My Weldless Build Using Strut

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My pleasure, I also have a draft parts list too that I can post when I get back home also. Any mods you would do?
 
Oops, my bad. I think I had an information/excitement overload on this threat. Thank you for pointing that out.

I have been playing around with SketchUp today for the first time and wanted to know your guys thoughts on this 2-tiered system I have tumbling around in my brain. Any suggestions or ideas would be most helpful. I am running natural gas out to the attached garage this holiday break and will prob be getting some 10 jet NG burners unless you think something else would suffice.

I am just relieved at the cost savings of this system compared to welded stands. Live long and brew!

Sorry for the first time sketches, just trying to put what is in my head in order for some critiquing.

No problemo. That design looks good to me. And you're the second person to show a pretty good design using Sketchup. I need to try that software because I need something to sketch out my designs.

Thanks, :rockin:
 
I've been thinking about building one just like this. Thanks for posting the plans. I've also been trying to fugue out if you could do a 3-tier with this stuff.

I'd certainly think so. When locked together with the 1/2" bolts and strut nuts it is a super solid connection. If you design in the proper supports you should be fine. This stuff is rated for very high loading for it's weight. This stuff is rated at safely holding 1,130 lbs over a 3 ft span and that's just on one unsupported beam. Very strong.
 
This is a great thread, just what I was looking for to be able to build a sturdy yet WAAAYYY more affordable brewstand so my brewing is more efficient. Thanks and would love to see all the "strut porn" that's out there!

BTW, where can we get that software to design the stands? Is it free?:mug:
 
Beavdowg said:
This is a great thread, just what I was looking for to be able to build a sturdy yet WAAAYYY more affordable brewstand so my brewing is more efficient. Thanks and would love to see all the "strut porn" that's out there!

BTW, where can we get that software to design the stands? Is it free?:mug:

It's Google Sketchup. If I understand, its free. I haven't used it though.
 
Google Sketchup and it is free. I did those sketches for my first time yesterday. Check out the tutorials for some good help.
 
My pleasure, I also have a draft parts list too that I can post when I get back home also. Any mods you would do?

I'd love to to see the parts list.

Looks like you are building a 2-burner system with a cooler mash tun in the middle. Is that correct?

I want to do the same thing, but I was hoping for something a little shorter. I have limited space. I'd like to keep in at no more than 48". I have a cooler as a mash tun, so I'm not sure if having the burners closer to the cooler would be a problem.

I'm still thinking it through.
 
Here is the draft of my parts list. The total came out to $235.23 and of course, any suggestions are welcome.

Untitled.jpg
 
And you are right, dual burner with a mash tun in the middle. I'm going to grab some spare sheet metal to make wind deflectors and heat shields for the mash tun. We use a 60qt Igloo cooler from Lowes and it has served us well and I'm thinking we should have a good buffer between the jet burner and tun.
 
And you are right, dual burner with a mash tun in the middle. I'm going to grab some spare sheet metal to make wind deflectors and heat shields for the mash tun. We use a 60qt Igloo cooler from Lowes and it has served us well and I'm thinking we should have a good buffer between the jet burner and tun.

Sounds good. I use a 10 gallon igloo.

Thanks for the parts list. Have you found a good source for the connectors? Lowes and HD are pretty limited.

The only change i'm contemplating is to get some stainless Strut for use near the burners. Kinda pricey, but it might prevent some rusting. Can I mix stainless and galvinized steel without issues?
 
I've found 304 stainless here locally for about $15 / foot. Standard galvy is $2.50 a foot. Is there a compelling, $10 upcharge-per-foot reason to go stainless??
 
I'd say no way in heck. Most stands will take 4-6 10ft sections, so you could pay $125 for five sticks of galv or $750 for SS. The galv looks a lot like stainless. I guess the galv coating is supposed to burn off, but SS gets all discolored and and crappy too where the pots sit with spill, heat, etc. Heck where I got the galv sticks they were stored outside on racks, in the elements, so I don't see how rusting is going to be an issue. Most stands are stored primarily indoors anyway.
 
