the partial boil. I'm planning on adding the DME with 15 minutes left in the boil. Hop schedule look alright for the desired 39 IBU outcome? Beer Calculus is showing 40.5 calculated IBUs, but doesn't account for a partial boil or late DME addition.

Anything need to be changed?
 
Until my Brew Magic conversion is complete, I'm partial mashing. Here's what I'm doing tomorrow:

% LB OZ Malt or Fermentable ppg °L
40% 3 0 Briess Pilsen Light DME 44 2
27% 2 0 American Two-row Pale 37 1
27% 2 0 Vienna Malt 36 3
7% 0 8 Crystal 10L 34 10

use time oz variety form aa%
boil 60 mins 0.5 Cascade leaf 8.9
boil 45 mins 0.75 Cascade pellet 6.4
boil 30 mins 0.5 Cascade pellet 6.4
boil 15 mins 0.25 Cascade pellet 6.4
boil 5 mins 0.25 Cascade pellet 6.4

White Labs WLP001 (need to use it before it expires)

Mash the 4.5 lbs of grain in 6 quarts of water at 152 for 60 minutes. Sparge twice with a gallon each for 2.5-3 gallons of preboil volume.

Hop schedule was tweaked a bit due to the lower AA% on my pellet hops and for the partial boil. I'm planning on adding the DME with 15 minutes left in the boil. Hop schedule look alright for the desired 39 IBU outcome? Beer Calculus is showing 40.5 calculated IBUs, but doesn't account for a partial boil or late DME addition.

Anything need to be changed?

I would get rid of the 45 min addition and just up your 60 min until you reach desired IBUs.
 
Made a 1.5 liter starter on Saturday for a White Labs WLP001 that MrMalty put at 35-37% vital based on bottling date. Took it off the stir plate, chilled, poured off the liquid, warmed up to room temp, and then dumped in a fresh 1.5 liters of wort onto the yeast. That should get me up to enough healthy yeast to brew later this week.

MrMalty said to use two vials for anything less than a 2L starter, hence the step up with one vial.
 
I just bottled this last night. I was a little worried it was going to be too hop forward for me. My cascades were 7.5% so I dialed them back a bit and also did a first wort hop addition. The sample seemed a bit malty and the hops were not too much at all. It was already tasty, I can't wait to taste it in several weeks when everything comes together.
 
Barnstormer said:
I just bottled this last night. I was a little worried it was going to be too hop forward for me. My cascades were 7.5% so I dialed them back a bit and also did a first wort hop addition. The sample seemed a bit malty and the hops were not too much at all. It was already tasty, I can't wait to taste it in several weeks when everything comes together.

I've been using 8.9% cascades and also dry hop. My 2011 crop is less so I'll have to up hopping.
 
I brewed this the 2nd time yesterday but I intentionally let it get to 1.055 instead of 1.051 and I added 1 ounce at 60 minutes and 1 ounce at 30 min of 6.4% cascade.
 
Just finished bottling it. The sample I tasted was quite yeasty. I've used Notty before, and this was probably the coolest I've fermented it. Stayed at 65-66 the whole time. I guess we'll see after a few weeks in the bottle.
 
Just kicked off the boil and first hop addition. :ban:


Decided on this hop schedule since my boil volume was a bit higher than normal with all the wort from sparging:
boil 60 mins 0.75 Cascade leaf 8.9
boil 60 mins 0.5 Cascade pellet 6.4
boil 30 mins 0.5 Cascade pellet 6.4
boil 15 mins 0.25 Cascade pellet 6.4
boil 5 mins 0.25 Cascade pellet 6.4
 
Missed my gravity by a few points, about 1.044...sample is tasty. Pitched a large amount of yeast from my volcanic starter. Hoping to put this into a keg within 10-12 days.
 
Brewed this beer Thanksgiving morning and just today moved it into a keg. I popped the lid on the fermenter and what do I see ? A dead bee floating on top. It must have landed in the wort at some point and I never saw it.

Maybe it will impart a slight honey flavor to the beer. :mug:
 
It is Bee Cave Haus Pale Ale - looks like you did it right! :mug:

Brewed this beer Thanksgiving morning and just today moved it into a keg. I popped the lid on the fermenter and what do I see ? A dead bee floating on top. It must have landed in the wort at some point and I never saw it.

Maybe it will impart a slight honey flavor to the beer. :mug:
 
Shuznuts said:
Just finished bottling it. The sample I tasted was quite yeasty. I've used Notty before, and this was probably the coolest I've fermented it. Stayed at 65-66 the whole time. I guess we'll see after a few weeks in the bottle.

I fermented low, too...about 65, also. I'm actually still fermenting (letting it go a few extra days). I've read that Nottingham does well in that range. How many days did you let it ferment in primary?
 
n8dagr8 said:
I fermented low, too...about 65, also. I'm actually still fermenting (letting it go a few extra days). I've read that Nottingham does well in that range. How many days did you let it ferment in primary?

14 days
 
Shuznuts said:

Hmm...hopefully it fades.

Just for my own knowledge, you hit your final gravity? I'm being lazy about taking a gravity ready and it sounds like you and I brewed close to the same batch.
 
For some reason I haven't gotten around to brewing this one yet. Thanks again, Ed! I entered the recipe in BrewSmith and for an American Pale Ale my SRM came in at only 4.6. The style is 5.4 - 14. Now I'm no stickler for being exactly to style. But has anyone bothered to maybe use Caramel 20L instead of 10L?

8 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 76.2 %
2 lbs Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 2 19.0 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.8 %
 
MikeRoBrew1 said:
For some reason I haven't gotten around to brewing this one yet. Thanks again, Ed! I entered the recipe in BrewSmith and for an American Pale Ale my SRM came in at only 4.6. The style is 5.4 - 14. Now I'm no stickler for being exactly to style. But has anyone bothered to maybe use Caramel 20L instead of 10L?

8 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 76.2 %
2 lbs Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 2 19.0 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.8 %

I had the exact same thought after I entered it into Beersmith. But I am still doing extract boils so I am sure my color will be darker than that.
 
For some reason I haven't gotten around to brewing this one yet. Thanks again, Ed! I entered the recipe in BrewSmith and for an American Pale Ale my SRM came in at only 4.6. The style is 5.4 - 14. Now I'm no stickler for being exactly to style. But has anyone bothered to maybe use Caramel 20L instead of 10L?

8 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 76.2 %
2 lbs Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 2 19.0 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.8 %

I added 1/4 pound of Melanoidin to get color within style guidlines. Turned out great! I am sure switching to 20L caramel would be fine too, I just happened to have extra Melanoidin on hand.
 
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