Kitchen Friendly Keezer Build (GE 7.0 Model # FCM7SUWW)

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sazerac6

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Feb 27, 2012
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Location
Clinton
I did a bit of research on HBT when I was designing my keezer build. So here is my contribution back to the community.

There is no such thing as a basement in my house, so I had to improvise and get SWMBO on board. It was either the garage or the kitchen. Kitchen won because I pitched a kitchen-friendly design.

I have a 4 keg setup. The CO2 is inside on the hump. The kegs were tight to fit, but I found once it cooled off, I could get the 4 kegs in with less struggle. I would pay attention to the shanks and make sure that you don’t have too much extra hanging off inside. I have 5 1/8” and I found that it makes it hard to get the front kegs out.

I used a 2x8 collar, and that allows for a potential keg on the hump, but probably for only cold crashing or chilling. The QDs probably won’t allow the lid to close tightly.

I got a STC-1000 temp controller from ebay, and just hung the probe in the keezer. I was having trouble with temp control, so I added a thermowell. The sensor on the STC-1000 isn’t submersible (as far a I know). I took a gallon jug and filled it with water. Inserted a 12” pipe nipple and capped the end. Put the probe in the pipe and then you have a nice stable temp. (no pics of the thermowell are in the album, but will add them later)

I used oak veneer for the finishing touches. I glued it directly to the freezer with liquid nails. Problem was that the freezer isn’t square. So I had to use some duct tape to make sure that the liquid nails adhered properly. I stained and poly’ed the wood to match the existing cabinetry. I also put press tile on the cover that I put over the lid.

Well enough of the explanations……here is the link to the photos. Feel free to PM with any questions.
https://plus.google.com/photos/107210390586112786126/albums/5850008424433704417?authkey=CJGRy6_dv86fPg
 
The veneer looks great :mug:

I would probably also use a thermowell on an STC-1000 probe rather than immerse it. Must be some kind of thermoplastic but I don't know what.

No drip tray?
 
Haha, I actually have one, but it's only out when needed. I added this pic to the album. This is the drip tray I got http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com/curtis/dtp-20/p1456537.aspx

IMG_20130308_211103.jpg
 
Ok. That explains it. Was wondering how you dealt with that. Nice setup.

We don't have space inside so I have to go the garage to refill.
 
You guys are aware that the probe on the STC 1000 is made for aquariums, right?

Love the tap labels.
 
I would pay attention to the shanks and make sure that you don’t have too much extra hanging off inside. I have 5 1/8” and I found that it makes it hard to get the front kegs out.
++to this. I used 2x 5 1/8" shanks in my initial build and they really get in the way when you try to put 4 kegs in. I used a 4 1/8" when I added my third tap and it is a little easier to work around. With a 1x6 collar and a piece of 1" foam insulation plus a sheet of hardboard backing, there is exactly 1" of exposed shank left after you add the beer nut so I believe it is possible to go all the way down to 3 1/8" but that would be pretty tight.

At a maximum 4 1/8" shanks should be used. If you're ordering from Keg Connection, they'll be happy to swap the default shanks in their kit (5 1/8") to any size you want if you call them.
 
....I glued it directly to the freezer with liquid nails. Problem was that the freezer isn’t square. So I had to use some duct tape to make sure that the liquid nails adhered properly....

I forgot to mention that although the duct tape worked for the most part to allow the liquid nails to adhere, the veneer still pulled away where I didn't put the molding. So I cut a couple of strips of the extra veneer and nailed some them to pull it all together.

IMG_20130309_072418.jpg
 
I have still yet to figure out what to put over the compressor where the original vent was. Right now I just have it open. I may get a wooden vent cover and then stain it.
 
...I believe it is possible to go all the way down to 3 1/8" but that would be pretty tight.

I think you're correct here. I helped out in a keezer build last month with a very similar collar. I think that 3 1/8" were used.
 
Haha, I actually have one, but it's only out when needed. I added this pic to the album.
106269d1362795722-kitchen-friendly-keezer-build-ge-7-0-model-fcm7suww-img_20130308_211103.jpg

My dog would come running every time I poured a beer. Hoping to get a few licks out of the drip tray. :D

Its a very good idea you have - make it look as part of the house.
 
I swapped out a keg this morning and while I had it open, I snagged a pic of my thermowell. It's not the best looking, but it serves it's purpose. I drilled a hole through the cap for the gallon jug and then put the 12" nipple through that. Then plugged the top with a wad of Press and Seal wrap that I had in the kitchen.

IMG_20130310_131928.jpg
 
Do you notice a big difference in the number of times your compressor cycles on/off with the thermowell?
 
I sure do. I used to have the probe in a 50mL tube that was filled with salt. The compressor used to cycle ~every 2 hours and run for about 5-10 min. Once I put the thermowell in there, I'd say it cycles about 2 times a day and runs for about an hour each time.

I have the controller set at 4.4*C w/ 3*C differential. (~40*F to ~45*F)
 
That is an Awesome Keezer !!!! I hope you dont mind if I copy your build. I just bought that exact freezer off Craigs List.

How did you attach the trim around the edge of the lid? That really makes it nice looking....
 
I don't mind at all. Did you get a good price on the freezer?

The piece that goes on the lid is a separate piece that I framed off. It just rests on the collar part of the keezer. Hopefully you can make it out from these two pics.

IMG_20120805_144923.jpg


IMG_20120805_155921.jpg
 
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