Weldless brew stand.

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Duke- i was actually thinking of doing 2 runs....one exaust fan and one in the opposite direction pulling in fresh air from outside to the stand. I would think that'd work, huh?]Thanks for all the help on this so far. Appreciate it.

That should work fine too. No problem, just let me know of you have any other questions
 
Forgive me if this has already been stated in this thread, but I did a search on the thread and didn't find anything. Planning on making a weldless stand out of galvanized strut and my system is going to be all electirc (kal clone). Since it's going to be electirc, do I have to worry at all about the zinc toxic fumes?

Thanks.
 
Forgive me if this has already been stated in this thread, but I did a search on the thread and didn't find anything. Planning on making a weldless stand out of galvanized strut and my system is going to be all electirc (kal clone). Since it's going to be electirc, do I have to worry at all about the zinc toxic fumes?

Thanks.

I dont THINK you would have to worry on an electric system. An electric rig probably won't exceed 700 degrees surface temperature, which is the melting point of zinc. Guys use wood for support on electric systems all the time and the wood doesn't even scorch.

However, I am curious about the guys using burners. In theory, you can do a burn off and then use your system, but are you sure you burned it all off? And them once it's off aren't you worried about the rig rusting? Brewing is food prep and I wouldn't want ANY rust on my rig. Is planned replacement the idea?

I am curious how it is working out for you guys who are using galvanized steel rigs as I am planning a build in the next few weeks and would like to hear real world usage experience?
 
I dont THINK you would have to worry on an electric system. An electric rig probably won't exceed 700 degrees surface temperature, which is the melting point of zinc. Guys use wood for support on electric systems all the time and the wood doesn't even scorch.

However, I am curious about the guys using burners. In theory, you can do a burn off and then use your system, but are you sure you burned it all off? And them once it's off aren't you worried about the rig rusting? Brewing is food prep and I wouldn't want ANY rust on my rig. Is planned replacement the idea?

I am curious how it is working out for you guys who are using galvanized steel rigs as I am planning a build in the next few weeks and would like to hear real world usage experience?

I sprayed mine with high temp grill paint, no rust yet and has been a little over a year.
 
O.S.H.A. comments on zinc burning on galvanized steel. Not as bad as previously discussed.

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Occupational-OSHA-Environmental-1417/2010/6/galvanized-metal.htm

Thanks, interesting read. Zinc toxins might be one of those "boogie men" due to the fact everyone is either using their rig outside or with a ventilation hood.

However, from the pics I am seeing the zinc is flaking off, and in the interest of sanitation, I really don't want my rig having anything flaking off. And then...once the zinc is off it is basically bare metal exposed with a lot of liquid and steam around it. And in the interest of sanitation I don't want my rig rusting. You wouldn't go to a deli where the sandwiches were made on a rusty table, or the meat was cooked on a rusty grill. Brewing is basically food prep. Rust and other decay (zinc flakes) somehow migrate, and always to where you want you want it the least.

I wonder if painting over the zinc would prevent the the zinc under the paint from flaking off under high temperature. The paint would certainly stop the rust (with regular touch ups of course).
 
Started working in mine this weekend. Got the frame pretty much finished, now it's time to start attaching pumps, burners, plumbing, gas line, etc.

I ended up paying to have it all shipped from McMaster Carr, since there isn't one near me. Even with $40 shipping, it was still cheaper than getting it from the local Home Depot!

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You guys are great. Following this thread, I was able to build one of these stands for myself, and I just brewed my first batch on it yesterday. I love it; it's such a huge improvement over my old single burner, single kettle setup. No more balancing my cooler mash tun on top of a trash bin. The burners are higher BTU and have better shielding than my old burner, so everything heats up much faster and I don't lose boil when the wind picks up.

Here's a pic I snapped during the zinc burn-off. I haven't hit it with any grill paint yet, but I intend to before any rust has a chance to set in.

brewstand.jpg
 
You guys are great. Following this thread, I was able to build one of these stands for myself, and I just brewed my first batch on it yesterday. I love it; it's such a huge improvement over my old single burner, single kettle setup. No more balancing my cooler mash tun on top of a trash bin. The burners are higher BTU and have better shielding than my old burner, so everything heats up much faster and I don't lose boil when the wind picks up.

Here's a pic I snapped during the zinc burn-off. I haven't hit it with any grill paint yet, but I intend to before any rust has a chance to set in.


Looks awesome! I have been going back and forth on what I want in a brew stand for awhile now and finally decided I am building one of these in the Spring.
 
