Lil' Sparky
Cowboys EAC
Those are the orifice (jet) for the burners that are pipe threaded. That's what I use to mount my burners. I have no idea what Lonnie or the other Brutus guys use for an orifice.
Brutus Ten ????
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RiverSwillBeer
Well-Known Member
wonder what would happen if you take post 479's link and change the "3" to a "1" ?? 
Lil' Sparky
Cowboys EAC
Haaalllllooooo!!!
I see someone's already given her the beads.
I see someone's already given her the beads.
Nice find there. I forgot that was there. That was taken a couple seasons back at the ski area on closing day. That was the top lift attendant and she was giving us all a show you might say...
How in he... did you find that? Glad you did.
Let's all calm down now. She's not that hot and she smelled of dirty hippy BO. Here's how I know:
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l286/SooperCooper2/photo.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l286/SooperCooper2/photo.jpg
Sawdustguy
Well-Known Member
I was gonna say, she didn't look that hot. There are a couple of ladies I know who I wish had her attitude though.
BeerElf
Member
Where did you buy those thermowells?
I was gonna say, she didn't look that hot. There are a couple of ladies I know who I wish had her attitude though.
No doubt, a good attitude goes a long way!
OK time to revive this thread again with a question. There's a thread in this same section going on about the 10 tip jet burners from topfoodservice/shopperschoice/tejasBBQ. Now in the BYO plans, Lonnie specs a burner that MoreBeer no longer sells. So in my haste, I bought the first thing I found which was the 10 tip jet burner from shopperschoice. However, I didn't realize at the time that there was a difference between high pressure and low pressure setups and also bought the 0.4 psi regulator from MoreBeer. I'm just about finished with my gas plumbing but have yet to wire up the ASCO valves. I tested the shopperschoice burners this weekend, plumbing in a 60 psi pressure gauge as well to see what was going on and to check for leaks. The 0.4 psi MoreBeer regulator doesn't cut it with the high pressure burners as it produces a pilot like flame at best. However, I happen to have a 0 - 30 psi regulator from my Banjo that worked great. So that is resolved for now. My question is will the ASCO valves play well with up to 30 psi propane?
What is the model number of the Asco Valve?
The same one Lonnie specs. I believe it is 8210G37. It's the stainless fitting one. I'm thinking it should work...
Do a Google search for Asco Red Hat. It will bring up the Asco site. From there is a chart of their valves with specs. I'm sure that the valve you have is good to that pressure, but I'd check the chart.
I tried to get onto the Asco site to find out for you, but I'm having some network issues right now and things aren't working well. Or maybe their site was down. At any rate I need to do some work on my LAN, so I'll be down for a while.
I tried to get onto the Asco site to find out for you, but I'm having some network issues right now and things aren't working well. Or maybe their site was down. At any rate I need to do some work on my LAN, so I'll be down for a while.
Looks like a 5 psi min and 150 psi max. I'm surprised it works for Lonnie at 11WC or 0.4 psi...
brewon
Member
I made the same mistake, if you want to call it that. My burners are the low pressure variety and I bought that same Asco valve with a minimum 5psi. Ended up buying a different valve with no minimum, but a max of 15psi. Works much better. Needed to understand the different pressures in use for propane BEFORE I started buying things.
Bill
Bill
Thanks for the input fellas. I'm all set now with the correct regulator, burners and valves. Just got to finish it up.
HOLY CRAP!!! I posted that 3-27-08, and I JUST now finished .. By the time i get my quick disconnects in from McMaster Carr and cut my hoses so I can brew it will be 21 Months... I was able to put on average about $75 bucks a month into building it.
None Zero Nada Zip.
you can bolt metal together or get a pre fab type rack system.
Pretty much every thing he welds can be worked around another way. He just had a welder so he defaulted to that.
You could fab up some really slick forms for a very pretty concrete system platform including a sink.
To the man with a hammer every problem looks like a nail.
True dat. I did not weld one fracking tack on mine. In fact, I do not own a welder of any sort. I do know one of the best welders in the world (I'm not kidding, he's VERY accomplished) but he was busy and I had a bunch of t-slot. He said he would help me do a stainless frame in the summer when he's less busy but I couldn't wait. Now I'm not even sure I would bother moving over to stainless. I'm pretty happy with my setup and it's making good beer as evidenced by a recent local contest 1st place...
