Choosing A Conical Fermenter

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Glacier Tanks are having new lids made for me to my specifications with a 4" tri-clamp ferrule in the center and a 1.5" tri-clamp ferrule offset. The 1.5" opening will be used for blow assembly etc. and 4" opening will be used for pitching yeast, dry hopping, inspection, and to add an immersion chiller. You could have the tanks modified to your specs if needed. :)

That's nice, it's too bad that's not standard. I believe it is on the Blichmann
 
Blichmann has an opening similar to a soda keg and Brehemoth has a 3-4" Tri clamp. I could make due with the 1 1/2" opening but I plan to add a chiller to the conicals and a larger hole will make it removable without removing the blow off assembly. Many people use a concentric reducer if the are pitching yeast or hops. I could remove the entire 12" Tri clamp lid but I rather just have the alternate opening for what it cost. More personal preference.
 
I've been meaning to follow-up on my recent purchase. Due to this group buy thread- shut down, since it violates forum policies - I ended up taking advantage of my location in China and purchasing one. The manufacturer is the Chinese supplier to Glacier, but my fermenter is quite a bit different. I started with a simpler 50L design of theirs which from memory was about 3500 RMB (~$550). Dealing locally direct with them and paying cash, I avoided VAT ,freight, and duty. I then proceeded to customize it by extending the legs to a height perfect for racking into a corny, adding casters, a thermowell, and an internal coiling coil. The intention of the coil is not for initial chilling of the wort, as it would be horribly inefficient for that. The aim is to connect it with a pump to recirculate chilled water through it for controlling fermentation temps without the use of a dedicated fridge. All my mods ran the price tag up to 4200 RMB (~$665) I took delivery in January, but at the same time learned I'll be returning to the US a year earlier than planned. So no more brewing here, and I won't get to test it until later in the summer after I'm home. Visually I'm extremely happy with it. Unfortunately this is of little use to anyone else, since the supplier doesn't have interest in one-off units. But I thought the coil set-up may be of interest to others.

My plan is to boil directly in the conical fermenter using a heat stick. Then pump out the racking port and through a counterflow chiller. I'll add a port somewhere higher up the side for a whirlpool inlet. Previously I've been fermenting in my kettle with good success. By moving to the conical, I'll have the ability to drop the trub before pitching. I'll have to report back later on how that works out.

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View attachment 121113 50L-Model.pdf
 
Looks like a nice setup, I'd be interested to hear about fermenting in your kettle. I had similar idea of a heatstick in a conical after biab, then gravity feed into a keg, seems like I'm getting lazy.
With that coil in there you could probably rig up some type of steam boiler to heat it.
 
MaxOut said:
Here are my conicals in their automated chambers.

You have probably covered this in another thread but how do you fill those beauts. They look too heavy to fill then place so I am guessing a pump is involved?
 
TerraNova said:
You have probably covered this in another thread but how do you dill those beauts. The look to heavy to fill then place so I am guessing a pump is involved?


After boil I pump hot wort through a plate chiller, O2 injection and straight into the racking port of the fermenter. (see below) I built a cart that has a filter, Chugger pump, plate chiller and O2 injection. I use this cart to handle the final transfer in one swoop to the fermenter. Im working on a yeast brink that I will use to incubate yeast and use O2 to push it into the stream of cooled oxygenated wort inline heading to fermenter. The chambers are on wheels and the connections unplug from behind so I can roll the chamber closer to my boil kettle. The fermenters stay in the chambers and are cleaned in place with a spray ball.

image-1298420576.jpg
 
Nice thread Maxout! Got this one bookmarked in case I ever decide to take the conical plunge. For now though, I'll have to slink away before I become insanely jealous :D
 
After boil I pump hot wort through a plate chiller, O2 injection and straight into the racking port of the fermenter. (see below) I built a cart that has a filter, Chugger pump, plate chiller and O2 injection. I use this cart to handle the final transfer in one swoop to the fermenter. Im working on a yeast brink that I will use to incubate yeast and use O2 to push it into the stream of cooled oxygenated wort inline heading to fermenter. The chambers are on wheels and the connections unplug from behind so I can roll the chamber closer to my boil kettle. The fermenters stay in the chambers and are cleaned in place with a spray ball.

