Please help me design a recipe with these.....

Can someone please advice a decent (not too difficult) recipe with the following ingredients. Iv never boiled before only mixed with boiling water

2x Cans Amber Malt Extract Syrup 1.5kg each (3.3lbs each)
Hop Pellets - NZ Hallertau Aroma Alpha 8.6 100g net (3.52 oz net)
Saflager s-23 dry lager yeast - 11.5g

Chilli Bin with poly-lid.

Newly brought (only NZ $17 new!) 12 litre pot! Standard brew size 23L so its just over half of that.

Can someone please advice a good boil recipe for these? I'd like the beer to have a decent amount of hop bite. I don't need to use all the malt in the 2x cans, but would be hard to keep half a can or so left maybe?

Thanks!!

Do you have any other yeasts, or does it have to be a lager?

YooperBrew said:

Do you have any other yeasts, or does it have to be a lager?

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Hey again!

Iv also got a yeast packet left over from "Muntons Premium Lager Can Kit". Its in a silver packet with "QVB" on it, if that means anything to you? Im not sure if its really a lager or ale yeast. I used the same Saflager s-23 dry lager yeast with that can kit so have the muntons yeast left.

Other then that, the only yeast the shop had for ale was Saflagers ale yeast (blue packet instead of yellow).

Are you still there "YooperBrew"? Does anyone else know of a good way to add hops to the boil etc, and how much malt to use? Thanks

Oh just one more thing I thought of... iv got the 100g of hop pellets. What happens to these once they are boiled for an hour? Do they dissolve in the malt/water? Or do they need to be filtered out? I haven't opened the packet yet to see them!

I have not yet tackled a lager, so I can't help you there, but you could attempt a California Common ale, which uses lager yeast at ale temperatures. John Palmer has a recipe for one here.

It looks like you could hit the style using all of the LME (for a SG of about 1.043). An ounce of the hops for 60 and a quarter ounce for 15 minutes would give you 40-50 IBUs, which is at the hoppy end of the range for the style.

I dunno...I'm just noodling around in ProMash here. Regardless, it will turn out as beer, and might even be pretty good.

In response to your second question: they kind of dissolve, and make a strainer-plugging sludge at the bottom of your brew pot. It's not the end of the world, but it's a little more work to get your wort into the fermenter.

I assume you can't get any steeping grains, like crystal/caramel? You can make a good beer with what you have- but it'd be better and a truer lager if you could find some crystal 40 or something like that.

Your hallertau AAUs seems high at 8.6%, mine are usually in the 4.2% AAU range, but I came up with this

5 gallon batch
6.6 pounds of LME
.75 ounces of hallertau 60 minutes
.50 ounces of hallertau 15 minutes

Bring 2.5 gallons of water to a boil (US gallons- I don't know other measurements!) and remove from heat and add one can of extract, stirring until dissolved Bring to a boil again, and when when boiling, start your timer for 60 minutes. Add first addition of hallertau. After 45 minutes of boiling (15 minutes left), add the second hallertau hops and remove from heat and add the second can of extract. Stir well, so it doesn't scorch on the bottom, and return to heat. Boil for 15 minutes then cool. Top up with water to 5 US gallons.

Your OG should be 1.047, FG should be around 1.012 IBUs 28

Since you're using lager yeast, ferment at 50 degrees if you can.

That is just a "plain" recipe.

My Hallertaus are 6%...

I think if you are able to get the temp down to 50-55 and maintain it you could make a nice Amber Marzen (Oktoberfest) brew with what you have.

YooperBrew said:

I assume you can't get any steeping grains, like crystal/caramel? You can make a good beer with what you have- but it'd be better and a truer lager if you could find some crystal 40 or something like that.

Your hallertau AAUs seems high at 8.6%, mine are usually in the 4.2% AAU range, but I came up with this

5 gallon batch
6.6 pounds of LME
.75 ounces of hallertau 60 minutes
.50 ounces of hallertau 15 minutes

Bring 2.5 gallons of water to a boil (US gallons- I don't know other measurements!) and remove from heat and add one can of extract, stirring until dissolved Bring to a boil again, and when when boiling, start your timer for 60 minutes. Add first addition of hallertau. After 45 minutes of boiling (15 minutes left), add the second hallertau hops and remove from heat and add the second can of extract. Stir well, so it doesn't scorch on the bottom, and return to heat. Boil for 15 minutes then cool. Top up with water to 5 US gallons.

Your OG should be 1.047, FG should be around 1.012 IBUs 28

Since you're using lager yeast, ferment at 50 degrees if you can.

