question on MLT manifolds

Morning all-

So, I am in the process of building out equipment for AG. I have a 48 QT box cooler that I am converting, and was originally planning on building out a copper manifold. Copper is very expensive now! I do have a 10' length of 1" copper from another DIY project, but will need to buy reducer Ts and some 1/2" to complete.

I am thinking that I might be able to buy all the materials for a complete CPVC manifold and sparge arm for the same or less than the copper that I need.

Question- for those that use CPVC manifolds-are you happy with it? Have you used copper before, and if so, what do you prefer?

Are there any ill effects from using CPVC? Do you use a different joint weld cement? Do you even bother or do you just slide it together?

I know exactly what I am doing with copper, and have worked with PVC before a lot, but never on something that would be touching a comsumable.

thx in advance!
markfitz

CPVC is acceptable in my area for cold and hot potable water supplies. I understand it endurs continuous temps of up to 180dF and does use a special cement. I've seen CPVC-specific cement at the home store. I personally wouldn't have any reservations about using it, but I also have not tried.

Keep in mind, the pipe will lengthen by 4% with a 100dF temp increase.

Bobby

Good call on the expansion-I would not have thought about that much increase when heated. I guess I will have to check it out as an option.

Are you going batch sparge? If so then the only thing you need is a stainless steel braid.

That is option 3. I did not mention that. I have a braided hose from another DIY that I can salvage. In the beginning, I will just be batch sparging, but once I get a true HLT built, I want to go to sparge.

The stainless braid is a known quantity, so I was just trying to compare copper against CPVC. The winner goes against stainless braid in the title round!

The braid worked great for me in my (first) mash; never even thought about getting stuck. The only minor issue is that it does want to float a little, so I've got to figure out how to weigh it down. If you already have the braid, I'd use that before going to the trouble of making a manifold.

I am going to check it out tonight. I am trying to find the right nipple to make the bulkhead for the cooler. The end that they mold at the factory for a spigot is very thin, and I wanted to use a stonger wall, so I put it on the other end, through the thicker foam, so that it will offer more support. Problem is that the thickness is right between bits that I had already purchased, so I need to get another one. Once that is done, I will be ready to go.

the_bird said:

The braid worked great for me in my (first) mash; never even thought about getting stuck. The only minor issue is that it does want to float a little, so I've got to figure out how to weigh it down. If you already have the braid, I'd use that before going to the trouble of making a manifold.

Click to expand...

Been thinking about using the braid method but have an idea that might solve your problem as well. Instead of rolling the end to close off the braid, I thought of just inserting a 1/2" copper pipe cap and clamping down with a stainless hose clamp. That ought to add a bit of weight to the end to fix your floating problem. If not, I suppose a 316 grade SS bolt would work too.

Bobby

Bobby_M said:

Been thinking about using the braid method but have an idea that might solve your problem as well. Instead of rolling the end to close off the braid, I thought of just inserting a 1/2" copper pipe cap and clamping down with a stainless hose clamp. That ought to add a bit of weight to the end to fix your floating problem. If not, I suppose a 316 grade SS bolt would work too.

Bobby

Click to expand...

Nice one-that sounds like a good idea. I was wondering about the best way to close off/weight it.

Looks like I am making a stop tonight to buy more stuff!

OK, so i have cleaned the flex faucet tube that I had, and now I am left with the stainless braid (gotta love portable bandsaws). I like the idea for its simplicity, but has anyone who used it noticed any collapsing? My plan is to hose clamp it to a copper coupling, and clamp the open end around a copper end cap. (thx to Bobby_M for that)

No issues with collapsing during my (one) mash. It's pretty sturdy. Even hitting it with the spoon a lot (since it was floating), it didn't deform at all.

I used PEX tubing, brass corners and "T"s, stainless braid, stainless hose clamps, and 3/8ths vinyl tubing to make a MLT drain assembly. PEX is cross-linked Polyethylene, and it is rated to 200*F. I used the stiff white PEX in 3/8ths ID. You can get PEX in flexible rolls too, but they only sell big rolls at Home Depot. The flexible red PEX is what is usually used for radiant floor heating. A five foot length of the stiff white PEX was perfect for making the manifold for my Igloo Ice Cube.

There are four parallel sections connected at either end to a transverse section cut in several pieces. Two T's in the middle of the transverse lengths connect the inner pair of the four parallel sections, and corners at the end connect the outer two parallel sections. I drilled holes in the four parallel sections and encased them in stainless steel braid. I used SS hose clamps at every corner or T fitting to PEX junction to secure the tubing. Normally, PEX tubing is crimped to the brass connectors with copper compression bands, but the crimping tool cost $99, so I used SS hose clamps. A third T fitting on one of the end pieces connects the PEX manifold via vinyl line to a hose barb screwed into the inside of the 1/2 inch NPT bulkhead fitting.

Yeah, I know, a picture is worth a 1000 words, but the words were easier to post.

It works great. No clogs, drains as fast or as slow as you want, controlled by the ball valve on the cooler.

It was expensive and tedious to build. I don't really recommend it for those reasons, but it does work very well, and there's absolutely no way it's going to clog up. The PEX is very cheap. The brass corners (four of them) and T's (five of them) and stainless braid (from a washing machine hose) contributed almost half the cost, The 20 or so SS hose clamps cost $22, as I recall. They are like $10,95 per bag of 10. All in all, it cost me a rediculous amount of money at Home Depot pricing. I could have soldered up a manifold out of scrap copper tubing I have on hand for next to nothing, plus the cost of the T's and corners.

OK, so I am going with the stainless braid for now. I had a braid from a water line that I had leftover from a DIY, so I picked up a 1/2" nipple, a brass full flow ball valve, a female thread to 1/2" compression fitting, and a small length of 1/2" copper tubing, stainless washers, along with some stainless hose clamps and a copper end cap. Didn't get a chance to take any pics, but I will try to tonight. Actually went together pretty well. I did forget to get the O-rings, so I need to pick them up. The hose assembly is hose clamped on the valve end to a piece of 1/2" copper tube angled to the deck of the cooler. the tube then goes into the compression fitting that is threaded onto the nipple. On the other end of the braid, I hose clamped a copper end cap into the tube (thx for that Bobby_M).
Hopefully, it all gets put to the test this weekend.

[url]http://www.electronicsurplus.com/commerce/catalog/product.jsp?product_id=69883&czuid=1160084511689Really cheap copper[/URL] (thanks to another board for the link)

You won't need 60' for this but pick it up while you can. Right now it says one is in stock.

FYI- just started my first AG, and float is still an issue, even with the cap in the end of the braid. Need t o remedy that before the next batch.