Eigenbrau
Well-Known Member
Guys, I know I'm coming in a bit late on this, but some of you guys are spending a small fortune getting fabricators/welders to weld up your frames. I'm seeing prices of $800-1200. Has anyone considered learning to weld? You can a good Lincoln welder for about $400 (I paid $450 for welder, mask, gloves, brush, etc.). If anyone is interested, I'm still just an amateur, but I'm willing to give advice on how to start and send some pictures of my rig if you'd like to see. You can buy the steel for $60-70, and with the cost of the welder, you're looking at about $5-600. Money saved that can easily go toward other equipment.
jstaylor1968
Well-Known Member
I just started designing my Brutus style system.
I'm hoping these burners will work ok with the piping.
Anyone use them before?
http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_burner.html
I'm hoping these burners will work ok with the piping.
Anyone use them before?
http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_burner.html
That burner is the stainless steel version of the Bayou Classic SQ-14 which is very popular with home brewers. I have one and it works great. Now then, the actual burner is cast iron. Only the stand frame is stainless. Sounds like you will only need the burner and not the stand if you are planning to build a Brutus rig. If that's the case, you can buy the burner casting and the regulator for much less than $85 plus shipping.
Check out Agri Supply: http://www.agrisupply.com/burner-cast-low-presure-multi-hole-/p/40282/cn/5400001/
That's the low pressure version of the same burner that is used on the SQ-14. You can use these with either high or low pressure, but you must use the proper orifice and respective regulator. I would set it up with a high pressure orifice and a 0-10 psi adjustable pressure regulator.
Here's another source for the non-stainless version of the SQ-14 at a very reasonable price: http://www.webstaurantstore.com/bay...burner-outdoor-patio-stove-range/554SQ14.html
Eigenbrau
Well-Known Member
Contact Lonnie Mac, he's good people and should be more than happy to set you up.
Lonnie Mac is a great guy and always willing to help. But, you could also get on BYO's web site and backorder a copy of the issue that featured the Brutus 10. That's what I did. Has everything you need to get you started. It was the November, 2007 edition (Vol.13, No.7). ***********
Lonnie Mac
Well-Known Member
Shoot me a PM my friend...http://***********/store?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=102&category_id=21
K913
New Member
Hello.
I am in the beginning stages of planning for this build. I will be learning to weld and plan on building the entire thing myself. I have enjoyed reading all of your posts and seeing all of your pics. I have received the back order of BYO but there seems to be some details missing. I have several questions and have no doubt I will get plenty of answers and advice. So please forgive me if some of my questions are very basic!
Tim
I am in the beginning stages of planning for this build. I will be learning to weld and plan on building the entire thing myself. I have enjoyed reading all of your posts and seeing all of your pics. I have received the back order of BYO but there seems to be some details missing. I have several questions and have no doubt I will get plenty of answers and advice. So please forgive me if some of my questions are very basic!
Tim
I know this is an old thread but I am hooked. I just picked up some 14g 1.5" mild steel to make my own system. It will be a bastardized version of Lonnie's/jlandin's systems as I need the keggles to fit in the stand. Can't wait to start my build. Thanks for all the info/pics on this site. You guys deserve a 
or three.
or three.
not sure if anyone is still keeping up with this thread but i'm about to start a build and am waiting on the back issue of byo to get here...what supplies will i need for the gas( valves, regulators,ignitors)I have a friend at the gas company that will be furnishing these items and i need to get him a list asap! Also, my gas lines will be exterior lines and probably braided stainless...what psi should they be? I sent lonnie mac a pm trying to get a copy of his notes but haven't gotten a repy..Does anyone have them on a pdf? Thanks in advance for any Help
not sure if anyone is still keeping up with this thread but i'm about to start a build and am waiting on the back issue of byo to get here...what supplies will i need for the gas( valves, regulators,ignitors)I have a friend at the gas company that will be furnishing these items and i need to get him a list asap! Also, my gas lines will be exterior lines and probably braided stainless...what psi should they be? I sent lonnie mac a pm trying to get a copy of his notes but haven't gotten a repy..Does anyone have them on a pdf? Thanks in advance for any Help
Did Lonnie ever get back to you. I too just ordered the BYO mag and was wondering what lonnie also has available.
