Jaybird's Stainless False Bottoms
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Mrbrownfolks
Member
I've been taken care of.
dburgette
Well-Known Member
Mrbrownfolks said:
Not to worry my friend. From my experience you will be taken care of. I have seen and experienced great customer service from jaybird. I do know they opened a new shop, so they may be busy. They will make it right.
OP
OP
I think where the mix up came from is the PM's here on HBT we were talking about a cooler kit and thats what you gave me measurements and instructions for, then you ordered a keg conversion kit and left me cooler measurement notes when you placed the order, honestly I just thought you hit the wrong key when you ordered. I have to take full responsibility for your order as I read the notes and was sending you what we talked about here.
I will get you a keg conversion kit in the mail tomorrow morning if that is really what you need and send it out 2-3 day priority.
Very sorry for the mix up.
Jay
This means a lot to me my friend! Thank you!
Cheers
Jay
I got my FB a few weeks ago and have done 2 batches with it so far. I have been having a lot of problems with a stuck mash. I'm using a 15" hinged and the diptube sits about 1/4" off the bottom of my keg. My first batch had a few problems and I had to blow back through the tube connected to my pump to unstick the mash. For my second batch I made sure all the connections were perfect and fit super tight. But like an idiot, brewed a dunkleweisen for an upcoming competition, it got totally stuck and even by blowing back into the mash could not get it to flow. I had to dump my mash into my old cooler mash tun to finish it out.
What am I doing wrong?? I've never used a false bottom before and have a hell of a time putting it together each time, but it looks good when I get it all ready. I end up with a ton of grain below the FB after the mash as well. I'm scared to use it again and have thought about switching to the stainless braid. But I have read so many good reviews it must be something that I'm doing wrong?
What am I doing wrong?? I've never used a false bottom before and have a hell of a time putting it together each time, but it looks good when I get it all ready. I end up with a ton of grain below the FB after the mash as well. I'm scared to use it again and have thought about switching to the stainless braid. But I have read so many good reviews it must be something that I'm doing wrong?
jkarp
Well-Known Member
Do you mill your own grain csamson? If so, how fine are you going? I've never had a single stuck mash since switching to one of Jay's false bottoms, but I'd only ever had a couple with the previous stainless braid, to be honest. Some grain getting through is normal. That's why a vorlauf is necessary to set the grain bed. Once set though, I get super clear wort and can recirculate at the full rate of a march pump.
Also, did you use any rice hulls on that Dunkelweizen? Wheat malt has no husk of course so something is needed to make the filter bed.
Also, did you use any rice hulls on that Dunkelweizen? Wheat malt has no husk of course so something is needed to make the filter bed.
ScottSingleton
Well-Known Member
Jay;
I've got a 80qt pot I need a false bottom for and I didn't see a matching size listed on your site.
The thing is an 80qt "Update" brand SS kettle from instaware. You can see it here:
http://www.instawares.com/stainless-steel-stock-pot-sps-80.upi-sps80.0.7.htm?view=list
It lists the diameter as 20" but the actual internal diameter appears to be about 19 and 7/8. I'm assuming the dimensions listed on the site are external dimensions.
I've got a 80qt pot I need a false bottom for and I didn't see a matching size listed on your site.
The thing is an 80qt "Update" brand SS kettle from instaware. You can see it here:
http://www.instawares.com/stainless-steel-stock-pot-sps-80.upi-sps80.0.7.htm?view=list
It lists the diameter as 20" but the actual internal diameter appears to be about 19 and 7/8. I'm assuming the dimensions listed on the site are external dimensions.
I do mill my own grain but never had problems with the factory mill crush setting when I was using a copper manifold with a cooler. I figured the setting would be fine but maybe I should adjust it? I used what I had on hand for rice hulls for the Dunkelweisen but it was only a few cups I'd say. I couldn't even get a vorlauf going on the Dunkelweisen. I've seen people cut holes in the bottom of the dip tube as well. Maybe I can try that too. Planning to brew again this weekend so I need to make some sort of adjustment ASAP.
So can I ask questions on this thread about my falsebottom?
I met Jaybird in person like 2 months ago on the day he happened to be moving his shop. Unfortunately he had already packed and moved the parts I was looking for (stainless fittings) so he told me to let him know when I ordered online and he'd cut me a break on shipping. As promised he did just that. I also orderd a FB at that time, and worked with another guy (I forgot his name, but he was awesome!) when placing that order. I now have the FB, and have done 3 brews with it.
