how does this look for a IIPA

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cwilliamsccn

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I am thinking about this recipe tomorrow but am open to criticism on my hopping schedule also I have about a pound of amarillo and was thinking of putting more in the dry hop.. also thinking about mixing all hops and doing a continuous hopping method..

Updated:

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 7.50 gal
Post Boil Volume: 5.50 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Bottling Volume: 4.75 gal
Estimated OG: 1.076 SG
Estimated Color: 10.1 SRM
Estimated IBU: 112.2 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 88.6 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
9 lbs 4.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 67.3 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 2 7.3 %
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 3 19.8 IBUs
0.50 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 4 23.4 IBUs
0.50 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - First Wo Hop 5 25.2 IBUs
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 6 10.9 IBUs
0.50 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 7 12.9 IBUs
0.50 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Boil 20. Hop 8 13.9 IBUs
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 9 6.1 IBUs
1.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05) Yeast 10 -
2 lbs Amber Dry Extract [Boil for 5 min](12.5 Dry Extract 11 14.5 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz Honey (1.0 SRM) Sugar 12 10.9 %
3.00 oz Amarillo Gold [9.30 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Day Hop 13 0.0 IBUs
 
You could change the 30 min Amarillo addition to 15 min and double it to 2 oz (or more), if you wanted more flavor with about the same IBUs.

I think you're right about putting more in the dry hop too. :D
 
For the second schedule, you could consider changing the 30 and 45 min additions to Amarillo (since it sounds like you have more of it) and then add those hops instead at 15 or less for more variety in your flavor/aroma. :fro:

That is, unless, you enjoy the aroma and flavor of Amarillo above the rest!
 
I do like Amarillo a lot but wanted to try some new hops (for me) columbus and chinook. If I do that swap and have more C's towards the end will they be overpowered by the 3oz Amarillo DH?
 
The dry hop will pretty much just be aroma. I bet you'd still taste the C's, and having their flavor/aroma to offset the Amarillo, even if just a little bit, would be good IMO. This is after just having brewed an Amarillo/Pale Ale Malt SMaSH.
 
Unless you're entering a competition with it, honestly don't bother with the dry hopping. You're just throwing money down the drain, and if you bottle, doubly so as the oxygen scavenger caps also like hydrocarbons and soak up hop aroma.

But sub in some of your late additions as FWH. You'll get as much bittering as roughly 20 minute addition (Gordon Strong) and tons of aroma and flavor. Also, I'd increase the amounts of late hop additions and do 40ish IBU with your bittering. Loading up on the late additions gives you more aroma and flavor. My IPAs have been better since adopting this practice.

Your volumes are curious to me, however, if those are standard for you nothing to worry about, I just find them odd.
 
Unless you're entering a competition with it, honestly don't bother with the dry hopping. You're just throwing money down the drain, and if you bottle, doubly so as the oxygen scavenger caps also like hydrocarbons and soak up hop aroma.

But sub in some of your late additions as FWH. You'll get as much bittering as roughly 20 minute addition (Gordon Strong) and tons of aroma and flavor. Also, I'd increase the amounts of late hop additions and do 40ish IBU with your bittering. Loading up on the late additions gives you more aroma and flavor. My IPAs have been better since adopting this practice.

Your volumes are curious to me, however, if those are standard for you nothing to worry about, I just find them odd.

Why would a dry hop be a waste of money? Aroma plays a big role in the overall experience, especially with IPA's and IIPA's. To each his own, but I would definitely dry hop this. I just wouldn't be satisfied myself without that big aroma. To the OP, I do agree that something seems like it might be off with your volumes...
 
Why would a dry hop be a waste of money? Aroma plays a big role in the overall experience, especially with IPA's and IIPA's. To each his own, but I would definitely dry hop this. I just wouldn't be satisfied myself without that big aroma. To the OP, I do agree that something seems like it might be off with your volumes...

Agreed. Dry hopsss!
 
Unless you're entering a competition with it, honestly don't bother with the dry hopping. You're just throwing money down the drain, and if you bottle, doubly so as the oxygen scavenger caps also like hydrocarbons and soak up hop aroma.

Holy cow, no! Dryhop ANY IPA or IIPA. You can bottle an IPA and IIPA just fine, but don't age them. They are meant to be drunk fresh.
 
Why would a dry hop be a waste of money? Aroma plays a big role in the overall experience, especially with IPA's and IIPA's. To each his own, but I would definitely dry hop this. I just wouldn't be satisfied myself without that big aroma. To the OP, I do agree that something seems like it might be off with your volumes...

Partially personal opinion. I don't care if my IPA or PA are putting off lots of odorous compounds.

The other part is that in my experience you need to use 3x the hops the LHBS gives you to get good aromatics from dry hopping. Thus saving the money.

And then, by using FWH and loading up on late additions, like in this case combining all those .25 oz additions into one large 2 oz addition at 20 minutes, you get more bang for the buck. If you're going for hop flavor and aroma, then don't boil off all that!

And BYO's most recent edition had an article about hops and how the aroma gets sucked up by the oxygen scavenger caps, as per a professional brewer. And my experience has confirmed this. My brother brewed a Two-Hearted clone in a 10 gallon batch back in March. I was just up there a week ago and it tasted pretty fresh out of the keg. Bottles of the same brew (different vintage) after 6 months were terrible and lacking in hop flavor and aroma.
 
Holy cow, no! Dryhop ANY IPA or IIPA. You can bottle an IPA and IIPA just fine, but don't age them. They are meant to be drunk fresh.

Indeed drink fresh for IPA and PA!

But, it's not a requirement to dry hop them. By switching to FWH and late additions, you can avoid the dry hops and save overall. Seriously, I haven't dry hopped any IPA for a year and if I gave you a sample I'm betting you couldn't tell.

EDIT:

And another thing...

For competitions I've entered, I've had IPAs that were dry hopped with 3 oz or more where I was told to dry hop more. I've been told to use more of a particular hop when that has been the predominant hop. And I've seen reviews of a brew that was all a single hop told to use more of that hop to balance the other hop flavor. So, yeah.
 
I don't bottle anymore, as for dry hopping I like the aroma and think its important in my IIPA i just noticed the funky water volumes beersmith created so I will go adjust that and see where it leaves me. I agree I should move up some of the C's to 15-20 additions I will repost with my final recipe later and results in a few weeks. Cheers.
 
Brewed today. hit all targets for the first time ever, was shooting for 75 and got it right on. 1.076 OG for beersmith says 112% measured efficiency not sure why? maybe because my volumes were right on too?
 
Kegged it today, FG was 1.014 it really.doesn't seem like 100 ibu's its not fully carbed but still seems lower on bitterness.
 
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