Primary fermenter temp

I have my primary fermenter set up in the basement, and because of cooler 62-65 F temps down there, I've included a heater band. This brings it up to approximate room temp. I'm brewing a simple ale and heard that slightly warmer temps are preferred compared with lagers. I'm a day and a half in and its fermenting nicely.

Should I keep the heater band on, or am I better taking it off for a cooler fermentation? I'm concerned the basement is a little on the cool side.

Not sure what yeast you are using but it's usually listed on the packet what the optimum fermentation temp is. Personally if the room temp is actually between 62 and 65 I'd be pleased with that, fermentation in the primary will run warmer on its own.

At a day and a half in, it's probably too late to make any changes. While you are correct that ale yeasts need it warmer than lager yeasts, most of them give the best flavor if kept cooler. I like to keep my fermenter where the room is 62 to 64 and my ales come out with nice clean flavors. If I were doing lagers I would probably want the temperature closer to 50 degrees.

Let this batch ride as is but try the next one without the brew belt. I think you will like the difference it makes.

Here's an article that explains why I suggested you let this beer ride as is. http://www.brewgeeks.com/the-life-cycle-of-yeast.html

62-65 is a very good range for ales. i pretty much believe in using ale yeasts at the lowest temperature at which they will completely ferment the wort. i've been doing a lot in the 57-60 range, but that probably isn't appropriate for all strains.

save the heat belt for your belgians

Cooper's ale yeast gets sluggish below 64F. But US-05 would be happy at the temps you describe. I've found that Wyeast 3056 Bavarian Wheat Blend likes lower 60's temps as well. Fermented pretty steady at the lower 60's range. So no heat belt was needed.

I think your ambient temp is perfect- no need for the heat band. Fermentation itself generates heat, so the beer temp will be 3-7 degrees warmer than ambient anyway.

JLem said:

I think your ambient temp is perfect- no need for the heat band. Fermentation itself generates heat, so the beer temp will be 3-7 degrees warmer than ambient anyway.

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+1
But after active fermentation is finished, higher temperatures (maybe 70 - 72 degrees) would be good.

If I could go back in time to my first few brews (only back in January), I'd kick myself for wrapping my bucket with a heating pad...I kept my house temp at 62 degrees and thought that was on the low end and putting the heating pad would make it "happier". I didn't know that the heat from the fermenting would bring up the internal temps by 5 or more degrees.

Those few batches have an "off" taste to them and I contribute it to the excess heat.

I've since learned that temperature control is one of the most important factors in brewing (thanks to people here) and built an STC1000 controller for my extra fridge.

Anyway, I would just leave it without the heat belt if I were you.

The trouble is that the 62-65 is perfect for most ale yeast, but active fermentation will put your wort in the 65-75 range. Once it slows down the wort temperature will drop and this is what can cause it to get stalled/stuck. You're better off with a gradually increasing temperature to help with attentuation. It might work better if you use the belt after fermentation has slowed, but monitor the actual beer temperature to be sure it doesn't get too warm.

It looks like everyone is recommending the same thing here. Thanks for the tip. Hopefully this batvh turns out okay, but I'll lower it next time (and invest in a couple thermometers... room ambient and primary)

UPDATE: Its been 3 full days since I started the primary fermentation (mistakenly using a heater band), and all activity appears to have ceased. I had very active fermentation for 1-1.5 days with a thick krausen foam, though nothing after that. Sediment has settled and the liquid appears perfectly still.

Is this normal or did I inadvertantly disrupt the fermentation process?

I followed all other procedures correctly, though I only pitched 1 yeast packet for a 23L batch (instructions on the packet advised 1 packet per 11L). I figured this would be fine and that it'd just take a little longer for the yeast to multiply. Perhaps I was wrong?

Many fermentations go quickly, especially at warmer temps like you had yours. I would leave it alone for a week or so and then check the gravity to see where things are.

Since i started with a warmer temp, would it be wise to keep the heater band on when i transfer to the secondary fermenter?

Don't bother with secondary unless you really want to. It's a preference thing, but since your brew isn't a big beer, an extended primary (I always go 2-3 weeks) will be just fine. Sounds like you fermented at an ok temp, but I don't know I would go much higher than 70℉, you don't want any fusel alcohols, they can cause massive, sometimes multi-day headaches and render a beer undrinkable. You should be just fine though. Also, I've seen a LOT of threads in the last couple days about bottle bombs both here and other forums. Just make sure your FG is stable for 2 or 3 days before you bottle. Cheers!

rhys333 said:

Since i started with a warmer temp, would it be wise to keep the heater band on when i transfer to the secondary fermenter?

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No need to.

Also, why are you going to move it to secondary? Many folks here (myself included) see little reason to move a beer to a secondary vessel unless there is a good reason to (eg, adding fruit/oak, long-term bulk aging, lagering). Otherwise you can just leave it in primary for 2-3 weeks before packaging.

I wouldn't have used that heater band to start with. You have to look up the ideal temp range from the yeast manufacturer. Many brew supply sites have PDF's with this info. Those heat bands in my opinion are more for winter when you don't want the temp dropping below 60 or so. Again depending on that particular yeasts' ideal range.

JLem said:

No need to.

Also, why are you going to move it to secondary? Many folks here (myself included) see little reason to move a beer to a secondary vessel unless there is a good reason to (eg, adding fruit/oak, long-term bulk aging, lagering). Otherwise you can just leave it in primary for 2-3 weeks before packaging.

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I've been getting conflicting advice on whether to use a secondary or just stick with the primary for the entire fermentation. Are the majority of brewers using just one fermenter?

I did add rolled oat adjunct to this batch and theres a good amount of residue settled in the fermenter. Wondering if it would be advisable to use a secondary in this instance, just to get the beer off thr oat sediment.

I'm still very new at this, so sorry for all the questions

The yeast settles on top of the trub,so I don't think you need to move it.

rhys333 said:

I've been getting conflicting advice on whether to use a secondary or just stick with the primary for the entire fermentation. Are the majority of brewers using just one fermenter?

I did add rolled oat adjunct to this batch and theres a good amount of residue settled in the fermenter. Wondering if it would be advisable to use a secondary in this instance, just to get the beer off thr oat sediment.

I'm still very new at this, so sorry for all the questions

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I'd move it only if you weren't going to package it within 4 weeks (you can actually go longer, but chances are, if you don't bottle it before 4 weeks, you might not be able to get to it for a while - that's what happens to me - kid/family activities always seems to push bottling back)

Not sure if the majority of homebrewers skip the secondary, but it might be - there's enough people having great success skipping secondary that I honestly see little reason to move to a secondary for most "standard" beers.

Hmm, well I think I'll stay the course with this batch, but I'll need to rethink my process in the future. Trouble is, all the supply stores in my area are geared towards primary/secondary setups. Its pretty much impossible to find a primary tub with an airlock fitting. They all recommend fermenting 1 week in a primary (i.e.: large tub with a loose loose fitting lid and no airlock) then tranfer to a carboy with airlock for 1 more week.

I appreciate the all the advice on this though. Sticking with a single setup sure simplifies the process and I imagine also reduces the chance of contamination.