Ignorant "What Parts do I need" Thread for Corny Keg Setup

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adamjackson

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  • I have a Kegerator with two taps, two corny kegs but only one of the connectors is the right ball lock that I need
  • I like shopping Midwest Supplies but can shop other places too
  • I want to get a 3rd reconditioned keg, add another tap and get a bigger CO2 tank (from 5 pounds to 10)
  • I'd like to do this for cheap :)

So, here's my current setup:
525800_10150728770188078_559282290_n.jpg



The sticker job wasn't mine. I bought this 2nd hand. It has vertical space for a half keg OR 4 corny kegs and I'd like to at completion have 4 taps in this.

I have no idea what parts to get it's all so very confusing: So, I need the following things done but not sure what to buy:

  • New Corny Keg
  • A 3rd Tap (so I guess the faucent, handle, lines and connectors for a corny keg)
  • A new Regulator as the current regulator only suppots 2 kegs
  • A larger CO2 Tank
  • A drip tray that covers nearly the entire front of the fridge
  • A way to remove the stickers of naked women :)

I was looking at Midwest supplies and they have a lot of Keg systems but they're all coming with things I already have like 2 kegs for example.

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/kegging/kegging-systems/5-gallon-systems.html

If there's a page that basically goes through a questionaire of what you need and then shows you parts, that would be nice.
 
Maybe I should just get this and have two 4 pound CO2 tanks with two different regulators. Would that make things easier and upgrading to a 4-piece regulator and larger tank?

http://www.kegerator.com/RCK-LC-S-2...aft_Beer_Components-Kegerator_Conversion_Kits

Or something like this? I can then have two different systems with two different pressures and and not fool around with upgrading my current system but just adding on to it and putting in two more faucet taps

gnqFj.png
 
I have a Kegerator with two taps, two corny kegs but only one of the connectors is the right ball lock that I need

I'm just guessing that the previous owner had a sanke connector or something for the other output. You will probably just need a black quick disconnect (QD), barbed swivel nut and clamp.

Barbed Swivel Nut: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/barbed-swivel-nut-1-4-flare-5-16-barb-2.html
Liquid QD: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/ball-lock-liquid-fitting-threaded.html

Basically, the beer line slides onto the barb and the MFL connector on the other side of the swivel nut connects to the black liquid QD which is attached to the corny keg.

Like this except you need the tubing on the barb and then a clamp on that:

21Es5MOsD5L._SL500_AA300_.jpg


[*]A 3rd Tap (so I guess the faucent, handle, lines and connectors for a corny keg)
[*]A new Regulator as the current regulator only suppots 2 kegs

If you want to go through the fridge, you'll need a shank too. I'm not too familiar with shanks, so hopefully someone else will chime in.

You can use your same regulator. You can split one of the co2 lines with a T like this:

Stainless Tee: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/1-4-barbed-stainless-steel-t.html

If you want checkvalves, you can run on co2 line into a distributor/manifold...the regulator connects to the input of the distributor and then you have your keg outputs on the checkvalves:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/2-way-co2-distributor-5-16.html
 
If you're looking to go as cheap as possible, here's a basic run down of the bare bones you'll need. Midwest might have similar items, but I got a lot of my stuff at Kegconnection so I can show you what I'm talking about. Kegconnection is also great if you're looking at a kit, most of them they will customize to what you want, so you could even get ahold of them, tell you what you want to do and what you've already got, and they'll get you the rest.

First, you'll have to decide if you'll ever want commercial kegs. If you do, there are conversion kits that can switch between sankey and corny using the MFLs described above. Otherwise, you can simply cut the tubing right at the sankey connector and attach the corny disconnects. It looks like you've already got one gas (and I'm assuming one liquid), so you'd need two more gas and two more liquid disconnects for your three kegs.

For the gas side, a T is going to be the easiest way to split the two current gas lines into three. Just cut the gas line about a foot past the regulator, install the T and a new line, and you're good to go. If you make sure to never get liquid inside the gas lines (ie don't fill up past the gas outlet) checkvalves might not be necessary. However, if you want to be safe, checkvalves are a great way to protect everything, and you may want to check the splitter on the regulator to see if it has checkvalves already.

