SWA-2451 PID w/Timer

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WAORGANY

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Greetings, everyone and thanks in advance for the help.

I brewed my first batch of beer last weekend on my recently completed eHERMS system.

I had issues with the PID that controls the HLT.

It is an Auber SWA 2451 w/ timer.

I thought I had it programmed to AT and had the temp set to 154....

it went up through that while brewing, I was able to catch it before it got to high, but now need to figure out what needs to be done to correct the issue. If anyone has experience on this controller please let me know. I want to brew again, but would like to resolve this issue first.

I am sure that it it is something simple that I either did or failed to do. Thanks for the help, all the best.

RLTW.
 
I have two of the SWA-2451 PIDs and I don't recall auto tuning being an issue. The manual does state that if your system is slow to respond it will take the process longer to complete. I'd suggest you run a full volume water test. Auto tuning will exceed your SV as the process has to learn how quickly your system losses heat as well as how quickly it is added.

The diagram in the manual paragraph 4.2.3 indicated the SV will be exceeded at least twice and the text mentions it could occur as many as 3 times while AT is running
 
I have two of the SWA-2451 PIDs and I don't recall auto tuning being an issue. The manual does state that if your system is slow to respond it will take the process longer to complete. I'd suggest you run a full volume water test. Auto tuning will exceed your SV as the process has to learn how quickly your system losses heat as well as how quickly it is added.

The diagram in the manual paragraph 4.2.3 indicated the SV will be exceeded at least twice and the text mentions it could occur as many as 3 times while AT is running

Thanks stlbeer, I will fill it up and run a few cycles through to see what happens.
 
Ok, here are the ones that mean anything. I hope they work for you. These are from my RIMS PID. I have a 2000W 240v element in it running at 240v.

SC 2.0
P 7.9
I 89
D 6
t 2
HY 1.0
HY1 1.0
HY2 1.0
dP 1
COOL OFF
Sn PT
CF F
 
Ok, here are the ones that mean anything. I hope they work for you. These are from my RIMS PID. I have a 2000W 240v element in it running at 240v.

SC 2.0
P 7.9
I 89
D 6
t 2
HY 1.0
HY1 1.0
HY2 1.0
dP 1
COOL OFF
Sn PT
CF F

Thanks stlbeer !!! I will check this against what I have set and got from there.
 
Still having issues with my PID over shooting the set temps...any ideas, thoughts comments? need to brew another batch but would like to get these issues solved! Anyone else have and are using this PID? Thanks in advance.
 
So, do see an indicator light on the PID that shows that it continues to signal the SSR to provide power? If not, is it possible the SSR is getting stuck in a closed state?
 
So, do see an indicator light on the PID that shows that it continues to signal the SSR to provide power? If not, is it possible the SSR is getting stuck in a closed state?

Yeah I am pretty sure the light stays on I am going to try to At it again tomorrow and see I will check the light then thanks.
 
No problem. I'm just trying to think through the simple stuff. When you manually turn it off, are you using the PID to do that or are you using a switch (or contactor)? If the latter, it would be interesting to see if you could switch it off with the PID and see if the SSR shuts off appropriately. Maybe try it not in autotune mode with a relatively low setpoint. You could also try with the PID in manual mode and see what happens.

It appears that either the SSR is getting stuck closed, of if not, then you have a bad PID. It might be worth a call to Auber also. Good luck with it.
 
Additional info that would be helpful - where is your temp probe? Do you recirculate the whole time? How many of the green LEDs are on onthe left of the PID when it's running? I know with mine, it's painfully easy to accidentally set it to M100, even with a PV set, and not realize it right away.

If you can throttle the temperature by putting the PID into manual mode and running it at a lower %, then that should eliminate the stuck SSR issue (or, alternatively, confirm it if the temp still climbs wildly).
 
Additional info that would be helpful - where is your temp probe? Do you recirculate the whole time? How many of the green LEDs are on onthe left of the PID when it's running? I know with mine, it's painfully easy to accidentally set it to M100, even with a PV set, and not realize it right away.

If you can throttle the temperature by putting the PID into manual mode and running it at a lower %, then that should eliminate the stuck SSR issue (or, alternatively, confirm it if the temp still climbs wildly).

I can't even get it to work at all now, tried to go back a reprogram it all and get it set was going to run through and try to auto tune it again and start over...filled HLT with 13 gallons of water turned it all on and can't get the element to do anything. temp probe is in HLT near the bottom...about ready to through this thing away...very frustrated now can't even heat water so can't brew!!!! I know it is probably just me but this should be just a tad easier than this to do/figure out...can't even get the water temp to show up now? PV says HH....ready to start drinking, doesn't look like I will be brewing tomorrow..last chance for several weeks...any thoughts...leaning towards buying another PID and selling this crap...thanks...anyone who knows how to use this PID make a Youtube video LOL...
 
Certainly sounds like a bad PID. I suggest calling Auber and seeing if they will replace it.
 
I know my PID shows HH when the probe is not connected. It also won't heat or do anything if the probe isn't connected. Check your probe wiring to the PID - you could have a loose wire that's causing all kinds of issues for you.

-Kevin
 
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