iijakii
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that's a good idea. I'll have to think about how to hammer it out without mucking up my kettle.
Thanks for the idea.
Thanks for the idea.
Soldering Stainless steel
- Thread starter BargainFittings
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nate456789 said:
I use a greenlee hydraulic punch to make the dimple...not something everyone has lying around I'm sure. I think I have seen an alternate tool that does the same job earlier.
Took a few tries but I finally got a decent shot of the inside:
nate456789
Well-Known Member
lschiavo said:
Looks great. I hope I can get mine to look like that.
Thanks for the picture.
nate456789 said:
No problem. I'm sure you can do it. The right solder and flux and a little patience and practice and you will be surprised how easy and quick it is.
iijakii
Well-Known Member
More I think about it - I don't think I could hammer it out cleanly.
nate456789
Well-Known Member
Did you use a Greenlee punch kit like this?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QIJP9C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Or is it a different tool? Guess I don't see how this tool would dimple the side of the keg.
Thanks
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nate456789 said:
That is the tool except my kit is to 3" and has a hydraulic driver.
I drilled a hole and used the 1in punch(male cutting part) and die(female part) to make the hole in the keg. Then I flipped the 1in die over and pulled that into a 1-1/2in die to create the dimple. Hope that makes sense.
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nate456789
Well-Known Member
That makes sense. What sizes did you use for your 1/2 coupling for your ball valve?
How many holes are these good for since you are using them on stainless instead of regular metal?
I may have to invest in a set of these.
Thanks for the info
For the 1/2in fittings, I probably used a 3/4 and 1-1/4 inch combination. It seems if you seperate by two sizes it creates a nice dimple without the risk of actually punching through (happened once).
I think my kit is older than me and it has punched plenty of stainless electrical enclosures much thicker than kegs or kettles. All my Greenlee tools seem to last forever.
There are some cheaper options:
Knockout Punch Kit - Knockout Punches at Harbor Freight Tools
Hydraulic Punch Driver w/ 5 Hydraulic Punches & Dies
You get what you pay for but these may be ok for limited use?
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Wondering if you guys can give me some advice on the best way to do this.
So I was quite dumb when ordering my false bottom from Jaybird and totally forgot about the lip at the top of my kettle, so I didn't get a hinge put in it. As you can see the FB just barely can't fit in.
So I was thinking I'd cut a slit in the lip so I can slide it through. But if you look on my pot, cutting that slit would leave me with an exterior hole as well. Would I be able to solder that shut? I don't really have much experience with soldering, so I'm not sure how I'd get the solder to stay in slit and make a seal. Is there something I could put on the backside the solder wouldn't adhere to, then remove it once it's solidified? I have a friend whom has a MIG welder, but buying one of these kits would be cheaper than purchasing some stainless core wire and I think his welds are probably a bit ugly, too
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo24/35/da/d738b764ae8a__1323130830000.jpg
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo17/d5/66/58dd07ee6f53__1323130744000.jpg
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo09/e1/14/5f25469cdd34__1322271488000.jpg
Talk nice to Jaybird and see if he would be willing to take the FB back and hinge it for you for a reasonable cost. You will eventually want take it back out, if you manage to get it in there and solder or weld it, you will be stuck.
nate456789
Well-Known Member
Yeah I was looking at those when you said you used the 1 1/2 to dimple. The original Greenlee kit only went to 1 1/4 that I want to buy. Maybe I will find a deal on the bigger kit.
Thanks for the info. You should be proud of your craftsmanship.
nate456789 said:
This is a very good kit if you really want to spend the money.
http://www.all-spec.com/products/G7238SB.html.
Happy to help and thanks for the compliment. Of course, I only show my best work. There are plenty of brewery projects that I'd rather you guys don't see
You can find Greenlee punches and punch kits on eBay.
In addition to the individual wrench turned punches, it's nice to have one of the hydraulic kits, but the ones from Greenlee are very expensive. But the Chinese kits work with the Greenlee punches. Amazon and Harbor Freight both have them. I got one from HF for about $40, but it didn't have the 3/8" stud that fits the Greenlee punches. Another $35 for a Greenlee stud, and all works fine.
In addition to the individual wrench turned punches, it's nice to have one of the hydraulic kits, but the ones from Greenlee are very expensive. But the Chinese kits work with the Greenlee punches. Amazon and Harbor Freight both have them. I got one from HF for about $40, but it didn't have the 3/8" stud that fits the Greenlee punches. Another $35 for a Greenlee stud, and all works fine.
digitalhifi
Well-Known Member
I'm sure this has been posted before, but regardless IMO this is a great video on dimpling and soldering stainless couplings. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpMFQFi6Hh4]Dimpling and soldering a 1/2" NPT coupler in a stainless homebrew kettle / pot - YouTube[/ame]
slakwhere
Well-Known Member
my couplers and dimple tool were not the right size for me to pull the adaptor all the way through. just a note to anyone watching this video that you may need to pull it and check diameter a few times then push the adaptor back out the way it came. my first test hole was too large for my coupler
nate456789
Well-Known Member
This is a very good kit if you really want to spend the money.
