Rubber covered keg of any use?

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conpewter

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I recently got a couple kegs, a couple of them will become keggles to use as HLT boil kettle etc. Some had a strange threaded dip tube system instead of the usual ring system, but that's another topic.

One of them is covered in rubber and looks similar to the one pictured except the one I have is a 1/2 bbl keg (15.5 gallons). What would you guys do with this? It does not feel like it has a SS skirt so cutting off the rubber would leave me with a fairly unusable keg. I'm thinking 15.5 gallon pressurized fermenter, but I wonder if I can control and monitor the temp well through the rubber exterior. Thoughts?

.25barrelrubber.jpg
 
Ive seen a few where the rubber was cut off on the bottom to allow for heating, but the rest of the rubber was left on the remaining portion of the keg for insulation.

Not sure of results though.
 
The one I have is too heavy to be plastic, and the place for the tap is all stainless steel, not flexible at all even when there is no pressure.

I would like to use it as a fermenter but I'm not sure if the insulation properties of the rubber would make it harder to cool the fermentation, and if so, how much I can remove before the top handles pop off. (If it is even removable, may be stuck on with really good glue)
 
I just inherited a rubberized one as well and was wondering the same thing. I figured I could make it into a fermenter somehow but didn't think the rubber would hold up to the heat, even with it cut off the bottom.
 
If it is a MBC rubber coated keg, then it is stainless under that rubber and probably not a plastic keg. I would use that for my MLT or HLT since it is already insulated for you. You are correct on the skirt, typically MBC rubberized kegs do not have stainless handles or bottom lips. you would have to remove the entire rubber bottom and probably a few inches of rubber up the side if you are going to apply heat. If you batch sparge, all you have to do is cut the top off and drill for a bulkhead and you're set.
 
Tried searching for 'rubber' and both 'keg' and 'MLT' are too short to search on. Has the topic been addressed on HBT before? Can anyone point me in the right direction?
 
I am using them now for brewing vessels in an all electric brewery. The rubber coating is about 1/2" thick and I am hoping it will be great for insulation. So the simple brewery build in my sig if interested. Hopefully I will have some pictures of the opened keg soon.

They are stainless inside FYI.
 
I have one that had a rubber top and bottom and when I cut it off there was no stainless skirt, so I am converting it to a MLT tippy-dump. I cut the entire top off and pounded out the edge of the top piece so it will fit over the sides of the keg and I use it as the lid. I am going to completely insulate the top and sides.
 
Tried searching for 'rubber' and both 'keg' and 'MLT' are too short to search on. Has the topic been addressed on HBT before? Can anyone point me in the right direction?

go to google and type
Site:homebrewtalk.com and whatever search terms you want after.
 
Watch out for the anti-keg Nazis on here. Just saying... they have a habit of preaching their moral superiority then locking the thread. Easy way to get the last word.

Make sure to use legally obtained, non-encumbered keg for all utterances or face the wrath.

That said, just use your legally obtained, non-encumbered keg as a serving vessel or fermenter.
 
Any science people know if he could just build a good fire and through legally obtained, non-encumbered keg in with the spear removed and burn off the rubber?
 
I think you'd screw up the stainless properties when you got it hot enough to burn off the rubber. I still have the aforementioned keg, haven't done anything with it yet, works OK as a stool in the shop when I'm working on something :)
 
works OK as a stool in the shop when I'm working on something :)

Care to elaborate? Hopefully tap side down... :ban:

You could always try and use it in leu of deposit to buy a commercial keg. A buddy of mine did that with the local haji wouldn't give him back his money... went to the big mega liquor mart and bought another keg and used that shell instead of $30.
 
Any science people know if he could just build a good fire and through legally obtained, non-encumbered keg in with the spear removed and burn off the rubber?

I wouldn't burn the rubber off the keg. Lots of nasty stuff in that rubber. I would just leave it on.
 
Maybe most of the rubber could be removed with a razor srapper, and possibly a propane torch to soften it as you go. Any residual (glued on?) rubber might then be cleaned off with a solvent that dissolves rubber... I've never tried this but it might be one way to go about it.
 
I guess I should post pics of my other black keg.

I gave it a try with removing the black stuff, btw, no residual glue... The best to remove it for me was a combination of a wood chissel and a heavy duty floor scrapper.

I must point out the time however, I estimate 2-4 hours for a full scrap off. It took me a little bit to figure out the best tecnic, but after that, it was just teadious work.

I did quit halfway, because I found sizz E-RIMS design only needing 2 kegs.

