BIAB Brewing (with pics)

Forrest-hunters said:

Worried I wont be able to get the grain all in the strainer if the water is lower?

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IMO a strainer basket is very optional...I have one yet have never used it FWIW.

I have 20 gallon pots, and they are big!!! Like 18 X 18 inches...while it will sure work for a five gallon batch...the huge size will make a bit of an inconvenience for only a fiver batch IMHO.

Fordzilla said:

Could someone reccomend a good thermometer with a probe?

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FWIW I like the simple digital stick thermometers, since you can move it around the mash and check several spots quickly...big box stores have them for like ten bucks and I have found them to be pretty accurate...get one as a spare if nothing else.

Fordzilla said:

Any reccomendations? I like the digital type with long probe so it can sit on top of the pot when its wrapped in a blanket mashing. I would possibly consider one like that as long as the probe isnt so long it inrerferes with the bag.

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Not really.there all pretty much the same. Im not sure if you can order the ones they use in the Blichmann pots but I love mine. It pivots in any direction, and other than the temp reading it shows where your mash temps should be for sweeter or dry finish and where your temps should be when cooling for lagers/ales.

I think mine has a 3" probe. People say they've had trouble with it interfering with the bag but hasn't caused me any problems!

I love BIAB, and have done it for my last 8 or so batches. I have had no issues with it, except hitting my mash temps. I am using a 11 gallon pot, and have been making 10 gallon batches. I typically strike about 7-8 gallons of water (to leave room for the grains), and shoot for about 10 degrees above my target temp.

So, shooting for 152, I'd heat the water to 162. When doing this, my temps would end in the 140's. I would then completely struggle to get the temp up, by blasting the kettle for 60-90 seconds on the burner. I have the steaming basket insert (which my bag is pinned to), so there are a few inches in the bottom of the kettle with no grains. It seems that area at the bottom will then get very hot while the top grain bed remains cold - and I have a hell of a time measuring what my *new* temp is (mixing like a mad man & constantly moving the thermometer around).

On Saturday, I tried to resolve this by shooting for a strike temp 15 degrees above target, and had the same issue. It is quite cold out, but I work pretty quickly to mash in (and then immediately wrap in blankets and shelter from the cold).

Should I be trying to target 20 degrees above my target? Should I be uncomfortable dropping grains in water that is over 170 degrees?

LateraLex said:

I love BIAB, and have done it for my last 8 or so batches. I have had no issues with it, except hitting my mash temps. I am using a 11 gallon pot, and have been making 10 gallon batches. I typically strike about 7-8 gallons of water (to leave room for the grains), and shoot for about 10 degrees above my target temp.

So, shooting for 152, I'd heat the water to 162. When doing this, my temps would end in the 140's. I would then completely struggle to get the temp up, by blasting the kettle for 60-90 seconds on the burner. I have the steaming basket insert (which my bag is pinned to), so there are a few inches in the bottom of the kettle with no grains. It seems that area at the bottom will then get very hot while the top grain bed remains cold - and I have a hell of a time measuring what my *new* temp is (mixing like a mad man & constantly moving the thermometer around).

On Saturday, I tried to resolve this by shooting for a strike temp 15 degrees above target, and had the same issue. It is quite cold out, but I work pretty quickly to mash in (and then immediately wrap in blankets and shelter from the cold).

Should I be trying to target 20 degrees above my target? Should I be uncomfortable dropping grains in water that is over 170 degrees?

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what temp are your grains? Also have you calibrated your thermometer?

LateraLex said:

I love BIAB, and have done it for my last 8 or so batches. I have had no issues with it, except hitting my mash temps. I am using a 11 gallon pot, and have been making 10 gallon batches. I typically strike about 7-8 gallons of water (to leave room for the grains), and shoot for about 10 degrees above my target temp.

So, shooting for 152, I'd heat the water to 162. When doing this, my temps would end in the 140's. I would then completely struggle to get the temp up, by blasting the kettle for 60-90 seconds on the burner. I have the steaming basket insert (which my bag is pinned to), so there are a few inches in the bottom of the kettle with no grains. It seems that area at the bottom will then get very hot while the top grain bed remains cold - and I have a hell of a time measuring what my *new* temp is (mixing like a mad man & constantly moving the thermometer around).

