Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

jllund62 said:

I'm not a big fan of bitter beers like the stuff you buy at a store, and perfer a more malt style brews.
Can anyone tell me if I can brew with only UMEs and other Ingredients,
can I still make a great beer? Or do I still need to start with the basic package
Thanks

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You generally make better beers using unhopped malt extract and hopping with pellets, plugs, or whole hops according to your recipe, and the style of beer you are brewing...Different styles have different levels of IBU's (international bittering units)...

BMC's (pilsners and light lagers, like commercial mass produced beers like bud/miller/coors) have the lowest amount of ibus...I like to joke that the closest they get to hops is when the delivery truck passes by a homebreww shop...IPA's and Double IPA's have amongsts the highest...

It's really hard to know what you deem "to bitter" or "Perfectly malty" since everybody's tastes are different.

But if you name some of the beers you've tried, both loved and hated, we'll tell you what style it is and help you find a recipe, or an existing Mr Beer kit to make...

You will find though as you get into homebrewing and try more of the world's great beers, your palate will become more sophisticated, and what you thought was too bitter today, may be your favorite style a year from now....

Those are cool pictures thanks for posting them. I actually had a freak out when I looked at my last batch with the flash light because there was this huge nasty looking cloud-growth-thingy floating inside the Mr. Beer and it took me a few minutes to remember it was the hop sack I put in there! I was laughing out loud at myself for twenty minutes

Thwizzit said:

Those are cool pictures thanks for posting them. I actually had a freak out when I looked at my last batch with the flash light because there was this huge nasty looking cloud-growth-thingy floating inside the Mr. Beer and it took me a few minutes to remember it was the hop sack I put in there! I was laughing out loud at myself for twenty minutes

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BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAA!!!!!!

Sorry....but that's the best freakout story I ever heard...

Just think, you sorta dry hopped your first beer.

Yeah, it was pretty funny. I was thinking I had some sort of nasty infection.. No apologies necessary, I love stupid stuff One time when my son was about two he peed on the tile floor outside the bathroom and I come walking along and I slipped like the classic, old-time banana peel movie prat-fall, feet up in the the air and everything. Classic. And all I could think of (while I was re-setting my dislocated finger) was I wish I could have seen it because it must have been hilarious to watch

hey all, quite a fantastic site if i do say so myself, i honestly can't beleive i'v enever found this site before.
so anyroad, any of you guys now of any HB shops in london ontario, that carry any of the refill kits, i'm getting back into HBing, long story with SWMBO and a wedding and a bleeder or two coming along.
but anyways any help will be greatly appreciated, i'm moving back to the london area after many o yrs down in that other country, you know that country with the really weak light beers .
i'm kidding no offence to our southern cousins, but any help would be nice.
laters
hoppyih

the kegworks in buffalo ny
has an ebay site and a web page...
I think it either "thekegworks.com or kegworks.com


They sell the kits....
of course buffalo is famous for "light beers and mildly hot chicken wings"

hehehe

Of course if you are going to an lhbs, why don't you start formulating your own 2 gallon recipes, or tailoring the recipes on this site to the small size and buy the ingredients like that...I can gurantee the beers will taste better than with the pre-hopped kits...

Don't think of Mr Beer ingredients as the only stuff you can put in it...think of the mr beer as a small fermenter. You can brew any beer in it as long as you work out the recipes...

Shaffer pilot has formulated several of his recipes to mr beer sized batches.

You can even go all grain in your kitchenand ferment in your mr beer, as long as you can boil around 3 gallons of wort down to 2 1/2 to 2 gallons on your stove....

I'm going to be forumulating an article about doing that soon...I'll be posting my progress and info here.

I was wondering if I got a 3.3 lb can of muntons amber what else would I be able to add to it to get a good 2.5 gallon batch? would it be to much extract for a small batch?
I'd hate to only use half the can!!! hehehe
anyway here's the store near me..

http://www.smithrestaurantsupply.com/browse.cfm/4,2815.html

maybe they have enough stuff to make a good 2.5 gal. batch in stock?

Does anyone know???
Are there expiration dates on MR Beer extract kits?

thanks
timg

timgman said:

Does anyone know???
Are there expiration dates on MR Beer extract kits?

thanks
timg

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Uh, I can't recall...but on most canned extracts there are....