Stealing part of this for my setup. Thanks for the idea. Your setup is ....words fail me.
 
I went down to Glacier last week and pickd up there last in stock 18.75 gallon conical complete with triclamps on sale for 995.00. Now I need to figure out all the neat fittings for it. I'm good for now on temp controls, seeing its snowing right now. By summer I'll get some kind of cooler.
 
bela said:
I went down to Glacier last week and pickd up there last in stock 18.75 gallon conical complete with triclamps on sale for 995.00. Now I need to figure out all the neat fittings for it. I'm good for now on temp controls, seeing its snowing right now. By summer I'll get some kind of cooler.

I wish I was close to Glacier Tanks they have allot of cool brew stuff. Would have saved me a bunch on shipping too.
 
Great thread. Glacier is not to far from me and i have been endlessly thinking about how to incorporate conicals into my brewhouse, financially and pyshically.

Id be curious to hear from others, specifically those with larger sized (1-3bbl) Stout tanks and how they like them. Are there advantages of top vs side portals?

Maxout- you seem to have some nice toys in your brewhouse, im quite impressed. Do you have any other pics of your nice stuff? Im always looking for new ways to upgrade my system as it grows in size.
 
Great thread. Glacier is not to far from me and i have been endlessly thinking about how to incorporate conicals into my brewhouse, financially and pyshically.

Id be curious to hear from others, specifically those with larger sized (1-3bbl) Stout tanks and how they like them. Are there advantages of top vs side portals?

Maxout- you seem to have some nice toys in your brewhouse, im quite impressed. Do you have any other pics of your nice stuff? Im always looking for new ways to upgrade my system as it grows in size.

You can see my entire brewery - MaxOut Brewstation
 
I went down to Glacier last week and pickd up there last in stock 18.75 gallon conical complete with triclamps on sale for 995.00. Now I need to figure out all the neat fittings for it. I'm good for now on temp controls, seeing its snowing right now. By summer I'll get some kind of cooler.

Post pictures! and your set up!
 
Max capacity is 32. You have to factor your headspace based on the beer your fermenting.
 
I ferment in sankes with the top cut out and a domed lid i get 15 gallons in them and want to do 1 bbl batch in one vessel. I see that you do up a bbl brew and was wondering if you scaled the recipe back to fit the conical ?For me it is the difference of 5 cornies or 6 Thanks !
 
I brew as much as 1.5 bbl at a time and either use both conicals or a conical and the rest in buckets. Last brew I tried three types of yeast in two buckets and one conical.
 
Blichmann
I have to say that Blichmann has a very novel and beneficial solution for the home brewer. As we all see over and over no matter what size BK,MT, conical we have, we want/need bigger. Especially for the brewer that is thinking of going pro
The Blichmann 27 gallon conical is a great starter
You can then add the top section to make it into a 42 gallon conical
And if that’s not enough you can add the middle section and get a 96 gallon conical.
NOTE: you will not find the middle extension on the web site.

The advantages of these are that you can disassemble them completely for cleaning and maintenance. Two sets of gaskets is a bit of a pain. But still we grew from 27 gallons to 42 and then to 96 without throwing out anything.

llll 563.jpg
 
Bsquared
No this is not the 55 gallon BK extender.
This is a special from Blichmann. Its not on their web site yet. Works great if your interested in one send an e mail directly to Blichmann.
 
Boar beer- could you give me a price break down on what it cost to make your fermenters 96 gallons? how much was the 26 g / what did it cost to increase capacity, what was the final dollar amount for the 96 gallon fermenter? it is cool how you could just add to it and never had to replace it during your upgrade
 
Bluelakebrewing

Cant remember all the pricing going back several years
Today's price for 27 Gallon is $850
Add another $500 to go to 42 Gallons
We did add leg extensions for $200 (which we could not use with the 96)
Another $600 for the middle section to make it a 96 gallon unit

About $2000 for a 2.3 BBL fermenator.
You should figure 25% head space 96 X .75 or 72 gallons
72/31.5 = 2.3 bbl
 
Hi,

I came across your post on your Glacier tank experience while doing some research of my own.