On Saturday, I tried to resolve this by shooting for a strike temp 15 degrees above target, and had the same issue. It is quite cold out, but I work pretty quickly to mash in (and then immediately wrap in blankets and shelter from the cold).

Should I be trying to target 20 degrees above my target? Should I be uncomfortable dropping grains in water that is over 170 degrees?

Click to expand...

Why all the guess work, use a strike water calculator, I use one of the thousands that are available and hit my target within a degree every time!

LateraLex said:

I love BIAB, and have done it for my last 8 or so batches. I have had no issues with it, except hitting my mash temps.

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I think you either need to BIAB in warmer weather, or use more insulation on your kettle. Can you mash inside and boil outside. Not sure the Aussies considered cold temp N. American brewing when they invented BIAB. I can maintain mash temps OK in my basement but likely wouldn't try it outside on a cold winter day FWIW,

ok I am thinking about about doing my first BIAB using a 5 gallon kettle. Now I am having 2nd thoughts about this, because I want to end up with a 5 gallon batch. At first I wanted to use 3.5 gallons of strike water and dunk sparge into 1.5 gallons of water in a 3 gallon stainless steel pot, then add water to the preboil to make up the difference. Now I am thinking about just doing to mini batch of 2.5 gallons each to get to my 5 gallon target volume. I think 2 4 gallon patches are more doable. I also know this is going to me a longer than usual brew day, but I just want to see how close I get with the effency. I will have the the LHBS double crack. So the question is which would be more efficent? I think two batch is better?

johns said:

then add water to the preboil to make up the difference............... So the question is which would be more efficent? I think two batch is better?

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Always more efficient to add sparge runnings to the kettle rather than water...adding water to the kettle that hasn't passed through the grains is an efficiency killer...ok in "theory".

Best solution IMHO is to use both pots! B/w the two you have 8 gallons which is enough for a 5 gallon batch....just divvy up the runnings and hops and boil in two pots...People do it all the time...search around...split boil think it's called.

wilserbrewer said:

Always more efficient to add sparge runnings to the kettle rather than water...adding water to the kettle that hasn't passed through the grains is an efficiency killer...ok in "theory".

Best solution IMHO is to use both pots! B/w the two you have 8 gallons which is enough for a 5 gallon batch....just divvy up the runnings and hops and boil in two pots...People do it all the time...search around...split boil think it's called.

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I'd split the grain and make 2 separate 2.5g batches in the bigger pot. Maybe change up the hop additions or use a different yeast or something like that to see what results you get.

Antler said:

I'd split the grain and make 2 separate 2.5g batches in the bigger pot. Maybe change up the hop additions or use a different yeast or something like that to see what results you get.

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Oh yea hops. I forgot about them. Well the recipie calls for a first wort hop, and then hop additions at 15,10,5, and 1 minutes. So maybe I could first wort hop the first batch and add the other hop additions in the second half of the batch. I think it will be alright.

I want to blend these two together for one 5 gallon batch. I really dont want to experment too much, since this it the first time makeing this recipie.

johns said:

Oh yea hops. I forgot about them. Well the recipie calls for a first wort hop, and then hop additions at 15,10,5, and 1 minutes. So maybe I could first wort hop the first batch and add the other hop additions in the second half of the batch. I think it will be alright.

I want to blend these two together for one 5 gallon batch. I really dont want to experment too much, since this it the first time makeing this recipie.

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Ok. Why not still do it in two separate brew days, like the pros do it. Brew your first 2.5g batch, cool, pitch yeast, etc. a day or two later brew the other 2.5g batch and transfer right into the fermenter with the first? If you don't plan to make a yeast starter this method will also be more forgiving on the yeast, they will have time to reproduce before you transfer the second batch in, greatly reducing the chance of off favours due to under pitching.