If you're finding them in someplace like bed bath and beyond or a drugstore they probably were shipped around thanksgiving as gift items...

timgman said:

I was wondering if I got a 3.3 lb can of muntons amber what else would I be able to add to it to get a good 2.5 gallon batch? would it be to much extract for a small batch?
I'd hate to only use half the can!!! hehehe
anyway here's the store near me..

http://www.smithrestaurantsupply.com/browse.cfm/4,2815.html

maybe they have enough stuff to make a good 2.5 gal. batch in stock?

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Actually if you ever were to order a kit based on the mr beer advanced recipes they usually are made up with two of the 1.5 pound cans...And if you ever order a 5 gallon kit they usually are made up with 3.3 pounds of extract for and average gravity beer and for a full bodied beer with a higher abv, the base amount is around 6.6 pounds of extract.

So actually a 3.3 pound can of muntons would make for a full bodied MR beer...Add some steeping grains, and the right hops and it'll be great....

Revvy said:

So actually a 3.3 pound can of muntons would make for a full bodied MR beer...Add some steeping grains, and the right hops and it'll be great....

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That's where I get lost.. hehehe
what hops are the right ones?
hehehe

Revvy said:

No problem...To "rack" is to move a volume of beer from one place to another with a siphon...Usually the term is used in terms of moving the ber from primary to the secondary, but it is used to describe moving the beer from any vessel to another...

The auto siphon is made in such a way that the beer enters it about 1/2 to 1" from the bottom so it is not in the "crap" (trub), though some of it is needed to stay in the beer so when you prime the bottles with sugar, it will carbonate. If you have a lot of chunks in your trub...like bits of hops, or fruit seeds or whole spices...you can take 2 rubber bands and any piece of fine mesh cloth like clean pantyhose or a piece of a hopsack, or paint filter...whatever...You soak the cloth and rubberbands in santizer then attach it to the bottom of the autosiphon....but again that's only for the big chunks...you still need to move some yeasties through the process...

You can agitate a carboy any number of ways...You can get a wine/paint agitator like this;

you stick it in and attach it to an electric drill and give it a whirl....Though most people just sanitize a piece of foil, cover the opening of the carboy with it, and shake the heck out of it....with the smaller sizes (especially plastic ones) you can put it on your lap, hold the neck loosely and shake shake shake. People usually put bigger ones and glass carboys in a milk crate and holdin the crate give it s shake.

Well...for priming 5 gallons, the recomended amount of priming(corn) sugar is 3/4 cup or 5 ounces of it (so if you've made 2.5 gallons in your mr beer you'd use half that amount...and probably 2 1/4 ounces for 2 gallons.

I can't recall the amount of table sugar...but really you should avoid it in favor of corn sugar or DME....White sugar can leave a cidery taste in your beer....

I think I covered them all

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Help...blew the top off!!!

First of all, let me say thanks for all the info you provided earlier. You answered a lot of questions. I got a racking cane and made a 3 piece siphon that I've seen in this forum. I batched primed with corn sugar on my last bottling. I think that will make a difference in the end result.

Now for my problem. I mixed a batch of Cranberry Maibock Saturday (lots of fruit). Rather than use the Mr. Beer fermenter, I used the 3 gallon water jug, orange carboy top, and airlock. I also used Nottingham yeast (approx. 1/2 of an 11 gram package). When I got home tonight, the top had blown off and I've got a mess all over the walls and ceiling. Is there anything I can do to salvage this batch?

Thanks for any suggestions.

mmc said:

Help...blew the top off!!!

First of all, let me say thanks for all the info you provided earlier. You answered a lot of questions. I got a racking cane and made a 3 piece siphon that I've seen in this forum. I batched primed with corn sugar on my last bottling. I think that will make a difference in the end result.

Now for my problem. I mixed a batch of Cranberry Maibock Saturday (lots of fruit). Rather than use the Mr. Beer fermenter, I used the 3 gallon water jug, orange carboy top, and airlock. I also used Nottingham yeast (approx. 1/2 of an 11 gram package). When I got home tonight, the top had blown off and I've got a mess all over the walls and ceiling. Is there anything I can do to salvage this batch?

Thanks for any suggestions.

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You just had a blowoff...clean up the mess, and affix a blowoff tube to the carboy cap and put the other end of the tube in a container of water.

Is that in addition to the airlock or instead of? I put the airlock and the blowoff tube on and the airlock is already showing a bunch of activity after only a few minutes. Nothing is happening with the blowoff tube. I think I'll set this out in the garage!

mmc said:

Is that in addition to the airlock or instead of? I put the airlock and the blowoff tube on and the airlock is already showing a bunch of activity after only a few minutes. Nothing is happening with the blowoff tube. I think I'll set this out in the garage!

