Building simple electric system – manual control with pwm, gravity fed (no pumps)

Basically I’m converting my propane rig to electric. I’m looking at doing something similar to this:



With the following exceptions:

1.) No pumps.

2.) The PID would be replaced with a PWM like this one:

http://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=383
with the C1 replaced by 2.2uF capacitor as done by many on this site. I would use a 12VDC wall wort or equivalent to provide input power.

3.) I would use a main disconnect switch to function as both the e-stop and the on/off switch instead of like the diagram, mostly because I have some. It’s a 40A 380V rated switch by Entrelec that looks like this:


Also, I would probably add an indicator light to show when power is on even when the heating elements are off.

P-J, any chance you could update a schematic for me?

Congratulations on keeping it simple!

The only advantage to PID controlling these is the ability to "walk away"/hands off while pre-heating the mash tun and/or boil kettle. You can set the HLT to your strike temp while doing other things, and it'll be ready for you when you are.

You can also set your Boil pot to slightly below boiling (for your altitude), and it won't boil over if you are out of the room. Then go to manual mode/pwm for controlling the boil when you come back.

There are PIDs with platinum RTDs and SSR for around $40 from ebay shipped from the US. If you want a slight upgrade, it's worth considering.

Rich

-TH- said:

Basically I’m converting my propane rig to electric. I’m looking at doing something similar to this:

...

P-J, any chance you could update a schematic for me?

Click to expand...

Sorry. I don't do PWM setups.

P-J

RichBenn said:

Congratulations on keeping it simple!

The only advantage to PID controlling these is the ability to "walk away"/hands off while pre-heating the mash tun and/or boil kettle. You can set the HLT to your strike temp while doing other things, and it'll be ready for you when you are.

You can also set your Boil pot to slightly below boiling (for your altitude), and it won't boil over if you are out of the room. Then go to manual mode/pwm for controlling the boil when you come back.

There are PIDs with platinum RTDs and SSR for around $40 from ebay shipped from the US. If you want a slight upgrade, it's worth considering.

Rich

Click to expand...

Could you give a link to an example? I would appreciate it!

P-J said:

Sorry. I don't do PWM setups.

P-J

Click to expand...

Out of curiosity why not?

-TH- said:

Out of curiosity why not?

Click to expand...

Setting up a diagram is complicated enough as it is. The PIDs provide all of the control needed IF the correct one is chosen (PID with manual mode).

P-J said:

Setting up a diagram is complicated enough as it is. The PIDs provide all of the control needed IF the correct one is chosen (PID with manual mode).

Click to expand...

Okay that's fine I totally understand if you don't want make one up. The schematic is quite simple actually, I've sketched my own but I thought it would be nice to have one of your versions posted here because they look nice and that's what people are used to seeing. No problem, I'll make something up to post.

RichBenn said:

Congratulations on keeping it simple!

The only advantage to PID controlling these is the ability to "walk away"/hands off while pre-heating the mash tun and/or boil kettle. You can set the HLT to your strike temp while doing other things, and it'll be ready for you when you are.

You can also set your Boil pot to slightly below boiling (for your altitude), and it won't boil over if you are out of the room. Then go to manual mode/pwm for controlling the boil when you come back.

There are PIDs with platinum RTDs and SSR for around $40 from ebay shipped from the US. If you want a slight upgrade, it's worth considering.

Rich

Click to expand...

Thanks for the input! I haven't completely ruled out a pid yet but on my propane rig I use a remote thermometer that has a receiver I can walk around with and I just turn the burner off when I get to temp. Haven't overshot it once. All that being said I do like the coolness factor of the pid. If I go that route however wouldn't I also need 2 temp probes and fittings for the bk & hlt? If I could really get it all for 40 I might. I know it doesn't sound like much $$$ but I'm just having a hard time because it's not something I really need at this point (says the guy with the pneumatic bottle capper - go figure).

Here's my electrical diagram that I made by chopping up one of P-J's.

Revised my plans a little bit, here's the latest revision:

I'll be watching this thread...it's almost exactly what i'm looking to set up, but I'll be adding a pump to the mix.

I've got another month or two til I can start, though, so I'll be watching to learn what I can.

"2.) The PID would be replaced with a PWM like this one: with the C1 replaced by 2.2uF capacitor as done by many on this site. I would use a 12VDC wall wort or equivalent to provide input power."



I am looking into building a system very similar in simplicity. Can you explain more on the C1 - 2.2uf Cap replacement.

mojobently said:

"2.) The PID would be replaced with a PWM like this one: with the C1 replaced by 2.2uF capacitor as done by many on this site. I would use a 12VDC wall wort or equivalent to provide input power."



I am looking into building a system very similar in simplicity. Can you explain more on the C1 - 2.2uf Cap replacement.

Click to expand...

Start here at the bottom of page 3:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/pwm-boil-kettle-control-159193/