Very cool...might have to try this

I brew in my garage that is in the upper 20's in MN. My vessel is a keggle. I wrap it with some reflectix and a lid and you'd be surprised how well it holds temps. I do usually need to fire up once or twice in a 60 min mash, but needed to do that in the summer as well.

Antler, thats a great idea, kinda like a really huge starter. And I always rehydrate the yeast, because it adds to increased viability. Ya gotta give the best chance to the yeasties to survive. My next move will be to harvist yeast because I am finding I only use several types of yeast, so why not save them to pitch later. I think the idea is to get the yeast hungery before bubbling starts.

christpuncher123 said:

Why all the guess work, use a strike water calculator, I use one of the thousands that are available and hit my target within a degree every time!

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I feel like such an idiot right now. From a quick glance, it looks like I'm not using enough water. I am really hellbent on doing 10 gallon batches in my 11 gallon pot, so I have to make some compromises, but I need to try to maximize my space available. Next time...

First off a big thanks to all those who answer questions here and share their experience. I am a total home brew noob. I have yet to brew a drop of beer (but have drank my share of them . ). A good friend shared his version of the punkin ale (recipe from Reno_envy) and ever since I have been reading day and night about home brew and have decided to give BIAB a go. My plan is to do 2.5 gallon batches and I am looking at my turkey fryer options.

I live in Canada where our winters can get rather frosty. It is currently -4C/24f and 0c/32f in my garage and I am concerned about maintaining mash temps. (I will get refletix to insulate). So here is my question. Given my small batch size, will a larger pot with more airspace at the top drop temp faster then a full (smaller)pot? If so, a significant amount? My guess is that it will but hope someone with more experience can confirm. If correct I will like try to get a smaller pot

Thanks

ChrisL_ said:

First off a big thanks to all those who answer questions here and share their experience. I am a total home brew noob. I have yet to brew a drop of beer (but have drank my share of them . ). A good friend shared his version of the punkin ale (recipe from Reno_envy) and ever since I have been reading day and night about home brew and have decided to give BIAB a go. My plan is to do 2.5 gallon batches and I am looking at my turkey fryer options.

I live in Canada where our winters can get rather frosty. It is currently -4C/24f and 0c/32f in my garage and I am concerned about maintaining mash temps. (I will get refletix to insulate). So here is my question. Given my small batch size, will a larger pot with more airspace at the top drop temp faster then a full (smaller)pot? If so, a significant amount? My guess is that it will but hope someone with more experience can confirm. If correct I will like try to get a smaller pot



Thanks

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The rate of cooling and the rate of boil off will depend on the exposed surface area of the wort more than the headspace above the beer. Thus, if you can limit the area exposed it will be easier to keep the temp from dropping. However, if you overshoot the mash temp then be prepared to add some very cold water or some ice so having some headspace is a good thing.

Thanks for the reply Mike,

I have read about the circumference of the pot (and the relative amount of the exposed surface of the wort) affecting the boil off rate. I plan to do a test boil once I have my burner/pot. But when it comes to the mash, the lid will be on to seal the pot but I was thinking for example a half full pot would have a lower thermal mass versus a pot that is say 90% full. Given the thermal mass of the mash would be higher, I would think the portion of the pot that is only air would cool quicker, resulting in faster overall temperature drops. I am not sure if this is correct, or even if it is, that is significant enough?
I think I have done enough reading I am confident to start my first batch, with the exception of being worried about holding the mash temp in my rather chilly garage.

Chris

Well, I think I've finally dialed in my BIAB. My first few BIAB sessions, I did a mashout and then a sparge and I was hitting between 75-80% efficiency on each batch. I then thought, since I was doing a sparge that I could just skip the mash-out. Well, my last two batches I was only getting around 65% efficiency. So, over the weekend I decided to do a mash-out and a sparge once again. Well, I hit 85%!

So, I'm going to stick with keeping a mash-out as a part of my brewing session!

MMJfan what's your sparge methode (and temp ~170 ?)

mirogster said:

MMJfan what's your sparge methode (and temp ~170 ?)

