Homemade Mash Paddle Pics

I think that using beeswax would be an awesome finish for hardwood, however since it doesn't penetrate the wood that well and makes a sort of coat on the wood, I wouldn't think it would be good for a paddle.

I feel like putting it in hot wort would slowly melt the wax off into it. Obviously no one wants beeswax in their wort haha so IMO, I wouldn't stay away from it.

If your heart is set on beeswax, I've heard of many people finishing hardwood with a mineral oil, beeswax mixture. But again, the wax is almost certain to get in the hot wort. That is my thinking atleast.

As I suspected on the beeswax. I just feel like I need to use something to protect the wood...or at least keep it from checking after a few brews. It sounds like mineral oil is the way to go. I have some rough sawn white oak curing in the barn. Been there for about 4-5 months. I am anxious to get started despite knowing that I should wait a year for the 1 inch thick planks to properly cure.

I would say mineral oil is your best bet...

As with anything in homebrewing, it's best to wait it out and not rush things.

If you are that anxious, go to Home Depot or wherever and get a single plank and make one out of that. I got my 1x6 piece of red oak from Home Depot for $10. Not to shabby I thought.

Made this just yesterday. I crafted it from a 1"x6"x4' piece of cherry wood. I used a jig saw as well as a power drill to start the inner cuts. Smoothed it out using a rotary sander and finished with a light coating of food-grade mineral oil.

Brewdoc that is a nice looking paddle. I like the way the mineral oil pulled out the grains. Very nice. I just used mine for the first time the other day and man am I glad I made one! It made stirring the mash much easier and more enjoyable!

Thanks! I'm very pleased with it as well. My Dad and I are going to break it in with a batch of American Strong Ale on Monday. Can't wait to see how this thing handles 20 lbs. of grain!

I am about to make a paddle from a 1 x 6 x 4 of Red Oak. Can anyone recommend how to determine dimensions? Should I leave it at 4' long? How long should the blade be? How thick should I leave the handle?

If it helps for answering, my mash tun is a round, 10 gallon igloo cooler like many people use.

BrewDoc22....I'm lookin' at you since you are the most recent poster, and started with a board the same size.

Also, where can I find mineral oil?

KingKlong said:

I am about to make a paddle from a 1 x 6 x 4 of Red Oak. Can anyone recommend how to determine dimensions? Should I leave it at 4' long? How long should the blade be? How thick should I leave the handle?

If it helps for answering, my mash tun is a round, 10 gallon igloo cooler like many people use.

BrewDoc22....I'm lookin' at you since you are the most recent poster, and started with a board the same size.

Also, where can I find mineral oil?

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Ask and you shall receive!

Here are the dimensions I used for my mash paddle. You will notice that the width of the board doesn't quite add up to 6". I think most boards cut to the 1"x6"x4' dimensions actually measure about 5 1/2" wide and 3/4" thick.

I didn't include the inner pattern simply because it was more of a free-form design with the help of a straight edge. I'd suggest making the outer borders at least 1.25" thick though, just to make sure it is sturdy enough.

I bought the mineral oil at my local supermarket. It was right next to the wood cutting boards. Just make sure it is 100% mineral oil and that it's the stuff used for protecting cutting boards, wood bowls, etc. I would also suggest letting it dry for at least a few days before using it.

That has to be one of the best, if not the best, replies I've ever gotten when I asked a question. Thanks for the drawing man. I can draw it up in CAD at work now, and print a template full size, or just go to work with my tape and rule.

It's not the fanciest, but I put this together in a few hours this afternoon. Lowe's didn't have maple so it's 4x red oak sealed with mineral oil.

It's cherry,maple, and walnut. Going to finish it with mineral oil tonight.

CoalCracker said:

It's cherry,maple, and walnut. Going to finish it with mineral oil tonight.

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That's a great idea cracker! I'm stealing that for my next paddle.

CoalCracker said:

It's cherry,maple, and walnut. Going to finish it with mineral oil tonight.

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good lookin' paddle!

what kind of glue did you use? any concerns about how it will hold up in a hot wet environment?

personally i would have made the holes in the blade a bit bigger to promote the breaking up of clumps, but that's just me

It's titebond 2. FDA compliant. Nah, not worried at all. It's really strong glue. I've seen boards break before the glue joint.

