Need confirmation on direct fire rims equipment list

I'm all electric now, but I really like the idea of not having my mash recirculating through a coil or rims tube. Also I'm building a brewtree and don't want to incorporate my herms into it. Here's my herms now https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/herms-coil-iced-tea-pot-334090/ which has worked well.

Here's my shopping list:
1. HONEYWELL VR8200A2132 GAS VALVE
2. HONEYWELL Q314A3547 PILOT BURNER
3. HONEYWELL Q390A1046 thermocoupler
4. Low pressure burner from agrisupply http://www.agrisupply.com/Burner-Cast-Low-Pressure-Multi-Hole-Btu-Dia/p/40282/&sid=&eid=/
5. LP regulator http://www.agrisupply.com/Lp-Gas-Adjustable-Regulator---Hose-Assy-Hose/p/41678/&sid=&eid=/
6. 1/4 o.d. copper from hardware store for pilot
7. whatever copper or pipe or hose to get from regulator to gas valve
8. carbonmonoxide detector
9. transformer http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/showitem.cfm/ROBERTSHAW_620_403 or http://www.powerstream.com/ac-2405.htm I have a outlet wired into my ssr/pid so the second option would work bet for me.

Few questions:
1. Not familiar with how to adapt the regulator end to pipe. Are regulator and burner ends npt? Is the regulator I listed proper for this use? I know it has to be low pressure.

2. Is there a particular way to use a pid? I have ssr setup on a pid already and a inline thermo which could read the wort temp as it leaves or enters the mash tun

3. Is a needle valve on the pilot necessary? I'll be brewing in my basement so no wind.

I guess I'll chime in since I just ordered most of this stuff... I'm still in the pre-build process though, so I might not be able to answer a lot.

For one, I ordered these pilot burners Q314A4586 per another thread that I found using the same valves and thermocouples. Though to be honest, I'm not sure what the difference is between those and the ones you have listed.

The valves have 1/2" NPT threads on them and come with an adapter for 3/4" on the input side. For the output, it's also 1/2" NPT and you'll need to adapt that to however you want to hook up your burners. The orifice on the burner is (I believe) a 3/8" flare fitting. You can use flexible gas line ($$), or get a cheap flare tool and some flare nuts to use soft copper.
I can't really answer you on the regulator however as I went with natural gas.

For the PID, I don't think you'll want to use the SSR anymore. Since the PID is set up to fire the SSR in fast intervals for your heating element, your gas valve won't be happy with that. You can most likely configure your PID from SSR mode to Relay mode and use the relay to send the 24VAC from your transformer to the valve. I bought the Auber SYL-2362, which seemed pretty ideal for a gas setup like this.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=106&zenid=ac546abdcb009286cd0b15165a8ec59d

I don't really think you'll need a needle valve for the pilot as you'll be running the pilot tubing from the Honeywell valve and there is a pilot adjustment screw on there. You'd really only need a needle valve if you're running your pilot straight from the supply line.

Thanks for the response krazydave. Did your vr8200 come with lp conversion for the pilot?

Just read through my auberins manual. I pretty sure I'm ok if I set it to AT=0. My model is 2352 btw.

Also I'm debating on getting a valve for after the vr8200 and before the burner to dial in the precise heat. Did you go this route?

Yeah, it came with all of the LP conversion stuff.
I do actually have valves on each burner for fine adjustment and I would suggest that. I know the regulator you listed was adjustable, so if you do get a valve after the honeywell, you could just get a fixed pressure regulator.
I'm not sure where you want the LP pressure to be at though, I think I recall reading that it should be less than 11" W.C. but couldn't be certain about that.

That's what I heard too. That's converts to .5 psi.

Does the valve have to be a needle valve after the v28200?

I don't think it does, I just used them because I have Blichmann burners and they have a kit for NG conversion which includes the valve and orifice.
I've seen people use ball valves and even cheap gate valves.