I think I dicked around for an hour or so on what you see. I was scared if i used a grinding wheel it would cut trought. The other way I thought was cut down both sides vertically. Hook one end to a tractor the other to a tree and see if one side just gets ripped off.

I am still uploading the pics but going to bed so check my profile gallery...

https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=32067&cat=all&ppuser=26559
 
I have one of the rubber coated kegs, I have used mine as a mash tun. I have only used it a couple of times so I can't give you any real news. That is what I would do with it, I will say that it is a *itch to cut the rubber.
 
limoges, those are nice looking kegs.

I wish I could find a couple of those.

I know, initially I was bummed when I got them, not knowing how to work with this and propane. Then I read people talking about the insulation the rubber provided. Just made it easier for me to go electric with the build.

They are originaly from europe, looks like German or Danish writting on them. The brewery owners had an issue with stolen kegs and believe the black kegs could help.
 
I have one that had a rubber top and bottom and when I cut it off there was no stainless skirt, so I am converting it to a MLT tippy-dump. I cut the entire top off and pounded out the edge of the top piece so it will fit over the sides of the keg and I use it as the lid. I am going to completely insulate the top and sides.

Hey! I just picked on of those up last night. Think you could send me a few pics of what it looks like with the rubber gone? Thanks!
 
You can:

1. Use it as a fermenter
2. Use it as a mashtun
3. Use it as an electric keggle
4. Use it as a stool

I wouldn't worry about the rubber "insulating" it if you want to use it as a fermenter. Insulation only slows the rate of heat transfer, it doesn't stop it. If you have a kegerator where it will fit, you can do any ferementation you want.
 
It is funny, I wasn't excited at all about getting it (not at all what I was expecting) but after doing a bit of oxicleaning and bon-ami scrub, it is definitely growing on me! How do you all ensure that the inside is spotless before putting your beer into it? It is still soaking full of oxiclean atm (put oxi in at 1 PM and it is now 9:30 PM and the keg is still warm!) but it is next to impossible to see inside. Thanks!
 
It is funny, I wasn't excited at all about getting it (not at all what I was expecting) but after doing a bit of oxicleaning and bon-ami scrub, it is definitely growing on me! How do you all ensure that the inside is spotless before putting your beer into it? It is still soaking full of oxiclean atm (put oxi in at 1 PM and it is now 9:30 PM and the keg is still warm!) but it is next to impossible to see inside. Thanks!

You have to remove the lug. There will likely be a split ring holding it on (if I remember correctly) and remove the lug along with the dip tube. Then soak in some very hot water with PBW or something similar. rinse it out and take a peak with a flashlight. should be good to go after that. If you have a small extending mirror like a mechanic uses, you might be able to get a better look inside.
 
Yea, thanks! I removed the spear already and filled it full of oxiclean and hot water. There is definitely beer stone on the bottom of it. I am still deciding what to do with it. If I can get another keg I will probably just sell it but if I can't I will have to look into acid washing it.
 
Yea, thanks! I removed the spear already and filled it full of oxiclean and hot water. There is definitely beer stone on the bottom of it. I am still deciding what to do with it. If I can get another keg I will probably just sell it but if I can't I will have to look into acid washing it.

I use oxiclean all the time myself, and I don't want to start a debate on this thread but in my opinion PBW works on the stone a little better than oxiclean. Also, There is a line cleaner called B*L*C (Beer Line Cleaner) that comes in liquid form and is mixed with water. That same company makes a cleaner called penetrate. We used to use it on long-draw draft lines that were heavily stoned and it always worked well. Ultra hot water is the key then let it soak. I am not sure where to buy it nowadays but I know it's still out there as I saw a line tech cleaning the taps at the local pub with it the other day. If you can find it, give it a try. That stuff works great on faucets too. Just pull them apart and let them sit in a hot water bath with a little bit of penetrate. They come out sparkling.
 
Using a rather agressive wire wheel the type that will eat flesh on contact with a big hand grinder like a Milwaukee porting grinder will eat thru rbbber vs burning thru it with a grinding wheel. To hold the keg up to a wire wheel on a buffing motor or arbor would tax your back and arms but would have the power to cut thru the rubber also. Either way a big mess maker but will not cut into or damage the stainless unless you kept the wire wheel on bare stainless. I would strip the rubber away at the lid and mounting locations for your fittings and leave the rest alone, why make more work for yourself? This way you still have hand holds as well a solid bottom. Great for a electric brewery working whith what you have.
 
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