The holes should be fine. They are about 3/8 wide. If I have trouble, I'll do something to fix it but it should be ok.

I can't wait to get some oil on it, the grain is really going to pop and darken.

CoalCracker said:

It's titebond 2. FDA compliant. Nah, not worried at all. It's really strong glue. I've seen boards break before the glue joint.

The holes should be fine. They are about 3/8 wide. If I have trouble, I'll do something to fix it but it should be ok.

I can't wait to get some oil on it, the grain is really going to pop and darken.

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Wouldn't you be better off with TBIII? I thought II is not water proof, just resistant?

Edit: Found it. TBII is Type II resistant. TBIII is Type I resistant. Both sound pretty good to me. Good to know.

Type I water resistance
Any glue that passes ANSI Type I water resistance specification. This test is more rigorous than the Type II test. It involves specimens being immersed in boiling water for four hours, then dried in an oven at 150ºF, then boiled again for four hours, and cooled in water just prior to testing. Specimens must meet wood failure requirements to pass this test.

Type II water resistance
Any glue that passes the ANSI Type II water-resistance specification. This is a rigorous test that involves specimens being soaked in water for four hours, then dried in an oven at 120ºF. If no delamination is seen after three cycles, the glue passes.

Always happy to help a fellow brewer, KingKlong. Cheers!

Sweet paddle, Xakk!

Thanks! It's amazing what you can accomplish with a jig-saw, a couple of hole saws and a router.

Eh, it wasn't home made but it only cost a couple of quid and it saves elbow grease.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power Tools/Mixers/Chrome Mixing Paddle/d40/sd2761/p43960

I made this a little while ago - my other passion is scuba diving. Made it from a maple blank bought from HD.

CoalCracker
Really Nice work....but I would hesitate to put oil on it, an mash temps oil finishs can leach into the beer, and aside from other things, have adverse effects on your beers head.......Leave it Naked and get good head


Also I have to warn on the use of walnut......while is common to see spoons and bowls made from walnut, it is also a very common to see people wickedly allergic to the oils that will leach out of walnut into your beer. I work in wood, and know alot of people that can't even breathe in the dust. I always have to wear a mask even with shop filtration and dust collection.

Here you go. This is mine, made from a scrap fender stratocaster fretboard, mahogany handle




finished article

Wow these are fancy. I have just been using a pine 1x4 for years. Nothing fancy just a plain old 1x4. Now I am thinking I better get out some power tools and dress my paddle up a bit.

All u need to make a nice paddle is a coping saw, drill with some 1" bits and a combination file

You guys got me jealous. I'm gonna try to hit up HD tomorrow and make something sick.

patthebrewer said:

CoalCracker
Really Nice work....but I would hesitate to put oil on it, an mash temps oil finishs can leach into the beer, and aside from other things, have adverse effects on your beers head.......Leave it Naked and get good head


Also I have to warn on the use of walnut......while is common to see spoons and bowls made from walnut, it is also a very common to see people wickedly allergic to the oils that will leach out of walnut into your beer. I work in wood, and know alot of people that can't even breathe in the dust. I always have to wear a mask even with shop filtration and dust collection.

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I actually placed the oil on it before you posted... It's had a while to soak in and is completely dry to the touch. Maybe before I brew, i'll soak it in some warm water and see If I get any leaching.

I'm not too worried about the walnut. It will have very minimal contact in the brewing process. Just a quick stir to break up dough balls and I'm done. I have a feeling that it would take a bit more than a minute or two to really leech any wood oils into the beer.

Actually just did some reading.

Walnut wood and several other woods have small amounts of juglone, but much lower amounts than other plant parts, for example nuts, bark, and roots. The potential for toxicity should be minimal in cutting boards, which are dried. Juglone is not very soluble in water, so I would not expect it to come out of cutting boards and into food very easily. I would think that the concern for toxicity from this source would be minimal, but again, we have no direct research and I am not aware of any specifically on this topic. However, if you are cutting the wood and there is sawdust, then protection from the sawdust is in order.

