ebay aquarium temp controller build

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I'm not sure about the accuracy of my digital to get an accurate temp to adjust to. I'm just using my $15 one from Walmart I use for the bbq. Now I have the probe taped to the outside of he bottle with bubble wrap, hen a folded paper towel. Should I put my bbq thermometer in with the probe and then adjust the temp in F4?

well if you don't have a known-good thermometer, then it's kinda pointless, but yeah, you'd go either add or subtract the difference your probe is reading vs. actual. So if actual is 17 and probe reads 15, you'd set F4 to 2.0
 
You can adjust the temp of the controller. It's the F4 setting.

I'm not sure about the accuracy of my digital to get an accurate temp to adjust to. I'm just using my $15 one from Walmart I use for the bbq. Now I have the probe taped to the outside of he bottle with bubble wrap, hen a folded paper towel. Should I put my bbq thermometer in with the probe and then adjust the temp in F4?
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=doCiABEOzTE

Watch it. Great video for how to create a PROPER ice bath and calibrate your thermometers. If your STC-1000 doesn't read 0.0 in the ice bath, you need to adjust F4 accordingly.

[Edit] To stir the probe in the ice bath, I tape it to a wire hanger or something to stiffen it up.

[Edit No 2] STC-1000 probe doesn't update as fast as a thermapen (from the video). You need to leave it in the ice bath longer to get an accurate result.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=doCiABEOzTE

Watch it. Great video for how to create a PROPER ice bath and calibrate your thermometers. If your STC-1000 doesn't read 0.0 in the ice bath, you need to adjust F4 accordingly.

[Edit] To stir the probe in the ice bath, I tape it to a wire hanger or something to stiffen it up.

[Edit No 2] STC-1000 probe doesn't update as fast as a thermapen (from the video). You need to leave it in the ice bath longer to get an accurate result.

I def don't have a thermapen, but thanks for the great video! I started to notice my controller was about 1.3* off and low and behold?!? My digital thermometer read about 31* using the proper ice bath technique! So the temp controller is probably more accurate than my thermometer. Thanks!!
 
I ordered the 110V version of the STC-1000, and was happy when it arrived, only to open it up and find the 220V version shipped from China. (I wasn't as dissappointed at first, as I didn't have my freezer yet - but just found a great deal on Craigslist and picked up my 7.2 cu ft one yesterday... Now I'm more dissappointed I don't have the correct temp controller!). Anybody have much luck returning one and getting another one in its place? They claim I ordered the 220, but I have a screen capture of the title of the item saying 110 - although buried in the details/specs it does say 220 - so the title must be a misprint, but that's what I was going off of when I purchased it. Anyway, I'm waiting to hear back from them to figure it out... Just wondering if anyone here has had a similar experience. I figure if nothing else, I'll just buy another one (110, obv) and try to sell the 220 myself...

Just built the "light bulb in a paint can" heater last night, so now the last piece of the puzzle is the controller!
 
FatsSchindee said:
Just built the "light bulb in a paint can" heater last night, so now the last piece of the puzzle is the controller!

Not to digress from the STC-1000 too much, but one question regarding this "heater can", for you with more electrical knowledge than I (probably just about everyone):

Did I wire the ground in a good spot (see pic)? I used this DIY tutorial:

http://brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html

He edited it to recommend using a grounded plug, which I did... But he didn't say where to attach the ground wire. From reading up online what I could, it seems it should go on to any metal part that could get possibly touched by the hot wire. Most examples said a metal J-box that the light fixture attaches to, since the lamp assembly is plastic... So I figured the metal pancake box would be equivalent in this instance. (Some said just cap the ground wire and disregard, but obviously this would defeat the purpose of having it, no?)

As you can see in the last pic, it works fine... But I just wanted to make sure this was correctly done, and that I didn't set myself up for a "shocking" surprise in the future (sorry, had to)... Thanks.

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That is a great ground location. If the hot wire broke loose it would contact the base and thus the can. Found wire to the base or can and shocking discoveries are nearly impossible.
 
jeepinjeepin said:
That is a great ground location. If the hot wire broke loose it would contact the base and thus the can. Found wire to the base or can and shocking discoveries are nearly impossible.

Awesome, thanks... That's what I was hoping to hear. It seemed right, but I have little electrical experience and just wanted to make sure. One doesn't want to just guess with these things. Cheers!
 
Hi all,
I have gotten through over 100 pages of this thread and haven't really found a wiring diagram that directly relates to what I want to do. I am sure it is here, but I am hoping to take the easy route and have some check this diagram I created. Does this look right to have one outlet switching both the hot and the cold and another wired to be always on?

STC-1000 Wiring.jpg
 
Hi all,
I have gotten through over 100 pages of this thread and haven't really found a wiring diagram that directly relates to what I want to do. I am sure it is here, but I am hoping to take the easy route and have some check this diagram I created. Does this look right to have one outlet switching both the hot and the cold and another wired to be always on?