Greenlee 7238SB | Knockout Punch Kits.
Happy to help and thanks for the compliment. Of course, I only show my best work. There are plenty of brewery projects that I'd rather you guys don't see
I ended up getting two kits(7235BB & 7237BB) from a guy on craigslist that has all the punches in the kit you suggested. But I didn't get a ratchet in either of the kits.
The kits were brand new still in the wrapper for $150. Buying these same 2 kits on ebay or amazon were not cheaper than $300 + shipping.
Now I am hoping I get a few minutes to actually get to play with them.
I am impressed with the quality of the Greenlee kits. I had never heard of this brand until this site.
Sounds like a great deal. The ratchet is not really necessary. They turn pretty easy with the bearing on the stud. New punches should go through stainless like butter. Post up your results.
Stevo2569 said:
I couldn't find flux locally. Maybe a welding shop? I ordered mine from Grainger. I linked the stuff I used a few pages back. I used silver bearing solder. It is stronger with a higher melting temp.
After calling just about every plumbing and welding supply co in town today, I finally tracked down some Harris stay clean flux at Johnstone. Boy when I fired it up, that solder wet just like a dream. Pun intended. Thanks. You guys rock:rockin:
Huaco
Well-Known Member
After watching the video on the previous page several times and reading his details on Youtube... I still can not figure out what he is using to dimple with. I see that it is a tapered mandrel of some type, but I can't seem to find anything like it for sale online. Anyone have any idea where to get these?
OP
OP
He is using the 3/4" to 1/2" stainless steel butt-weld pipe fitting (McMaster-Carr p/n 45605K711)
Its has a taper.
He lists the parts of the tool he made on the youtube video description.
Somewhere in this thread is some pictures of the tool in use.
Its has a taper.
He lists the parts of the tool he made on the youtube video description.
Somewhere in this thread is some pictures of the tool in use.
Huaco
Well-Known Member
Doh... I must have just skimmed over it in my haste. Or, my eyes are tired from reading HBT so much! haha... Thanks for clearing that up, I see now that he indeed listed them... this is wonderful! I may be soldering my fittings into my keggles instead of fooling with washers and o-rings!
cyclogenesis
Well-Known Member
Awesome Video!
So I have my regular propane torch I use for copper, how much hotter is a mapgas torch like the one used in the video? Can you do it with propane?
So I have my regular propane torch I use for copper, how much hotter is a mapgas torch like the one used in the video? Can you do it with propane?
You do not need mapgas. Harris Stay-Brite 8 has a liquid temperature range of 430°F to 535°F, very close to standard plumbing solder. The flux you use does matter when you are soldering SS or Aluminum.
For Stainless you need to use Harris Stay-Clean Liquid Flux.
cyclogenesis
Well-Known Member
Thanks... Kinda wishing I would have seen this before putting weldless fittings in.. Looks much more solid...
slakwhere
Well-Known Member
cyclo: depending on the size of the hole you drilled you should be able to just buy couplings and pull them through the holes for your existing weldless. that's my master plan
cyclogenesis
Well-Known Member
Yes, now I think about you are right... I have a hole big enough for a nipple at the moment and a coupler would have a much bigger OD (actually now I think about it I did drill a 7/8ths hole!)
Need to go buy me some flux... Sounds like the wisdom here is that HD and Lowes was a no go and you needed to go to a welding supply shop?
Need to go buy me some flux... Sounds like the wisdom here is that HD and Lowes was a no go and you needed to go to a welding supply shop?
cyclogenesis
Well-Known Member
Is this the same stuff?
Airgas - Harris Welco® Stay-Clean® Liquid Soldering Flux, 4 Ounce Flip Top Bottle
Airgas - Harris Welco® Stay-Clean® Liquid Soldering Flux, 4 Ounce Flip Top Bottle
Yup. That is the correct flux.
cyclogenesis
Well-Known Member
Hey another Quick Q: The concentric reducer listed goes from 3/4 to 1/2... Is that the OD of the reducer? does the OD of the wide end of the reducer match up to the OD of the coupler?
Scut_Monkey
Well-Known Member
The od of the large part of the reducer should be approximately the od of the coupling. However I did find that some of the coupling I had were way to large and some slightly too small. The large coupling I could not use but with the small coupling I simply did not pull the reducer all the way through thereby leaving the hole slightly small for the smaller fittings I had to fit. It worked great. I believe bargain fittings had the best coupling size that matched perfectly.
cyclogenesis
Well-Known Member
Thankyou Mr Monkey...