Now the liquid side, the cheapest route is going to be a picnic tap for the third keg. So long as you make sure the tap doesn't get accidentally turned on (maybe something to hang it out of the way), there's nothing wrong with a picnic tap. If you do decide to go with a tap, you'll need the shank for through the door, the connectors to attach the beer line to the shank (tail piece, hex nut, and washer), and a faucet. They also make shanks with a barbed nipple welded to the end so you can skip the connectors, but you'd have to compare prices. You can also find kits that come with the faucet/shank/connectors all in one.

Add a third keg, and you'd be good to go! That being said, if you've got a little extra funds and the inclination, there are a few places you could upgrade that would make your life easier. For starters, since this is a hand-me-down kegerator, I'd probably suggest switching out all the line for new ones. You'll already be buying some to set up the third, so get a little extra. Gas line is less important, but you'll feel better with nice, new beer line. Its suggested to start with 10 feet of 3/16 beer line for each tap, but there are balancing equations if you want to take a crack at them.

Also, if you decide to go with a faucet, take a look at the Perlicks. The cheaper standard faucets are great for bars where they're constantly used, but I know from experience that if you don't use them daily, they'll stick up on you real quick. If nothing else, start out with a picnic tap for the third keg and see how the other two treat you (assuming they're not perlicks) before buying a cheaper faucet. Otherwise you'll just be paying more to upgrade in the future, like I did!

Getting away from those, there are a bunch of other upgrades you can do that don't necessarily need to be done. Instead of chrome you can do stainless everything (shanks/faucets). Rather than the regulator you've got, if you want to do multiple pressures you can get additional bodies on a regulator. If you're gonna have three kegs (or four) on tap, you'll probably find that you want to have more than that sitting around building up a pipeline. Sometimes you can find deals on bundles of four kegs, which might be an option. Larger CO2 tank will mean less trips to get it filled. I could go on and on, but hopefully that gives you a start.

Oh, and I bet some goo-be-gone will do wonders for those stickers :).
 
Hi

What's on the other end of the faucets? Put another way - what does the inside of the fridge look like now?

Bob
 
Hi

What's on the other end of the faucets? Put another way - what does the inside of the fridge look like now?

Bob

I'll get a photo tonight when I'm home.


If you're looking to go as cheap as possible, here's a basic run down of the bare bones you'll need.

Holy crap man. What an amazing reply. Thanks!!!!
 
I would email pictures of your setup with details of what you want to do and a request for a detailed bid sheet to several vendors. Then if you have questions on what they recommend come back here for suggestions. There are several different ways to get to where you want to go. All have pros and cons and different price points.

I was lucky when I built my kegerator, I have a LHBS with a very good selection of kegging supplies at pretty decent prices and knowledgable staff. They hooked my up with everything I needed.
 
Okay, I actually just got on chat with Midwest Supplies and they took care of me. Spent a full hour with me and really answered all of my questions. It was an awesome conversation.

QRGmm.png


This is the order. So, with these parts, I can now have a 4-tap system at home with 4 corny kegs OR I can swap one of those our for a sankey commercial keg if I need to (one of the connectors will be threaded and not barbed).

Total kegerator investment is about $825 but that's not all that bad. $825 for 4 beers on tap and that includes buying 4 corny kegs at $50 a piece and then CO2 tank and having all stainless steel components.

I'm pretty stoked overall that I did it all for under $1,000. Thanks guys for the advice here! It helped make this less scary. Looking forward to having 4 beers on tap for 4th of July.

:ban:
 
Holy crap man. What an amazing reply. Thanks!!!!

Ha, no problem, I just got done putting mine together, so I still had everything at the front of my mind! Looks like Midwest got you set up with everything, now you've just got to get to brewing and filling them kegs!
 
Which gauge, the one reading the outflow or the one measuring what's in the tank? If its the one for the tank, don't bother as it doesn't really help that much anyways. The only time the tank gauge will change is if the temp shifts (because the CO2 inside is liquid), or right before it completely runs out. Obviously the other one is a little more important and should be replaced!
 
I came across an issue. Looks like the PSI gauge is broken. Have to order a replacement for $7.99.

Hi

Check the regulator for damage. The most common way to loose a gauge is when the bottle tips over. A regulator plus the two gauges (plus shipping) is a lot less than a gauge (plus shipping) and regulator pieces (plus shipping).

