Double IPA Dogfish Head 90 Minute Clone

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I have yet to use the TF malt and I compared my last batch side by side with original DFH 90 and it was great.
Only place I could get it was ordering online and I didn't want to do that/ needed it asap.
The LHBS told me amber malt is amber malt and I would not be able to tell any difference.
not sure if that is BS but it did turn out just fine every time I have made it.
 
Tried this one about a month ago. I doubled the recipe to be a 10 gallon batch. Not sure where I went wrong but it kind I looks milky.

I mashed for 60 minutes hit all my temperatures. Batch sparged for 15 minutes. Then boiled for 90 minutes. With a hop addition every 10 minutes. Herms coil cooled the wort and pitched yeast starter wl007. OG was 1.088. This was a washed wl007 yeast but it took right off and had no problems fermenting. Added half the dry hops at two weeks and the other half at three weeks.

Kegged yesterday FG was 1.011.

Maybe it will settle down in a few weeks. Do you think it filtering would help?

Thanks

Oh and it tastes pretty good though. Gonna compare tomorrow the the real thing.

image-3775751943.jpg
 
I am drinking one right now. Mine came out crystal clear, I used a couple drops of biofine when I racked to secondary for dry hopping. It's been a while, 3 or so years since i had a 90 min but this is definitely a great substitute. You can't tell its 9.5% until you try to stand up. BTW this was bottled maybe a week and a half ago, has a little carbing to go but is plenty enjoyable as it is.
 
Wow that is milky. Not sure why. Maybe like you said it will settle down after it chills a while. Was it kegged? If so maybe it was just yeast settled and after a few glasses will clear up?
 
I kegged up mine last Friday and gave it a few tries over the weekend. It needs more time to carb up well, but it is quite tasty. Beautiful color. I'll try to post a picture tonight. VERY strong Amarillo/grapefruit flavor! The amber malt also provides a very unique malt flavor. Mine started out at 1.084 and finished around 1.014 or so -about 9% abv.
 
Tried to upload a pic via phone to show how clear it is, used a couple drops of biofine when moved to the secondary for hopping. It's very clear. I thought i was detecting a slight funk to my batch, it might be in my head because i know it got hot. I am drinking one warm glowing to exaggerate the flavor, but im not picking it up, maybe it was the extra days in the bottle...... Either way this is a mighty fine recipe.
 
Brewed a version of this last night - finished about 2am!
Used Marris Otter and Bairds Amber malts.
Hops were Amarillo and Simcoe as this recipe stated and added every 10 minutes during the 90minute boil.

My mash was a little too cool - around 63C (145F).

Used two packs of s04 in a 3.2L starter 2 days earlier.

OG after pitching starter was 1.090 but I only had 17L, not the 20L that I should've ended up with.....hmmmmm

Checked on it this morning at 7am - so only 5 hours later and the fermentation is going really well.

Can't wait to see how it turns out :)
 
Last Saturday we had a little dinner party and taste comparison. My 90 vs. the original. I used my own Cascade hops instead some of the hops that the recipe called for. Basically mine had more flavor, body, aroma and strength. The orignal 90 tasted watered down by comparison and no hop aroma.
 
Well I don't know what happened (actually I think I do). I just brewed this beer and came in way low on my OG at only 1.054. I had much less boil off then I had setup in my beersmith so I ended up with way too much pre boil and didn't even boil off what I thought I would. So what would you folks suggest I do? Should I add a little DME to the batch? How much would you suggest and in what gravity (how much water).
Thanks
 
Another "What do I do? " question...

My buddy and I brewed this recipe last weekend. Ended with an OG of 1.084 and pitched i smack pack of WYeast 1098 - Dry Whitbread.

The fermentation was very active for 72 hrs and it seems almost inactive right now (i'm sure yeast is doing its job).

Mean while, I was reading through other posts on why my Wheat IPA has such low attenuation.
I read that SG > 1.080 will need 2 smack packs of WYeast 1098 - Dry Whitbread if no starter was used.

Now, I'm worried... Do I need to pitch in more yeast (its been in the fermenter for 4 days) ?
 
Another "What do I do? " question...