My question also has to do with Vorlaufing. I'm having a hell of a time, if not an impossible time trying to get the wort to run clear. I have to drain nearly the whole batch (batch sparging in a 10g cooler) to get what seems like a half/assed bed set.
My first batch I was making a pliney clone and it called for mash hopping, so I figured it might have been the leafhops I used. But my next mash was the same problem, and it was a 1.105 dark belgian. It's hard to expect that one to get clear so I vorlaufed half the mash before carefully re-adding it and draining, and didn't worry about it. TBH, I have no idea how that beer will turn out since it's still fermenting. It smelled great in fermentation though...I used the belgian blend from WL.
My most recent batch was a pale, and I had the same issue with vorlauf/bedsetting.
I get my grain pre-milled from morebeer, so I'm assuming that it's not the crush. Any help?? Do I need to use rice hulls (or whatever it is I read about from time to time..sorry I'm new to AG) or do something different? Everything I keep hearing tells me that 1 or 2 quarts should have my wort running very clear, but that's just not what's happening. I'm either getting somewhat clear-ER wort after a couple gallons, or just settling for cloudy wort, but it's not what I think I should be getting.
Thanks, and sorry to crash the thread..but it is indeed a testimonial, and I love the false bottom, perfect fit, and service was outstanding!
I met Jaybird in person like 2 months ago on the day he happened to be moving his shop. Unfortunately he had already packed and moved the parts I was looking for (stainless fittings) so he told me to let him know when I ordered online and he'd cut me a break on shipping. As promised he did just that. I also orderd a FB at that time, and worked with another guy (I forgot his name, but he was awesome!) when placing that order. I now have the FB, and have done 3 brews with it.
My question also has to do with Vorlaufing. I'm having a hell of a time, if not an impossible time trying to get the wort to run clear. I have to drain nearly the whole batch (batch sparging in a 10g cooler) to get what seems like a half/assed bed set.
My first batch I was making a pliney clone and it called for mash hopping, so I figured it might have been the leafhops I used. But my next mash was the same problem, and it was a 1.105 dark belgian. It's hard to expect that one to get clear so I vorlaufed half the mash before carefully re-adding it and draining, and didn't worry about it. TBH, I have no idea how that beer will turn out since it's still fermenting. It smelled great in fermentation though...I used the belgian blend from WL.
My most recent batch was a pale, and I had the same issue with vorlauf/bedsetting.
I get my grain pre-milled from morebeer, so I'm assuming that it's not the crush. Any help?? Do I need to use rice hulls (or whatever it is I read about from time to time..sorry I'm new to AG) or do something different? Everything I keep hearing tells me that 1 or 2 quarts should have my wort running very clear, but that's just not what's happening. I'm either getting somewhat clear-ER wort after a couple gallons, or just settling for cloudy wort, but it's not what I think I should be getting.
Thanks, and sorry to crash the thread..but it is indeed a testimonial, and I love the false bottom, perfect fit, and service was outstanding!
Save your clams and buy a pump. I've got a jaybird FB and after a couple of minutes of vorlaufing with the pump it's completely clear. I don't think it's necessary to have clear wort to the BK, and I'm not really sold that vorlaufing is necessary at all, though, but that's a topic for a different place.
A pump is my next major purchase actually. Do you open the valve all the way and then just recirc back into the tun?
Thanks for the response. It's very cool that I've only asked a hanful of questions on this forum overall, and you've answered two of them.
FWIW and OT, that All cascade IPA (pitched at 90f thread) never did get any better. It's still in a keg, but if I ever get to the point I need to use that keg, I'm dumping the beer.
Shhh..don't tell Revy.
dburgette
Well-Known Member
jbaysurfer said:
Throttle it back to a slow speed and recirculate back into mt Then open it slightly and let it recirculate for 5 minutes and it will be crystal clear.
OP
OP
As you know I try and get the diptubes to set about 1/2" above the bottom of the kettle so it cant get mashed down and stop the flow. But I am working with the measurements you guys give me.... I do know its a pain to get the second measurement accurate and there are other factors involved. If the hole is drilled in a spot that the ball valve is not sitting straight etc etc etc. I would be willing to bet your diptube is getting stuck on the bottom of the kettle. If you have a way to cut the bottom of the diptube off about another 1/4" or even at an angle your problems will probably go away. If you dont have a way to do that let me know I can shoot you out another one cut a bit closer to what you need. Ill just need to get a measurement off that one you have. PM me if need anything or you cant get this one going ...