Haven't heard anything from him. Hope to start my build soon, been getting my hop garden going lately and brewing a lot. I'm not going to go stainless...gonna paint mine with black high temp paint
@2BeerSpeer How are the plans from BYO? I also just found out BYO sells separate plans of the build. Waiting to hear back from them as to if there is any difference in the plans for sale and the ones in the magazine issue. @Lonnie mac please clear your inbox.
The plans are good, very detailed......if I could weld I would be able to do it all just by reading the plans!
Lonnie Mac designed a very good brewing system and his design has helped many of us out either directly or indirectly. To this we owe him a heartfelt thanks.
Having said that, one thing about the design has bothered me since the very first day I saw it.
I understand that the design is now several years old and interest has somewhat waned, but people still use it as a reference design and thus I feel the need to comment.
Lonnie used ASCO valves and a standing pilot to automate the burner operation.
The problem with using the ASCO valves is that they do not sense whether the pilot is present or not when they open. This has the potential to cause a gas explosion. Should the pilot not be present and the PID controller opens the ASCO valve, raw propane gas will free flow from the burner. At some point that gas may build up and explode.
A different approach to this problem would be to use a gas control valve from a furnace, specifically something like a Honeywell universal gas valve.
VR8200A2132
- controlled by 24VAC
- takes a common thermocouple
- has an outlet for the pilot light
- 1/2" x 1/2" inlet/ outlet.
- 130,000 BTU
$69 with a 24 inch thermocouple
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00069CR8S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Honeywell product web page. The installation guide is at the bottom.
Product
Applicable related documents
Search
With the 8500 series universal gas valves, you have to manually light the pilot.
One step up from that is the 9500 series which has an electronic ignition system to light the pilots.
Honeywell has a kit to make these valves work with propane as well as natural gas.
Using a gas valve is a bit more complicated because you now have to mount a thermocouple to sense if the pilot is burning, but its really no more difficult than that.
And it is a lot safer. As soon as the pilot light goes out, for whatever reason (think boil over), the gas valve shuts off.
I hope this helps.
Having said that, one thing about the design has bothered me since the very first day I saw it.
I understand that the design is now several years old and interest has somewhat waned, but people still use it as a reference design and thus I feel the need to comment.
Lonnie used ASCO valves and a standing pilot to automate the burner operation.
The problem with using the ASCO valves is that they do not sense whether the pilot is present or not when they open. This has the potential to cause a gas explosion. Should the pilot not be present and the PID controller opens the ASCO valve, raw propane gas will free flow from the burner. At some point that gas may build up and explode.
A different approach to this problem would be to use a gas control valve from a furnace, specifically something like a Honeywell universal gas valve.
VR8200A2132
- controlled by 24VAC
- takes a common thermocouple
- has an outlet for the pilot light
- 1/2" x 1/2" inlet/ outlet.
- 130,000 BTU
$69 with a 24 inch thermocouple
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00069CR8S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Honeywell product web page. The installation guide is at the bottom.
Product
Applicable related documents
Search
With the 8500 series universal gas valves, you have to manually light the pilot.
One step up from that is the 9500 series which has an electronic ignition system to light the pilots.
Honeywell has a kit to make these valves work with propane as well as natural gas.
Using a gas valve is a bit more complicated because you now have to mount a thermocouple to sense if the pilot is burning, but its really no more difficult than that.
And it is a lot safer. As soon as the pilot light goes out, for whatever reason (think boil over), the gas valve shuts off.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by a moderator:
Good thoughts brewman. Here is a very good link that anyone considering an electronic ignition system should look at,
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/gas-temperature-control-dummies-116632/
Very helpful.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/gas-temperature-control-dummies-116632/
Very helpful.
BrownBagBrew
New Member
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/for/2830032859.html
I am selling my BRUTUS style brew system. This system is designed following the theories originally published by Lonnie Mac. The system is 1 year old and makes great beer.
Temperatures in the Hot Liquor Tank and Mash Tun are digitally monitored and maintained via automated burner control for accuracy and ease of repeatable brewing. The all stainless steel stand was fabricated by a professional D18.1/D9.1 certified welder here in the bay area. The system is fully plumbed via (2) March pumps with center port inlets for better flow. Wort is cooled via a plate chiller mounted on a hinged mount for drainage. . To protect the electrical components from heat and liquid exposure all wiring is fully enclosed inside welded square tubing next to the propane manifold. All switches on control panel are capped with rubber waterproof covers. All electrical operations are controlled from a single location.