That is just a "plain" recipe.

Click to expand...

They had "real barley", but they said at the store ya need to put it into a net etc when you boil it. There were a number of diff grains though cant remember now. Was a lot cheaper then can extract too! I haven't even used hops before so wanted to stick to one new thing at a time

Lucky I got the "hallertau AAUs at 8.6%", as they had this one that was 15% there! Am guessing its for a pilsner or something?

Recipe looks good am going to stick to it! Seems easy enough, just gotta be careful measuring hops. So once the hops are in the boil they dissolve? EG, don't need filtered out?

As soon as my other brew is done I can start fermenting! Yopper, what do you think the FG would be on this one thats currently fermenting?

Muntons Light Malt Extract Can 1.8kg
Brewcraft Brewblend #20 1kg
Brewcraft Goldings Finishing Hops 12g, (4 - 6.5% what ever this means...)
Saflager S-23 Dry Lager Yeast

OG was high at 1054, after 2 weeks its 1020. Fermentation stopped after a week (bubbling at least). Pitched at 18*C in chilli-bin, has steadily climbed down to 11*C. Am thinking it should be 1015? Mind you the yeast says "med fermentation".

I'd only be able to give you a rough guess as to the FG of your current batch- it should be in the 1.014-1.018 range, depending on what "medium" means for attenuation.

The grains I was talking about are different types of specialty grains of malted barley, and you DO need a mesh sack or grain bag for them. One pound of something like a light crystal (also called caramel) will not replace your extract, but can add to it greatly. You don't boil those grains, you steep them at 150-160 degrees in that bag, then throw them away. This will really improve the taste and texture, and head retention in your beer.

Still, you're fine with the recipe we've made up. Like you said, one step at a time!

You don't have to strain out the hops after the boil, although some people do use a sanitized strainer and pour the cooled wort through it. It doesn't affect the taste or final product at all, so you can do whichever you want. After the wort is cooled, most of the hops sludge will settle to the bottom of the kettle and you can either pour all your wort in, or stain it out. Whichever you prefer.

YooperBrew said:

I'd only be able to give you a rough guess as to the FG of your current batch- it should be in the 1.014-1.018 range, depending on what "medium" means for attenuation.

The grains I was talking about are different types of specialty grains of malted barley, and you DO need a mesh sack or grain bag for them. One pound of something like a light crystal (also called caramel) will not replace your extract, but can add to it greatly. You don't boil those grains, you steep them at 150-160 degrees in that bag, then throw them away. This will really improve the taste and texture, and head retention in your beer.

Still, you're fine with the recipe we've made up. Like you said, one step at a time!

You don't have to strain out the hops after the boil, although some people do use a sanitized strainer and pour the cooled wort through it. It doesn't affect the taste or final product at all, so you can do whichever you want. After the wort is cooled, most of the hops sludge will settle to the bottom of the kettle and you can either pour all your wort in, or stain it out. Whichever you prefer.

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Thanks for your help!

Will make myself wait at least 4 days or so before bottling the current batch, and starting the new one!

Yooper... (or anyone else), just wondering if you know what the "Muntons Premium Lager Can Kit" yeast would likely be? Its in a silver packet with "QVB" on it, if that means anything to you? Im not sure if its really a lager or ale yeast.

Also.... what type of beer is HB "Hofbrau Munchen", Hofbrau Original? My knowledge of different beer names is limited, but it tastes similar to a Pilsner (probably is)? I prefer the Pilsner Urquell by far tho!

YooperBrew said:

I assume you can't get any steeping grains, like crystal/caramel? You can make a good beer with what you have- but it'd be better and a truer lager if you could find some crystal 40 or something like that.

Your hallertau AAUs seems high at 8.6%, mine are usually in the 4.2% AAU range, but I came up with this

5 gallon batch
6.6 pounds of LME
.75 ounces of hallertau 60 minutes
.50 ounces of hallertau 15 minutes

Bring 2.5 gallons of water to a boil (US gallons- I don't know other measurements!) and remove from heat and add one can of extract, stirring until dissolved Bring to a boil again, and when when boiling, start your timer for 60 minutes. Add first addition of hallertau. After 45 minutes of boiling (15 minutes left), add the second hallertau hops and remove from heat and add the second can of extract. Stir well, so it doesn't scorch on the bottom, and return to heat. Boil for 15 minutes then cool. Top up with water to 5 US gallons.

Your OG should be 1.047, FG should be around 1.012 IBUs 28

Since you're using lager yeast, ferment at 50 degrees if you can.

