New Stand Needs Paint. Need Advice

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bkloos

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2009
Messages
152
Reaction score
1
Location
Reading, MA
Hey Guys,

I'm almost finished welding up my stand and I want to get a coat of primer and paint on it. I built it out of 2x2x.120 mild steel.

I'm wondering what type of paint holds up best on these frames?

I was told to look at porch and patio paint from the guys at HD, as it is designed to take a lot of foot trafic and hence in pretty tough.

Any experience with this?

If it were your frame, what would you use?

Thanks,

Bryan
 
I assume your talking about a brewing system frame? Powder coat is the best, but is expensive in comparison to a spray bomb job. I may be a little biased as this is what my system is going to have, but a lot of people on here seem to feel the same. Good luck!
 
I'd grab one can of Krylon metal metal primer and one can of Krylon paint. I'm sure that would do the trick.

What the hell is "porch and patio" paint? Sounds like a marketing gimmick or perhaps there is something added to increase weatherability? Either way, I'm not sure if it would be better than your basic shaker can.


Don't forget to tag the inside of your garage with the leftover paint.
 
I used engine paint purchased at an automotive store. Still burned off where the burners flame hit the metal.
 
I used engine paint purchased at an automotive store. Still burned off where the burners flame hit the metal.

I am not aware of any paint that can take the heat of a direct fired kettle. If you find something that holds up, I would be very interested. I believe even powdercoating will wear/burn off after some time.
 
I wanted to powder-coat the frame, but heard a lot about the finish not holding up to the heat... If I WERE to powder-coat, I would want it to be permanent given the costs...

That said, I can always touch up the paint-job should it scratch/wear for minimal loot-cakes ($$$$$). So, paint it will be.

Now to decide what color and type of paint....
 
If your frame has hot section frames for the burners that can be unbolted send then out to have them ceramic coated. Even so called VHT paint will burn off, ceramic coatings like on headers can withstand 2,200 degrees F when properly applied. Stainless is too costly unless your a "must have a 100% stainless brewery stand system person". One of the drawbacks of gas fired vs electric heating not alone the added cost of many times higher using propane vs electric heating per brew.
 
+1 on several posts. Used 1,000 degree auto paint with self etching primer and ceramic in the paint-guess what-it burned off after only one brew. Either use heat sheilds or prepare for bubbling paint. I can live with it because its only on the inside of my tubes. I used the same steel as you. I checked powder coating as well and was told it will eventually peel, not as fast but it will peel.
 
Powder won't stand up to concentrated high heat any better than paint. Even the high temp varieties will burn under a propane flame. My advice: use stainless where the heat will be concentrated most. Construct heat shields to contain the heat. Use a quality paint (or powder coating) for the rest of the frame.
 
Hockey Man,

Seriously that held up for you? I have used that stuff on many grills etc with terrible results. I'm shocked you have had such great luck.

PS-Who do you go for Hockey wise? Ok I saw your jersey in the pic-Crosby? Really?
 
im not to this stage yet but....i personaly would go with that engine paint thats heat resistant to 1200 degrees. its called Dupli-Color® High Heat Paint with Ceramic and im shure that would do the job.
 
Hockey Man,

Seriously that held up for you? I have used that stuff on many grills etc with terrible results. I'm shocked you have had such great luck.

PS-Who do you go for Hockey wise? Ok I saw your jersey in the pic-Crosby? Really?

Yeah, so far so good. YMMV. I do agree that the 1200F enging paint may hold up better in the long run though. The metal for my stand already had either a powder coat or a heavy dose of primer on it, so that probably helps.
And yes, I am a Pens fan. I am a season ticket holder for their AHL affiliate, the Wilkes-Barre Scranton Penguins.
And also, yes crosby is a bit overhyped, I don't think he's even the best player on the team.
 
I used the dupli-color and that is what flaked off immediately even with a primer although the primer is staying on pretty well?

annasdadhockey-I agree that Malkin is probably better. I'm still burned by Crosby getting Rookie of the year over Ovechkin! We have the Admirals here in Milwaukee which is always good but I have season tickets for the Wisconsin Badgers College Hockey in Madison. Can't get enough of college Hockey.
 
Header/Exhaust manifold paint with NO PRIMER. It makes no sense to put a 2000F capable paint on top of a 200F capable primer. You'll lose all the adhesion and the topcoat will just peel. I used two coats of black, then two coats of clear. The only thing that has rubbed off was right where the kegs sit on top.
 
I used rust o leum flat black on my frame....I was thoroughly impressed with how it stood up to heat. Granted, the areas that have direct fire didn't do so well, but each of my keggles sits on a 1/8" hot rolled steel plate (24"x24') with a 10" hole plasma cut out of the center for the burner........the top of the plates get very hot 400+ and the paint stays put....no bubbling no flaking. I used 6 flat black cans and did my entire frame. At 4.50 a can you can't go wrong.
 
Try a high temp engine paint as an under coat or primer and two part ceramic paint for around the burner area. The high temp paint will keep the frame protected and the ceramic paint will keep the burner area good to go. Also cools faster.
(I do industrial coatings of mild steel in case you were curious about credentials.)
 
Make sure you thoroughly sand it before you prime. I recommend hitting it with an RO sander. The primer and thus the paint will grip the surface much better.
 
Try a high temp engine paint as an under coat or primer and two part ceramic paint for around the burner area. The high temp paint will keep the frame protected and the ceramic paint will keep the burner area good to go. Also cools faster.
(I do industrial coatings of mild steel in case you were curious about credentials.)

I just sprayed mine with header paint a didn't realize it needed to be baked, is there anything I can do now except paint thin it and start over?
 
Back
Top