Too many details to list here- truly must see to appreciate.
I am selling this unit as a package deal with a full sized single door digitally temperature controlled refrigerator for fermentation and all the accessories needed to operate the system; propane tanks and spare parts.
I spared no expense when building this home brewery because I never intended to sell. Circumstances have changed and I am unable to continue this hobby.
List of components:
-Custom designed/fabricated all stainless steel rolling brewery.
-2 March pumps flush mounted in stainless vented pump box.
-Brew Kettle and Mash Tun have 10 inch banjo burners digitally controlled.
-1 8-tip jet burners (80,000 btu) on HLT.
-3 pilot lights with needle valves.
-3 STC electronic solenoid gas valves (3 spare ASCO valves included).
-2 digital LOVE controls mounted in fully enclosed control box.
-Low pressure adjustable propane regulator with pressure gauges.
-Silicone High Temp liquid lines with custom.
-4 hoses with all SS quick disconnect fitting from More Beer.
-3 analog thermometers mounted in all three vessels.
-False bottoms in both the Brew Kettle and Mash Tun.
15 gallon Mash Tun keggle with False Bottom and "whirly-gig" sparge arm.
15 gallon Hot Liquor Tank keggle.
-Custom control panel box with custom made terminal board.
-Custom liquid measuring stick made from square tubing.
-Fire extinguisher mounted.
-Stainless steel bottle opener mounted on unit.
-Complete pentair water filtration system built in.
I am selling my BRUTUS style brew system. This system is designed following the theories originally published by Lonnie Mac. The system is 1 year old and makes great beer.
Temperatures in the Hot Liquor Tank and Mash Tun are digitally monitored and maintained via automated burner control for accuracy and ease of repeatable brewing. The all stainless steel stand was fabricated by a professional D18.1/D9.1 certified welder here in the bay area. The system is fully plumbed via (2) March pumps with center port inlets for better flow. Wort is cooled via a plate chiller mounted on a hinged mount for drainage. . To protect the electrical components from heat and liquid exposure all wiring is fully enclosed inside welded square tubing next to the propane manifold. All switches on control panel are capped with rubber waterproof covers. All electrical operations are controlled from a single location.
Too many details to list here- truly must see to appreciate.
I am selling this unit as a package deal with a full sized single door digitally temperature controlled refrigerator for fermentation and all the accessories needed to operate the system; propane tanks and spare parts.
I spared no expense when building this home brewery because I never intended to sell. Circumstances have changed and I am unable to continue this hobby.
List of components:
-Custom designed/fabricated all stainless steel rolling brewery.
-2 March pumps flush mounted in stainless vented pump box.
-Brew Kettle and Mash Tun have 10 inch banjo burners digitally controlled.
-1 8-tip jet burners (80,000 btu) on HLT.
-3 pilot lights with needle valves.
-3 STC electronic solenoid gas valves (3 spare ASCO valves included).
-2 digital LOVE controls mounted in fully enclosed control box.
-Low pressure adjustable propane regulator with pressure gauges.
-Silicone High Temp liquid lines with custom.
-4 hoses with all SS quick disconnect fitting from More Beer.
-3 analog thermometers mounted in all three vessels.
-False bottoms in both the Brew Kettle and Mash Tun.
15 gallon Mash Tun keggle with False Bottom and "whirly-gig" sparge arm.
15 gallon Hot Liquor Tank keggle.
-Custom control panel box with custom made terminal board.
-Custom liquid measuring stick made from square tubing.
-Fire extinguisher mounted.
-Stainless steel bottle opener mounted on unit.
-Complete pentair water filtration system built in.
dallasdb
Well-Known Member
Subscribed for reference
hi guys!
I have a herms system but I am thinking of building brutus 10 (using 50l or even 100l kegs), I can do almost everything myself. My only doubt is that I may scorch the wort/ mash or cristalize it if I place the false bottom too close to the keg's bottom. Any tip how high should I place it?
Instead of recirculating the wort has anyone tried to use an electric stirrer ?
cheers,
Szymon.
I have a herms system but I am thinking of building brutus 10 (using 50l or even 100l kegs), I can do almost everything myself. My only doubt is that I may scorch the wort/ mash or cristalize it if I place the false bottom too close to the keg's bottom. Any tip how high should I place it?
Instead of recirculating the wort has anyone tried to use an electric stirrer ?
cheers,
Szymon.
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