Yes that looks fine. Essentially you just wire the always-on outlet like normal but use wire nuts to "borrow" from the same wires so you can wire the controller.
 
I'm finally wiring up my STC-1000, using the info in this thread, the " EBay fish tank controller build using Wal-mart parts" thread, and the YouTube video by trytodiyguy that is often referenced. Quick question:

Does it matter how the neutral wires are connected, just as long as the one from the power cord, the STC (input #2), and the unbroken neutral side of the outlet are connected? I don't really think it does, as I've seen it two different ways in some of the wiring diagrams and how-to posts... But just want to make sure in case, so I don't do it the wrong way.

The one way has the neutral in from the cord attach to one post of the outlet (sometimes wire-nutting two wires to do so), and then another neutral wire from the other post (unbroken jumper on that side) into input #2 on the STC. The other way has three separate neutral wires wire-nutted together - one from the cord, one from one (either) post of the neutral, unbroken side of the outlet, and the third from input #2 of the STC. I currently have it wired the latter way (as per the "Wal-mart parts" thread, but just re-watched the video and he has it the former way.

Am I wronging thinking that it shouldn't matter, and would work the same either way? (Obviously not the case for the hot wires!) Thanks for any quick response. Time for me to take a break from the project for a bit anyway... And surf the latest HBT chit-chat! Cheers...
 
Finally built my Temp controller last night. Can't wait to get this thing hooked to my fridge now and get a batch in there to taste the difference in temp controlled fermentation vs throwing it in the closet and let it go ;)

After building this thing last night I want to order another one and build it again ;) it is crazy how easy this thing was to put together and how cheap that controller is.
 
These are always dual stage controllers? So there is always a cold and a heat? I just need to keep my freezer at a certain fridge temp. But i would like additional outlets so i can plug in a fan (on all the time)...and i want to plug in a light, with an auto switch, so it only turns on when i open door
anyone can help me ?
 
These are always dual stage controllers? So there is always a cold and a heat? I just need to keep my freezer at a certain fridge temp. But i would like additional outlets so i can plug in a fan (on all the time)...and i want to plug in a light, with an auto switch, so it only turns on when i open door
anyone can help me ?

There are single-stage variants of these. I accidentally bought a few a while back. WILHI makes them. Find one of those and you can easily wire it so you have an additional set of outlets for "always on" power, and if you have an auto-switch, you could wire the light. Ill see if I can find a link for you.
 
These are always dual stage controllers? So there is always a cold and a heat? I just need to keep my freezer at a certain fridge temp. But i would like additional outlets so i can plug in a fan (on all the time)...and i want to plug in a light, with an auto switch, so it only turns on when i open door
anyone can help me ?

The controller would be the only "off the shelf" part of a total solution, and frankly decent controllers don't get a lot cheaper than the STC-1000. I wouldn't go out of my way to get the WillHi unit and give up the second stage.

Either way, when you wire up the controller, you can put it in a hobby/project box, add a duplex outlet (or two, even) and there you would wire up the outlets to do your bidding. If you want an "always hot" outlet, no biggie. If you want two outlets that are hot with the first stage relay, again, no biggie.

For the interior light, a mercury switch and a low voltage lamp attached to the lid liner would probably be easiest to implement. This would require a low voltage source - a five volt phone charging wall wart would suffice. The mercury switch could be salvaged from a low-tech room thermostat, or sourced from Amazon for around $7, for instance. A 6V lamp and holder shouldn't be too hard to track down...

Cheers!
 
Thanks guys. It seems like the STC-1000 would give me a TON of options. I am planning on just running everything in to fridge through the same holes that the freezer lines go in. They are huge, with plenty of space as long as i knock out the foam filler. Then i would just have the project box on the side or back of the fridge. For the lights, i was thinking LED rope lightning. ( the type you can cut at any length) And i found the door switch online. If i added another outlet to the project box, would i be able to plug things on top of bar into it, like a lamp or a slot machine?

WHen the time comes I probalby will need some help with the wiring. THanks guys!
 
These are always dual stage controllers? So there is always a cold and a heat? I just need to keep my freezer at a certain fridge temp. But i would like additional outlets so i can plug in a fan (on all the time)...and i want to plug in a light, with an auto switch, so it only turns on when i open door
anyone can help me ?

Here's one that may have what you are looking for.

He basically wired it so that he would have 2 plugs for cool, 2 plugs for heat, and 2 additional plugs that aren't connected to the controller. Pretty self explanatory if you look at the box ;)

As far as the auto-switch, that one might be a little trickier.
 
ok, i also found a fan w a heat sink...can i put this whole thing inside the fridge box, or does the heat sink need to be outside, to dissipate the heat?

fan w heat sink.jpg
 
Brewcephus, i was thinking for the light, you would just plug it in to the always on, and have the switch where the door closes, so it pushes it when it closes and pops up when open. It would be separate from everything else. Am i wrong?
 