Out of interest did you by the reducer from McMaster?
Out of interest did you by the reducer from McMaster?
slakwhere
Well-Known Member
+1. my couplers didn't match the OD of my reducer, so i just gave it a couple turns at a time till i found a size i liked. then i pulled the reducer out and pulled the coupler through. a few guys in this thread have over pulled dimples and find a quick tap with a wooden block and a hammer closes them up sufficiently to make good mechanical fitting... but better to measure twice and cut once as it were.
Has anyone tried using harris stay clean PASTE flux on stainless? I suppose I mistakenly assumed "stay-clean" in either configuration would work but it seems like stay-brite #8 just beads up on top of the paste.
The paste flux will not work with stainless steel. Only the liquid flux has the properties to condition the SS for proper bonding.
My experience agrees with you but the confusion comes from Harris's own data:
Here's a chat I had with Harris:
Chat InformationPlease wait for a site operator to respond.
Chat InformationYou are now chatting with 'Brandy'
Brandy: Hello. How may I assist you?
you: Hi Brandy, I have a question about the application of Harris Stay Clean Paste Flux
you: the data sheet suggests that it can be used for soldering stainless steel but I'm finding that it doesn't work at all like the liquid equivelent
you: your website says: ...Superior flux for most metals, copper, brass, bronze, steel, stainless steel,
Brandy: For soldering on stainless steel we recommend to us stay clean liquid soldering flux. Superior flux is not our product
you: no....
Brandy: I see sorry
you: http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Soldering/Fluxes/Stay-Clean-Paste-Flux.aspx
you: I purchased a 1 pound tub of this based on that data
Brandy: one moment
you: is it possible that text was just copy/pasted from liquid?
Brandy: I believe so because if you look at our spec sheet click on technical documents then under Soldering click on fluxes then click on spec next to stacy clean paste flux
Brandy: I will contact the appropriate person to fix this information on our website
Brandy: The spec sheet is correct
you: Is there any way I can swap this 1 pound tub of paste for a 16oz bottle of liquid since I can't use it
Brandy: Please contact the supplier you purchased from and have them contact customer service ph# 800-733-4043
you: I guess I'm out of luck because I got it from an Ebay vendor
you: who also parrotted the wrong info
Brandy: Sorry but we appreciate you bringing this to our attention we shall fix the information on our website
you: what I'd expect is that you'd ask for proof of purchase and ask for my shipping address so you could send me the correct product
you: I will try this through the vendor but I'm not holding my breathe
Brandy: I apologize but we do not sell direct
Brandy: Would you like a supplier in your area?
you: no, thanks anyway
Here's a chat I had with Harris:
Chat InformationPlease wait for a site operator to respond.
Chat InformationYou are now chatting with 'Brandy'
Brandy: Hello. How may I assist you?
you: Hi Brandy, I have a question about the application of Harris Stay Clean Paste Flux
you: the data sheet suggests that it can be used for soldering stainless steel but I'm finding that it doesn't work at all like the liquid equivelent
you: your website says: ...Superior flux for most metals, copper, brass, bronze, steel, stainless steel,
Brandy: For soldering on stainless steel we recommend to us stay clean liquid soldering flux. Superior flux is not our product
you: no....
Brandy: I see sorry
you: http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Soldering/Fluxes/Stay-Clean-Paste-Flux.aspx
you: I purchased a 1 pound tub of this based on that data
Brandy: one moment
you: is it possible that text was just copy/pasted from liquid?
Brandy: I believe so because if you look at our spec sheet click on technical documents then under Soldering click on fluxes then click on spec next to stacy clean paste flux
Brandy: I will contact the appropriate person to fix this information on our website
Brandy: The spec sheet is correct
you: Is there any way I can swap this 1 pound tub of paste for a 16oz bottle of liquid since I can't use it
Brandy: Please contact the supplier you purchased from and have them contact customer service ph# 800-733-4043
you: I guess I'm out of luck because I got it from an Ebay vendor
you: who also parrotted the wrong info
Brandy: Sorry but we appreciate you bringing this to our attention we shall fix the information on our website
you: what I'd expect is that you'd ask for proof of purchase and ask for my shipping address so you could send me the correct product
you: I will try this through the vendor but I'm not holding my breathe
Brandy: I apologize but we do not sell direct
Brandy: Would you like a supplier in your area?
you: no, thanks anyway
That plainly sucks and is so wrong in so many ways.
Right? Thanks for fixing our mistake and saving a bunch of misunderstanding in the future but GTFO.
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