G-P LLC even sells it "Black Powder Coated". You can get 6-10' sections for $267.00 free shipping.
 
I hope this thread never dies. You're all on the right track building with strut. I've changed my strut stand many times. I only ever needed a socket set. Beats the heck out of cutting, welding, painting ...etc. Nice builds.
 
Does anyone think that there would be any issues with the 14ga. stuff?

You know, looking at the rated loadings, it only drops from 1,690 to 1,390 lbs for uniform loading on 24" span. That's not a big drop at all and for the weight savings it might be nice going with the 14ga. I wish I would've looked at that a little closer actually when I was spec'ing it out. This stuff gets it's high loading from the shape of the strut channel. It's built for structure for sure.
 
I've found 304 stainless here locally for about $15 / foot. Standard galvy is $2.50 a foot. Is there a compelling, $10 upcharge-per-foot reason to go stainless??

Not all stainless. Just the parts that will be exposed to an open flame. Trying to keep rust down and avoid burning the zinc coating. Actually the stuff is so cheap I could probably just replace it when it rusts. I think you just talked me out of the SS. Thanks. I can buy a pump now.
 
Got the Auber PID hooked up and wired into a vintage 6"x6" control panel I scarfed off an old piece of equipment at work.

image-1117040451.jpg


image-3477211710.jpg
 
Now that is a sweet looking rig.

Any tips for those of us who have not physically started with our construction yet? Any headaches with the strut?
 
Now that is a sweet looking rig.

Any tips for those of us who have not physically started with our construction yet? Any headaches with the strut?

Well, here's what I can attest to, the 12ga strut that I used is way more heavy duty that I would've thought. It takes a cutoff wheel a good time to get through it, and a good bit of pressure and time to drill through it (which you shouldn't have to do much). You just have to keep steady pressure on it and take your time while cutting. But, as mentioned, one 7" cutoff wheel for $2.50 from Harbor Freight made all of my cuts. Clean up the ends with a decent file as they will be sharp. I'd stay with 1/2" bolts and be sure to use the strut nuts. Allows you to put the whole thing together with just a socket wrench.
 
Outstanding info Gifty. I am thinking of doing a photo breakdown from raw material to finished assembly when we do this in the near future. I think I will go 14ga. on the struts but I have to give you some mad props for not only doing this, but inciting a firestorm of ideas and excitement.

Side Note: I work for the local cable company and have run in to other homebrewers on my route who have seen this thread and are forming plans themselves. Needless to say we spent a lot of time waxing intellectually about this stuff and are appreciative for your posting.
 
You know, looking at the rated loadings, it only drops from 1,690 to 1,390 lbs for uniform loading on 24" span. That's not a big drop at all and for the weight savings it might be nice going with the 14ga. I wish I would've looked at that a little closer actually when I was spec'ing it out. This stuff gets it's high loading from the shape of the strut channel. It's built for structure for sure.

Where are you getting these ratings? Not that I don't believe you, but it's been my experience that when there's this type of technical information, there's usually lots of other technical goodies to be found.

And if it's in one of those catalogs you posted earlier, my apologies, I may not be able to download it here at work or I just flat out missed it.

As someone said above, this is one of the most informative threads on this forum. :mug:

Thanks,
 
Where are you getting these ratings? Not that I don't believe you, but it's been my experience that when there's this type of technical information, there's usually lots of other technical goodies to be found.

And if it's in one of those catalogs you posted earlier, my apologies, I may not be able to download it here at work or I just flat out missed it.

As someone said above, this is one of the most informative threads on this forum. :mug:

Thanks,

No, no problem. I've just been going off the ratings posted by the manufacturer. As far as the truth to them, I HIGHLY doubt they would ever post something they don't thoroughly test and validate, and publish with a hefty safety factor. These products are used primarily by electricians and plumbers that hang some major loads on them. Here's the link to the stuff I was using.

http://www.powerstrut.com/channel.html

That lists all the grades, and if you click on one it takes you the the page for that grade and at the top you'll see a link for beam & column loadings.
 
Hey Gifty, if you had to drill a hole in the particular piece of strut you were using for a bolt (none within reach), did you use a step bit or have something dedicated in size?
 