That is just a "plain" recipe.

Click to expand...

Have just finished brewing the beer! Followed your guide the best I could, only I think it was closer to 1oz of hallertau 60 minute, then .5oz at 15min. Took ages to cool the wort down though, nearly an hour! Used a cold water and a little ice bath. Was only 2.3 US gals of water plus malt etc. I Pitched the yeast at 10*C

When I added the wort to the primary tank, I prob only got half of the hop "mush" in, and threw half out.

The OG was also only 1036, am wondering why wasn't closer to your 1047? It was well mixed in.

Should still turn out ok?

Hmmm thats weird... checked he beer after work tonight. Has been 12hrs since I pitched the yeast and no activity. The yeast normally worked within 5 or so. I squeezed the plastic tank, and the airlocked moved, then moved back again. So its not losing the gas elsewhere.

I left the rehydrated dry yeast as a "syrup" for about 1.5hrs, and pitched at 8*C prob. Iced lots of ice in the wort to cool.

Hopefully will be ok in the morning.....

Well, 8 degrees is pretty cold. Your yeast might like it a bit warmer, at least to get going. Make sure you ferment at the yeast's optimum temperature. 10-12 degrees C might be better.

Lagers ferment colder, so they take a while to get going and to ferment. It'll start within three days, especially if you warm it up just a bit to get going, and then drop them temperature to the ideal fermenting temperature. I've had some lagers (but using liquid yeast with a starter) that might take a couple of days to get going.

YooperBrew said:

Well, 8 degrees is pretty cold. Your yeast might like it a bit warmer, at least to get going. Make sure you ferment at the yeast's optimum temperature. 10-12 degrees C might be better.

Lagers ferment colder, so they take a while to get going and to ferment. It'll start within three days, especially if you warm it up just a bit to get going, and then drop them temperature to the ideal fermenting temperature. I've had some lagers (but using liquid yeast with a starter) that might take a couple of days to get going.

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Hmm its now been 48hrs and no bubbles at all. Have always had bubbling the other 3 times iv used this yeast. Its warmed up to prob 12-14 degs now to try and get some activity...

Am thinking if I should pitch another yeast (mind you its a different sort, Muntons Premium Can Kit Yeast)....

YooperBrew.....

With this batch...

5 gallon batch
6.6 pounds of LME
.75 ounces of hallertau 60 minutes
.50 ounces of hallertau 15 minutes

I pitched at 8*C, after 2 days and no fermentation activity raised to 15*C, left it at that temp for a day and fermentation started. Lowered gradually back down to 10*C.

The OG was 1036 but possible is incorrect, as you suggested "Your OG should be 1.047, FG should be around 1.012".

After 2weeks its 1016 but still bubbling steadily. Im wondering if its worth doing a D-rest since the beer went to 15*C for a day or so? Or is it too late? If not im thinking keep the beer the same temp for 2weeks, then bottle from primary. I have no secondary. I was gonna wait 4 weeks ++ before trying once bottled as no secondardy.

Any thoughts?

You may not need a diacetyl rest- the best way to know is to taste it. Since it's at 1.016, now would be the time for a diacetyl rest. Take a sample, and taste it. If it has any buttery, butterscotch, or slickness on the tongue, then you should do a diacetyl rest. If not, you can just let it finish up, and then chill it down to lager a bit.

YooperBrew said:

You may not need a diacetyl rest- the best way to know is to taste it. Since it's at 1.016, now would be the time for a diacetyl rest. Take a sample, and taste it. If it has any buttery, butterscotch, or slickness on the tongue, then you should do a diacetyl rest. If not, you can just let it finish up, and then chill it down to lager a bit.

Click to expand...

Im no expert, but when took a reading it tasted ok. Its the only beer iv done where you can actually taste the hop bitterness, (other 6x were all prehopped kits). I tried my "failed" last batch last night. It was all malt and "finishing hops". It tasted very buttery and yeasty tho only 2 weeks in the bottle. This batch tasted a lot more like real beer.

If I let this beer ferment another 2 weeks and do reading, then bottle/prime, raise to room temp 2 weeks. How important is it to then drop the beer down to say 3-5*C to lager? Compared to leaving it at room temp?

Well, the "lagering" part of it is what makes a lager a lager. It really helps to smooth out the beer, and provides some "crispness" to it. Room temperature won't hurt it, but won't really "lager" it. If you like it as is, though, do as you like. I mean, it's YOUR beer and there aren't really any hard and fast rules.

If you don't taste diacetyl (buttery and/or "slick") then you're all set!