Cheers
Jay
dburgette
Well-Known Member
Jaybird said:
The one solution to that whole issue is to use a bottom draining mash tun. No worries.
OP
OP
No need to be sorry man, not at all! let me ponder this for a bit. I am on my way to the brew club meeting and I will hit the rest of this thread later tonight....
Cheers
Jay
Right on Jay. Thanks, and thanks for recommending the brewpub DT that had racer X on draft!!!
OP
OP
Ohhh Yeah I love that place! Always great beers and the service IMHO is second to none.
Okay I have thoughts about your issue a bit and I have a few questions that I will post here so we can all be part of the learning process.
1. What is your average water/grain ratio?
I have found the looser the wort the faster it clears.
2. How fast are you draining your first running?
Seems that some people are afraid to really let it rip. On my system I run wide open (1/2" full port stainless ball valve from Nor*Cal Brewing Solutions for $12.99
) for about 2-3 min recirculating the entire time.3 What temp is your mash when you start draining?
doing a mash out and raising the temp will help. My system is automated so I can recirculate for as long as I want with a push of a button. That said I don't do a mash out myself but raising the bed temp to 165-170 will help.
4. Are you doing a iodine test for full conversion?
a lot of what can make our wort cloudy is the lack of conversion. Having the proper amount of enzymes to do a full conversion and the proper time is essential.
Cheers
Jay
Ohhh Yeah I love that place! Always great beers and the service IMHO is second to none.
Okay I have thoughts about your issue a bit and I have a few questions that I will post here so we can all be part of the learning process.
1. What is your average water/grain ratio?
I have found the looser the wort the faster it clears.
2. How fast are you draining your first running?
Seems that some people are afraid to really let it rip. On my system I run wide open (1/2" full port stainless ball valve from Nor*Cal Brewing Solutions for $12.99
3 What temp is your mash when you start draining?
doing a mash out and raising the temp will help. My system is automated so I can recirculate for as long as I want with a push of a button. That said I don't do a mash out myself but raising the bed temp to 165-170 will help.
4. Are you doing a iodine test for full conversion?
a lot of what can make our wort cloudy is the lack of conversion. Having the proper amount of enzymes to do a full conversion and the proper time is essential.
Cheers
Jay
Ok,
So you have to keep in mind I only have 3 brews under my belt using this, but I'll try to answer all the questions best I can:
1)Keep in mind the smallest of the 3 brews I've done with the FB is considered borderline between a pale and an IPA.
My water volumes were all determined by beersmith.
Imperial IPA: 1.45
Belgian Dark Strong: 1.27
IPA: 1.5
I had to pull the numbers off Beersmith and do the math by hand, I couldn't find a grain to water ratio box in the software, but seems like it should be there.
2)I did fail to open it all the way the first brew. The second brew was the Belgian, 1.105 OG, and it's so dark it's hard to say categorically it didn't go better, because I DID open the valve all the way, but I had completely drained the TUN before I felt it was improving at all. This I can see easily being fixed with a pump. I do have a 1/2" valve on the tun. But 2-3 minutes wide open is a large portion of the mash contents. Maybe the idea of getting clear runnings after a couple quarts is a pipedream? My 3rd brew was the best of all, but it still never cleared completely and I did have the valve wide open.
3) In all but the first brew, the temp was mashout temp 168ish. I did have the most trouble with the first brew coincidentally, and I didn't mash out on that brew.
4) I have not done an iodine test as the preboil gravity on all three brews was about where it should have been after the alloted time according to beersmith. The worst efficiency I had, and cloudiest wort was (again) the first brew (the IIPA). So it's possible I didn't complete conversion on that one, and I just boiled off to get the finishing gravity I was looking for.
IIPA: Estimated Preboil Gravity: 1.056; actual PBG: 1.048
The Belgian came out more efficient then I planned for on the software, and the IPA came out spot on the estimated PBG.
Maybe I'm wrong, but with the exception of the first brew I figured if I was hitting my PBG estimates I was getting conversion?
Thanks, and maybe I'm doing something totally newbish that created all this, or maybe I'm expecting a wort clarity that's not realistic. If so, just point it out and I'll gladly learn from it!
dburgette
Well-Known Member
Click on Mash Details > Double Click on Whatever you named your mash ("Mash In" I believe is the default)
You should see what Beersmith assigned your water/grain ratios.