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I only have a 7.5 gallon brew kettle, but I also have a 5 gallon kettle. So I mash in about 5.5 gallons of water in my 7.5 gallon kettle at whatever strike temp the recipe I'm using calls for. Once the mash is complete, I then heat the kettle to 170 for my mash-out.

While that is going on, I then heat about 2.5 gallons of water in my 5 gallon kettle to 170. After my mash-out is complete, I then transfer the bag from my 7.5 gal kettle to my 5 gal kettle and let it sparge for 20 minutes.

Then I combine the wort from both kettles and proceed to the boil.

MMJfan said:

I only have a 7.5 gallon brew kettle, but I also have a 5 gallon kettle. So I mash in about 5.5 gallons of water in my 7.5 gallon kettle at whatever strike temp the recipe I'm using calls for. Once the mash is complete, I then heat the kettle to 170 for my mash-out.

While that is going on, I then heat about 2.5 gallons of water in my 5 gallon kettle to 170. After my mash-out is complete, I then transfer the bag from my 7.5 gal kettle to my 5 gal kettle and let it sparge for 20 minutes.

Then I combine the wort from both kettles and proceed to the boil.

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I think if you hung your bag over the BK, and poured your sparge water over the grains you might get a little better!

I did my first BIAB this weekend - thanks to this thread and the wealth of information, it was a success! I double "milled" the grains using a blender - and got 73% efficiency, which I was pleased with. I hit the OG of the recipe, but was 1/4 gallon shy of total volume. I'm using a 7.5g kettle - to resolve this issue I will either dunk sparge or pour sparge (ladel method). Overall, very pleased!

The only real issue I had was temperature control. Prior to BIAB I had done 4 partial mash recipes with success. These were done indoors, in a 9qt pot and I was able to maintain temps easily. They did not drop 1F in 60 minutes.

For BIAB, I used an Aluminum turkey fryer in my garage. To maintain temps, I wrapped it in several layers of towels, with a towel and blanket on top and had two heaters blowing on it. Outdoor temps were about 50F, but probably 60F in the garage. I was surprised to see the temp drop 2F in about 15 minutes. I slowly heated it back up to 152F and saw it drop again 2F in another 20-25 minutes. There was very little head space.

I understand heat loss is an issue in cold weather with BIAB. Is the loss of 1-2 degrees a big deal (i.e. should I not worry about it)? I'm thinking of trying reflectix but will likely upgrade the pot first after I make sure BIAB will work for me.

Antler said:

I think if you hung your bag over the BK, and poured your sparge water over the grains you might get a little better!

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Maybe once the weather starts to warm up and I start brewing outside again I might give that a try. During the winter I brew inside and my method above works well and it's less of a mess which is always important to SWMBO...

Just wondering why that method of pouring the sparge water over the grains would be better than sparging the grains in the kettle for 20 minutes?

MMJfan said:

Maybe once the weather starts to warm up and I start brewing outside again I might give that a try. During the winter I brew inside and my method above works well and it's less of a mess which is always important to SWMBO...

Just wondering why that method of pouring the sparge water over the grains would be better than sparging the grains in the kettle for 20 minutes?

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I try to picture it as if your "cleaning" the sugars from the grain. That basically what your trying to do. I think you'll get it "cleaner" pouring the water through the grains, rather than dipping the grains into the water.

This is just a suggestion. I'm in no way saying either way is better or trying to correct your process. I've never done any type of sparge. If you want more info on it I'd ask some of the guys using 3 vessel systems. Most important thing is have fun and enjoy that beer!

ChrisL_ said:

I live in Canada where our winters can get rather frosty. It is currently -4C/24f and 0c/32f in my garage and I am concerned about maintaining mash temps. (I will get refletix to insulate). So here is my question. Given my small batch size, will a larger pot with more airspace at the top drop temp faster then a full (smaller)pot? If so, a significant amount? My guess is that it will but hope someone with more experience can confirm. If correct I will like try to get a smaller pot

Click to expand...

I can't answer your question about airspace because we usually push the limits of our 20 and 15 gallon kettles but I can tell you that my brew partner and I BIAB in his garage throughout winter here in Edmonton. When you BIAB, I think you usually give up some small amount of control over mash temperature regardless. Dropping a few degrees over the mash is not a big deal.

