Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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@apratsunrthd

14.00 lb Pilsner (Weyermann) (1.7 SRM) Grain 2 93.3 %
1.00 lb Special B (Dingemans) (147.5 SRM) Grain 3 6.7 %
-

43L (11.37gl) was pre-boil volume.
60min boil
36.8L (9.73gl) post-boil volume.
38.8L (10.26gl) Batch size (with 2L top off).
Beersmith2:
Est Mash Eff: 72.9%
Measured Mash Eff: 79.6%
Measured Efficiency: 77%
-

Dubbel:
Batch size: 5.26gl
OG: 1.062
Other ingredients:
1.00 lb Belgian Candi Syrup - Dark (Dark Candi I Sugar 5 10.5 %
0.50 lb Cane (Beet) Sugar (0.0 SRM) Sugar 6 5.3 %
0.50 lb Dememera Sugar (2.0 SRM) Sugar 7 5.3 %
Beersmith2:
Est Mash Eff: 74.5%
Measured Mash Eff: 53.2%
Measured Efficiency: 88.5%
-

Saison:
Batch size: 5gl
OG: 1.042
This had a 2L top off to reach batch size.
Beersmith2:
Est Mash Eff: 73.9%
Measured Mash Eff: 74.8%
Measured Efficiency: 75.1%
-
 
Has anyone put a tri-clover fitting on their Braumeister yet? I have a bunch left over from my original brewing system and would hate to let them go to waste.
 
As I mentioned in a previous post, probably the hardest thing about the 10gl brew in the 20L Braumeister is working with large volumes of water in the kitchen. Having graduated vessels would be helpful inorder to take accurate volume measurements, a liter here and there adds up.

Another take on this 20L Braumeister 10gl method, maybe to mash the 15lbs of grain as usual, drain out most of the wort, then fill it back up with fresh water, and run heat/pump manually for 20-30min. Pull out maltpipe and test sparge runoff. If there is what to sparge then do so till pre-boil volume is met. I'll stew on it, in the meantime I've got a bunch of 5gl batches todo.

Shoehorning this type of batch into brewing applications is not straightforward.
The standard batch was easier and the numbers jived better.
 
Getafix said:
Another take on this 20L Braumeister 10gl method, maybe to mash the 15lbs of grain as usual, drain out most of the wort, then fill it back up with fresh water, and run heat/pump manually for 20-30min. Pull out maltpipe and test sparge runoff.
Click to expand...

This sounds like a batch sparge and makes perfect sense to me. Great idea!
 
Sparging in the Braumeister is just intuitive to the unit.
I'm thinking something like this for a 10gl batch (OG: 1040) from the 20L Braumeister:

52L total water, 27L for the mash, with a 25L sparge.

Fill Braumeister with 13L water.
Add maltpipe, and 15lbs malt.
Top up with remaining 14L of water, till it reaches bottom of upper maltpipe pegs.
Mash, add rest of 14L water, when\if possible.
Approx. 21L wort will be left after mashing, Drain wort.
Add 25L water at sparge temps to the Braumeister.
Manually program sparge temps, and pump for 20-30min at set temp.
Pull maltpipe, test runoff.
Approx. 24L will be left from the 2nd run, combine this well with the 21L from the first run, for a total pre-boil volume of 45L.
Split into two 22.5L batches, one for the Braumeister, the other for the kettle.
Chilled post-boil wort volume should be approx. 39L
If this is all one batch, recombine then split to two 19.5L batches.
 
Anyone else have figures on boil off? Haven't brewed yet but surprised the Braumeister is only 0.65 gallons per hour given they say to leave off lid during boil.
 
Wow brewing with a Braumeister is a dream. Just did my first 10G batch ever and things are going quite well.

Amazed at how clear the wort gets during each of the phases. Hoping my beer has more head retention with the protein rest.

