Need Help Designing an IPA recipe

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tspilker

tspilker

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This is a recipe I have been playing around with making, I compiled it from looking at some other IPA/Double IPA recipes as well as using things I currently have on hand. I am unsure about how the finishing gravity will come out on it. According to The Beer Recipator, I have a SG of 1.069 and 64 IBUs. However, I don't have any idea about how this will finish using Nottingham yeast. I would like this to maintain some malt sweetness to ride with the IBUs I have put into it, as I tend to prefer maltier IPAs over drier ones.
Let me know if you think I am way off base. I adjusted my hop additions in order of AA content first (since longer boil = more AA extraction= more bitterness). Then I finished up with some flavor/aroma from all three.

I plan on doing a partial mash.

6lb Light DME
3lb Vienna
.5lb Crystal 10L
1lb crystal 40L

1oz Chinook @ 60 min
1oz Centennial @ 45 min
1oz Cascade @ 30 min
1oz Chinook @ 15 min
1oz Centennial @ 15 min
1oz Cascade @ 15 min
2oz Centennial Dryhopped

Thanks
 
That amount of crystal will give you the sweetness you're looking for. and the Vienna will help, too. I think you're in good hoppy shape.
 
Notty can really dry a beer out. So it's probably good.

One thing you may want to do is limit the Crystal 40 to .5 lbs for now.

If the balance isn't quite right, i.e. too bitter and hoppy, it will actually get maltier over time. So it won't be ruined. But if you get it too sweet then it is hard to go back.

You're recipe looks good though, I just prefer the opposite type of IPA (almost no crystal) so I'm biased!
 
Is there a problem with shipping leaf hops without ice or anything? Or am I better off buying pellet if it's being shipped?
 
tspilker said:
Is there a problem with shipping leaf hops without ice or anything? Or am I better off buying pellet if it's being shipped?
Click to expand...

No, remember leaf hops are dried. They come vacuum packed, so there is no issue with freshness. However, I have heard that leaf hops can be less reliable in their effect. I am far from being an expert however, and have only dry hopped once (with leaf hops).
 
I'd look at getting some of those late hops moved from a 15 minute addition to a 5 .... maybe just use 1/2 oz each at 15 & then go with a 1/2 oz each at 5? Get the flavor + aroma & rely on the dry hopping for some added punch. I'd also want some Cascades in the dry hop, but that's my preference only.
 
Looks great, You will get a lot of citrus and grapefruit from the Cascade and Cenn. I have been using a mix of Cascade, Cenn. and Columbus in the dry hop. Columbus is typically used early in the boil for bittering but I find it has a nice spicyness that compliments the other citrus and grapefruit notes. Chinook might do something similar, maybe add a little in the dry hop?

And +1 on lowering the crystral a little. You can control maltyness and mouthfeel with mash temp.


Eastside
 
XXguy said:
I'd look at getting some of those late hops moved from a 15 minute addition to a 5 .... maybe just use 1/2 oz each at 15 & then go with a 1/2 oz each at 5? Get the flavor + aroma & rely on the dry hopping for some added punch. I'd also want some Cascades in the dry hop, but that's my preference only.
Click to expand...

I actually was thinking about it. I am not familiar with centennial and chinook very much. Do you think I should swap out an ounce of centennial in the dry hop for cascade? I always thought those two were supposed to be similar, with the cent. being a bit more potent.

Should I just move half of the 15 min addition, to 5 minutes? or should I move all of a certain kind to that point?

That was my biggest concern with this recipe, utilizing these hops to their fullest potential, getting good bittering, but really good aroma, as the aroma is what I really really love about IPAs

I am going to do the 8oz of the crystal 40 as you guys requested. Sounds like might end up a bit too malty otherwise. Would anyone with beersmith mind checking what my FG would be if I used nottingham?
 
tspilker said:
I actually was thinking about it. I am not familiar with centennial and chinook very much. Do you think I should swap out an ounce of centennial in the dry hop for cascade? I always thought those two were supposed to be similar, with the cent. being a bit more potent.

Should I just move half of the 15 min addition, to 5 minutes? or should I move all of a certain kind to that point?

That was my biggest concern with this recipe, utilizing these hops to their fullest potential, getting good bittering, but really good aroma, as the aroma is what I really really love about IPAs

I am going to do the 8oz of the crystal 40 as you guys requested. Sounds like might end up a bit too malty otherwise. Would anyone with beersmith mind checking what my FG would be if I used nottingham?
Click to expand...

If you lower crystal 40 to .5 Beersmith has you @ 1.074 OG and 139 IBU's, if you use Nottingham yeast, it says 1.016 FG which puts you at 7.5 ABV. If you drop all 3 additions from 15 min down to 5 it brings you down to 110 IBU's. Maybe pull some of the hops out of the boil and put them in the dry hop??

Forgot to mention this is assuming 75% efficiency.

Eastside
 
Eastside Brewer said:
If you lower crystal 40 to .5 Beersmith has you @ 1.074 OG and 139 IBU's, if you use Nottingham yeast, it says 1.016 FG which puts you at 7.5 ABV. If you drop all 3 additions from 15 min down to 5 it brings you down to 110 IBU's. Maybe pull some of the hops out of the boil and put them in the dry hop??

Forgot to mention this is assuming 75% efficiency.

Eastside
Click to expand...

Yeh, I didn't even think about that when I commented on this recipe. That's WAY too many IBU's for an IPA.

You probably want to tame that a bit!.
 
Here's what it looks like when I took a stab at it in Beersmith. I pulled out the 45 minute Centennial hop addition, assuming you're doing a full boil you're still at 80+ IBU's.... if you're doing a partial boil, you may need to adjust.

Tyler's IPA partial Mash
American IPA


Type: Partial Mash
Date: 7/28/2009
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Brewer:
Boil Size: 6.00 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Pot (6+gal) and Igloo/Gott Cooler (5 Gal)
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00
Taste Notes: Removed the 45 minute Centennial bittering addition, split the 3 hop additions at 15 minutes into 1/2 oz. each at 15, and the remaining 1/2 oz. each at 5 minutes.

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
6 lbs Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 60.00 %
3 lbs Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 30.00 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 5.00 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 5.00 %
1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] (60 min) Hops 39.7 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (30 min) Hops 12.9 IBU
0.50 oz Chinook [13.00 %] (15 min) Hops 9.9 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (15 min) Hops 4.2 IBU
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (15 min) Hops 7.6 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (5 min) Hops 1.7 IBU
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (5 min) Hops 3.0 IBU
0.50 oz Chinook [13.00 %] (5 min) Hops 4.0 IBU
1.00 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale

Dry Hop as desired.

Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.074 SG
Measured Original Gravity: _______ SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.017 SG Measured Final Gravity: _____ SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.21 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: ____ %
Bitterness: 82.9 IBU Calories: 319 cal/pint
Est Color: 10.3 SRM
Click to expand...
 
Ok. I only have enough boiling space to do ~3 gallons unfortunately.

What do you guys think? I have two pots so I can sparge, but I wont be able to boil it all at once. What does that mean for my IBUs?
 

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