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Instead of the airlock...But if you had your big blowoff, you may not even need the tube again...just keep it handy. In the future if you're using fruit in primary fermentation make sure you use one for the first couple days.....

Revvy said:

Instead of the airlock...But if you had your big blowoff, you may not even need the tube again...just keep it handy. In the future if you're using fruit in primary fermentation make sure you use one for the first couple days.....

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So it sounds like you're telling me the beer is still OK???

mmc said:

So it sounds like you're telling me the beer is still OK???

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Yeah.....Blowoffs happen all the time. No big deal....It takes a heck of a lot to ruin beer....some people have been in such a panic that they cleaned up the mess and re attached the airlock without even stopping to re-sanitize the airlock...and their beer turned out ok...

Remember something....Beer's been brewed since ancient Egypt, and most of the time it was done in open vessels with nothing covering it, closed fermentation is a relatively new phenomenon (heck even the instructions on post prohibition beer kits recomended ceramic pots with a dish cloth on it) and even chemical sanitization procedures are a recent thing too, and the majority of beers came out fine...If they hadn't then this whole brewing thing would have gone the way of the dodo bird.

So you know the drill, Relax, Don't Worry, and Have a Home Brew (or at least a nice micro!)

We its been about 16 days since I started Irish stout and its been bottled
19 days and I tested one of the bottles and it tasted great, but it wasn't as
Carbonated as much as I hoped. very little to almost no head. the bottles sat at a constant 70 degrees for a little over a week with the correct amount of priming sugar, and the bottles ( 1 Ltr. PET Bottles) felt hard, but but still have a little give
to them. What might have happened?

Note: When in the fermenting keg, I noticed there wasn't much foaming going on
and it didn't ferment for very long. I'm thinking the yeast might have been old.
I want to use a Different type of yeast next time. any suggestions on what to use for dark stout type beers?
thanks in advance

jllund62 said:

We its been about 16 days since I started Irish stout and its been bottled
19 days and I tested one of the bottles and it tasted great, but it wasn't as
Carbonated as much as I hoped. very little to almost no head. the bottles sat at a constant 70 degrees for a little over a week with the correct amount of priming sugar, and the bottles ( 1 Ltr. PET Bottles) felt hard, but but still have a little give
to them. What might have happened?

Note: When in the fermenting keg, I noticed there wasn't much foaming going on
and it didn't ferment for very long. I'm thinking the yeast might have been old.
I want to use a Different type of yeast next time. any suggestions on what to use for dark stout type beers?
thanks in advance

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Nothings "happened," some beers take longer than the usual 3 weeks to condition and carb....I've had stouts and porters take 6-8 weeks before they were ready...

keep them at 70 for a couple more weeks and check on them...they'll be fine....

There's really no way to tell how a beer has fermented by looking at it, the only way to tell is with a hydrometer reading...The best thing without a hydrometer is just to wait 2 weeks for fermentation to run it's course before secondarying or bottling the beer...Homebrew is a living thing, and ALL living things take their own time...

In this day and age of high turnover it is rare to find yeast that is past it's prime....If you ordered the Mr Beer kit from the company, or picked it up somewhere around Christmas, most likely the yeast was less than a year old...

The best quote I ever heard about homebrewing is this;

Bobby_M said:

You do know that as a new brewer, it's your job to insanely worry that you have the only environment on earth where a billion yeast cells can't figure out how to find all that sugar that they crave. ;-)

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For stouts any Irish Ale yeasts are good ones to use....

I've come to learn that.... carbontaion is a 2 1/2 - 3 week process.
And MR Beer batches are small and seem to go faster after the 2 week mark. It tough to wait and hit that optimal 3 week mark... for me anyway.
hehehe

timgman said:

I've come to learn that.... carbontaion is a 2 1/2 - 3 week process.
And MR Beer batches are small and seem to go faster after the 2 week mark. It tough to wait and hit that optimal 3 week mark... for me anyway.
hehehe

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Patience is hard...that's why it is better to brew a lot initially to get the pipeline loaded up...And if you brew a big beer that is going to need a long time, to follow it up with a lighter beer like a pale ale that will be ready in a few weeks....the second batch can be drunk while waiting for the first batch to come online....