Has anyone used SS round bar to support their brew kettles?
This would eliminate the need for a zinc burn-off and would prevent rust on the surfaces in contact with the flame.
Thinking of getting some 1/2" x 2' and using SS u-bolts to hold it to the frame. Could probably go with a smaller size to save some money.
I am in the planing stage of my wield less brew stand; any feedback would help. Thanks

R412:
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/stainless2.phtml?page=round&LimAcc= &aident=#p1561
 
Has anyone used SS round bar to support their brew kettles?
This would eliminate the need for a zinc burn-off and would prevent rust on the surfaces in contact with the flame.
Thinking of getting some 1/2" x 2' and using SS u-bolts to hold it to the frame. Could probably go with a smaller size to save some money.
I am in the planing stage of my wield less brew stand; any feedback would help. Thanks

R412:
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/stainless2.phtml?page=round&LimAcc= &aident=#p1561

I looked extensively at using round bar or pipe for a brew stand. Round bar is overkill as far as structural needs go but it will work if its cost effective for you. Round pipe would work, I would recommend Sch 40 or 80. Round tubing can be used I suppose but why risk it...you are talking about potentially supporting 300 lbs of boiling liquid...you dont want that to collapse on you.

The trick is assembling it. There are MYRIAD pipe fittings what can be used. But, and here is the rub, they are either made of aluminum which is NOT structurally sound at the temps this thing will reach, or galvanized or iron...which why bother using SS bar if the fittings are going to burn zinc/rust.

I really wanted to make it work as I have a good resource for Sch 40 SS pipe on the cheap but the fittings made it untenable.

But if you can find a solution that I overlooked it would be a really unique, awesome stand.
 
Anyone in Northern VA area build one of these? I would like to attempt, but I am all thumbs when it comes to construction.
 
I looked extensively at using round bar or pipe for a brew stand. Round bar is overkill as far as structural needs go but it will work if its cost effective for you. Round pipe would work, I would recommend Sch 40 or 80. Round tubing can be used I suppose but why risk it...you are talking about potentially supporting 300 lbs of boiling liquid...you dont want that to collapse on you.

The trick is assembling it. There are MYRIAD pipe fittings what can be used. But, t and here is the rub, they are either made of aluminum which is NOT structurally sound at the temps this thing will reach, or galvanized or iron...which why bother using SS bar if the fittings are going to burn zinc/rust.

I really wanted to make it work as I have a good resource for Sch 40 SS pipe on the cheap but the fittings made it untenable.

But if you can find a solution that I overlooked it would be a really unique, awesome stand.

My proposal is to build it as described on the first few pages; but lay the round bar across the strut above the burner to support the vessels instead of using the galvanized angle. This is where the majority of the heat will be concentrated.
 
SS U-bolts.

Again; I am just brainstorming right now. Don't really need a new stand but these pictures really make me want one.

Well, i did need a stand ....and here it is. Thanks to this thread i was able to convince myself to build one. So thanks everyone!!!

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Ordered the parts from McMaster. Unfortunately work is nuts right now, and I'll be in California for a couple weeks, so it'll probably be late May before I get to brew on this thing!
 
Has anyone used SS round bar to support their brew kettles?
This would eliminate the need for a zinc burn-off and would prevent rust on the surfaces in contact with the flame.
Thinking of getting some 1/2" x 2' and using SS u-bolts to hold it to the frame. Could probably go with a smaller size to save some money.
I am in the planing stage of my wield less brew stand; any feedback would help. Thanks

R412:
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/stainless2.phtml?page=round&LimAcc= &aident=#p1561

See mine in post #516 in this thread. I used 3/8" stainless round bar w/ 3/8" ID high temp silicone hose at the ends under the u-bolts (the red things in the picture). The bars in the flame get too hot for the silicone hose I was using as an insulator so I would skip that part where you have burners. Instead, I'm going to wrap the ends with a extreme temp ceramic strip (comes in a roll, part no. 87575K81) at the burner locations (the rack in the middle for my cooler is fine with just the silicone hose. In general the frame stays cool though which is good since I bought the green stuff to avoid rust everywhere and didn't want it all burning off. Should get my 2nd pump today and working to streamline the process of brew day. Also, I plumbed my frame with black pipe which is great as it's rigid enough to support the cheap burners I have currently. I'll upgrade my burners once I have everything else on the cart done. I'll take photos of it again after it's been used a few times. Final comment is to buy the needle valves if you find them. The standard valves I'm using work, but they are hard to control. I didn't want to spend the money on the needle valves as I'm seriously contemplating getting the electric ASCO gas valves instead and I'd just use the ones I have as a fail-safe/emergency off.
 
By the way - I read through all 62 pages of this thread, and didnt see any updates/photos from the engine/bbq-black painted builds. I'd be curious to see how the paint holds up, and perhaps some photos of how bad it flakes and/or peels from direct flame exposure.
 