CoalCracker said:

I actually placed the oil on it before you posted... It's had a while to soak in and is completely dry to the touch. Maybe before I brew, i'll soak it in some warm water and see If I get any leaching.

I'm not too worried about the walnut. It will have very minimal contact in the brewing process. Just a quick stir to break up dough balls and I'm done. I have a feeling that it would take a bit more than a minute or two to really leech any wood oils into the beer.

Actually just did some reading.

Walnut wood and several other woods have small amounts of juglone, but much lower amounts than other plant parts, for example nuts, bark, and roots. The potential for toxicity should be minimal in cutting boards, which are dried. Juglone is not very soluble in water, so I would not expect it to come out of cutting boards and into food very easily. I would think that the concern for toxicity from this source would be minimal, but again, we have no direct research and I am not aware of any specifically on this topic. However, if you are cutting the wood and there is sawdust, then protection from the sawdust is in order.

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Many of us have used mineral oil with no noticeable effect on head retention. I wouldn't worry about it.

It's cool, I was just pointing out some common problems associated with using oil, and walnut which may or may not affect you. Totally not raggin on your work brother....first rate. Awesome!!!

patthebrewer said:

It's cool, I was just pointing out some common problems associated with using oil, and walnut which may or may not affect you. Totally not raggin on your work brother....first rate. Awesome!!!

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Definitely didn't take it as that!! Just was throwing some info out there that I found for others to take note in. I appreciate the kind words!! I've been wood working since I'm about 8. My dad owns a custom furniture business so I've always been around it. It's nice having a 3000sq/ft workshop at my disposal!

CoalCracker said:

Definitely didn't take it as that!! Just was throwing some info out there that I found for others to take note in. I appreciate the kind words!! I've been wood working since I'm about 8. My dad owns a custom furniture business so I've always been around it. It's nice having a 3000sq/ft workshop at my disposal!

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See now I have shop envy!!! I own a fully stocked Pro shop but mine's not as big.....


I'm also third gen wood worker. I wonder if theres a correlation between wood working and brewing beer???

patthebrewer said:

See now I have shop envy!!! I own a fully stocked Pro shop but mine's not as big.....


I'm also third gen wood worker. I wonder if theres a correlation between wood working and brewing beer???

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There is something completely wrong with this statement...
(coming from a guy limping along with a jig-saw) haha...

Haha

patthebrewer said:

Haha

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Yeah... but I get crazy looks when I tell people I have an "All-electric Semi-Pro brewery in my garage"

mine. not such a bad job for someone who hasn't done woodworking since the mid 70s









I've filed & sanded out most of the scorch marks seen here

BrewDoc22 said:

Ask and you shall receive!

Here are the dimensions I used for my mash paddle. You will notice that the width of the board doesn't quite add up to 6". I think most boards cut to the 1"x6"x4' dimensions actually measure about 5 1/2" wide and 3/4" thick.

I didn't include the inner pattern simply because it was more of a free-form design with the help of a straight edge. I'd suggest making the outer borders at least 1.25" thick though, just to make sure it is sturdy enough.

I bought the mineral oil at my local supermarket. It was right next to the wood cutting boards. Just make sure it is 100% mineral oil and that it's the stuff used for protecting cutting boards, wood bowls, etc. I would also suggest letting it dry for at least a few days before using it.

Click to expand...

Thank you BrewDoc22 for posting your design and to the OP! Just finished making mine and I couldn't have done it without you. I used a 1X4X36" piece of Maple from HD. Still trying to decide to mineral oil it or not. Here is a couple pics:

Huaco said:

Yeah... but I get crazy looks when I tell people I have an "All-electric Semi-Pro brewery in my garage"

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Anyone ever tell you, you look like Zack Brown!

Simple, easy, and cheap. Red oak from Lowes, a jig saw, and some sand paper. Ding fries are done!!

patthebrewer said:

Anyone ever tell you, you look like Zack Brown!

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Haha...
All. The. Time...

Must be the :fro:

From a profile it is even closer resemblance...

Holy crap....you really do Thats alright brother, if ya gotta look like someone...I could think of a lot worse.

Picked up a piece of maple I got started on making my paddle but I had to go to work

Here's mine, screwed up the one five.