I assume that I will lose 2f so I aim 1f higher when heating my strike water knowing that I'll end up a 1f lower over the course of the mash. It's not exact what it averages out. For instance, if I'm mashing at 152f and I know I lose 6f when I dough in and stir, I'll aim for 159f. It'll move from 153f to 151f over the hour. If it's really cold, I might have to direct fire the kettle but I do that slowly and carefully while stirring to ensure an accurate temperature reading. Wrapping the kettle in a sleeping bag can be quite effective. Also, the garage will warm up from heating the strike water, even with the door partially open for ventilation.

ChrisL_ said:

My plan is to do 2.5 gallon batches and I am looking at my turkey fryer options... If correct I will like try to get a smaller pot

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Also... My advice is to buy the biggest pot you can afford and make the biggest batches it will permit. Airspace is just the absence of beer. I realized quickly that it takes no more effort to brew 5, 10 or 20 gallons than it does to brew 2.5 gallons.

MMJfan thanks for the answer!! Down Under they call it dunk sparge.
Btw. gals and guys, if you're not yet familliar with biabrewer.info- I really recommend you, to go there and register.
Recently, they've released BIABAcus - something simply stunning! Despite that's only excel spreadsheet, it's very user friendly and just amazing tool ! It's in metrics and it gives you all, what you need & want for brewing
Go & give it a try!

ChrisL_ said:

..... with the exception of being worried about holding the mash temp in my rather chilly garage.

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A small batch in a cold garage will be tricky to hold temperature, BUT, that is not saying it won't work. Conversion can happen very quickly! For small batch brewing, I would mash inside in a warm oven to hold temp., and boil in the garage, or for that matter do it all inside in frosty canada. Towels may not be the best insulation, perhaps zip an old winter parka around the kettle next time.

BIAB typically relies on the mass of grain to hold temp.

Another wild idea I just had would be to mash in your smaller kettle inside your larger kettle acting like a double boiler, this would reduce temp. swing and loss and allow you to gently heat the mash....but add difficulty

robcj said:

I can't answer your question about airspace because we usually push the limits of our 20 and 15 gallon kettles but I can tell you that my brew partner and I BIAB in his garage throughout winter here in Edmonton. When you BIAB, I think you usually give up some small amount of control over mash temperature regardless. Dropping a few degrees over the mash is not a big deal.

I assume that I will lose 2f so I aim 1f higher when heating my strike water knowing that I'll end up a 1f lower over the course of the mash. It's not exact what it averages out. For instance, if I'm mashing at 152f and I know I lose 6f when I dough in and stir, I'll aim for 159f. It'll move from 153f to 151f over the hour. If it's really cold, I might have to direct fire the kettle but I do that slowly and carefully while stirring to ensure an accurate temperature reading. Wrapping the kettle in a sleeping bag can be quite effective. Also, the garage will warm up from heating the strike water, even with the door partially open for ventilation.

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Thanks, it sounds like maybe the temp wont flucuate as much as I was thinking. I will use your method of starting a touch high and let it ride through the desired temp. I will also get an idea of how much my garage will warm up when I do a test boil once I go buy my pot/burner this week.

wilserbrewer said:

A small batch in a cold garage will be tricky to hold temperature, BUT, that is not saying it won't work. Conversion can happen very quickly! For small batch brewing, I would mash inside in a warm oven to hold temp., and boil in the garage, or for that matter do it all inside in frosty canada. Towels may not be the best insulation, perhaps zip an old winter parka around the kettle next time.

BIAB typically relies on the mass of grain to hold temp.

Another wild idea I just had would be to mash in your smaller kettle inside your larger kettle acting like a double boiler, this would reduce temp. swing and loss and allow you to gently heat the mash....but add difficulty

Click to expand...

