SE Nebraska Group Buy Round 2

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Bringing this thread full circle again...few places got back to me and once again said no discounts on kegs, only shipping on a large order. All were right at 50 per keg.

I dont really want to spend that much, but if people want too look into it more at 50 plus group shipping I will, otherwise the Mcever route seems like a better option. I dont care if it only has one handle. I would probably just break the other handle off and clean it up that way.
 
So you are saving yeast from a 1.080 beer Ehrman? If I am reading things correctly that is what you said. From all my research into this subject and experience I have always been under the impression that yeast from high gravity brews is very stressed out, prone to mutations, and has a larger percentage of dead cells. I think you are better served washing and saving yeasts from below 1.060 range.
 
Yes, high gravity brews have a higher percentage of dead yeast, but they're not completely non-viable. That's why I said to increase the pitch rate a bit. an 8% abv beer will be at 50% viability 14 days after reaching final FG, generally speaking. If you hit FG, then immediately pull the yeast, the viability is close 100% of what you'll get on Mr. Malty, based on your non-yeast percentage and a compact, thick slurry (after crashing for a few days).

I don't long-primary very often, so even the higher ABV brews I assume have a high viability. I'd prefer to let the beer age in the keg, off the yeast, so long as it's cleaned itself up and had no significant off flavors going into the keg. Now if a beer is displaying some unpleasant characteristics I feel could benefit from more time on the yeast, I'll rouse, increase temp slightly, and wait another week or two. This is all just my anecdotal experience, of course, but the figures in the first paragraph come from here (which is a great blog regarding yeast)

http://woodlandbrew.blogspot.com/2013/01/abv-effects-on-yeast.html
 
BigRedHopHead said:
So you are saving yeast from a 1.080 beer Ehrman? If I am reading things correctly that is what you said. From all my research into this subject and experience I have always been under the impression that yeast from high gravity brews is very stressed out, prone to mutations, and has a larger percentage of dead cells. I think you are better served washing and saving yeasts from below 1.060 range.
Click to expand...


Yeah, not to mention it was a repitched cake before I saved it. Lol, maybe I picked a bad time to save it. I may try it out on a small, or atleast cheap batch of beer to test my results..

Are there any known negative effects of pitching significant amounts of dead yeast? Since I have so much of the yeast, I would still be able to pitch an adequate amount of viable cells, along with the other half or more of dead cells..
 
agentEhrman said:
Yeah, not to mention it was a repitched cake before I saved it. Lol, maybe I picked a bad time to save it. I may try it out on a small, or atleast cheap batch of beer to test my results..

Are there any known negative effects of pitching significant amounts of dead yeast? Since I have so much of the yeast, I would still be able to pitch an adequate amount of viable cells, along with the other half or more of dead cells..
Click to expand...

Yes, you just have less living cells due to high alcohol content, BUT you also made more cells due to higher gravity/more sugars available, so...really it depends on how much time the yeast sat in the alcohol.
 
tre9er said:
Yes, you just have less living cells due to high alcohol content, BUT you also made more cells due to higher gravity/more sugars available, so...really it depends on how much time the yeast sat in the alcohol.
Click to expand...

Which is why you should avoid using higher gravity brews for washing/saving yeast. Not to get preachy! but it is just how I see the subject. AVOID high gravity brews for saving yeast!!
 
all i am saying is that repitching from a slurry has a lot of variability. Using yeast from lower gravity brews reduces some of that variance.
 
I agree, and the risk of autolysis flavors would be present. I suppose if you washed the yeast and felt that dead cells settled quicker, you could alleviate some of those concerns. Still, the best bet is to harvest yeast from lower gravity beers that didn't sit on the cake for an extended period of time, as exposure to alcohol definitely affects viability. I tend to only leave a beer in primary if it exhibits off flavors that can be cleaned up by it's own yeast. If it doesn't have any, I immediately rack to keg (if not secondarying on fruit/other) and cold condition it until serving. It's better for the beer and the yeast if you're saving it.
 
So what's everybody brewin up with your discounted grains?