My buddy and I brewed this recipe last weekend. Ended with an OG of 1.084 and pitched i smack pack of WYeast 1098 - Dry Whitbread.

The fermentation was very active for 72 hrs and it seems almost inactive right now (i'm sure yeast is doing its job).

Mean while, I was reading through other posts on why my Wheat IPA has such low attenuation.
I read that SG > 1.080 will need 2 smack packs of WYeast 1098 - Dry Whitbread if no starter was used.

Now, I'm worried... Do I need to pitch in more yeast (its been in the fermenter for 4 days) ?

I wonder what others will say here.
I know you under pitched as you need a starter or min of 2 yeast packs for this brew.

but I have added extra yeast in later and had no issues, but I wander what others will say.
 
Well I don't know what happened (actually I think I do). I just brewed this beer and came in way low on my OG at only 1.054. I had much less boil off then I had setup in my beersmith so I ended up with way too much pre boil and didn't even boil off what I thought I would. So what would you folks suggest I do? Should I add a little DME to the batch? How much would you suggest and in what gravity (how much water).
Thanks

I added too much water once as well and just kept boiling till it was down to my level I wanted it.
It didn't affect the taste either in my opinion.
but yes you could have added more DME to boost that back up before pitching yeast.
but I know you probably did what you where going to do by now,
so let us know what you did do so we can all wait and see how it turns out. :tank:
 
Scottlland, Thanks for sharing this recipe i can't wait to brew it!

QQ though: I've spent about as much time as i have reviewing the thread and i don't see anything related to BIAB. As i don't have any experience with All Grain but want to try it i think BIAB is the way to go.

So i do understand all the ingrediaents are the same, but as for the mash time and sparging....Any differences there you could point out (or anyone else with BIAB experience).

Thanks in advance!
 
edg1979 said:
Scottlland, Thanks for sharing this recipe i can't wait to brew it!

QQ though: I've spent about as much time as i have reviewing the thread and i don't see anything related to BIAB. As i don't have any experience with All Grain but want to try it i think BIAB is the way to go.

So i do understand all the ingrediaents are the same, but as for the mash time and sparging....Any differences there you could point out (or anyone else with BIAB experience).

Thanks in advance!

I brewed mine BIAB, and assumed that I would get a lower efficiency, so I bumped up my malt bill...ended up overshooting my OG, came in at pretty close to 1.1! I would still bump up the grain bill but maybe by a pound, depending on your efficiency. Also, make sure your bag is strong...that's a ton of grain, and you wouldn't want the bag to split while you're suspending it over the kettle. I used a retired aluminum brew kettle with a steamer basket to place my grain bag n while it drains. Other than those things, pretty straight forward. Came out delicious, I AB'd it with the real thing, and I thought it was a lot better. I didn't trust my judgement (everyone thinks their kid is the cutest) so I brought some to the local craft beer bar, and the owner and bartenders universally agreed that mine was better, via blind taste test.
 
Thanks for the advice, too bad I already picked up the grain :(. I'll stick with what I have for this one, too much going on to run back to the hbs.

On another note, how long did u mash and did you use the same temp guidelines as the AG recipe?

As for the bag I bought a bunch of that Swiss voile stuff and designed a bag to fit in my kettle with an integrated bungee at the top and seams reinforced with cotton webbing. My neighbor is a seamstress so she's gonna sew it up real nice for me. I think it will work well....fingers crossed!
 
Thanks for the advice, too bad I already picked up the grain :(. I'll stick with what I have for this one, too much going on to run back to the hbs.

On another note, how long did u mash and did you use the same temp guidelines as the AG recipe?

As for the bag I bought a bunch of that Swiss voile stuff and designed a bag to fit in my kettle with an integrated bungee at the top and seams reinforced with cotton webbing. My neighbor is a seamstress so she's gonna sew it up real nice for me. I think it will work well....fingers crossed!

I did the same mash time and temps! There are some online calculators that will help you pinpoint your strike temperature based on the temperature and amount of grain.

On a side note, when I brewed this batch, I didn't even have a proper bag yet! I just used a sheet of voile held in place at the top of the steamer basket with steel binder clips, haha.

