Electric plans for Brew Shed

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sdsferraro

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Salisbury, MD
My wife bought me a shed kit for Fathers Day. I have it half put together. It is 10x10 and I have planned the layout. I need a little help or thoughts. My wifes grandfather is an electrician and will be helping me wire it. I am planning on going all electric soon. I believe that requires a 50 amp breaker? I need a 15/20 amp for lights, 15/20 amp for plugs, and a dedicated 20 amp for fridge. Anything I am missing? Or is any of this overkill? Any suggestions are appreciated! I am leaving the keezer inside, it has its own room... next plans are for the electric brewery.

Thanks
Danny
 
My wife bought me a shed kit for Fathers Day. I have it half put together. It is 10x10 and I have planned the layout. I need a little help or thoughts. My wifes grandfather is an electrician and will be helping me wire it. I am planning on going all electric soon. I believe that requires a 50 amp breaker? I need a 15/20 amp for lights, 15/20 amp for plugs, and a dedicated 20 amp for fridge. Anything I am missing? Or is any of this overkill? Any suggestions are appreciated! I am leaving the keezer inside, it has its own room... next plans are for the electric brewery.

Thanks
Danny

Hi Danny,
I just did a 12 x 18 shed on my property and it ended up being cheaper to do a 100amp main breaker panel off the 200amp service in my house. You can run aluminum or copper out but, it allows you to do so much more! I put a small 240v electric heater in the shed along with a window ac unit, and I'm adding 240v electric brewing to the shed.... That with the power tools, etc... The one off panels seemed to be a bit more pricey. You can go subpanel but, I preferred to have the ability to shutoff the main in the shed to do work without running in the house. Refer to your local electrical code requirements also. I had to install ground rods outside the shed to isolate the ground from the house, etc...

Enjoy your about ground man cave! :rockin:

I can take some photo's of my setup if you would like!
 
horric29 said:
Hi Danny,
I just did a 12 x 18 shed on my property and it ended up being cheaper to do a 100amp main breaker panel off the 200amp service in my house. You can run aluminum or copper out but, it allows you to do so much more! I put a small 240v electric heater in the shed along with a window ac unit, and I'm adding 240v electric brewing to the shed.... That with the power tools, etc... The one off panels seemed to be a bit more pricey. You can go subpanel but, I preferred to have the ability to shutoff the main in the shed to do work without running in the house. Refer to your local electrical code requirements also. I had to install ground rods outside the shed to isolate the ground from the house, etc...

Enjoy your about ground man cave! :rockin:

I can take some photo's of my setup if you would like!

If you don't mind pictures would be great. I will pm you my email address.
 
deadboy said:
Make sure it's 50a GFCI. May as well do it right from the start, unlike me :)

Hmmmph, I have a 30 amp, one 5500W at a time (still have to build the control panel to control that function). I was just going to put a 50 amp spa panel right after the 30 amp breaker as the gfci function dosnt care about amperage. Ideas? Thoughts? Lessons learned?
 
I'm not an electrician. I guess my question is wouldn't you want to pair them? 50a in the box and in the spa box?
 
Nope, I def. didn't want to. The guage of wire for 50amp is quite a bit more expensive than the 10 guage for 30amp.

The gfci function still functions 30a vs 50a.
 
Forgot to mention, I also went with the 30 amp cable with gfci built into the cable. Much cheaper!
 
Forgot to mention, I also went with the 30 amp cable with gfci built into the cable. Much cheaper!
Than what? And with what design and reliability?

IMHO - This is not a game of 'expense'. It is a game of 'You Bet Your Life'..

Just saying.

You decide. I'm done...
 
When you are running electrical more is always better. A couple years from now if you want or need additional capacity it is a costly PITA to upgrade the service.
 
P-J said:
Than what? And with what design and reliability?

IMHO - This is not a game of 'expense'. It is a game of 'You Bet Your Life'..

Just saying.

You decide. I'm done...

I decided on this based upon many builds here where folks have done the same thing. I found the link for the gfci cable here on HBT. If it isnt reliable, its simply the cost of a 30 amp gfci breaker to replace the 30 amp breaker that I had sitting around... There are some folks here that dont even use any gfci... Im not entirely sure where the 'You bet your life' comes from. Gfci is gfci... My breaker could fail just like the cable could. If you think the cable isnt as reliable, thats your argument with the manufacturer... Using your diagrams PJ in my box, with all the fuses, estop, etc, I think Ive taken an adequate level of caution...
 
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