1.25 was the setting for all of them. I don't know how I got the math wrong, just divide the number #s of grain into the number qts of water, but hey
This is such a massive post that even using "search this thread" yields multiple pages of results. Direct me to the right spot if this has been answered already..
How effective is a FB/hop blocker combo (center dip tube) with the following setup: keggle -> pump -> CFC -> fermenter. Assuming 12 oz pellets (no leaf or whirlpool) and no cold break (no IC) how much pellet residue would get through the FB/HB combo? I don't have plate chiller concerns, but still want to keep as much pellet residue out my fermenter as possible. Has anyone compared this to either hop stopper or Derrin's trub filter? Thanks.
How effective is a FB/hop blocker combo (center dip tube) with the following setup: keggle -> pump -> CFC -> fermenter. Assuming 12 oz pellets (no leaf or whirlpool) and no cold break (no IC) how much pellet residue would get through the FB/HB combo? I don't have plate chiller concerns, but still want to keep as much pellet residue out my fermenter as possible. Has anyone compared this to either hop stopper or Derrin's trub filter? Thanks.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally Posted by csamson
I got my FB a few weeks ago and have done 2 batches with it so far. I have been having a lot of problems with a stuck mash. I'm using a 15" hinged and the diptube sits about 1/4" off the bottom of my keg. My first batch had a few problems and I had to blow back through the tube connected to my pump to unstick the mash. For my second batch I made sure all the connections were perfect and fit super tight. But like an idiot, brewed a dunkleweisen for an upcoming competition, it got totally stuck and even by blowing back into the mash could not get it to flow. I had to dump my mash into my old cooler mash tun to finish it out.
What am I doing wrong?? I've never used a false bottom before and have a hell of a time putting it together each time, but it looks good when I get it all ready. I end up with a ton of grain below the FB after the mash as well. I'm scared to use it again and have thought about switching to the stainless braid. But I have read so many good reviews it must be something that I'm doing wrong?
Please see this:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f41/jaybirds-stainless-false-bottoms-146056/index32.html#post3773969
I read about that in the thread as well and I think that may be exactly what I need to do. I'll test it out and let you guys know how if that fixed my problems. Thanks for the help guys!
Quote:
Originally Posted by csamson
I got my FB a few weeks ago and have done 2 batches with it so far. I have been having a lot of problems with a stuck mash. I'm using a 15" hinged and the diptube sits about 1/4" off the bottom of my keg. My first batch had a few problems and I had to blow back through the tube connected to my pump to unstick the mash. For my second batch I made sure all the connections were perfect and fit super tight. But like an idiot, brewed a dunkleweisen for an upcoming competition, it got totally stuck and even by blowing back into the mash could not get it to flow. I had to dump my mash into my old cooler mash tun to finish it out.
What am I doing wrong?? I've never used a false bottom before and have a hell of a time putting it together each time, but it looks good when I get it all ready. I end up with a ton of grain below the FB after the mash as well. I'm scared to use it again and have thought about switching to the stainless braid. But I have read so many good reviews it must be something that I'm doing wrong?
Please see this:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f41/jaybirds-stainless-false-bottoms-146056/index32.html#post3773969
I read about that in the thread as well and I think that may be exactly what I need to do. I'll test it out and let you guys know how if that fixed my problems. Thanks for the help guys!
I did another brew yesterday. Vorlaufing worked. The only thing that I KNOW I did different was that I
A) Per Jay's instrux opened the valve all the way when starting draining.
B) I cracked the lid to my cooler open to equalize the air pressure between the room and the Mash tun.
These two things together allowed the mash to flow much faster at the outset, and the grainbed to settle into a nice filter. About 2 quarts of vorlauf and the wort was much clearer then either of my other two brews.
Subtle things make big differences I guess. Thanks for the tips everyone!
A) Per Jay's instrux opened the valve all the way when starting draining.
B) I cracked the lid to my cooler open to equalize the air pressure between the room and the Mash tun.
These two things together allowed the mash to flow much faster at the outset, and the grainbed to settle into a nice filter. About 2 quarts of vorlauf and the wort was much clearer then either of my other two brews.
Subtle things make big differences I guess. Thanks for the tips everyone!
OP
OP
OP
OP
Well as you know the false bottoms are not really designed to stop pellet hops altogether. That said.
I just brewed a 10 gallon batch of IPA. It went a little something like this.