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
16 lbs Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 68.8 %
1 lbs 4.0 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 3 5.4 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 4 4.3 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 5 4.3 %
1.10 oz Cluster [7.90 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 16.0 IBUs
1.20 oz Cascade [7.10 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 7 12.1 IBUs
0.80 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Aroma Steep 60.0 min Hop 8 0.0 IBUs
4 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 17.2 %
1.0 pkg California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) [35.49 ml] Yeast 10 -
2.0 pkg American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) [124.21 ml] Yeast 9 -

Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.060 SG Measured Original Gravity: 1.052 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.013 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 6.2 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 5.5 %
Bitterness: 28.1 IBUs Calories: 484.7 kcal/l
Est Color: 12.0 SRM
Mash Profile

Mash Name: Temperature Mash, 2 Step, Full Body Total Grain Weight: 23 lbs 4.0 oz
Sparge Water: -1.51 l Grain Temperature: 22.2 C
Sparge Temperature: 75.6 C Tun Temperature: 22.2 C
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Mash PH: 5.20

Mash Steps
Name Description Step Temperature Step Time
Protein Rest Add 53.0 l of water at 55.2 C 52.0 C 20 min
Saccharification Phase 1 Heat to 67.0 C over 15 min 67.0 C 40 min
Saccharification Phase 2 Heat to 73.0 C over 10 min 73.0 C 20 min
Mash Out Heat to 78.0 C over 5 min 78.0 C 10 min
Click to expand...

Added approx 6l during mash out as "sparge" to get back to 53L to start boil.
Pre-boil gravity is reporting 82% efficiency.
 
I have a brewday coming up, and am thinking something like this for the 20L Braumeister:

Recipe: Tripel-13.25lbs-5gl
Style: Belgian Tripel
TYPE: All Grain

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 6.23 gal
Post Boil Volume: 5.61 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.26 gal
Bottling Volume: 5.00 gal
Estimated OG: 1.070 SG
Estimated Color: 3.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 20.1 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 74.1 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
7.67 gal Toronto Ontario, Canada Water 1 -
6.00 lb Pilsner (Weyermann) (1.7 SRM) Grain 2 45.3 %
1.50 lb Barley, Raw (2.0 SRM) Grain 3 11.3 %
1.50 lb Oats, Quick Rolled (1.0 SRM) Grain 4 11.3 %
1.50 lb Wheat Malt, Bel (2.0 SRM) Grain 5 11.3 %
1.50 lb Wheat, Raw (1.6 SRM) Grain 6 11.3 %
4.00 g Saaz [3.10 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 7 2.1 IBUs
1.25 lb Sugar, Table (Sucrose) (1.0 SRM) Sugar 8 9.4 %
15.60 g Styrian Goldings [7.00 %] - Boil 60.0 mi Hop 9 16.7 IBUs
10.00 g Saaz [3.10 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 10 1.3 IBUs
1.0 pkg Canadian/Belgian Ale-Unibroue (Wyeast #3 Yeast 11 -

Mash Schedule: Braumeister-20L-Beta-Protein-SM
Total Grain Weight: 13.25 lb
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 25.00 l of water and heat to 95.0 F 95.0 F 20 min
Beta-Protein Rest Heat to 113.0 F over 0 min 113.0 F 30 min
Conversion Heat to 150.0 F over 0 min 150.0 F 60 min
Mash Out Heat to 172.0 F over 0 min 172.0 F 10 min

Sparge: Fly sparge with 1.07 gal water at 172.0 F
-

Malt conditioning and adding a couple more liters of water during the mash, really seems to make a difference in flow, especially with raw grains.
 
An updated version of my 20L Braumeister equipment profile:

Equipment Profile: Braumeister 20L-1
Batch Size: 5.26 gal

Mash Tun Volume: 10.58 gal <- actual is 11gl.
Mash Tun Weight: 30.00 lb <- actual is 30.2lbs.
Mash Tun Specific Heat: 0.12
Lauter Tun Deadspace: 0.00 gal <- not really applicable to the Braumeister.

Boil Size: 6.23 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Evaporation Rate: 10 % <- actual fluctuates a bit.
Calculate Boil Size: TRUE
Kettle Top Up Water: 0.00 gal
Hop Utilization Adjustment: 100.00 %

Trub/Chiller Loss: 0.13 gal
Cooling Loss: 4.00
Top Up Water into Fermenter: 0.00 gal
 
So I received my tracking numbers from Thorsten yesterday, my 50L unit will arrive next week. I ordered it on 10/26 via his website, paid with PayPal, and am surprised it's taking 5 weeks for receipt especially when others in this thread have indicated 3 weeks consistently. Has anyone else had shipment delays?
 