I honestly wouldn't worry too much about the grain bill. Maybe mash a little longer with a few stirs. Check the gravity towards the end of the boil, and if it seems too low, add some DME. I think you'll be fine!
 
Newbie question. I'm planning to brew the partial mash version of this recipe. I've read through most of the comments to learn what I can. I remain curious about the amount of LDME. Could someone help me understand how 9.5 lbs is needed in this brew? I'm not questioning that it's correct, I just want to understand what's involved. Thanks!
 
I have run this recipe through 2 different calculators now, and keep coming up with IBU of 150+.
Is this correct? I see from the Dogfish head websit it is listed at 90. And the original recipe here lists 90.
What am I missing?
 
Hey guys, i have done this recipe 2x partial mash and it has turned out Fantastic!:D Now i have moved into the world of All Grain. SO i know this is a fairly basic question, but like i mentioned I'm a n00b.... How much water are you adding per lbs of grains? I'm think 1.25-5 qt per lbs... but this will be my second AG attempt so any advice would be helpful. It seem like a 152 temp is the ideal mash temp. and finally, should i stop my sparge once i hit the 7 gal mark?

Thanks in advanced!

-All the Way!

Rob
 
Hey thanks finbar! I'm actually like 30 mins into the mash, man I'm really testing out the limits of my 30 qt kettle with this grain bill! Right at the top!

So I think I'm gonna just let it go about 75 mins at 150 with some stirs (I'm really babysitting this) and see where I'm at then. But I can't really test the gravity since the kettle is so full. I'll have to pull it out to test and then I can sparge to get the extra sugars.

Oh and btw, my buddy who drinks a lot of beer but has never brewed came up with a great idea...use a cupcake backing sheet ( the one with the cups) to measure out your hop charges! Use cupcake wrappers in first so they're easy to pull out (that was my addition to the idea). This seems like a real easy way to keep it all organized and separated. Shout outs to Brett on that one!

Happy brewing!
 
Brewed a 10G batch of this on Saturday - it was my second AG batch and my buddy's got a few more AG under his belt. Was our first day with new equipment, including a converted keg mash tun and a pump.

Missed our OG by a few points - came up with 1.076 instead of the target 1.082. However, I think this is because we're a little green and didn't really get the sparge temperature right. Our sparge was pretty close to the mashing temperature - 154ish - we didin't hit the high 160's like we should have. I'm not sure these few gravity points are going to count for all that much though. We know for next time!

We did lose quite a bit of volume though. We used about 18G of water, but only 8G went into our fermenters - we figure we lost at least a gallon getting the pump to work. We kept losing siphon and having to re-prime the pump, and in the process losing some wort each time. So we learned our boil kettle now needs a ball valve too!

We split the wort between two carboys, each getting about 4G. We have an interesting experiment going with this batch - I made a twice stepped up starter of Wyeast 1098, and he pitched two dry packs of US-05. According to the conversations we've had at work, our visible fermentation action has been about the same. We shall see how the flavor differs in a month or so.

Hopefully this recipe turns out well. I love DFH 90, it was my first keg when I got a kegerator and I finished a 1/6th by myself in a little over a month. Saving approximately $70-80/keg would be great, even if this comes out 3/4ths as good!
 
After a week in the fermenter I checked the gravity of this beer and it was at 1.022-1.023. Last night I checked it and it was about the same.

How low has anyone been able to get this to ferment out? I know the original recipe states about 1.017, however I'm about .005 off from that now. I'll admit I don't have the experience to know how that's going to affect the final product. I pitched a twice stepped up starter of Wyeast 1098, first to 1L then to 1.5L. Should I repitch to try and get a few more points out of this? During the conversion we did hover around 156 for maybe 15 minutes while trying to get the temperature down, but we were at 154 or a little less for most of the 90 minute mash. Could this be contributing to the high gravity?

The hydrometer samples smell of the TF Amber Malt, and it's got the same smell as a spent bottle of 90 minute - so I know we're at least in the same neighborhood here!
 