Brewcephus, i was thinking for the light, you would just plug it in to the always on, and have the switch where the door closes, so it pushes it when it closes and pops up when open. It would be separate from everything else. Am i wrong?

That sounds like it would absolutely work. That's pretty much how a refrigerator light works anyway.
 
Can one of these be used to regulate heat? I have a 275 gallon oil tank I use as a smoker. I have been wanting to automate the temp regulation for awhile I've thinking of using an air mattress pump I have and one of these to turn it on and off as needed to maintain temps?
 
Can one of these be used to regulate heat? I have a 275 gallon oil tank I use as a smoker. I have been wanting to automate the temp regulation for awhile I've thinking of using an air mattress pump I have and one of these to turn it on and off as needed to maintain temps?

They can regulate heat, but I think they only operate up to 99C, which is a bit low for most BBQ. You might be able to adjust the probe calibration to cheat the temp up a little, 10C IIRC, but at that point you might start running into issues with the temp rating of the probe.
 
These are always dual stage controllers? So there is always a cold and a heat? I just need to keep my freezer at a certain fridge temp. But i would like additional outlets so i can plug in a fan (on all the time)...and i want to plug in a light, with an auto switch, so it only turns on when i open door
anyone can help me ?

This might be off topic for this thread as it doesn't use a external box, but I wired my STC 1000 to take the place of the thermostat in the fridge, so the light still works as normal. All you need to do ( with an old analog refrigerator) is find an "always hot" wire to power the STC 1000, and remove the original thermostat and wire the cold relay contacts in its place. This also requires building in the unit, but it looks better that way.

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Did anyone use, or think of using a 3-position rocker switch in order to bypass the temp controller? I have a spare refrigerator that I'd like to use as a fermentation chamber when I'm fermenting, but I'd also like to use it as a regular refrigerator when I'm not. Instead of unplugging things all of the time, I'd like to have the rocker switch power straight to the receptacle in the 1st "on" position, and send power through the temp controller in the 2nd "on" position, while still being able to power everything off in the middle position. I found a 3-position mini rocker switch rated for 15amp/250v. Do you think this would work?
 
It sounds like it would, but why? I've used my kegerator to ferment in. I just adjust the temp to my desired and pull the kegs out for a couple days. The temp controller goes back to kegerator temps after I pull the fermenters out. No need to unplug anything and you'll have a more accurate temp control when you're using it as a refrigerator. Even build it straight in to the door if you want.
 
It sounds like it would, but why? I've used my kegerator to ferment in. I just adjust the temp to my desired and pull the kegs out for a couple days. The temp controller goes back to kegerator temps after I pull the fermenters out. No need to unplug anything and you'll have a more accurate temp control when you're using it as a refrigerator. Even build it straight in to the door if you want.

Yeah, there is no unplugging for me. I just hold settings, then hit the arrows to my desired temp and then hit power. Done.
 
Yeah, there is no unplugging for me. I just hold settings, then hit the arrows to my desired temp and then hit power. Done.

This is a refrigerator/freezer combo (a regular standup refrigerator). With the temp controller, the freezer would essentially be a waste. So, being able to bypass the temp controller to use the thermostats that are built into the refrigerator would be ideal during times when I'm not fermenting.
 
I'd still do a permanent controller like above in the door. No switch necessary. Just wire the controller to the refrigerator portion and leave it. I'm a proponent off the KISS method.
 
After thinking about it, you are right. I'll look into wiring it directly into the refrigerator, keeping the freezer portion running normally. Thanks!
 
The STC-1000 just got cheaper, again. I'm loving this. :D

http://amzn.to/16NXgvz

It's hard not to justify getting one of these, or more of them, in many of our cases. Hell, fridge starts freezing everything? Don't pay for expensive repairs or get a new one, just put a STC back there, set it and forget it. Love these things.
 
I threw this together today. 18.60 for the controller from amazon. $12 Box from home depot. , 1.50 Each for the plugs, $7 for the cord. An hour on the mill at work, and viola! My temperature controller, keeping my porter at a steady temp....hopefully!


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Curious question for those using these with fridges with freezers:

Does the freezer continue to kick on when in use? I set it to 21.5 degrees Celsius and it seems that the freezer keeps kicking on preventing the temperature from ever setting correct. What am I doing wrong?
 
Most refrigerators only have one compressor. Top/ bottom fridges use the "excess" cold air from the freezer to cool the fridge. If your compressor keeps turning on, I would check the temperature settings first, then the other parameters in the controller. Then the wiring. If it is hooked up like mine is, the fridge doesnt even get electricity untill it is above the set temperature+variance. You may have some wires crossed, somewhere.
 
Just finished my build and tested it. Everything works!!

On question, i used an 18 awg cord from and old computer to wire this. Should I try to get some 14awg wire?

I am running a 5cf chest freezer and a personal space heater.
 
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