Where are you getting these ratings? Not that I don't believe you, but it's been my experience that when there's this type of technical information, there's usually lots of other technical goodies to be found.

And if it's in one of those catalogs you posted earlier, my apologies, I may not be able to download it here at work or I just flat out missed it.

As someone said above, this is one of the most informative threads on this forum. :mug:

Thanks,


These struts are used in commercial construction. I used to do remodels and had to take down (and sometimes help put back up) old transformers that are suspended up above the ceiling with these. They used two 30" segments of these suspended by 4 pieces of allthread to hold a 300+ pound electrical transformer. And believe me if it wasn't rated for it, it would have never passed the building inspectors code enforcement that's needed to finish the job. They are also used in routing electrical conduit, chiller lines, and air ducts. Very versatile and very strong. Just thought I would share that for anyone else worrying about weight.
 
JonesSoda6 said:
Hey Gifty, if you had to drill a hole in the particular piece of strut you were using for a bolt (none within reach), did you use a step bit or have something dedicated in size?

I think a step bit would do it, but it might take some good effort. I just used a 3/8" standard bit and keep some good pressure on it and it eventually broke through. Let me know how it goes.
 
Outstanding info Gifty. I am thinking of doing a photo breakdown from raw material to finished assembly when we do this in the near future. I think I will go 14ga. on the struts but I have to give you some mad props for not only doing this, but inciting a firestorm of ideas and excitement.

Side Note: I work for the local cable company and have run in to other homebrewers on my route who have seen this thread and are forming plans themselves. Needless to say we spent a lot of time waxing intellectually about this stuff and are appreciative for your posting.

Yeah, thanks. Can't really take credit for being the first to post about using this material obviously, but this thread has certainly gotten a lot of views and comments from people that are really using it. I generally don't post unless I feel strongly that it is going to be a good option for more than just myself. I've been through gathering bed frames, trying to find a friend or family member that could weld for me (which I could not), trying to figure out maybe how to weld myself, etc. Nothing panned out and I wished I would've found this stuff before spinning my wheels for a few years trying to get welded stand put together. I also was not sure if I wanted single or two tier, and didn't want to pay to get something all welded up. Even if you think you want welded, this is a super cheap way to put together all kinds of configurations and test them to see which one works best for you. Or if you're planning to move in a few years and not sure of the setup at the new house. Great material to use. :rockin:
 
No, no problem. I've just been going off the ratings posted by the manufacturer. As far as the truth to them, I HIGHLY doubt they would ever post something they don't thoroughly test and validate, and publish with a hefty safety factor. These products are used primarily by electricians and plumbers that hang some major loads on them. Here's the link to the stuff I was using.

http://www.powerstrut.com/channel.html

That lists all the grades, and if you click on one it takes you the the page for that grade and at the top you'll see a link for beam & column loadings.

Simply astounding numbers. I need to find an electrical supplier place around here, Fastenal, Lowe's and HD are way too expensive (+$18 per stick).

Can't be said enough, IMO: Great Thread! :mug:
 
Simply astounding numbers. I need to find an electrical supplier place around here, Fastenal, Lowe's and HD are way too expensive (+$18 per stick).

Can't be said enough, IMO: Great Thread! :mug:

Square steel tube is around $5 a foot...so $18 isn't too bad. As has been said...they make their money on the fittings...much more expensive lb for lb.
 
Go for the 14ga. Strut and save yourself a few bucks. Plus if you know someone who is a vet they get 10% off at lowes.
 
I was looking online to see if I can get it cheaper than Lowes or Home Depot so I Googled electrical supply in Portland, OR and one of the results was this place, Grainger: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/strut-channel/conduit-mounting/electrical/ecatalog/N-8ai?Ndr=basedimid10071&cm_sp=Generic+Terms-_-Strut-_-Strut+Channels&sst=subset

Interestingly, look how much more expensive it is. For those of you that don't want to click on the link, it's over $30 per 10 ft. I thought it'd be cheaper then the big box stores. Why is it so much more. It seems to be for only 1 piece, best I can tell.
 

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