If I had to take a guess, I'd think it has something to do with shipment from Germany. That, and I'm sure Thorsten doesn't carry any sort of significant inventory (many large concerns don't do that now).

And when considering shipment, remember that most trans-oceanic surface shipping now is in standardized 40 ft. metal containers. We have a local furniture store that has really good deals on Italian furniture, but for what you want, you may have to wait months, because they can only get those prices when they order a whole container. Something along these lines may also be in play.
 
Rico, I think you are exactly right. Thorsten doesn't carry it, it all comes direct from the factory in Germnay. Most get there shipments in 3 1/2 to 4 weeks so I would say five is not too far off and wouldn't be concerned.

Once the loaded cargo ship leaves port, it still has other ports to hit before getting here. Then your package has to go thru customs. Maybe it took longer to fill the cargo ship than usual this time.

All that being said, I feel your pain having to wait another 2 weeks on something you thought you were getting by now!!
 
Just thought to update on the first 4 beers I've done on the 20L Braumeister.

Pale Wheat-1:
OG: 1.046 <- 6 points shy of expected OG.
FG: 1.008
Mash Eff: 66.3%, Measured Eff: 64%. <- Result of Poor Crush.
This will be bottled tonight.
Aroma: Wheaty, Banana.
Taste: Grainy, Tart, Bubblegum/Banana.
The Grainy and Bubblegum/Banana flavor has subsided a bit.
I like this one alot.
-

Pale Wheat-3:
OG: 1.058 <- 6 points above expected OG.
FG: 1.010
Mash Eff: 82.3%, Measured Eff: 80.7%. <- Crushed grain separately and well.
Aroma: Spicy, Wheaty, Banana.
Taste: Sweet, Spicy, Grain, Tart, Bubblegum/Banana.
This one has better efficiency than the first, and a slightly different mash schedule.
I'm happy to have only made 5gl of this one.
Both of these have been in the fermenter about 2.5-3 weeks.
-

Dubbel:
OG: 1.040
Est FG: 1.004
Mash Eff: 53.3%, Measured Eff: 88.6%.
Aroma: Hallertauer spiciness, Dark fruit.
Taste: Sweet, Spicy, Dark fruit.
Still bubbling along. This style needs to condition longer for all the flavors to meld.
It still has a way to go.
-

Saison:
OG: 1.042
Est FG: 1.002
Mash Eff: 74.8%, Measured Eff: 75.1%.
Aroma: Citrus, Funky.
Taste: Funky, Leather, Citrus/Grapefruit.
Still bubbling along. This style needs to condition longer for all the flavors to meld.
This is one of my favorites.
The Dubbel and Saison were a 10gl batch split into 2.
-

I am very pleased with the Braumeister and the beers it produces. The Pale Wheat-1 and the Saison came out better than expected. Winter is finally settling in here, which should provide plenty of brewday opportunities.
 
First I decided I probably wouldn't be brewing in the winter - I have gotten used to cleaning the unit, FV and other stuff outside using a hose which is very relaxed but during the winter it can get 25c below zero so the water pipe outside will be frozen solid, and I thought rinsing with a shower head in a wet room would not go down very well with SWMBO.

I just figure I need to cover the drain so no grain gets to block it and empty stuff into the buckets and then take them out to the field. Might be a bit slower but manageable.

Any advice from people with more challenging cleaning facilities?

Oh, and the next one will be a single hop Northdown English style ale with 92% pale ale and 8% Crystal 150.
 
@DeGarre

I also usually do the initial spraydown outdoors to wash off all the larger particles, then bring it in usually to the bathtub, or if occupied to the kitchen sink which requires more care but is doable. Our city collects household organic waste, so the used grains will be dumped to that over winter (goes to the compost pile usually). All the residual grain, trub, hops will be washed down the drain (there isn't that much). I just put a towel down in the bathtub so that the Braumeister doesn't mark it up. None of my large pots fit into the kitchen sink, so usually I put them on their side on a towel with the opening facing and overlapping the sink by a bit. With the kitchen sink nozzle extended I squirt a bit of water in then with a plastic bristled brush scrub away, then slowly, carefully rinse. It would be unfortunate you don't brew due to that. Hopefully you have stockpiled and have a substantial pipeline. We stay pretty cold here until mid April.
 
