Help wiring my contactors

So, I understand the principle of a contactor...and I understand the need for them in my simple 120V 2000W RIMS--in a nutshell, so that I can switch higher currents on/off with my illuminated switches from Auber that are not rated for current as high as that which is required by the 2000W element.

So anyway, now that I've received my contactors in the mail, I need some assistance in getting them wired correctly. I've posted some pictures; the last of which I've labelled with letters A through F. I've included my best guess at the purpose of each connection (A through F). If people could chime in and either confirm or refute, that would really help me out...

Contactor side view:


Contactor side view 2:


Contactor specs:


Contactor top view:


And my best guess at the different terminals:
A - Connects to hot line from terminal strip or other source.
B - Connects to neutral/common line from terminal strip or other source.
C - Connects to switch (though not sure if this side is neutral or hot)
D - Connects to neutral/common line from device (ie, element)
E - Connect hot line leading to device (ie, element)
F - Connects to switch (though not sure if this side is neutral or hot)

You have a double pole contactor.

For the element...
Wire your 120v HOT from terminal strip to A and from E to your element outlet.
Wire your 120v NEUTRAL from terminal strip to B and from D to your element outlet. - Though you really don't need a contactor on your NEUTRAL, it's up to you. It won't hurt having it.

Your coil connections are on C and F. Wire your 120v HOT from terminal strip to one side of your switch, then from the other side of the switch to the contact. Then wire your 120v NEUTRAL from the terminal strip to the other side of the contactor. You have a maintained switch, right?

Test this out before you add your 240v L1 and L2. Hook up the 120v hot and neutral to the contactor (along with the switch) and you can see it work. Keep your fingers clear of the actuator...

stlbeer said:

Your coil connections are on C and F. Wire your 120v HOT from terminal strip to one side of your switch, then from the other side of the switch to the contact. Then wire your 120v NEUTRAL from the terminal strip to the other side of the contactor. You have a maintained switch, right?

Click to expand...

Yup, it's a maintained switch. So, for supplying power to the coil on the contactor, does it matter which side gets hooked to hot/neutral? Just don't want to wire it backward...

stlbeer said:

Test this out before you add your 240v L1 and L2. Hook up the 120v hot and neutral to the contactor (along with the switch) and you can see it work. Keep your fingers clear of the actuator...

Click to expand...

I'm not actually hooking up L1 and L2 lines...just going to use it for my 120v line that will supply power to the downstream components in my control panel (2000w element and 2 pumps). No issues there, right?

Sorry about the ambiguous post. I thought it was 240v, but before I posted noticed it was 120v and did not get the entire post corrected. SO...sorry about that. Just make sure the wire gauge you use for the element power (terminal strip > SSR > Contactor > Outlet) etc, is appropriately sized for the load.

stlbeer said:

Sorry about the ambiguous post. I thought it was 240v, but before I posted noticed it was 120v and did not get the entire post corrected. SO...sorry about that. Just make sure the wire gauge you use for the element power (terminal strip > SSR > Contactor > Outlet) etc, is appropriately sized for the load.

Click to expand...

No problem at all...I appreciate the info. Did you see my followup questions above? Please let me know if you can...thx again

EvilBrewer said:

No problem at all...I appreciate the info. Did you see my followup questions above? Please let me know if you can...thx again

Click to expand...

Let's see, 2000w/120v = 16.7Amps. I'm not sure of the draw on your pumps, but March 809's don't draw enough to worry about. Both will probably be less than an amp.

You didn't mention it in this thread what type of circuit you're running on, but so long as you're running on a dedicated 20amp circuit you'll be fine. This does put you over 80% of a 20amp circuit. If you're using a dedicated 20amp circuit you won't have to worry about tripping your circuit breaker. A word of caution here - do not try to run this on a regular 15amp circuit. The heater element alone will cause it to trip.

Good luck!

stlbeer said:

Let's see, 2000w/120v = 16.7Amps. I'm not sure of the draw on your pumps, but March 809's don't draw enough to worry about. Both will probably be less than an amp.

You didn't mention it in this thread what type of circuit you're running on, but so long as you're running on a dedicated 20amp circuit you'll be fine. This does put you over 80% of a 20amp circuit. If you're using a dedicated 20amp circuit you won't have to worry about tripping your circuit breaker. A word of caution here - do not try to run this on a regular 15amp circuit. The heater element alone will cause it to trip.

Good luck!

Click to expand...

Thanks again...and yes, the circuit etc that I'm using is in line with what you described. One question specifically...in wiring the contactor, does it matter which side of the coil gets the hot wire?

not on your coil

EvilBrewer said:

Thanks again...and yes, the circuit etc that I'm using is in line with what you described. One question specifically...in wiring the contactor, does it matter which side of the coil gets the hot wire?

Click to expand...

It's an electromagnet. Polarity isn't an issue. Hot on one side and neutral on the other.

stlbeer said:

It's an electromagnet. Polarity isn't an issue. Hot on one side and neutral on the other.

Click to expand...

Excellent...thanks a lot!

stlbeer said:

Hook up the 120v hot and neutral to the contactor (along with the switch) and you can see it work. Keep your fingers clear of the actuator...

Click to expand...

Got one of my contactors wired up last night...works great. The first time it switched on, the mechanical *pop* startled me (when it makes the connection). I'm assuming that is the actuator you mentioned.

In that instant, I was sure I had electricuted myself, haha. But no everything is great; thanks again.

Great! Learning by doing. I'm sure you've now come to the conclusion how this this switches the power off and on to your element. When the contacts are open, no power, when closed, power. The solid Ka-chunk is good!

Haha I am very close to plugging in my control panel and testing it next week.....reading this helped keep me from "ka-chunking" in my pants when mine makes that sound. Thanks for the laugh.

stlbeer said:

You have a double pole contactor.

For the element...

Wire your 120v NEUTRAL from terminal strip to B and from D to your element outlet. - Though you really don't need a contactor on your NEUTRAL, it's up to you. It won't hurt having it.

Click to expand...

I don't mean to start an argument but, I've been under the impression that you should never put a switch in a neutral line. I'm sure someone more fluent in electricianese can explain whether I have been mislead or not.

skipper1953 said:

I don't mean to start an argument but, I've been under the impression that you should never put a switch in a neutral line. I'm sure someone more fluent in electricianese can explain whether I have been mislead or not.

Click to expand...

Generally, correct - you don't switch a neutral.

skipper1953 said:

I don't mean to start an argument but, I've been under the impression that you should never put a switch in a neutral line. I'm sure someone more fluent in electricianese can explain whether I have been mislead or not.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm not an expert either but what you're saying makes sense...and I've heard (read) that in other places. As such, I decided not to switch any of my neutral lines. So, my contactors are double pole, but I'm only using 1 of the poles on each contactor (for the hot line).

I'm about 95% finished wiring everything up...when complete, I'll post some pictures, along with the schematic that I used as reference.

You should never switch a neutral instead of hot. That really only applys to cases that you are only switching 1 of the 2. Switching both is fine.

Note I'm not an expert either.

Thanks again for the assistance...here's the final product:

My new RIMS control panel

OMJ said:

You should never switch a neutral instead of hot. That really only applys to cases that you are only switching 1 of the 2. Switching both is fine.

Note I'm not an expert either.

Click to expand...

You are correct. No problem.