I just brewed up a vienna lager that I need to do a diacetyl rest on, then move lager. (Since this was a smaller beer, I'm discard the lager yeast I saved from the dopplebock, and save this yeast instead.)

Next up, an imperial sweet stout with Creme Brulee from southern tier in mind.
 
I have been in the recipe section on here lately. Every time I spend an evening reading through threads I end up with a handfull of beers I want to make.

Yesterday I made the Cream of Three Crops Recipe. Last week I made the Strawberry Alarm Clock V3.0. Next week I am planning on making an American Wheat.

I am making beer for a graduation party in may. I also have a Blegian Golden Strong that I need to bottle next week. Hopefully it will carb up by May.

Links to the recipes...
https://www.google.com/url?sa=f&rct=j&url=https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f62/all-grain-cream-three-crops-cream-ale-66503/&q=&esrc=s&ei=b0lGUbSFGIeE2QWvkYAo&usg=AFQjCNGz17-EHZUoNHm4AeVsQ23vgAktqw

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f75/strawberry-alarm-clock-v3-0-strawberry-blonde-132129/.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f70/american-wheat-beer-2nd-place-best-show-2011-hbt-bjcp-competition-238940/
 
Hello all -- since many of you are fellow Lincolnites, I have a couple of first generation jars of saved yeast / slurry WLP 500 that I'd love to trade somebody for and neutral English or American Ale yeast.

The WLP500 was in a 1.048 witbier that chewed her down to about 1.009 in 10 days with no starter. I collected this on Friday night, so it's quite fresh.

Any takers?
 
I would but I have about 6 jars (over 1.5L) of that WLP500 yeast that I'M trying to get rid of. I've made so many belgian beers I'm quite sick of them! I also have about 1.5L of US-05 slurry, too.
 
I brewed a Honey Cascade beer seat-of-my-pants last weekend. Hoping for big honey aroma/flavor from the malt (have used before but never got enough of it) as I used 2lbs. in 9g batch. The cascades were whole-hops form Rhynalds in Prague, NE. I'll also be dry-hopping it with them next week.

I think it's time for me to get back to basic beers. I've done the belgians, the fruit beers, the weird banana-muffin-vanilla-such-and-such beeers...What I really enjoy is a good PA, IPA, and dark-ish lagers like Marzens. I've also been trying to source some 1+g glass containers (pickle jars, old carlo rossi wine jugs, anything) for small-batches brewed on the stove-top. That way I can experiment quickly and without having two kegs of beer to drink that may not have turned out how I wanted (anyone want some Belgian blonde? I'm so tired of belgian beers...have I mentioned that yet??!?!)
 
tre9er said:
I brewed a Honey Cascade beer seat-of-my-pants last weekend. Hoping for big honey aroma/flavor from the malt (have used before but never got enough of it) as I used 2lbs. in 9g batch. The cascades were whole-hops form Rhynalds in Prague, NE. I'll also be dry-hopping it with them next week.

I think it's time for me to get back to basic beers. I've done the belgians, the fruit beers, the weird banana-muffin-vanilla-such-and-such beeers...What I really enjoy is a good PA, IPA, and dark-ish lagers like Marzens. I've also been trying to source some 1+g glass containers (pickle jars, old carlo rossi wine jugs, anything) for small-batches brewed on the stove-top. That way I can experiment quickly and without having two kegs of beer to drink that may not have turned out how I wanted (anyone want some Belgian blonde? I'm so tired of belgian beers...have I mentioned that yet??!?!)
Click to expand...

I'll steal a couple bottles from ya tonight when I pick up my grain! :ban:
 
tre9er said:
The cascades were whole-hops form Rhynalds in Prague, NE. I'll also be dry-hopping it with them next week.

)
Click to expand...

Have you used their hops before? I talked with them and they said $20/pound for cascade. A little higher than I might be able to find, but I feel supporting local growers would be worth it.
 
BSDrews said:
Have you used their hops before? I talked with them and they said $20/pound for cascade. A little higher than I might be able to find, but I feel supporting local growers would be worth it.
Click to expand...