The double boiler is interesting, but another level of work which I am hoping to avoid by choosing about BIAB. I will do the sleeping bag wrap and hope it turns out. I have heard of not crying over spilt milk, but what about ruined beer?

robcj said:

Also... My advice is to buy the biggest pot you can afford and make the biggest batches it will permit. Airspace is just the absence of beer. I realized quickly that it takes no more effort to brew 5, 10 or 20 gallons than it does to brew 2.5 gallons.

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I am not worried about the extra work of a larger batch. I just really don't drink quickly enough and am too old for big parties
The other thing is that I am actually looking forward to the actual brewing process, plus I want to try many different styles and recipes. Having said that, I am giong with a 36qt pot which should allow me to move to a 5gallon batch if desired. Maybe I just need to start drinking more

I did my second BIAB last night, the Saison kit from Northern Brewer. This time around I got 93% and overshot my OG by 16 points! 1.072 instead of 1.052. Had to add quite a bit of water. I found this hard to believe and measured twice.

The difference between this and my first batch was I mashed for 90 min instead of 60 and sparged with 1 gallon (in addition to a mash out and squeezing).

I def need to work on consistency.

slcdawg said:

This time around I got 93% and overshot my OG by 16 points! 1.072 instead of 1.052.

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Wow...I'm short for words...1.072 is a lot of points and 93%...wow.

Well my first ever batch is in the fermenter . A BIAB Punkin Ale (thanks Reno_Envy for the great recipe). It was a busy day as I scrambled around trying not to forget anything. But it worked out. I had about 75 efficiency and it is in the fermentor now. My one worry before starting was not a big deal. I wondered about holding my mash temp but I wrapped my pot in a couple of blankets and held it within 1 degree until the last 5 minutes or so.
Here are a few pics of my brew day.

Any idea what would contribute to a "grain" aftertaste??

I have brewed 4 BIAB batches now, and my last 2 (EdWorts Bavarian Hefe, and a Belgian Blonde). Both have a "grain" aftertaste. The beer tastes great, but its almost like a very prominent grain flavor in the finish that seems to last quite a long time. I dont get this in any of the commercial beers I have tried. Not sure what would make this. All my beers have finished under 1.020, around 1.014 or so, and I have been getting low 70% eff.. So, I dont really know what it would be.

Is it due to the Wheat used in the recipes? My Pale Ale using the same BIAB method doesnt have the flavor. Unless its just covered up by the hops in it.

Any idea what would cause this??

I like it. Is that a 10 gallon Blickman (on the original post)? What suggestions does anyone have in terms of basket and brew pot for 10 gallon batches. I'm thinking a 20 gallon pot, but don't know about the basket. Would that Bayou Classic model B144 be large enough to hold the grain bill for a mash? I'm completely new to this, so I really don't know. I will of course be starting with 5 gallon batches, until I know just what in the heck I am doing.

Yes a 20 gallon pot is a nice size for 10 gal BIAB. Using a basket is optional IMHO, I prefer to just use a bag, I have never used a basket and have done many BIAB batches.

SFGiantsFan925 said:

Any idea what would contribute to a "grain" aftertaste??

I have brewed 4 BIAB batches now, and my last 2 (EdWorts Bavarian Hefe, and a Belgian Blonde). Both have a "grain" aftertaste. The beer tastes great, but its almost like a very prominent grain flavor in the finish that seems to last quite a long time. I dont get this in any of the commercial beers I have tried. Not sure what would make this. All my beers have finished under 1.020, around 1.014 or so, and I have been getting low 70% eff.. So, I dont really know what it would be.

Is it due to the Wheat used in the recipes? My Pale Ale using the same BIAB method doesnt have the flavor. Unless its just covered up by the hops in it.

Any idea what would cause this??

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Not sure I'd this applies - but when I have tastes what I would describe as grain - the beer was young/green - and it dissipated with time in the keg.

Also, I assume you are no just tasting freshness. What is your base grain? Perhaps a different base will change that? Have all the grain-ey batches been with the same recipe? I assume the wheat you use in a pale ale is in the 5% range - and I can't imagine this doing it, but perhaps if there is more wheat it could.

I have used a 15g pot for some normal gravity 10g batches. Pushes the limits, frankly, but it did work. A 20g pot is just a dream for me at this point....