2 oz pellet @ 60 min
2 oz pellet @ 20 min
2 oz whole @ 5 min
12 oz pellet @ 5 min
2 oz bitter orange peel @ 5 min
I wish I could post more pictures here because I think you would get the drift of what a 15" false bottom can stop. I use an IC and was testing a new product. The 15" stopped about 80% of all the hops... I didn't weigh them but from what I took out of the kettle and what little was trapped in my new product I can easily say 80% and probably more like 85%. all the hops that came out of the kettle came out in the first runnings from the boil kettle, so they got there during the boil and not after the drain started.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Jay
OP
OP
It worked good but I need to make a change on screen size. I have new screen on the way from my manufacture and will get it tested again as soon as it hits the store. All in all I was impressed with the results, the function and the ease of use but the flow was a little to slow and it slowly got clogged with the 18oz of hops and 2oz of orange peel I threw at it. But I am working on it and really think its going to rock! Besides, it's making me brew, something I have not gotten to do here lately, and I will NEVER complain about that!
Cheers
Jay
SandbaggerOne
Member
I just received one of Jaybird's hop blockers for my brew kettle. It looks great, it fits great, and I can't wait to brew with it. I use mostly whole hops so it should work well. Thanks for the quick and painless service!
OP
OP
Jaybird, if I understand you correctly you're currently perfecting the screen size on your little hop-blocker thingy that when paired together with your 15" FB will, in combination, catch almost all the pellet residue (FB=85%, HB=15%). If I'm right this will be a brewer's holy grail! Do you have any thoughts on whether a slow re-circulation at flame-out to sanitize the lines would still be possible or would it potentially block the screens? I know you're still in testing, but I'm seriously excited about this.
big_al_in_k-zoo
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to say "thanks" for the great product! The 15" False bottom is amazing.
I previously used a 12" domed false bottom with less than good results. Very hard to re-circulate (if at all) almost always got a stuck mash/sparge. No matter what I did to fix this worked. i.e. higher water/grain ratio, larger gap on mill, rice hulls, etc.
After two uses, I wish I would have bought this way sooner. Used it today to make a 5 gallon wheat beer. 60% wheat and NO RICE HULLS and this bad boy worked like a champ.
Here's a video of me using today:
[ame]http://youtu.be/d7Jvul59Hs4[/ame]
If you are on the fence about buying this, do yourself a favor and purchase it. It's definitely worth the money and I'm glad I don't have the hassle with a 1-2 hour delay trying to fix my stuck mash/sparge!
I previously used a 12" domed false bottom with less than good results. Very hard to re-circulate (if at all) almost always got a stuck mash/sparge. No matter what I did to fix this worked. i.e. higher water/grain ratio, larger gap on mill, rice hulls, etc.
After two uses, I wish I would have bought this way sooner. Used it today to make a 5 gallon wheat beer. 60% wheat and NO RICE HULLS and this bad boy worked like a champ.
Here's a video of me using today:
[ame]http://youtu.be/d7Jvul59Hs4[/ame]
If you are on the fence about buying this, do yourself a favor and purchase it. It's definitely worth the money and I'm glad I don't have the hassle with a 1-2 hour delay trying to fix my stuck mash/sparge!
dburgette
Well-Known Member
big_al_in_k-zoo said:
Looking good. Good choice in beers as well.
OP
OP
Grzebyk26
Active Member
Jaybird,
I am going to be using a 15 gallon ss kettle and am looking to buy one of your false bottoms. My only dillema is that I am not sure if I want to use a dip tube or a bazooka filter underneath the false bottom. what would you reccomend
I am going to be using a 15 gallon ss kettle and am looking to buy one of your false bottoms. My only dillema is that I am not sure if I want to use a dip tube or a bazooka filter underneath the false bottom. what would you reccomend
OP
OP
Grzebyk26
Active Member
It is for the mash tun
ThreeBrothersBrewery
Well-Known Member
So we are going to be doing a keggle conversion shortly for a mash tun. Would the hinged 15" hinged be best? If is is what else would be a good addition, if not what's the best size?
OP
OP
just the 15" hinged and a diptube is all you need if you have the ball valve and everything else. No need for a bazooka tube at all,not in a mash tun.
15" hinged is the best option. Add a handle for ease of use, getting the false bottom in and out. If you need a diptube I can custom make that for you as well.
Cheers
Jay
ThreeBrothersBrewery
Well-Known Member
Sound like we will be placing the order on your site soon! Cheers!