I have a garden-hose (gardena) fitting with the same tread as the diffuser on the kitchen tap. On brewday I attach this and use a 2 metre garden hose to fill the unit, attach to the cooler and hose down the unit afterwards. I dump the spent grains in a trashbag, give the malt-pipe a quick spray in the sink and put it in the dishwasher.
 
First brew with malt crushed on my new mill yesterday. A Crankandstein 2S.
I milled on the factory setting and had a suspicion this might be too fine but I gave it a go.

I was right.. Got veeery slow cirkulation. Had to pause and stir two times when I got channelling and small eruptions.

BUT, I got my highest mash-efficciency to date; 92.3%.
Did another thing for the first time too, a decoction where I pulled 6 liters of thick mash and boiled it for 30 minutes.

So it's hard to decide if the high efficciency can be attributed to the fine crush, the decoction or a new mash-schedule I never tried before. Probably a combination.

Anyone found a perfect gap on a two-roller mill for the Braumeister?
 
so great news i was able to talk my wife into allowing me to purchase a 20L BM. I do have a few questions for you guys if you wouldn't mind answering. i read the first portion of this thread as i was very interested in the BM but was not able to keep up after my wife first decline my efforts in purchasing one, so please excuse me if these questions have been answered already.

Im in CT. USA where would be the best place for me to order one? i know a few people ordered directly from a specific person and others have ordered from morebeer.

any big difference between the 20L and 50L other than size? i believe at one point i read that the 20L was having a hard time getting a good rolling boil

What is exactly included when the item is purchased? Chiller included? etc...

Are the BM's that are selling now, fixed the previous issues people have had with them? filter screen problems? pickup tube problems? and i believe some people had pump issues?

If you could do it all over again would you purchase the BM or a DIY electrical brew system?

issues i should look for or be aware of when using my BM? Positives to look forward to when using my BM?

I would like to thank you all in advance. i just want to be sure I'm making the right decision when I'm spending this kind of money.

cheers
ed :mug:
 
forcabrew said:
any big difference between the 20L and 50L other than size? i believe at one point i read that the 20L was having a hard time getting a good rolling boil

cheers
ed :mug:
Click to expand...

Hi Ed,

Not a BM expert, but the 50L requires a 15 amp power outlet where the 20L does not. You can get a smaller malt pipe as an option, that will allow you to brew a smaller batch if using the 50L Model. Some people have gone with the 50L as it allows them more flexibility to do smaller or larger batches, and seems to suit those doing higher gravity beers as they end up with more finished product.

A number of those that have purchased the 20L version like these as they can brew more beers more often with smaller batch sizes.

I have seen the 'less than good' rolling boil - the unit I saw went from 98 - 99 degrees C (admittedly, the lid was off). Apparently this is by design, and not a fault of the unit. I guess it would not have been too hard to put a more powerful element into this when originally designing the unit if a stronger boil was what the manufacturer was seeking. The hood is supposed to assist the boil, as well as the jacket, though I know of some that have purchased the jacket, but then have not found it necessary to use this.

While on the topic of boil, I dont think the manufacturer would change the element to a stronger one in any case, as it would then mean conistency between BM's with old & new elements would not be maintained.

