I want to install a 5500W 240V heating element in my HLT and BK to supplement propane. I will only be running one heating element at a time. The easiest route to power the heating elements is to run 25' of 10/3 wire from my dryer outlet to my brewing station. The dryer outlet has a 30A double-pole breaker. My question is how do I wire 10/3 wire to a four prong dryer and GFI protect it?
Help Wiring 240V Heating Element
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abarnett
Well-Known Member
Cheapest solution is to get a GFCI Spa Panel and 4-prong outlet from Home Depot. The Spa Panel provides a safe place to split the 3-wires from the dryer outlet into 4 (if your dryer outlet only provides 3).
There are wiring diagrams for that here, including if your dryer outlet is 3-wire or 4-wire.
And you can either mount the 4-prong outlet in a separate box, or most of the spa panels have room if you don't mind drilling out a hole.
There are wiring diagrams for that here, including if your dryer outlet is 3-wire or 4-wire.
And you can either mount the 4-prong outlet in a separate box, or most of the spa panels have room if you don't mind drilling out a hole.
abarnett
Well-Known Member
The heating element doesn't need Neutral. There are only two screws on the element, for the two hot lines. Then you bring ground over to ground the equipment. Neutral doesn't get connected. You only need Neutral if you're trying to split the 240v down to 120v for a control panel or pump.
jCOSbrew
Well-Known Member
With 5500 watt elements you probably wont need the propane unless you are doing back to back batches.
So just cut the white and leave it loose or do I need a nut to protect it?
Wrap it in electrical tape to insulate the end. You might change your wiring plans later on so you would want to leave as much of the cable in tact as possible.
abarnett
Well-Known Member
Replace the 4 prong outlet in/at the spa panel with a 3 prong, and don't split/connect the Neutral. That's actually safer, since you're terminating the Neutral inside a panel.
But keep in mind the common upgrade path for any electric brewery is likely going to involve a 4 wire setup. You may want to put a little extra effort/money in now to save yourself a lot of extra effort/money down the road.
You also might consider asking an electrician to install the spa panel and outlet for you. Especially if you buy all of the materials yourself, the cost for the labor may be worth the added peace of mind.
But keep in mind the common upgrade path for any electric brewery is likely going to involve a 4 wire setup. You may want to put a little extra effort/money in now to save yourself a lot of extra effort/money down the road.
You also might consider asking an electrician to install the spa panel and outlet for you. Especially if you buy all of the materials yourself, the cost for the labor may be worth the added peace of mind.
How large are your batches? A propane burners should give you plenty of power, no? Or was that a typo and you're on a stovetop burner?
I'd be a bit nervous with electrical connections in the vicinity of open flames, no? Maybe I'm wrong as my propane days were a number of years ago, but the potted electrical connections are obviously right up against the keggle. JMO.
I'd be a bit nervous with electrical connections in the vicinity of open flames, no? Maybe I'm wrong as my propane days were a number of years ago, but the potted electrical connections are obviously right up against the keggle. JMO.
I am currently doing 10 gallon batches outside on a two burner single tier stand. I have shifted direction and I'm basically trying to find a way of brewing inside to avoid the insane summer heat. I would be doing 5 gallons batches on either 110V 20A GFI which is already available or 220V 30A which would require installation of spa panel.
I have changed direction. My intent is to build a 5 gal batch system (7.5 gal pre boil) BIAB kettle that will work on 120V. I figure I will need 2 120V 2000W heating elements to get this volume to boil. I have 2 GFCI receptacles in my kitchen that are on separate 20A circuits. Since I will be pulling 16.7A per heating element I would like to ensure that everything is rated up to 20A. My GFCI receptacles look like this so I assume this is a 15A GFCI receptacle. There is nothing on the receptacle to indicate what amp it is.
I plan to follow this wiring diagram except I would like individual switches and lights on the heating elements. If someone could help modifying this diagram to have switches and lights I would greatly appreciate it.
I plan to follow this wiring diagram except I would like individual switches and lights on the heating elements. If someone could help modifying this diagram to have switches and lights I would greatly appreciate it.
thorongil
Well-Known Member
In my experience a 2000W element will barely boil 5.5 gal. I start with 6.5 then drain off 1.5 and boil it on the stovetop. I'll add this back in the last 10 min or so of the boil...
I drew and posted a diagram today that will probably fit your request:
Electric Brewing Forum: 110v recirculating ebiab 2.5 gallon batches - post #33
I hope it is a good solution for you.
P-J
Thanks a lot for the wire diagram. Can anyone tell me if the picture of the GFCI receptacle I posted appears to be 15A. The 20A GFCI receptacles and plugs that I have seen have a different plug orientation, ie on prong is perpendicular to the other.
abarnett
Well-Known Member
I would agree that those are probably not 20a outlets. And if they're not 20a, your wiring probably only supports 15a, so it won't help to switch just the outlets.
The receptacles are connected to 20A breakers so I'm confused. I'll probably take one of the receptacles out and verify if the wiring is 12 gauge or 14 gauge. I may step down to 1500W heating elements to be safe. Anyone know if 2 120V 1500W elements can boil 7.5 gallons?
The circuit breaker is 20A - therefore the wire will be 12 gauge. I do not believe you will be at any risk using the system with those GFCI outlets. The only problem I could see is if your refrigerator or another appliance is on the same circuit. That's something easy to check out though.
Just my humble opinion.
P-J
Edit: Here is a 20A outlet layout:
The same plug works with it.
Just my humble opinion.
P-J
Edit: Here is a 20A outlet layout:
The same plug works with it.
I looks like a great solution. They only thing I don't need in the diagram is the pump. I'm pretty confident I can figure out how to modify the wiring to take this out. How are the resistors wired into the system?
I assume these resisters would work?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=003-1K
And these fuses?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=070-612
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=071-818
Yes, 3000w will boil 7.5 gal IME...of course not as fast as 5500w, but reasonable.
The circuit breaker is 20A - therefore the wire will be 12 gauge. I do not believe you will be at any risk using the system with those GFCI outlets. The only problem I could see is if your refrigerator or another appliance is on the same circuit. That's something easy to check out though.
Just my humble opinion.
P-J
Edit: Here is a 20A outlet layout:
The same plug works with it.
I have confirmed that these two GFCI receptacles are on their own 20A circuit. The reason I brought this up is that I can't find any 20A rated plugs that will work with the GCI receptacles that I have.
You are A-Ok with the resistors and fuses/fuse holders.
Re: The pump outlet. You might want to set it up that way anyway... But it's super easy to 'not' include it.
BTW: I just added an image of a 20A 120V outlet to my last post (for reference)
P-J
Please don't worry about that. We are talking about 1.5 amps over the 15A's.
Try it, you will be just fine.
Found this interesting bit of information so I feel more comfortable.
"Part of the UL listing for the 15 amp receptacles is that they are capable of feeding through the 20 amp circuit, the primary difference between 15 and 20 amp receptacles being the faceplate configuration. "
Any tips on how to make the wiring diagram you provided easily upgradeable to 240V? I already plan to have all the internal wiring be 10/3 SJEOOW 30W. I am looking to make sure the wiring devices that I use will also work with 240V.
Also, what is the purpose of the flash buzzer and the alarm disable? Will all this fit into the 1/16 DIN Controller Project box (Pbox16)?
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