The size of the batch doesn't really have anything to do with conditioning time in the bottle...it's the amount of fermentables in it...although bottle size may have a bearing on bottle conditioning/carbonation...a 12 ounce bottle will be ready much faster than a 1 liter mr beer PET bottle...

It's also not just about carbonation, it's also about bottle conditioning as well......

If you don't know what I mean by bottle conditioning, read this post of mine in the n00b thread.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=558191&highlight=food#post558191

Well, it seems my initial concerns regarding the age of my mix was valid. After 3 weeks in the bottles my beer is still as flat as when I bottled it. It doesn't taste terrible, but it's not great. I'm going to try something newer than 2 years old this time.

CAsch said:

Well, it seems my initial concerns regarding the age of my mix was valid. After 3 weeks in the bottles my beer is still as flat as when I bottled it. It doesn't taste terrible, but it's not great. I'm going to try something newer than 2 years old this time.

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Probably a good idea...I think the best used by on most beer ingredients is a year....but don't throw out the bottles yet...

Did you roll them on the table to re-rouse the yeast, and stick them away for a couple more weeks at 70 degrees?

If so and there was not change you could get some carb tabs, open the bottles, add those and recap.

I have tried the methods other than carb tabs. Where can I get some of those?

CAsch said:

I have tried the methods other than carb tabs. Where can I get some of those?

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You can get them at any brewing supply store as well as online....

Coopers makes one brand.



Primetabs is the other brand...

Hot diggety! I just cracked one of my beers today it's amazing! It's nicely carbonated and poured out like a real beer, head and all.

I started the batch on Feb 14th, fermented it for a couple of weeks, bottled it on March 1st and after a month in the bottle it's not just passable but it's actually good. What's funny is that I looked back at my notes and it actually said 'Should be ready to drink April 1st' and whaddaya know? Right on the button

I actually tried it about two weeks ago and really wasn't so great. It wasn't carbonated enough and tasted a bit malty so I closed it up and put it back in the closet and now it's beer-ific! Very exciting.

Probably going to bottle the Apfelwein from the spare Mr. Beer soon. It's been fermenting for about five weeks so I figure once it's bottled I'll let it sit until mid June before I crack one.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thwizzit said:

Hot diggety! I just cracked one of my beers today it's amazing! It's nicely carbonated and poured out like a real beer, head and all.

I started the batch on Feb 14th, fermented it for a couple of weeks, bottled it on March 1st and after a month in the bottle it's not just passable but it's actually good. What's funny is that I looked back at my notes and it actually said 'Should be ready to drink April 1st' and whaddaya know? Right on the button

I actually tried it about two weeks ago and really wasn't so great. It wasn't carbonated enough and tasted a bit malty so I closed it up and put it back in the closet and now it's beer-ific! Very exciting.

Probably going to bottle the Apfelwein from the spare Mr. Beer soon. It's been fermenting for about five weeks so I figure once it's bottled I'll let it sit until mid June before I crack one.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

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YEHAW!!!!!!!! See the benefits of Patience!!!

*Grins like a Proud PAPA!*

Get Brewing ASAP Thiz...Them Beers Go FAST!!!

I am not certain that this is the right place for this post...it is MRB related and recipe related. Anyway, I am one remaining MRB recipe away from going to 5 gal batches and getting away from the MRB kits.

The very first beer I made was the MRB West Coast Pale Ale and, after seeing all the neg comments about it and MRB, I wasn't expecting much. However, I was very patient with it and by the time I drank the last one, I knew I wanted to make a 5 gal version of it (without buying two recipes from MRB!). It was not bitter, didn't leave an aftertaste, and the low ABV made it enjoyable for SWMBO. To me, it was just a very smooth, clean tasting beer.

How would I go about breaking down MRB's WCPA to determine what is needed to make my own 5 gal. version? I found this recipe https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=594726#post594726 and at first thought it was close until I compared the profiles.

Is this a trial and error thing, or is there a way to actually figure it out the first time?

Thanks!

I plan on doing some split 5 gal batches in 2 mr beer kegs.. so I can start working on real recipes. I'll keep you all posted.
timg

431brew said:

I am not certain that this is the right place for this post...it is MRB related and recipe related. Anyway, I am one remaining MRB recipe away from going to 5 gal batches and getting away from the MRB kits.

