help wiring stc-1000 inside fridge

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jmc922

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Looking for help wiring STC-1000 directly into the fridge? Looking for some input before I start cutting wires. Attached is the wiring diagram for the fridge. I'm only using one stage so pins 5 & 6 will be empty. 3 & 4 are my sensor. Will my controller be hooked up correctly if I take the wires labeled

(smooth black) as my hot wire and connect to pins 1 & 7
(black white) as my neutral wire and connect to pin 2
(brown) as my compressor wire and connect to pin 8

Any input would be great. Not very good at reading these diagrams

View attachment bevair fridge wiring diagram.pdf
 
If brown is the hot wire for the compressor then you would be correct. Just make sure you wire the neutral wires together and don't forget the green wire for your ground.
 
Looking for help wiring STC-1000 directly into the fridge? Looking for some input before I start cutting wires. Attached is the wiring diagram for the fridge. I'm only using one stage so pins 5 & 6 will be empty. 3 & 4 are my sensor. Will my controller be hooked up correctly if I take the wires labeled

(smooth black) as my hot wire and connect to pins 1 & 7
(black white) as my neutral wire and connect to pin 2
(brown) as my compressor wire and connect to pin 8

Any input would be great. Not very good at reading these diagrams

I think you want the STC cool control in series with your black (hot) service connection on the fridge so that pins 7 & 8 become a switch for the black (hot) thus turning the fridge on when the cool relay closes.
 
..... Will my controller be hooked up correctly if I take the wires labeled

(smooth black) as my hot wire and connect to pins 1 & 7
(black white) as my neutral wire and connect to pin 2
(brown) as my compressor wire and connect to pin 8

Any input would be great. Not very good at reading these diagrams

I don't believe that's correct. Referencing the upper electrical schematic, BLACKWHITE is the common point between the temperature control and compressor, it is NOT neutral.

In the upper left portion of the lower, wiring diagram, SMOOTH / BLACK is constant hot but SMOOTH in the lower left is not. BROWN is the condensor fan hot, not the compressor hot.

Are you attempting to bypass or replace the temperature control with the STC1000? What portion of the wiring diagram do you have access to? I will assume the compressor, condensor fan, and the terminal block (polygon) are all in the lower section of the unit with the rest in another area? Is there a physical "FAN" switch?

If it is the upper portion of the diagram:
SMOOTH/BLACK to 1& 7
WHITE to 2
BLACKWHITE to 8

This will provide a bypass of the temperature control through the STC1000, however, the temperature control will still be functional and the condensor fan will be powered through the STC1000. I would also suggest disconnecting one of the temperature control wires.
 
raouliii has it right.

Depending on where you want to put the controller (inside or outside) and where you have access to the wires, there are a variety of different wires that can make this work.


The easiest may be to mount it externally and make connections underneath. In that case, you would need this:

Black from the incoming power cord connected to #1 & #7

White from the incoming power cord connected to #2

Smooth Black at the compressor or junction block connected to #8 (note - don't cut the wire, splice into it so that applying power to this wire will still get power to the fan switch)

Finally, at the factory temp control, depending on its range, you may be able to turn the dial all the way to hot to keep it from turning on the compressor. Or, you may have to disconnect at least one set of the wires from it. If you disconnect wires, make sure you keep the pair connected together and insulated against shorting to the case. In other words, keep the Smooth Black connected to the plain Black and the Ribbed Black connected to the Black/White when they are off the temp control.
 
I just removed the factory thermostat inside the fridge and tapped into those wires. You should only have 2 wires(and maybe a ground) to the original thermostat. That leaves everything else unmolested and operating as designed.
 
I just removed the factory thermostat inside the fridge and tapped into those wires. You should only have 2 wires(and maybe a ground) to the original thermostat. That leaves everything else unmolested and operating as designed.

You would still need to find access to the White wire for #2 on the controller. It may be right there, depending on where the lighting wires are located.
 
reynolds5520 said:
You would still need to find access to the White wire for #2 on the controller. It may be right there, depending on where the lighting wires are located.

Sorry. I wired it for power external to the fridge. Both the STC and the fridge are plugged into the wall seperately.
 
...Depending on where you want to put the controller (inside or outside) and where you have access to the wires, there are a variety of different wires that can make this work.......
Agreed. The OP needs to provide more information about location of the controller relative to the existing wiring. A model number would help also.

IMO, what you DON'T want to do for this type of refrigerator is to build a standalone controller that interrupts power to the entire unit. It's best to have the evaporator fans circulating air continuously in these commercial units.
 
thanks for the info. Cause what raouliii seems is right. I am trying to mount the stc-1000 inside the fridge and replace the factory temperature control. And i do want the inside evaporator fans running. Temp control is up top and compressor and everything is down below. Its going to be mounted in the top panel where there is 2 switch relays for a fan and a light. When you open the panel you have access to brown, both blacks, and white, the ground is screwed to metal. White wires are pig tailed for the lights already. All other wires go to the switches & temp control.
 
jmc922 said:
thanks for the info. Cause what raouliii seems is right. I am trying to mount the stc-1000 inside the fridge and replace the factory temperature control. And i do want the inside evaporator fans running. Temp control is up top and compressor and everything is down below. Its going to be mounted in the top panel where there is 2 switch relays for a fan and a light. When you open the panel you have access to brown, both blacks, and white, the ground is screwed to metal. White wires are pig tailed for the lights already. All other wires go to the switches & temp control.

Be careful with actually putting the STC itself inside the fridge. That's probably a condensing environment. Bad news for electronics.
 
thanks for the info. Cause what raouliii seems is right. I am trying to mount the stc-1000 inside the fridge and replace the factory temperature control. And i do want the inside evaporator fans running. Temp control is up top and compressor and everything is down below. Its going to be mounted in the top panel where there is 2 switch relays for a fan and a light. When you open the panel you have access to brown, both blacks, and white, the ground is screwed to metal. White wires are pig tailed for the lights already. All other wires go to the switches & temp control.
HOT = SMOOTH/BLACK to 1& 7
Neutral = WHITE to 2
Switched HOT = RIBBED/BLACKWHITE to 8

I would recommend disconnecting the existing temperature control by removing one or both wires connected to it. These wires could actually be extended to your new controller for the 1&7 and 8 connections.

I would also recommend attaching the probe, covered by insulation, to the keg or carboy of beer whose temperature you are trying to control. It will save you a lot of headaches.

Leave the FAN switch in the non-constant-on position. Let the condenser fan cycle with the compressor.

I have a commercial cooler with an STC1000 type controller in use as a fermentation chamber. The only time I have issues with condensation on the inside is when I raise the temperature for diacetyl rest / yeast clean-up and I manage that using damp-rid. Otherwise, the constant air movement and cooling cycles remove moisture very well. A refrigerator, especially a commercial one, functions much different than a keezer in the area of moisture control.
 
Thanks again for the replies. I would of taken me a week to figure this out.
 
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