See mine in post #516 in this thread. I used 3/8" stainless round bar w/ 3/8" ID high temp silicone hose at the ends under the u-bolts (the red things in the picture). The bars in the flame get too hot for the silicone hose I was using as an insulator so I would skip that part where you have burners. Instead, I'm going to wrap the ends with a extreme temp ceramic strip (comes in a roll, part no. 87575K81) at the burner locations (the rack in the middle for my cooler is fine with just the silicone hose. In general the frame stays cool though which is good since I bought the green stuff to avoid rust everywhere and didn't want it all burning off. Should get my 2nd pump today and working to streamline the process of brew day. Also, I plumbed my frame with black pipe which is great as it's rigid enough to support the cheap burners I have currently. I'll upgrade my burners once I have everything else on the cart done. I'll take photos of it again after it's been used a few times. Final comment is to buy the needle valves if you find them. The standard valves I'm using work, but they are hard to control. I didn't want to spend the money on the needle valves as I'm seriously contemplating getting the electric ASCO gas valves instead and I'd just use the ones I have as a fail-safe/emergency off.

Do you feel like you need the 6 support rods per kettle?
I was thinking just 2 per kettle; they should be able to easily hold the weight even if they are toasty.
 
Do you feel like you need the 6 support rods per kettle?
I was thinking just 2 per kettle; they should be able to easily hold the weight even if they are toasty.

The innermost ones can get red hot. 6 is definitely rock solid. I probably did more than needed, but better safe than sorry when dealing with 10+ gallons of boiling wort. If you went with the 1/2" diameter it would probably be fine, but if you're going with the 3/8" I'd probably do 4 at a minimum.

The other issue for me is stability. I sometimes move my cart mid process (out of the rain for instance) and the wider base allows it to be a little more stable.
 
I installed some steel for the full length to keep the flame/pots off the perforated angle iron and the iron still looks perfect (not faded and "crispy"). It was simple to add on and acts as a very good burner grate.

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I happen to know a guy who owns a huge metal finishing plant nearby. Just a big old building filled with giant boiling vats of acid and other exciting things. I'm thinking of bringing him all my cut parts and having him strip the plating off and do a heat-resistant finish, whether it's some kind of electro-plated finish or powder coat, I'll leave it up to his expertise. I'll let you guys know how that goes...
 
SuckaMooHudda said:
I installed some steel for the full length to keep the flame/pots off the perforated angle iron and the iron still looks perfect (not faded and "crispy"). It was simple to add on and acts as a very good burner grate.

Now that looks interesting. Does that reduce the heat transfer to the rest of the stand? Are you concerned about rust? I was also thinking of using some old stainless steel BBQ grates but concerned about the weight..
 
Now that looks interesting. Does that reduce the heat transfer to the rest of the stand? Are you concerned about rust? I was also thinking of using some old stainless steel BBQ grates but concerned about the weight..

It does reduce heat transfer for sure. As far as rust, I am very careful when I brew. I pay very close attention to my boil kettle and avoid all spillovers. I am sure to keep any general splashing to a minimum and if it gets water on it I am sure to dry it off quickly. The stand is all "rustable" so you do have to be somewhat vigilant, but I have had no problems with my first several batches.
 
Has anyone used one of these builds on a wooden deck? I'm interested, but concerned about how hot everyone says this thing gets. I use my grill on the deck without concern, but that thing doesn't heat up towards the bottom. My guess is that the casters themselves aren't getting too hot, but I'd really prefer not to start a fire!! :D
 
Mine is cool to the touch except for about the top 1/4. I would have total confidence using mine on a deck, for sure... and there is nobody more paranoid than me. Also, mine is not on casters.
:cross:
 
SuckaMooHudda said:
Mine is cool to the touch except for about the top 1/4. I would have total confidence using mine on a deck, for sure... and there is nobody more paranoid than me. Also, mine is not on casters.
:cross:

Thank you for that feedback!
 
I am assuming the McMaster-Carr part numbers have changed from the initial build by sam and bender because when I search for them I get the right dimensions of slotted angle, but different part numbers: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/1915/=mr3y0u

I am planning on building one of these over the next few months and didn't feel like perusing through the entire thread (laziness :)) to get an answer, so I thought I would ask. The 2 1/4" x 1 1/2" angle is now listed as 4664T19 and the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" is listed as 4664T18. Are those the same part numbers that were used by anyone who recently ordered?
 
Alright, I did it. Turned out nice so far. Adding burners in a few weeks. I'm also going to change the pump so the outlet is pointing up. I think I'm going to do banjo burners. Does it really matter high or low pressure?

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I'm finishing up my slot steel brew stand (Brew'in Hilda) I have Hurricane 60K/BTU burners installed (two),I do single infusion mash for now but will eventually try stepped mash, I'm ready to pipe my stand for LPG. Since the hurricane burners work on 11" WC what regulator are you using with your rig? Can two burners run at the same time with enough LPG volume to crank them up to max BTU if I needed it with a 11" WC regulator. I'd probably run my boil kettle burner while sparging just to stop enzyme action on the wort over the 30minute sparge while simultaneously keeping the sparge water at 170 degrees in the HLT.
I guess if I have to ask this seemingly silly question I should have someone else pipe up the system for me although someone once said there are no stupid questions only stupid answers :cross:

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