This is first time, but I know that Blue Blood and Empyrean breweries both have used them (Blue Blood uses them exclusively, or did at one time). For fresh local hops that's really not a bad price, though. You can also buy them by the ounce and one of their guys will meet you in Lincoln (Two of them work for BNSF), which is cool (no shipping).
 
I will be doing a vanilla creme ale and the Odell's easy street wheat beer this weekend. Going to split the wheat and make a citrus and a raspberry wheat in secondary.
 
tre9er said:
I've also been trying to source some 1+g glass containers (pickle jars, old carlo rossi wine jugs, anything) for small-batches brewed on the stove-top.
Click to expand...

Tre, I've got a 1 gallon glass jar you can have (stopper and airlock fit them), and I have a friend that has 3 more possibly. Would you want all 4 if I can get them for you?
 
Hey guys,

I have a Wyeast German Wheat pack on hand. I already smacked the pack but used something else in my brew...

I'm looking for suggestions on what to make with it. I have some maris otter ground up and would like to use it up. I also have as much wheat,2 row, and pale ale to use. Also about 12oz crystal 20L, a few ounces of roasted barley. plenty of kent goldings, 1 oz saaz.

I am going to make something with what is on hand. Any suggestions before I make a frankenstein beir?
 
davebstock said:
Hey guys,

I have a Wyeast German Wheat pack on hand. I already smacked the pack but used something else in my brew...

I'm looking for suggestions on what to make with it. I have some maris otter ground up and would like to use it up. I also have as much wheat,2 row, and pale ale to use. Also about 12oz crystal 20L, a few ounces of roasted barley. plenty of kent goldings, 1 oz saaz.

I am going to make something with what is on hand. Any suggestions before I make a frankenstein beir?
Click to expand...

Make a wheat beer, bitter with goldings, then a 10M saaz addition. Get to about 15 IBUs. Just 2-row and some wheat. That's my suggestion. OG around 1.045, sessionable.

Here:

6lbs. 2-row
4lbs. wheat
handful of rice hulls.

mash 153

KG 1oz at 60 (or FWH)
Saaz 1oz at 10 (might continuous hop this from 10 to 5)

ferment to stable FG in the high 60's, then bottle/keg. Enjoy.
 
agentEhrman said:
Tre, I've got a 1 gallon glass jar you can have (stopper and airlock fit them), and I have a friend that has 3 more possibly. Would you want all 4 if I can get them for you?
Click to expand...

YES! That would get me started on small batch brewing! Thanks man!
 
tre9er said:
Make a wheat beer, bitter with goldings, then a 10M saaz addition. Get to about 15 IBUs. Just 2-row and some wheat. That's my suggestion. OG around 1.045, sessionable.

Thanks for the input. I'm looking forward to brewing after work! This will make it 25 gallons of various brews in carboys. Two ready to bottle. Oh the variety!
Click to expand...
 
tre9er said:
YES! That would get me started on small batch brewing! Thanks man!
Click to expand...

Consider it done, I already have two of them at my house. Talked to my friend who I brewed the cider with, and he still has the other two. Once I get the other two I will save them until you can stop by for a beer and grab them.
I'm saving one for myself for yeast starters. BTW, cider is so easy to make. :cross:
 
agentEhrman said:
Consider it done, I already have two of them at my house. Talked to my friend who I brewed the cider with, and he still has the other two. Once I get the other two I will save them until you can stop by for a beer and grab them.
I'm saving one for myself for yeast starters. BTW, cider is so easy to make. :cross:
Click to expand...

:mug: thanks man!
 
Hey, fellow SE Neb group buy homebrewers...
I have a bunch of Centennial Hop rhizomes being shipped in fresh sometime next week.
I'm not looking to get rich on this, just looking to cover expenses and shipping.
I'll be selling them for $2.00 a rhizome.
Here's a chance to screen off your dog run or block your nosey neighbor's view of your hot tub.
Let me know with a PM if you're interested and how many you want.
First come, first served.
Cheers,
Keith
 
freeokw said:
Hey, fellow SE Neb group buy homebrewers...
I have a bunch of Centennial Hop rhizomes being shipped in fresh sometime next week.
I'm not looking to get rich on this, just looking to cover expenses and shipping.
I'll be selling them for $2.00 a rhizome.
Here's a chance to screen off your dog run or block your nosey neighbor's view of your hot tub.
Let me know with a PM if you're interested and how many you want.
First come, first served.
Cheers,
Keith
Click to expand...