The very first beer I made was the MRB West Coast Pale Ale and, after seeing all the neg comments about it and MRB, I wasn't expecting much. However, I was very patient with it and by the time I drank the last one, I knew I wanted to make a 5 gal version of it (without buying two recipes from MRB!). It was not bitter, didn't leave an aftertaste, and the low ABV made it enjoyable for SWMBO. To me, it was just a very smooth, clean tasting beer.

How would I go about breaking down MRB's WCPA to determine what is needed to make my own 5 gal. version? I found this recipe https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=594726#post594726 and at first thought it was close until I compared the profiles.

Is this a trial and error thing, or is there a way to actually figure it out the first time?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Well first the recipe you found is for a Pilsner, Not an ale so it won't be similiar to what you're looking for.

Well the first challenge in recreating it in 5 gallon batches is that MR Beer uses Pre Hopped liquid malt extract, so figuring out exactly what they use is going to be difficult..

Obviously the easiest way would be to order 2 WCPA kits and make a double batch...but that would be more expensive and not as much fun to figure out

First thing is to look at the "numbers" for the wcpa.....it's on the website...

West Coast Pale Ale

Flavor: Balanced
Alc/Vol: 2.3%
SRM (Color): 3
IBU (Bitterness): 10


Alc/Vol -- Strength given in percent of alcohol by volume.

SRM -- Color based on Standard Reference Method, where as:
(fruits may give some additional color.)
- Golden Beers are between 0 - 6
- Amber Beers are between 7 - 12
- Dark Beers are 13 and over

IBU -- Shown in International Bittering Units, where:
- No bitterness 0 - 9
- Modest bitterness 10 - 19
- Noticeable bitterness 20 and over

Unfortunately they don't give OG and FG so it makes it more challenging....BUT we can still break down the recipe somewhat by what we do know....We have the Color, we have the bitterness and we have the ABV...so it is possible to break it down in brewing software, even a free one like beercalculus....

First there are Pre-hopped extracts made for 5 gallon batches that can be used and will be close in taste...thugh not perfect... Cooper's and John Bull have pre hopped extracts in 3.3 pound cans....but these are ranked in terms of color...like Light, Amber, etc....I'm assuming WCPA would use a light pre hopped extract....

Even better would be a recipe that is unhopped and you add the right hops...That's my goal for you...to get you to a standard beer recipe rather than a prehopped one, that way you can control it and fiddle with it, and even when you're ready you can convert it to all grain!

It's hard to figure out what bjcp style the beer is...Is it a california common, and hybrid americanized IPA, or Pale Ale? The Color is so light and the bitterness (the IBU's) is so light..It's hard to match it to a bjcp style.


The first step would be to compare it to a commercial example, then go from there...Does it taste like any of these?

Redhook Blonde, Catamount Gold, Widmer Blonde Ale, Coast Range California Blonde Ale, Fuller's Summer Ale, Hollywood Blonde, Pete's Wicked Summer Brew, Deschutes Cascade Golden ,Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Stone Pale Ale, Great Lakes Burning River Pale Ale, Full Sail Pale Ale, Three Floyds X-Tra Pale Ale, Anderson Valley Poleeko Gold Pale Ale, Left Hand Brewing Jackman's Pale Ale, Pyramid Pale Ale, Deschutes Mirror Pond,Mendocino Red Tail Ale, North Coast Red Seal Ale, St. Rogue Red Ale, Avery Redpoint Ale, Anderson Valley Boont Amber Ale, Bell's Amber, Hoptown Paint the Town Red, McNeill's Firehouse Amber Ale,Genesee Cream Ale, Little Kings Cream Ale (Hudepohl), Sleeman Cream Ale, Liebotschaner Cream Ale (Lion Brewery), Dave's Original Cream Ale (Molson), New Glarus Spotted Cow Farmhouse Ale, Wisconsin Brewing Whitetail Cream Ale, Goose Island Summertime, Crooked River Kölsch, Harpoon Summer Beer, Capitol City Capitol Kölsch...

These are different commercial examples of Cream ales, Pale Ales, Kolsches, amber ales and hybrids...

If you can get me to a commercial beer that reminds you of it, I can get you to a 5 gallon recipe.... even a direct clone of one...

More likely we'll find 2 or three and cobble them together and plug the numbers in, and hit it pretty close...

I love beer detective work!!!!

WOW. Way to take the wheel on this one Revvy!

shafferpilot said:

WOW. Way to take the wheel on this one Revvy!

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LOL....

