Beer won't carb, add more yeast?

I have a DIPA (10.5% ABV) that was in the primary for 4 weeks. It's been in the bottle now with 6 oz priming sugar for over 4 weeks at room temp and still no carbonation. There's slight pff when you open the bottle, but none in the liquid.

I think the yeast was just done for between the high alcohol and the long ferment. Anyone else see similar issues?

I'm trying to think of how to remedy the situation and I would like to try uncapping, adding some yeast and recapping. Has anyone done this with success?

Should I just add drops from a vial, or do a small starter first, whats' the best method with the highest likihood of success. This batch was expensive and difficult to brew so I would hate to waste it.

Thanks in advance.

what strain of yeast? I think the yeast can't handle the ABV, so you'll need to use a strain that can handle it to get decent carb in the bottle.

if the original yeast peter'd out before it fermented all the sugar in the beer, a higher tolerant yeast could over carb the beer. We'd need to konw the OG and FG and yeast strain to be certain.

malkore said:

what strain of yeast? I think the yeast can't handle the ABV, so you'll need to use a strain that can handle it to get decent carb in the bottle.

if the original yeast peter'd out before it fermented all the sugar in the beer, a higher tolerant yeast could over carb the beer. We'd need to konw the OG and FG and yeast strain to be certain.

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Also, what do you call "room temperature".

I found a big difference between 68 degrees (no carbing after three weeks) and 72 degrees (10-days to perfection).

It was Cal Ale WLP001. OG 1.093 FG 1.016 (10.26% ABV)

And room temperature is in a closet I would say it probably averages around 68-75

Thanks!

WLP001
Attenuation: 73-80%
Flocculation: Medium
Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 68-73°F
Alcohol Tolerance: High

your apparent attenuation is at 83%. I believe you've exceeded what this yeast can handle.

if you choose to pitch yeast into the bottles, I'd suggest Safbrew S-33. It'll get close to 13% abv and is pretty clean on the palette.

How much should I pitch though in order not to get bombs. Don't want nice double IPA exploding everywhere.

The speed and amount of fermentation should depend on the sugar available, not the amount of yeast. So I doubt you could over-re-pitch, but too little yeast might take a while to get going.

Seems like splitting one package of dry yeast evenly amongst all the bottles would do the job. Or figure out the additional SG provided to 5 gallons by your priming sugar and use the recommended amount of yeast for that gravity wort, divided amongst all bottles.

NOTE: I'm just making some semi-educated guesses here...

Another option is to enjoy it as it is, like a cask-conditioned IIPA. If it tastes good, it's never wasted!

Thanks for the advice, I actually did measure my gravity and the sugar added 2-3 points. So hopefully it'll work out.

And the beer does taste pretty good, it's just sort of unpleasant to drink because it's so thick and syrupy. So I definitely want some carbonation.

yep, trencher is right, the fermentables, not the yeast, determines carbonation and/or exploding bottles.
1.019 seems reasonable for a finished product...however if there was still sugar in it, the S-33 will ferment it, and your priming sugar...and it could be over carbed. I doubt it'll break the bottles though.

the bummer is having to open two cases, drop in a few grains of yeast per bottle, then recap.
Be sanitary!

Bummer indeed. Just proves to me that I NEED (not just want) to get into kegging.

kegging is indeed nice. i still bottle too though. best of both worlds if you ask me.

either way, you got to learn more about the processes and potential pitfalls.

malkore said:

kegging is indeed nice. i still bottle too though. best of both worlds if you ask me.

either way, you got to learn more about the processes and potential pitfalls.

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Yep! One of the things most appealing about HB, there is always that last piece of equipment that is needed.