Anyone know or have any experience moving hops after they've been growing? I've been waiting to start growing hops until I purchase a house. It's getting harder and harder to wait though, especially seeing posts like these!
 
I know nothing about growing hops, but I'd like to. Not sure I can keep the kids/dog out of them, but I'd sure try I guess. Best I could do is behind my garage. It's tight back there, maybe 5 or 6' between fence and garage, but I guess I could string up a few cables from ground to top of garage? Not sure if they'd be very long, maybe 10' high?
 
agentEhrman said:
Anyone know or have any experience moving hops after they've been growing? I've been waiting to start growing hops until I purchase a house. It's getting harder and harder to wait though, especially seeing posts like these!
Click to expand...

I've succesfully moved my "hop farm" three times over the past 28 years. Mine were in the ground, and involved digging the rhizome and root system and moving them to their new location. It aslo is an excellent opportunity to prune the rhizome into additional plants.

A lot of people very successfully raise hop in large, well fertilized containers.
Even if you lost a little in yield at harvest time, you would be establishing a strong root system that would enable your plants to take off once you moved and put the in the ground. You might be happy enough with container growing that all you'd need to do is move the containers to your new location.

Hops are very forgiving and relatively easy to grow!
 
tre9er said:
I know nothing about growing hops, but I'd like to. Not sure I can keep the kids/dog out of them, but I'd sure try I guess. Best I could do is behind my garage. It's tight back there, maybe 5 or 6' between fence and garage, but I guess I could string up a few cables from ground to top of garage? Not sure if they'd be very long, maybe 10' high?
Click to expand...

Tre, they'll easily surpass the 10ft mark, but will just move laterally once they've gone as far as they can go vertically.

Just make sure they get plenty of sun and are in well drained soil. I usually give them some very basic nitrogen and a bit of iron because their meteoric growth can deplete soil nutrients.

Again, hops are very forgiving, easy to raise and grow like crazy.
 
Keith, I was planning on planting a bunch of hops but didn't order in time. Let me know how many you have to sell. I have 14 acres so I have room for a few.

For those asking, hops grow 20-25' tall each season then start over the next season from the ground, sometimes growning a foot a day. The trouble is you have no idea what the alpha acid level is without having them tested. I dont think testing is cost effective unless selling them. So they can be used but not for precise brewing. Maybe do a test batch for estimating.

Give me a call Keith,
Dave. 402-926-1679
 
freeokw said:
Tre, they'll easily surpass the 10ft mark, but will just move laterally once they've gone as far as they can go vertically.

Just make sure they get plenty of sun and are in well drained soil. I usually give them some very basic nitrogen and a bit of iron because their meteoric growth can deplete soil nutrients.

Again, hops are very forgiving, easy to raise and grow like crazy.
Click to expand...

Backside of my garage is on the sunny side (southern) of things. Get's full sun all day once the sun rises over the horizon. What do you mean by well-drained soil?
 
Tre,
Just make sure the soil drains and doesn't retain water too much. You can mix sand into the soil for the area the rhizome is planted in to help drainage.
 
freeokw, I pm'ed you my contact info - I'd take 1 or 2 rhizomes - Thanks!!! Chriso

These must be those 50pk's of Centennial that I saw Nikobrew selling, yeah? Thanks for letting us get in on your merchandise!! Hehehe!
 
Airlock city

ForumRunner_20130331_214132.jpg
 
Variety is always good....why do all my pics load sideways/upside down? Hmmm...

ForumRunner_20130331_224033.jpg
 
....I had no idea that you could successfully grow hops in Nebraska. I don't have any room at my house but my family does have a 125 acre farm by Waverly..... Hmm. Are hop plants forgiving of let's say not a whole lot of attention? I'd plant them but maybe not be back to visit for a week at a time. I'm thinking since they can grow so high using some sort of a-frame with descending rope for them to climb.
 

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