Pro's and con's of extract addition timing?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gartj

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2008
Messages
83
Reaction score
0
Location
New Hampshire
I read some recipes that say to add extract and boil for 60 minutes then others that say to add at 15 just for sanitation. What are the pro's and cons of when extract is added. I've always done my additions in the beginning but have noticed that for the recipes that call for larger amounts of extract its harder to reach boil. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.
 
It's doubtful (and debatable!) that your extract needs any sanitation. A 15 min boil is considered a safe time to boil and kill off any bacteria to your extract but I've seen video's on YouTube where they don't boil water/extract w/o any ill effects.

If you are adding bittering hops that needs an hour of boil time in some kind of sugar water. If you are adding your own hops, search for "late addition extract" threads.
 
The idea of a late addition of extract is to: 1) increase hop utilization, 2) decrease carmelization, and 3) lighten the color of the final beer.

You need to add some extract at the beginning (the reaction with the bittering hops requires some extract) - you can get by with 1/3 to 1/4 of the total extract and then add the rest at the 15 or 10 minute mark.

I did this a few times and it worked well, for what its worth. It definitely improved the quality of my extract batches.

Good luck,

Jim
 
The last couple batches, I've put in half the extract at the beginning of the boil, and half at 15 minutes before the end of the boil. For purposes of hops utilization and keeping the color of the beer a little lighter...my extract batches tend to be darker than the recipe calls for otherwise.

Hopefully that last one will be the last extract batch anyway.
 
I gotta quit posting after drinking and not eating, I'm not sure if you're talking about pre-hopped extract or just late-extract addition.
 
After steeping my specialty grains I will add 1 lb DME in about 3 gallons of water and add my bittering addition to that. According to Beersmith I am hitting my IBU's to appropriate style guidelines with approx, 1 oz of bittering hops (of course depending on AA%).

As for the late addition of the majority of the DME at 15 minutes definitely makes the beer lighter. I advocate boiling everything even if it is for a short time (with the exception of aroma hops), so I normally will not add DME at flameout, but some without any ill effects.
 
WARNING!! Usage Police on the prowl!

There is no need for apostrophes in either "Pros" or "Cons." Apostrophes either indicate possessives or contractions, neither of which is the case here. They are simply plurals.
 
For my batches I boil 45 mins then remove the pot form the burner then add in the DME and steep for 15 mins to pasteurize the DME. :D

HB Bill,

You do add some DME for Hop Utilization/Isomerization correct?

BTW I don't know if you remeber a PM I sent you about bulk extract purchasing. I have yet to speak to my LHBS, but they started carrying Munton's so I am brewing my Stout recipe w/Munton's opposed to Briess this time to see if there is a big difference in the finished beer.

Funny enough they cost the same in 1 lb and 3 lb bags that they sell?

Which means if they sell Munton's for the same cost as Briess bulk it might be a good deal, but they don't have it listed on their site yet.

I also tried to find some info about Munton's Spray malts on their website. Briess uses some crystal/caramel 60L and Munich in their Amber, but I could not find what additionl grains, if any, Munton's uses. Do you happen to know?
 
WARNING!! Usage Police on the prowl!

There is no need for apostrophes in either "Pros" or "Cons." Apostrophes either indicate possessives or contractions, neither of which is the case here. They are simply plurals.


But multiple exclamation marks are fine.
 
HB Bill,

You do add some DME for Hop Utilization/Isomerization correct?

BTW I don't know if you remeber a PM I sent you about bulk extract purchasing. I have yet to speak to my LHBS, but they started carrying Munton's so I am brewing my Stout recipe w/Munton's opposed to Briess this time to see if there is a big difference in the finished beer.

Funny enough they cost the same in 1 lb and 3 lb bags that they sell?

Which means if they sell Munton's for the same cost as Briess bulk it might be a good deal, but they don't have it listed on their site yet.

I also tried to find some info about Munton's Spray malts on their website. Briess uses some crystal/caramel 60L and Munich in their Amber, but I could not find what additionl grains, if any, Munton's uses. Do you happen to know?
Yes, I do add some DME/grain equivilent. Sorry if it looked like I just boil water for 45 mins without any malts.

I try to keep the ratio even, say 2 gals of water and 2 lbs of DME (3 lbs of grain is about 1.8 lbs DME equivilent).

I got these ratios from Papazian's TCJOHB Hop Utilization Chart and have been using them for years. It states 1 lb of DME and 1 gal water gives you a gravity of 1.040...2:2=1.040.:D

Yep, I remember the PM. They should be able to order a 55# box for you. If 1# and 3# are the same per # then they're ripping you off for pennies. I HATE (and I don't use that word a lot) businesses that rip off their customers. They're scum in my book.

I only get the Wheat and Extra Light DME now. Any other colors come from grains. :rockin: My local HBS (50 miles away) charges only $5 more than what I get when shipped, but without the shipping and waiting so I don't mind paying the extra.

Not sure of the make-up of Munton, but I'm very satisfied by what I get/use.
 
Yes, I do add some DME/grain equivilent. Sorry if it looked like I just boil water for 45 mins without any malts.

I try to keep the ratio even, say 2 gals of water and 2 lbs of DME (3 lbs of grain is about 1.8 lbs DME equivilent).

I got these ratios from Papazian's TCJOHB Hop Utilization Chart and have been using them for years. It states 1 lb of DME and 1 gal water gives you a gravity of 1.040...2:2=1.040.:D

Yep, I remember the PM. They should be able to order a 55# box for you. If 1# and 3# are the same per # then they're ripping you off for pennies. I HATE (and I don't use that word a lot) businesses that rip off their customers. They're scum in my book.

I only get the Wheat and Extra Light DME now. Any other colors come from grains. :rockin: My local HBS (50 miles away) charges only $5 more than what I get when shipped, but without the shipping and waiting so I don't mind paying the extra.

Not sure of the make-up of Munton, but I'm very satisfied by what I get/use.

Yeah, I have fallen into that same category of WHEAT and EXL DME, with the exception of stouts, I have been using amber for color purposes.

I may forgo my LHBS, I spoke to another homebrewer here in my town that is on HBT, and he thinks our LHBS is pricey as well. I asked him if he gets most of his ingredients and supplies on-line, and he does.

He did bring up a great point that I agree with though, if you need something in a pinch it is nice to have a LHBS nearby.

Thanks again HB Bill, see ya round!
 
Yes, I do add some DME/grain equivilent. Sorry if it looked like I just boil water for 45 mins without any malts.

I try to keep the ratio even, say 2 gals of water and 2 lbs of DME (3 lbs of grain is about 1.8 lbs DME equivilent).

I got these ratios from Papazian's TCJOHB Hop Utilization Chart and have been using them for years. It states 1 lb of DME and 1 gal water gives you a gravity of 1.040...2:2=1.040.:D ...

Will just steeping specialty grains and adding the extract at the end, allow for enough hop utilization? That's what I have been doing and my beers have been pretty good. Should I add a bit of the extract at the beginning after I steep to get the utilization up?
 
Back
Top