late extract questions

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MisterClean

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Doing my 3rd brew this coming weekend, and plan on doing a late extract this time around, but had a few questions.

I'll be brewing AHS Bavarian hefe kit, which has 6# DME. I was thinking I'll add the lme at 60, and the DME at flame out. Any foreseeable problems with this?

I have read that doing late extract can increase the bitterness of the beer. Is this accurate? How can I adjust the kit to account for the extra bitterness? Or should I just follow the hop schedule in the kit?

And lastly, It will be my first time using an immersion worth chiller. How can I keep lme and DME from gunking up the chiller lines and making a sticky mess? It seems to dissolve pretty quickly when I do normal addition, so I'm not even really sure this will be a problem. I suppose I can pour more slowly than usual and only in the center, giving me a bit of room to stir.
 
The idea behind the late extract addition is to improve color and minimize the maillard reaction which some will claim creates a "twang" in the taste or additional carmelization of the malts.

Ideally you use 25-50% of the extract at the beginning and the balance at the end. In a full boil setting you will achieve better hop utilization but IMO, there is no need to adjust the hop schedule.
 
How big of a boil are u planning. The late extract additions deal wiht keeping the color lighter. Longer boils, especially in partial boils, say 2-3 gallons will lead to darker colored beer. Ive read on here of people pitching all their extract within the last 15-20 minutes just to sterilize it and they didn't say anything about affecting the taste.
 
If you were doing a partial boil it would probably balance out (hop wise.) In the full boil the hop utilization will be higher. I use beer Smith to figure it for my wort.
 
Looking at Beersmith (which is a super useful program, need to buy a key), it looks like if I do 3# at the start and 3# after flame-out, I'll be alright. Estimated IBU will be 12.8, which is just fine for the style, and it really helps the estimated color as well.

I figure to keep the cooler clean, my plan is to boil the cooler the last 15, then pull it with some tongs and just hold it out above the wort while I stir in the DME. The few seconds it'll be exposed to the air probably won't hurt anything.
 
Yeah,I use the DME in the boil,since it doesn't darken as quickly as LME. I do partial boils of 3.5 gallons in a 5 gallon BK/MT,even with PM BIAB. Just use 3lbs of the DME in your boil for hop additions,adding all remaining extracts at flame out. And partial boils,even for a full hour,will not darken the beer any more than a full boil would. The late extract additions take care of that whether full boil or partial.
 
I use DME and always add half at the beginning of the boil and the other half at 15 minutes. My color is usually spot on.

Can't speak for LME.
 
Ive become a fan of partial mash, late addition, brewing over the past year. Ive not noticed any adverse effect on flavor.
 
Well after these next two extract kits are finished I'm going to take the leap to all grain. I just wanted to try a few techniques I've been reading about to improve my extract brewing while I'm doing it.

On the hefe I'll try adding all the dme at the beginning, and on my milk stout I'm going to add 3# Munich DME at the beginning and 5# dark DME at the end, and see how it turns out
 
I see no advantage to boiling DME for 10 minutes to sterilize; it's not necessary. I add 10-15% after the first hop addition and the balance at flame out. Never experienced any problems and the color/flavor remain fresh.
 
That's because pasteurization happens at 162F,NOT at 212F. Too many think extract has to be seriously thoroughly boiled to hell & back to sanitize it. not true at all. Since pasteurization happens at 162F,flame out additions are fine because the wort is still boiling hot. These late additions are done quickly,so the wort is still more than hot enough to pasteurize,which takes mere seconds. I give it a few minutes myself,then into ice bath.
 
I follow uniondr's technique, 7 batches later and I think this method works absolutely great, simple process that produces great beer.
 
I was doing small boil and late addition (extract) way back in 1994 (years before it was "officially" designated to be "discovered" by a well known brewer)

I was doing so because I had small pots at the time.

To answer your question, since you are doing a full boil then just add it all in.

What I "discovered" (not really) about small boils was really based upon hop utilization. I was worried more about the balance of the brew. Achieving a better color (not too dark) was a bonus.

Way back then I read Papazian's The Complete Joy of Homebrewing (1st ed) nearly every day. I have the 3rd Ed now so I will refer to it.

My "AHA!" moment was when I read the Hop Utilization Chart on page 258. The second block (going downward) reads: "LBS OF MALT EXTRACT PER GALLONS OF BOILING WATER". Then reading across it identifies the 1 lb through 5 lbs.

I thought, since I only boil 2 gallons why not add only 2 lbs of malt and add the rest at the end? This maxes out (or is close enough) the hop utilization at 60 mins.

Anyway, it always worked for me.

I do all grain full boils now and don't do all extract anymore, but it's difficult to lose knowledge...unless you're Gary Busey. :mug:
 
I figure to keep the cooler clean, my plan is to boil the cooler the last 15, then pull it with some tongs and just hold it out above the wort while I stir in the DME. The few seconds it'll be exposed to the air probably won't hurt anything.

I wouldn't bother removing the chiller, the extract will dissolve in the hot wort in a few minutes regardless. This sounds difficult IMHO.
 
When I was doing extract,I used 1.5-2lbs of plain DME in the 2.5-3 gallon boil. Remainder at flame out with all the LME/Cooper's can. I do PB/PM BIAB now,& add the 3.3lbs of LME or 3lbs of DME at flame out. Either way gives better flavor & lighter color.
 
Yup, but to be honest...i dont remember why.

The reason to add LME last is because it's so heavy. LME will drop straight to the bottom no matter how well you're stirring, and if there's heat under it (which there will be during the boil) that instantly caramelizes a portion of the extract, which will increase nonfermentables in the wort and contribute a caramel taste.

Add your LME at the end, after flameout. Best of both worlds.
 
Maybe it's just me, but I always do the DME first, 60 minute addition, and then add the LME in the last ten minutes, turn down the heat and stir well of course.

Ditto

Leave the immersion chiller in the wort while stirring in the LME.

Have a spare 5-gal bucket handy and fill it with the hot water from the chiller. PBW and all your tools goes in there for post-boil cleaning.
You can fill a second 5-gal pail for rinse water. All good!;)

I start with a 5-gal full boil and add maybe a quart or 1/2-gal to top off the fermenter.

'da Kid
 
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