Matt
 
Had a brewday yesterday, and did this recipe for a Tripel from a couple of pages back:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/speidel-braumeister-brewmaster-229225/index110.html#post3507029

The water volumes changed a bit as did the mash schedule, went with something like this:

Mash Schedule: Braumeister-20L,Farmhouse, Saison
Total Grain Weight: 14.75 lb
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 27.00 l of water and heat to 100.4 100.4 F 20 min
Beta-Protein Heat to 113.0 F over 7 min 113.0 F 30 min
Maltose Rest Heat to 131.0 F over 10 min 131.0 F 15 min
Saccarification Heat to 144.0 F over 7 min 144.0 F 30 min
Dextrine Rest Heat to 154.0 F over 6 min 154.0 F 15 min
Mash Out Heat to 165.0 F over 6 min 165.0 F 10 min

Sparge: Fly sparge with 1.25 gal water at 168.0 F
-

I malt conditioned all the grain, but it wasn't enough, by the time the mash was halfway through conversion the lack of flow was obvious. I paused the program, lifted the maltpipe to the first set of pegs from the top, and stirred the grain (stirred = stab and twist). This helped till the next pump rest, when it began to compact again. The use of rice hulls is a requirement when mashing 40% or more raw grain. It has been mentioned in this thread already, adding them could have gained me at least 10 more points. The gravity on the first 4L of sparge was over 1.055. I collected about 3gl sparge, one went back to the wort, the other 2 will be used for Speise, starters and yeast culturing. Lesson learned.

It was still an enjoyable brewday, I can't wait for the next one.
A few photos for your enjoyment:

Mash-In, 14.25lbs grain.
015-b.jpg

Start of Phase 1.
017-b.jpg


End of Phase 1.
019-b.jpg


End of Mash-Out.
036-b.jpg
 
Getafix said:
...the lack of flow was obvious...
Click to expand...

Pushing the system to the max with an insanely amount of malt and water. Me personally won't be taking the risk of seeing the pump packing it in...following the experiment with interest though.:mug:
 
I won't be doing that everytime but it is good to push the envelope. It was fortunate the mash didn't experience geysers as others have mentioned. I'm looking forward to tweaking the recipe and method till everything jives as best it can.
 
Getafix said:
Had a brewday yesterday, and did this recipe for a Tripel from a couple of pages back:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/speidel-braumeister-brewmaster-229225/index110.html#post3507029

The water volumes changed a bit as did the mash schedule, went with something like this:

Mash Schedule: Braumeister-20L,Farmhouse, Saison
Total Grain Weight: 14.75 lb
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 27.00 l of water and heat to 100.4 100.4 F 20 min
Beta-Protein Heat to 113.0 F over 7 min 113.0 F 30 min
Maltose Rest Heat to 131.0 F over 10 min 131.0 F 15 min
Saccarification Heat to 144.0 F over 7 min 144.0 F 30 min
Dextrine Rest Heat to 154.0 F over 6 min 154.0 F 15 min
Mash Out Heat to 165.0 F over 6 min 165.0 F 10 min

Sparge: Fly sparge with 1.25 gal water at 168.0 F
-

I malt conditioned all the grain, but it wasn't enough, by the time the mash was halfway through conversion the lack of flow was obvious. I paused the program, lifted the maltpipe to the first set of pegs from the top, and stirred the grain (stirred = stab and twist). This helped till the next pump rest, when it began to compact again. The use of rice hulls is a requirement when mashing 40% or more raw grain. It has been mentioned in this thread already, adding them could have gained me at least 10 more points. The gravity on the first 4L of sparge was over 1.055. I collected about 3gl sparge, one went back to the wort, the other 2 will be used for Speise, starters and yeast culturing. Lesson learned.

It was still an enjoyable brewday, I can't wait for the next one.
A few photos for your enjoyment:

Mash-In, 14.25lbs grain.
015-b.jpg

Start of Phase 1.
017-b.jpg


End of Phase 1.
019-b.jpg


End of Mash-Out.
036-b.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks pretty gnarly but I love the idea of using a lot of raw adjuncts in a farmhouse ale. I just finished reading Markowski's book. While I don't think any of his examples included quite this much raw grain, I'm still intrigued. When I (finally) receive my BM, I'd love to do a few side-by-side brews with you (virtually, of course) with 1 variable between the two of us (aside from the sourced water) to see what we can come up with.
 
Great thread. I'm considering purchasing a 20L in the near future and have a couple of questions. I seem to recall some discussion earlier about whole hops but this thread has gotten so long I can't find what I'm looking for. So I apologize for any repeated questions.