I guess I got a little carried away :blush:

I'm in the process of doing a little beer detective work on my own (actually with my GF) She's researching a book on ancient sumerian/egyptian goddess religions and how they spread to Ireland (possibly). Anyway she came across the "recipe" for the first beer ever written about (in the tale of Gilgamesh) which was brewed in Ancient Sumeria.... Several people including Anchor and Dogfishead have brewed what they believe the recipe could be...But my GF thinks they're misreading some of the ingredients on the tablets.....

So I've been doing kinda the same sort of process I mentioned about 431's WCPA and trying to come up with a recipe.....To start I'm going to brew a clone of the Anchor version (which hasn't been made since 1989 or 1990 I guess)...And see how that tastes....

The kicker is that there's no way in heck that I'm going to brew a 5 gallon batch of something that could potentially taste like crap...or kill me

So guess where I'm going to brew my test batches in???



So I will be doing a few small batch AG brews in the ole brown keg, after all!:rockin:

(only not the kind of beer I planned on doing....)

What malt extracts are pre hopped?
thanks

timgman said:

What malt extracts are pre hopped?
thanks

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The ones I know are Coopers, John Bull, Brewmaster's and Munton's are the ones I know of.... Info can be found here. http://www.thebeeressentials.com/beer/beer-hopped-malt-extract-kits-index.shtml

But why use them when you can actaully hop your own? It's cheaper and you can control the types and the level of bitterness. Plus with pr-hopped you're not going to get the hopflavor and aroma that you would get by adding a flavor and aroma addition of hops.

Somewhere I read how much alcohol content different ingredients add to a Mr. Beer mix, i.e. HME-2.3%, UME-2.3%, booster-???%, 1 cup honey-???%, can of fruit-???%, etc. I can't find this information anymore. Does anyone else have this and can you share it please?

Thanks!

Gee, Revvy... wasn't looking for this kind of response! Thanks for all of the effort!

Revvy said:

Obviously the easiest way would be to order 2 WCPA kits and make a double batch...but that would be more expensive and not as much fun to figure out

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Yep, the MRB kits are expensive!

Revvy said:

I'm assuming WCPA would use a light pre hopped extract....

Click to expand...

Yes, all of the basic MRB recipes are pre hopped.

Revvy said:

Even better would be a recipe that is unhopped and you add the right hops...That's my goal for you...to get you to a standard beer recipe rather than a prehopped one, that way you can control it and fiddle with it, and even when you're ready you can convert it to all grain!

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That is my goal for me, too!

Revvy said:

The first step would be to compare it to a commercial example, then go from there...Does it taste like any of these?

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I will have to visit the World Market store about an hour from here, and go on a shopping/drinking spree. None of the flavors that you provided can be bought in this small town. I have never tried any of those!

Thanks for the response and the investigative work. I will try to get some of these sampled over the weekend.

mmc said:

Somewhere I read how much alcohol content different ingredients add to a Mr. Beer mix, i.e. HME-2.3%, UME-2.3%, booster-???%, 1 cup honey-???%, can of fruit-???%, etc. I can't find this information anymore. Does anyone else have this and can you share it please?

Thanks!

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mmc...These are listed in the book that came with the MRB kit...near the back, I think. I think my book is in a box in my bedroom closet. I will try to dig it out tomorrow and list them for you if you do not have the book. I would do it now, but SWMBO is asleep and will get pissed if I wake her up.

431brew said:

mmc...These are listed in the book that came with the MRB kit...near the back, I think. I think my book is in a box in my bedroom closet. I will try to dig it out tomorrow and list them for you if you do not have the book. I would do it now, but SWMBO is asleep and will get pissed if I wake her up.

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I'm can't find my book (don't remember getting one actually) so I'd appreciate it if you could find the information for me. I thought I saw it on-line somewhere. Thanks for your help!

mmc said:

Somewhere I read how much alcohol content different ingredients add to a Mr. Beer mix, i.e. HME-2.3%, UME-2.3%, booster-???%, 1 cup honey-???%, can of fruit-???%, etc. I can't find this information anymore. Does anyone else have this and can you share it please?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

mmc.... out of the book; not sure how accurate:
1.21 lb can MRB LME (hopped or unhopped) = 2.3% abv
2 cups booster= 1.4% abv
1.5 cups white or brown cane sugar= 1.5% abv
1 cup honey or molasses= 0.9% abv
1 cup real maple syrup= 0.7% abv
15 ounce can fruit in syrup= 1.0% abv