I am looking to purchase one with the intention of using it as a uni-tank; for both primary and secondary fermentation and then directly transfer to a keg for serving.

I am really interested in using it as a pressurized fermenter, how has your experience been with this? I am hoping I won't have to do any forced carbonation. From what I have seen, people who ferment under pressure first use and air lock and then attach the pressure relief valve after. Any idea why you can't use the pressure valve from the start of fermentation and adjust as pressure in the tank changes.

Please share your sources with information on pressurized fermentation.

Thanks a lot.
 
Hi,

I came across your post on your Glacier tank experience while doing some research of my own.

I am looking to purchase one with the intention of using it as a uni-tank; for both primary and secondary fermentation and then directly transfer to a keg for serving.

I am really interested in using it as a pressurized fermenter, how has your experience been with this? I am hoping I won't have to do any forced carbonation. From what I have seen, people who ferment under pressure first use and air lock and then attach the pressure relief valve after. Any idea why you can't use the pressure valve from the start of fermentation and adjust as pressure in the tank changes.

Please share your sources with information on pressurized fermentation.

Thanks a lot.
williamssvg
I have not used our fermenters for carbonation but i would not go with a pressure valve from the start. During the first week of active fermentation that small valve could get plugged up and then you would have huge problems. we blew the top of a 42 gallon fermentor when our air lock got plugged (should have used a blow off tube) and boy did that make a mess....
What we do is put the beer in our kegs and add some sugar and do the carbonation in the keg. Lots of stuff on the sight about how much to use ect...
 
williamssvg
I have not used our fermenters for carbonation but i would not go with a pressure valve from the start. During the first week of active fermentation that small valve could get plugged up and then you would have huge problems. we blew the top of a 42 gallon fermentor when our air lock got plugged (should have used a blow off tube) and boy did that make a mess....
What we do is put the beer in our kegs and add some sugar and do the carbonation in the keg. Lots of stuff on the sight about how much to use ect...

Is there a reason that you're not using a bright tank to carbonate? I kind of like the natural carbonation idea.
 
Boar Beer said:
williamssvg I have not used our fermenters for carbonation but i would not go with a pressure valve from the start. During the first week of active fermentation that small valve could get plugged up and then you would have huge problems. we blew the top of a 42 gallon fermentor when our air lock got plugged (should have used a blow off tube) and boy did that make a mess.... What we do is put the beer in our kegs and add some sugar and do the carbonation in the keg. Lots of stuff on the sight about how much to use ect...

I use a pressure relief valve as emergancy only and use a blow off tube for 75% fermentation then close the valve to the blow off and let it carb up. Works perfect and never had any issues. Pressure relief valve has a1.25" inlet and should not get plugged easy.
 
Is there a reason that you're not using a bright tank to carbonate? I kind of like the natural carbonation idea.
I want to hopefully get everything done in the conical if possible. Since the Glacier conicals are rated upwards of 15PSI I figured it was to allow you to save the CO2 from fermentation to naturally carbonate the beer.

Has anyone been successful in doing this?
 
williamssvg
I have not used our fermenters for carbonation but i would not go with a pressure valve from the start. During the first week of active fermentation that small valve could get plugged up and then you would have huge problems. we blew the top of a 42 gallon fermentor when our air lock got plugged (should have used a blow off tube) and boy did that make a mess....
What we do is put the beer in our kegs and add some sugar and do the carbonation in the keg. Lots of stuff on the sight about how much to use ect...
Wondering, what would cause the relief valve to get blocked? If you leave enough head space in the fermenter I guess you should not have the problem?
 
I use a pressure relief valve as emergancy only and use a blow off tube for 75% fermentation then close the valve to the blow off and let it carb up. Works perfect and never had any issues. Pressure relief valve has a1.25" inlet and should not get plugged easy.
What is your pressure relief valve set to? I was just wondering how you are able to know how much CO2 is being produced during fermentation to make sure you end up with the right amount of CO2 in your beer at the end.
 

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