1. Has anyone tried using the malt tube to boil whole hops in and if so how did it work out?

2. I know this setup doesn't require a brew stand in the conventional sense but I like seeing the ingenuity people have in devising their setups. I've seen a lot already but anybody got some great pics of how they setup pumps to a plate chiller, aeration stones, transfer systems to the fermenter, sparging etc. This system seems to redefine the conventional setups and I'm trying to get my head around it as I design my brewery.

Thanks
 
brian320fo said:
Great thread. I'm considering purchasing a 20L in the near future and have a couple of questions. I seem to recall some discussion earlier about whole hops but this thread has gotten so long I can't find what I'm looking for. So I apologize for any repeated questions.

1. Has anyone tried using the malt tube to boil whole hops in and if so how did it work out?

2. I know this setup doesn't require a brew stand in the conventional sense but I like seeing the ingenuity people have in devising their setups. I've seen a lot already but anybody got some great pics of how they setup pumps to a plate chiller, aeration stones, transfer systems to the fermenter, sparging etc. This system seems to redefine the conventional setups and I'm trying to get my head around it as I design my brewery.

Thanks
Click to expand...

RE: #1= Wow. What a great idea. I don't see how it wouldn't work, i.e., how the boil could harm the malt tube. I hasten to add that I don't own a Braumeister (yet) and have no practical knowledge of using the unit.
 
The potential issue with #1 would be that the heating coil is on the outside of the of the malt tube. You could potentially not be boiling the wort on the inside of the malt tube. Give it a shot to test it, it may work without a hitch!
 
wyzazz said:
The potential issue with #1 would be that the heating coil is on the outside of the of the malt tube. You could potentially not be boiling the wort on the inside of the malt tube. Give it a shot to test it, it may work without a hitch!
Click to expand...

I think you're right about that. It might work if you raised the malt pipe up from the bottom. Rest it on the edge in the lowest position. Also remove the gasket.
Give it a try!

You can use whole hops. The pump aren't supposed to run after the start of boil. Whole hops will clog the pump holes and you'll have to pull the pump for cleaning, but it won't affect the brew.
 
wyzazz said:
The potential issue with #1 would be that the heating coil is on the outside of the of the malt tube. You could potentially not be boiling the wort on the inside of the malt tube. Give it a shot to test it, it may work without a hitch!
Click to expand...

If the coil is able to raise the liquid inside the main body of the Braumeister to 212F, and hold a boil, I don't see how the hops in the malt tube wouldn't be utilitzed. I would be more concerned about the pump's ability to withstand circulating the wort at the higher boiling temperatures through and over the malt tube, because of course to be effective the entire volume of the wort would have to be circulated. through the hops in much the same way as the mash circulates. I don't think this would work at all for pellet hops, because I don't think the malt tube could successfully filter them out.
 
I brewed today, Bitter with some Challenger but mostly Northdown, aimed for 1049 but got 1052. Anyway, interesting and potentially scary thing happened right in the beginning: wort looked like it was going to go sky high again. 2 times out of 10 this has happened now, luckily this time I was able to fix it and didn't have to pause the programme. Check out the vids how I managed to come through OK under immense pressure:rolleyes::

part 1
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GO8HakrhPkU]Speidel Braumeister potential mashing problem Part1 - YouTube[/ame]

part 2
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4E2lFhR0MnI]Speidel Braumeister potential mashing problem Part2 - YouTube[/ame]

part 3
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ny94dC4exho]Speidel Braumeister potential mashing problem Part3 - YouTube[/ame]
 
DeGarre said:
Corona at non-flour setting with ample husks...
Click to expand...

I've had that happen on two 50% raw wheat grists and just recently on a 100% pils malt grist that I knew I had milled way too fine.

So it's a stuck mash issue. I'd consider milling a little bit coarser the next time.
 
beefeater said:
I've had that happen on two 50% raw wheat grists and just recently on a 100% pils malt grist that I knew I had milled way too fine.

So it's a stuck mash issue. I'd consider milling a little bit coarser the next time.
Click to expand...

There was only 5% wheat malt and the overall courseness was as usual. I also spend a lot of time making sure there are no dough balls. I've had this happen 2 times out of 10, both times using lighter malt bills.
 

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