Just transfered my DFH 90 min AHB extract clone to secondary after 10 days in Primary. Taste was fantastic, had that malty backbone of the DFH 90.-OG came in @1.090 and FG 1.021 / Pitched two vials of British Ale 005 @ 70 degrees. Without a doubt the most aggressive fermentation I have seen temp got up to 74 was a bit worried. Literally popped the lid on the side letting out krausen. I attached a blow tube. I will never brew without one. Airlock not ok with the big iipa's.
Crushed Grains:.5 lb 2 row malt, 1.5 lb Brown malt
Extract: 12lbs extra pale extract
hops for the 90 min every 7 min additions: 1/2 oz warrior, 2 oz Amarillo, 3/4 Simcoe
I did add at the last 15 min the AHB alcohol boost which is primarily corn sugar 14 oz (why? I like the kick lol)
Secondary dry hop: 1 oz Amarillo, 1/4 oz Simcoe, 1/2 oz Warrior
 
Funny you mention the kick!

I did mine as my first BIAB batch and my efficiency was bad so I threw in about a half pound or so of table sugar and that got it going for sure. I pitched a starter of 2 US-05 packets and the fermentation was decent but only for a couple days but it definitely worked!

I finished out at 10.5% ABV and it tasted and smelled great! Can't wait till its ready to drink, just bottled it on Saturday.

I also cold crashed it for 3 days and it cleared up very nicely.


Thanks for posting the recipe!
 
Moved this to secondary today after 3 weeks in primary, and my gravity is still in the 1.021-1.023 range.

Smells of TF Amber malt, almost sickeningly sweet. Hope this turns out. Getting discouraged here..
 
Hey Donnie-

Did you check your F.G?? Give it some time. I have several medals from beers that I thought I would have to throw away!
A beer like this requires a few weeks to a month after fermentation to fully mature.
 
Moved this to secondary today after 3 weeks in primary, and my gravity is still in the 1.021-1.023 range.

Smells of TF Amber malt, almost sickeningly sweet. Hope this turns out. Getting discouraged here..

I am in the same situation. The OG was 1.083 and active airlock for 72 hrs and then nothing.

3 weeks later I have consistent FG of 1.025. There was very little bitterness (not sweet tho') with strong notes of the amber malt.

Dry hopped with amarillo. Will throw the simcoe in this week and keg next week.

Hope it turns out drinkable.
 
yeah, i'm in the same boat too. I just bottled mine last week. I tried one yesterday and it was very malty; the hops wer good and strong but it was definitely too malty.

My fermentation was very similiar as well, i had an OG of 1.090 and pitched a 2 pack of US-05 (starter) and only had activity for a few days then nothing but my final gravity was like 1.010-1.020 can't remember exactly but very low. ABV turned out at 10.5%!

Hoping that the sweetness is a result of the priming sugars and it will go away over time in the bottle. Without that flavor it would be a great beer i think, We'll see.
 
Kegged my AHB extract DFH 90 min. Was a bit worried as the fermentation got a bit hot plus lid popped up a bit pouring some krausen out of the sides. Taste was very green day one after force carb. After day 6 in keg it has taken on that DFH taste for sure. Malty still has a nice hoppiness. Packs a wollop as I have the ABV @9.4%.
 
I am in the same situation. The OG was 1.083 and active airlock for 72 hrs and then nothing.

3 weeks later I have consistent FG of 1.025. There was very little bitterness (not sweet tho') with strong notes of the amber malt.

Dry hopped with amarillo. Will throw the simcoe in this week and keg next week.

Hope it turns out drinkable.

I found the source of the high FG. My thermometer was out of cal. Was off by +11F !!
So, I really mashed at ~162F making the sugars un-fermentable.

Beer smelt and tasted ok while kegging. Should be ready for tasting in a week.
 
I found the source of the high FG. My thermometer was out of cal. Was off by +11F !!
So, I really mashed at ~162F making the sugars un-fermentable.

Beer smelt and tasted ok while kegging. Should be ready for tasting in a week.

If the sach temp was 162F then would expect a much higher FG than 1.025 for a 1.083 OG.
 
Em... could it be because I did not preheat the mash tun (which was sitting in the garage @ 50degF) and dropped ~10 degF by the end of 90min mashing.

After adding all strike water and stirring thoroughly the resulting mash temp will be achieved before putting the lid on the mash tun. How much dead space was left in the mash tun? 10 degree F drop seems a bit high even with 50F ambient temps.
 
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