Bob
 
Which gauge, the one reading the outflow or the one measuring what's in the tank? If its the one for the tank, don't bother as it doesn't really help that much anyways. The only time the tank gauge will change is if the temp shifts (because the CO2 inside is liquid), or right before it completely runs out. Obviously the other one is a little more important and should be replaced!

The one reading the pressure (max reading is 60 PSI) so I figured that's important as I want to carb at a high PSI and serve at a low one.


Odd thing is...I can't get any CO2 into my kegs! I adjusted with a screw driver the regulator and Im getting nothing coming into the kegs. I'm still a total n00b but looking at online guides, I'm doing everything right but I hook it all up, pull the faucet, nothing happens.

Not sure if it's even worth sharing photos.
 
The one reading the pressure (max reading is 60 PSI) so I figured that's important as I want to carb at a high PSI and serve at a low one.


Odd thing is...I can't get any CO2 into my kegs! I adjusted with a screw driver the regulator and Im getting nothing coming into the kegs. I'm still a total n00b but looking at online guides, I'm doing everything right but I hook it all up, pull the faucet, nothing happens.

Not sure if it's even worth sharing photos.

Hi

Always worth sharing pictures....

Sounds like the regulator may be toast. Remember that the damaged gauge may be venting pressure. If it is you'll hear it.

Bob
 
Hi

Ok, VIDEO !!!!

From what I can see ... looks like the regulator is toast.

Valves are open in the last part of the video. Red handles parallel to the gas line = open. Full counter clockwise on the main valve = open. Regulator full on = screw tight down (full clockwise many turns) with a screw driver. The only part I can't tell is if the regulator screw is stopping on the lock nut. If it is then you need to get the lock nut out of the way.

Replacement regulator + valve sets are about a $30 item new and a *lot* less on Craig's List...

Good Luck!

Bob
 
Hi

Ok, VIDEO !!!!

From what I can see ... looks like the regulator is toast.

Valves are open in the last part of the video. Red handles parallel to the gas line = open. Full counter clockwise on the main valve = open. Regulator full on = screw tight down (full clockwise many turns) with a screw driver. The only part I can't tell is if the regulator screw is stopping on the lock nut. If it is then you need to get the lock nut out of the way.

Replacement regulator + valve sets are about a $30 item new and a *lot* less on Craig's List...

Good Luck!

Bob

Thanks Bob! One last question, is this sufficient?

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/double-co2-regulator.html

I'm going 4 kegs anyway and this would allow me to carb and serve and have PSI control on both setups. Thoughts? I can go ahead and get this one and group it with my other midwest order. Do I need valves for that?
 
Thanks Bob! One last question, is this sufficient?

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/double-co2-regulator.html

I'm going 4 kegs anyway and this would allow me to carb and serve and have PSI control on both setups. Thoughts? I can go ahead and get this one and group it with my other midwest order. Do I need valves for that?

Hi

That's a *very* nice regulator. The standard CO2 line size works with the 5/16" barbs. I have no idea why they use such enormous line, but they do.

Bob
 
Hi

That's a *very* nice regulator. The standard CO2 line size works with the 5/16" barbs. I have no idea why they use such enormous line, but they do.

Bob

Dang you're quick! Okay, I'm just gonna go for it. I try to, when possible, get quality parts early on so I can have some flexibility and hopefully re-use things down the road.

Cheers! Too bad I can't enjoy these home brews until next week.
 
My question was. On his invoice I see 1 perlick and 1 "all stainless" I was jw why.

OOOH That makes sense now.

The MIdwest guy steered me toward the perlick but my budget is getting VERY tight with this kegerator setup so I got this:

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/perlick-faucet-perl-525.html

and

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/nads-all-stainless-steel-faucet.html

So both are stainless and one is supposedly better.

The faucets currently on this are Chrome so that's a bummer but I'll upgrade them in time.
 
OOOH That makes sense now.

The MIdwest guy steered me toward the perlick but my budget is getting VERY tight with this kegerator setup so I got this:

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/perlick-faucet-perl-525.html

and

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/nads-all-stainless-steel-faucet.html

So both are stainless and one is supposedly better.

The faucets currently on this are Chrome so that's a bummer but I'll upgrade them in time.

Hi

If you shop around you can find the chrome Perlicks for about $18... they are very good faucets.


Bob
 
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